Doog's "Silly" Helo Hetzer painting tutorial

the doog wrote:

dostacos wrote:  the doog wrote:  dostacos wrote: Doog, have you tried SCULPEY? it does not harden until it is baked and it does not run in warm weather. Dan {I have not, but I think I will give it a shot, you have a great techinque THANKS for passing it on}  You know, I have not, but I'm sure that any putty-type material might work; the only thing you have to watch is residue--I like SP because it doesn't seem to have any residue to speak of. I just applied some on my practice tank, I think it may not clean up well enough. will spray today and strip tomorrow.  Dan Cool! Make sure you post some pics here in this thread! It would help readers who are looking at this tutorial to see your alternate methods!

well it did work and it peeled off great {that was a surprise}the sculpey takes the paint and does not change it's properties. I will take pics tomorrow 

lexesbenz wrote:

How does one determine what colors to use for a fade??

Are you talking the basecoat? I usually just lighten it with white or spray something similar, but lighter.

lexesbenz wrote:

How does one determine what colors to use for a fade??

lexesbenz--a native New Yorker! Cool!

To answer your question, I just mix in white to whatever color I'm desiring to fade. You can try lightening with buff as well.

Does that answer your question?! I'm not so sure I understood what exactly you were trying to ask?

Really really good tutorial on a favorite subject Doog.  Painstakingly detailed, great photographs, and (what matters most) superior results.

Thanks a million.

Larry

lexesbenz wrote:

When your doing your oil dot trick? I was just wondering how you know what colors to use?

In terms of lighteneing the Dark yellow base coat, I've found that you can make a pretty good lightening wash by combining white/raw umber/yellow--this gives you a nice light tan; just go really lightly when adding yellow to the mix--the pigments are so fine and dense that just a prick of it is sufficient to tint the mixture.

To lighten an OD tank, yu can still use the "tan" mixture; it is the perfect simulator of a dusty finish. You could also add white and a smidge of yellow to Olive Green oil to add a tint to the OD base. EXPERIMENT!!! THAT"S THE KEY!!! (But these guidelines should be sufficient!)

Hey Doog - meant to ask you this a couple of weeks ago, but you weren't around.

While doing the camo on my LAV-25, I was using silly putty for the masking...when I pulled it off, it had discolored (considerably!) the base camo around all of the spots it was touching. Have you had this happen to you before?

I was using a fresh egg of putty, is there some sort of oil in it that might have caused this? I waited a day or two to see if it would "dry" but no luck.

Any ideas? 

Geez, dupes, I never had that problem, nor have heard of it before....what kind of paint were you using? I use acrylics--are you using enamels?

That's the only thing I could think of, like a paint-type compatibility issue. How long did you leave the silly putty on for?

I've used it quite a lot, and never had a problem such as this--I wonder if anyone else has? Guys? 

dupes wrote:

Hey Doog - meant to ask you this a couple of weeks ago, but you weren't around. While doing the camo on my LAV-25, I was using silly putty for the masking...when I pulled it off, it had discolored (considerably!) the base camo around all of the spots it was touching. Have you had this happen to you before? I was using a fresh egg of putty, is there some sort of oil in it that might have caused this? I waited a day or two to see if it would "dry" but no luck. Any ideas?

I should let Doog answer for himself but here we go. I use a modified version of the Doog method (will show some photos of my method in Modern Armor GB hopefully this week) but still use good old silly putty. I have never had a proplem with leaving a stain.

I use Tamiya or Vellajo paints and ALWAYS give them a minimum of 24 hours to cure before applying SP. I also do not leave the putty on long. I apply the putty, do my painting and remove putty.

Temperature could also be a problem. If it is too warm (putty becomes real mushy and stringy) some oils (plasticizers) may seep out.

Again, I have never had a problem. My method also keeps the putty on the model a minimum amount of time.

And now a word from the Doog!!!

Rounds Complete!!

Huh. Yeah, I use acrylics as well, Tamiya in this case (Nato Green). I'm usually pretty quick about getting the putty on/off, probably only 30 minutes or so between masking/painting/removal? Also wasn't particularly warm - the house is only 65 degrees this time of year.

I ended up making a superthin batch of NG (probably 90/10) and going back over the edges, for the most part it disappeared between that and the weathering. I can still tell where it was, but you know how that goes.

I'll poke around at home tonight, see if I took a picture of the build right after the putty came off. 

Just to chime in:

 I use Testors' MM enamels and have never had discoloring with Silly Putty. You can also find 'Dollar Store' knockoffs of Silly Putty when you can't locate the real deal and I've noticed some of them are thinner in consistency which may or may not suit your needs? And when it hasn't been over loaded with paint I've had SP last and be usaeable for about three years!

 Once in a pinch (couldn't find my SP late at night) I even used the 'modeling clay' that Alumilite includes in their home casting kits to make dams and molds- it does work but will sometimes discolor the base coat and it's sometimes hard to get it completely off around details like hinges although MicroSol will melt and wash it away- but not too much or it will do that to the enamel too. But that's a whole nuther 'weathering' trick! Oh, it's not just good for hard line edges- leave it in a 'rolled' shape and you'll get a feathered edge like when you 'back mask' (laying down the masking tape and then rolling the edge back over itself) by spraying straight down over the subejct. The spray will hit the 'bulged out' area and then overspray seeps lightly until it gets to where the bottom of the SP 'roll' meets the subject. Just in case you don't want to freehand soft edge camo or you have an overspray issue when doing so.

Great tutorial Doog and for anyone who's never used SP before you'll wonder how you got along without it before!

dupes wrote:

Huh. Yeah, I use acrylics as well, Tamiya in this case (Nato Green). I'm usually pretty quick about getting the putty on/off, probably only 30 minutes or so between masking/painting/removal? Also wasn't particularly warm - the house is only 65 degrees this time of year. I ended up making a superthin batch of NG (probably 90/10) and going back over the edges, for the most part it disappeared between that and the weathering. I can still tell where it was, but you know how that goes. I'll poke around at home tonight, see if I took a picture of the build right after the putty came off.

Oh yeah, it panned out pretty well in the end :

/forums/864552/ShowPost.aspx

I just had to take that extra step of overspraying, which I'm hoping to avoid in the future. 

dupes wrote:

Oh yeah, it panned out pretty well in the end : /forums/864552/ShowPost.aspx I just had to take that extra step of overspraying, which I'm hoping to avoid in the future.

 That's a neat-looking vehicle; quite different than the normal tank-type things I'm used to doing. It looks great--I like the splashed mud effects, and the paint looks perfect to me; I can'ttell you had any problem with it!

Good shhhhewww!  

Hahaaaa, thanks Doog!

Yeah, every now and then I like to try doing something a bit different...now I'm ready to get back to the "old standards".

I've used silly putty quite a few times without any problems but i have noticed that if you hold the model to the light you sometimes will see something like a splotchy or uneven shine to it for want of a better way to describe it but once you give it a coat of future or dullcote or even just an all over wash it evens it all out,,, very nice camo Dupes i must have missed this one i better go check it out.