Doog's "Silly" Helo Hetzer painting tutorial

Thanks for sharing. More very helpful info.By the way, the twins are beautiful. Did you name them? 

Karl,

Thanks for this tutorial! Great job!! 

Thanks, Doog. This makes sense to me now. Bookmarking... ...  now.

Steve 

Thanks Doog for the great tutorial, it will most certainly be very helpful. Had no idea silly putty would "run".

Dale 

Doog,

     What a great set of "Twins"! Thank you for the tutorial. I especially like the oil dot method as you have explained here. I think I might experiment with this today.

Lookin great as usual!

SST

Thanks so much guys! Glad you enjoyed this one as well!

Yeah, I feel like I could probably crank out enough Hetzers in a few weeks to make my own "Post-war salvage lot" at this stage! They're easy to build and I have to say that I was surprised at how quickly this build went together. I'll be shipping it out on Tuesday, and the figures should be done by the time I get home from Germany on the 30th of November. 

I'll post the date when they'll be available, and maybe Anders will even let me post a photo of the finished sculpts? Watch ths space! 

where was this tutorial all my life...??

fantastic, thanks, i already bookmarked it! 

Another excellent turorial, many thanks doog for going through the effort of providing "in action" shots to illustrate various techniques.

We do not seem to have an equivalent in Australia for Silly Putty, so the old standby of blue tac is the best choice for Aussies. Having seen some excellent footage of Leopard 2's in action, I am now keen to try a multicolour armour camoflage in 1:72 soon.

cheers

Mike 

Doogie,

Thanks for the tutorial!

steelrudi wrote:

You ruined the "Silly Putty"!  Thanks I can really use this.  Another fantastic job.  Great!

Mike, we have bluetack here in the US as well--I'm sure that this would be an alternative to SP if anyone didn't want to deal with the "running" SP issues, like in a Southern climate? 

Glad to see y'all enjoyed the toot! I'm wondering why the post didn't get a "star" from the moderator yet? Weird, how that goes?!

Another great tutorial my friend! 

I discovered Silly Putty earlier in the year, it makes for a great masking material!  I used it to lay out the camo patterns on my P-40E and man did it make the job easy.   

Doog

Great information. I regularly use the "silly putty" for my Nato patterns and it works great. Always keep a couple of "eggs" in the workbench drawer. My method is slightly different but everyone modifies an idea for what works for them.

All your pointers are right on. My only comment is on the dot method (which I intend to use on my current build), I would think you should look at the base color and pick dot colors which may somewhat blend well with the base. I would think blue would not go well over OD green or yellow on sand.

I have found that room temp (~70 degrees) works well for putting it on but... in order to prevent "stringing" as you remove it, it is better when it is colder. A quick blast in the freezer does the trick.

As far as the putty itself, I agree, it does not get ruined. I am still using my first egg. I'm sure it will reach a point where there is too much paint on the putty but it seems pretty robust in that nature.

It should also be noted that for those of us who don't quite have the airbush talents (big hands don't work well with small airbrush) to do camo free hand, this yeilds a great camo job and keeps you sane.    

Thanks Karl for all your efforts putting this on the site and the work it takes to photo, write and assemble this type of information.

Rounds Complete!!

redleg, actually the "blue" really DOES work on the Dark Yellow base--see, the key to doing the oil dot thing is to leave only the barest trace--almost imperceptible--on the paint, so that the oil wash is not really visible, but exists more as a mere suggestion; besides, "blue" works very well over green--and so you will get some bleed-out over both the colors. Look closely at the finished build-you don't actually see any "blue" per se, but I garauntee you that it provides a chromatic tinge that "ages" the overall impression.

'Red" would not be expected to look well over a green tank, but I have tried it over a green-painted hull to experiment, and it really does look fine! Besides, don't forget; all of these colors blend in with each other--tinting and mixing together--so what starts as "blue" does not necessarily finish as such! That's the magic of this method--it imparts almost "subliminal" layers of color variations that somehow seem to mimic real-world conditions and visual impressions. I don't know exactly why or how--but it works!

