SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

Dragon 1/35 Maus

14656 views
42 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: NC
Dragon 1/35 Maus
Posted by Will on Thursday, July 10, 2008 9:08 PM

Bought this at the LHS.

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Bridgeview, Illinois
Posted by mg.mikael on Thursday, July 10, 2008 9:15 PM

Sweet!Smile [:)]

Hope you do a WIP thread about your Maus!Big Smile [:D]

"A good plan executed now is better than a perfect plan next week." - George S. Patton

  Photobucket 

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: NC
Posted by Will on Thursday, July 10, 2008 9:24 PM
Trust me its sweet but not for the price and tommorow ill start the thread
  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Bridgeview, Illinois
Posted by mg.mikael on Thursday, July 10, 2008 9:37 PM

 Will wrote:
Trust me its sweet but not for the price and tommorow ill start the thread

How much did you pay??Question [?]

"A good plan executed now is better than a perfect plan next week." - George S. Patton

  Photobucket 

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: NC
Posted by Will on Thursday, July 10, 2008 10:07 PM
Im sorta new to armor but have built tamiya tanks. I payed 53 bucks
  • Member since
    May 2008
Posted by White Snake on Thursday, July 10, 2008 10:46 PM
Yikes!!!!   I am looking foward to following the build though.

On the Bench: MiniArt 1/35 U.S. Soldier Pushing Motorcycle

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Friday, July 11, 2008 1:46 AM

 Will wrote:
Im sorta new to armor but have built tamiya tanks. I payed 53 bucks

Whoa and that's an older kit too.

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Fort Knox
Posted by Rob Gronovius on Friday, July 11, 2008 5:47 AM
I bought one in 2002, around it's first reissue time. Ran in the 20 somethings back then. Real cool kit, but needs, well, maybe not "needs" but looks better with some of the aftermarket PE and resin inserts to fill the big grill areas.
  • Member since
    July 2008
Posted by George II on Friday, July 11, 2008 5:56 AM
Will, I remember a review of this kit.  There was something confusing about the assembly of the wheels.  Don't remember exactly what it was.  The reviewer even tried to contact Dragon to get an answer.  I will be curious if you run into the same prolem as you build the kit. 
  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: NC
Posted by Will on Friday, July 11, 2008 10:42 AM

It doesn't give you the color to paint them.

 

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Bridgeview, Illinois
Posted by mg.mikael on Friday, July 11, 2008 12:21 PM
You could always base your colors off the box, or off other people's past Maus builds.

"A good plan executed now is better than a perfect plan next week." - George S. Patton

  Photobucket 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Fort Knox
Posted by Rob Gronovius on Friday, July 11, 2008 1:30 PM
 Will wrote:

It doesn't give you the color to paint them.

 

Considering only one was completed and neither of them placed into front line service (I think one was attempted to be used to protect the factory), You can paint it in any scheme appropriate for German tanks at that time. It's all 'what if'.
  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: NC
Posted by Will on Friday, July 11, 2008 2:09 PM
What would be a good scheme and for the scheme on the box its main color is middlestone but I can't find that color anywhere.  So I'll be using a different scheme.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, July 11, 2008 2:53 PM

 Will wrote:
What would be a good scheme and for the scheme on the box its main color is middlestone but I can't find that color anywhere.  So I'll be using a different scheme.

It is the standard dark yellow w/ red-brown and green three toned scheme...I bought one of these when they first came out (1995?) when DML was just begining to rock the modeling world...I'd say that it holds up very well considering it is almost a 15 year old kit...I remember the welds and other detail was pretty good...I know you get a LOT of styrene in that box...but I would say that you probably spent a little much for it...

  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Syracuse, NY
Posted by lexesbenz on Friday, July 11, 2008 3:24 PM
Are there any aftermarkets tracks for this kit?
The flying hamster of doom rains coconuts on your pitiful city!!!!
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, July 11, 2008 4:02 PM
Not sure, but the tracks were indys in the box (on sprues) and appeared to be very accurate...
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, July 11, 2008 4:46 PM

 lexesbenz wrote:
Are there any aftermarkets tracks for this kit?

I've had this kit for years and not been able to find any AM tacks. Only AM stuff i could find was an Eduard PE set and a judio barrel for the 128mm.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Syracuse, NY
Posted by lexesbenz on Friday, July 11, 2008 5:03 PM
Eek, they just have the ejector pins marks that I can't stand.
The flying hamster of doom rains coconuts on your pitiful city!!!!
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Fort Knox
Posted by Rob Gronovius on Friday, July 11, 2008 7:35 PM
 Bish wrote:

 lexesbenz wrote:
Are there any aftermarkets tracks for this kit?