Glad ya enjoyed the rest of the toot! (and I finally got my "star"! LOL! )

Doog, have you tried SCULPEY? it does not harden until it is baked and it does not run in warm weather.

Dan {I have not, but I think I will give it a shot, you have a great techinque THANKS for passing it on} 

dostacos wrote:

Doog, have you tried SCULPEY? it does not harden until it is baked and it does not run in warm weather. Dan {I have not, but I think I will give it a shot, you have a great techinque THANKS for passing it on}

the doog wrote:

redleg, actually the "blue" really DOES work on the Dark Yellow base--see, the key to doing the oil dot thing is to leave only the barest trace--almost imperceptible--on the paint, so that the oil wash is not really visible, but exists more as a mere suggestion; besides, "blue" works very well over green--and so you will get some bleed-out over both the colors. Look closely at the finished build-you don't actually see any "blue" per se, but I garauntee you that it provides a chromatic tinge that "ages" the overall impression. 'Red" would not be expected to look well over a green tank, but I have tried it over a green-painted hull to experiment, and it really does look fine! Besides, don't forget; all of these colors blend in with each other--tinting and mixing together--so what starts as "blue" does not necessarily finish as such! That's the magic of this method--it imparts almost "subliminal" layers of color variations that somehow seem to mimic real-world conditions and visual impressions. I don't know exactly why or how--but it works! Glad ya enjoyed the rest of the toot! (and I finally got my "star"! LOL! )

Good thing christmas is coming. Hopefully soon there will be a sale at Michaels and I guess I'm looking for some Winston blue & red and a hint of yellow. Well...we will give it a try on the M4 tractor when I get to that point on it.

Thanks again and safe trip

Rounds Complete!!

redleg12 wrote:

the doog wrote: redleg, actually the "blue" really DOES work on the Dark Yellow base--see, the key to doing the oil dot thing is to leave only the barest trace--almost imperceptible--on the paint, so that the oil wash is not really visible, but exists more as a mere suggestion; besides, "blue" works very well over green--and so you will get some bleed-out over both the colors. Look closely at the finished build-you don't actually see any "blue" per se, but I garauntee you that it provides a chromatic tinge that "ages" the overall impression. 'Red" would not be expected to look well over a green tank, but I have tried it over a green-painted hull to experiment, and it really does look fine! Besides, don't forget; all of these colors blend in with each other--tinting and mixing together--so what starts as "blue" does not necessarily finish as such! That's the magic of this method--it imparts almost "subliminal" layers of color variations that somehow seem to mimic real-world conditions and visual impressions. I don't know exactly why or how--but it works! Glad ya enjoyed the rest of the toot! (and I finally got my "star"! LOL! ) Good thing christmas is coming. Hopefully soon there will be a sale at Michaels and I guess I'm looking for some Winston blue & red and a hint of yellow. Well...we will give it a try on the M4 tractor when I get to that point on it. Thanks again and safe trip Rounds Complete!!

Just be careful putting down the "Yellow"--for some reason the pigments are SO fine that a teensy-weentsy bit goes a LOOOOG way! Think "small" first with Yellow! 

the doog wrote:

dostacos wrote: Doog, have you tried SCULPEY? it does not harden until it is baked and it does not run in warm weather. Dan {I have not, but I think I will give it a shot, you have a great techinque THANKS for passing it on}  You know, I have not, but I'm sure that any putty-type material might work; the only thing you have to watch is residue--I like SP because it doesn't seem to have any residue to speak of.

 Dan

dostacos wrote:

the doog wrote:  dostacos wrote: Doog, have you tried SCULPEY? it does not harden until it is baked and it does not run in warm weather. Dan {I have not, but I think I will give it a shot, you have a great techinque THANKS for passing it on}  You know, I have not, but I'm sure that any putty-type material might work; the only thing you have to watch is residue--I like SP because it doesn't seem to have any residue to speak of. I just applied some on my practice tank, I think it may not clean up well enough. will spray today and strip tomorrow.  Dan

All I can say is......

THANK YOU!!!

And GREAT JOB!!!