I've had this kit for years and not been able to find any AM tacks. Only AM stuff i could find was an Eduard PE set and a judio barrel for the 128mm.

There are a few aftermarket items for the kit. This thread shows some of the AM items, but no tracks (I think). The Verlinden resin set is a reissue of the older Cornerstone set.
http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=113267&page=1
  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: NC
Posted by Will on Friday, July 11, 2008 8:29 PM

Could some one tell me what color is middlestone.

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Friday, July 11, 2008 8:47 PM
Oddly enough, Dragon's painting instructions often suggest "middle stone" (an RAF camouflage colour) for the base colour of the camouflage. This should be dark yellow (eg. Tamiya XF-60).
  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Saturday, July 12, 2008 5:51 AM
 Will wrote:

Could some one tell me what color is middlestone.

Middlestone is a very good match for a faded or lightened Dark Yellow. Whatever you do, DO NOT paint this model with UN-lightened Dark Yellow. A vehicle this large in real life would look MUCH lighter than the stock Dark Yellow, due to scale distortion of light. You should take a small bottle of Tamiya Flat White, and add about 10-20% Dark Yellow into the White jar, and mix it up well; this will give you a pleasing and more accurate scale Dark Yellow base coat.

Yes, I know this tank wouldn't have really been in the field long, and may not have had the time to sun-bleach, but still, the large slab sides of the hull and turret would "grab" light and make the color appear much lighter. Paint the other two camo (green and red brown) colors straight from the bottle, and then do a light overspray of the same lightened DY base coat to fade them appropriately.

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Saturday, July 12, 2008 6:28 AM

Oddly enough, Gunze's Middle Stone (H71) appears (to me anyway) to be darker and browner than Tamiya's Dark Yellow. 

Gunze's own Dark Yellow (H403) is almost identical in shade to Middle Stone, and, I believe, was a later addition to the paint line and may not have been available when the kit first hit the market, hence the Middle Stone paint reference. Again, it's significantly darker than Tamiya's Dark Yellow and, as Karl suggests above, should be lightened.  

Karl - I find lightening Tamiya Dark Yellow with white can be a little stark - I have found a warmer effect mixing Dark Yellow about 1:1 with Deck Tan.  

  • Member since
    November 2007
  • From: Wisconsin Rapids, WI
Posted by moose421 on Saturday, July 12, 2008 8:28 AM

I have used the middlestone color on my last two builds.  Rammtiger, King Tiger 101st.  I have to hae found that it was way to dark.  What I have done is spray the other colors on and then lightly sprayed sandy yellow (79).  This has both lighten up the dark yellow, blended the colors and given the vehicle a faded look.

hope this helps a little.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, July 12, 2008 10:58 AM

Rob Thanks for that link, i have never heard of Atelier, might try to get hold of those parts. I have the eduard and judio sets he has there. But as for Verlinden, i have been put after useing the verlinden sets on my Tiger I. And i ain't having the engine decks open anyway.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Fort Knox
Posted by Rob Gronovius on Saturday, July 12, 2008 12:10 PM
The engine inserts were made by another company (Cornerstone) and Verlinden took over their molds. The parts go under the grills. The Maus grills are rather large and there is a noticeable emptiness in that area. You could probably just blank them off with styrene.
  • Member since
    September 2005
Posted by Kykeon on Saturday, July 12, 2008 3:14 PM

There are a few other issues with this kit. The gun mantlet has been simplified. It is missing several facets. These can be seen by comparing photos or even the box art to the kit part. I corrected the problem on mine by simply sanding the facets into the kit part, or you can replace the part with a AM resin replacement from Artisian Mori.

The front edge of the hull side has been faceted along the weld seam, this is not correct. It can be easily fixed with a piece of styrene stock.

The rotating periscope in front of the commander's hatch should be removed, filled and a weld bead added. This feature was present on the original drawings but not included on the finial vehicle.

The turret pistol ports are too large, in the wrong location and are lacking a plug.

There several other small details to be added as well.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, July 12, 2008 3:28 PM
Maybe i will give the Verlinden engine a look. I have been really put off of verlinden when doing the Tiger I engine compartment and i swore i would never get another resin detail set from them, even though i have a few in the stash. But it might be worth it to fill the engine compartment out.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: NC
Posted by Will on Saturday, July 12, 2008 3:33 PM
I'm going to do it as a what if and oob.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, July 12, 2008 3:40 PM

 Will wrote:
I'm going to do it as a what if and oob.

Thats the good thing with these kits, you can do what the hell you want. Even though two where built, they were hardly in full production, so who knows how it would have looked given a few months.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.