Revell 56 Ford F-100 Demon II-Completed! 04/15

Thanks T.B.

Oh :

 I know I am late with this . Did you consider heat build-up when you put the custom cover on the alternator ? There's  a" Fox Body " down the street . Same engine  ,darned near . Oh ! It's a real one . But can't tell the difference ! Youse is dun good , fella !

Thanks Greg. I appreciate the good word buddy! As far as seeing it in person...who knows?

This is one of those builds where using a few words to denote a job well done seems petty.

You really did a great job on this one, Joe. Attention to detail squared.

I'm hoping one day to see this one in person, who knows? I have a hunch those dark grey flames are completely different in person.

Nice work, Joe.

Thanks Jack. They are a fun kit to build. It almost puts itself together.

I was just looking at this kit at the HS shop on my lunch break wondering about the possibilities. This one is as good as it gets for sure!! The black paint and flames look really good. Very clean work!

Never replied to the great comments. Thanks fellas and yes.............the "Demon II" Willy's was a go.....

mustang1989

Another Pro Street theme using the same paint scheme...........I could see that.

 

I endorse this message!! 

That body style lends itself to tubs and flames, and with your skillset, I think you would smash it out of the park.

My

I vote for a '41 Willys W.I.P.! That would be about the only other car model I'd build. I could get some pointers and might even chase down the kit. Big talk here, I'm really way behind in several projects. OK, I'll at least start the chase for one!

Maxie

PS--seeing a supercharged '41 Willys on the back wheels in the day still raises the hair on my neck! Great sound too!

Absolutely stunning finish Joe. You have torched it on all aspects of the build. From detail to paint job, you have certainly demonstrated experten skills. It truly is a beauty my friend and I greatly appreciate you sharing it with all of us. now, bring on the next epic project.

stunning beautiful paint and those flames real special

Another Pro Street theme using the same paint scheme...........I could see that.

Thanks Steve, Mark and Bruce! I've been thinkin' about giving my "Street Demons" 41 Willys the same treatment. Maybe another Demon II project.......

Damn! Mustang, that is one sweet ride! Great job!

Hello Joe,

That is fantastic work.  Mean and beefy!  I really like the red truck too.  Outstanding workmanship and detail.  I especially appreciate the wire looms and spark plug wire routing.  On the surface, it may seem a small detail, but to me those little touches are what elevates a good model to a great model.  Ace work sir!  

Dang Joe, that is Awesome!

Thanks Max, Greg, John and Steve.

Greg: It did take a few passes before I got the photos right. I had to play around with the lighting (3 different lamps-one from each side and one directly overhead) and then edit the photos out to lighten it up a bit, and then of course....croping.

John: LOL! No holeshot diorama yet bud. I don't want to ruin the model by building sucky figures. Figures are NOT my strongpoint.

Dang Joe  Don’t worry 'bout photos. Those two look Awesome 

Great way to show a variation on a theme 

Bad ass!  How about a holeshot diorama?

Beautiful, just beautiful Joe.

It looks real. Black is a bear to photograph, not saying you did badly, you did grrrrrreat.....but I'll bet it looks even better in person.

Your attention to detail paid off, as we've come to expect, in your finished product.

Thank you for sharing the building of this one.

Excellent! That thing looks real! Good job for sure.

Max

Thanks fellas!!

A couple of years ago I decided to re-visit an old childhood fave of mine. I was drawn to the Street Demons series and even more drawn to the 56 Ford F-100 offering in that series. I ended up doing a total revamp of that kit when I did sit down to have a "second go" at that kit. Little did I remember just how awful that kit really was (or was it that it didn't really matter at such a young age----I just built it) but I did end up finding out that kit really had its challenges. After completing the revamp kit in 2015 I found out that I'd learned a valuable lesson in my adult modeling in regards to just how far I'm going to go with detailing a kit and more importantly how much money NOT to throw at a build. I detailed it to the point that I dread handling it every time I pick it up to take it to shows or if I have to do a photo shoot like you'll see below.
To flash forward to around August of last year, I'd been wanting to build another 56 for a while and then along came the Foose 56 F-100. Man............the body was totally tweaked and the appearance of this truck was so much sleeker than the original F-100's were. So with that I purchased a Revell Foose FD-100 kit. 

 

My imagination went into overdrive at the possibilities. I had Thomas over at Speedway Decals go to work on fabricating the slides I'd need to pull this, more refined Demon version, off.
I kept the power and drive train and made some modifications to the rear suspension to narrow the rear end and lower it even more while retaining all of the original four link suspension parts. I had to cut the bed and make fender wells for the much wider tires that were to go in the rear. I tried to detail the engine up as much as I could using all of the OOB parts for the engine. I didn't want to have to modify this and modify that to retain the original look of the Roush engine (which is one of the best engines I've built modeling wise-save for that stupid hole in the oil pan for the metal axle to pass throughfacepalm_zpsgaclnqrj.gif ) I turned to Weld Draglites once again for this this newer version. The front wheels are from a Revell Pro Stock Camaro kit and the rears are from Competition Resins with a coat of Molotow Chrome shot through an airbrush and cleared with Spaz Stix Ultimate Clear. After that a coat of Tamiya Smoke was airbrushed onto all wheels to tone down the "toy chrome" look.
Paint is Testors Semi Gloss Black as a base color with Testors "Wet Look" clear bringin' up the shine. Both were decanted and shot through an airbrush to get the smoothest results possible. Flame masks from Anarchy Models and Alclad II Polished Aluminum ensured a nice smooth flame job. The "Foose" lettering was removed from the tail gate and F-O-R-D lettering was applied in its place.
If I had any words of caution about this kit I would say that the interior tub needs to be installed BEFORE setting the cab down onto the truck frame and to make sure to test fit the hood AFTER installing the radiator core support brace. I test fitted it before installing it and it fit perfect ...........only to find out that it didn't afterwards. Some gentle sanding cleaned it up enough to fit in the end. Also............make SURE then engine is all the way down in the mount slots provided. I had to risk and "all or nothing" attempt at forcing it straight and luckily I got by with it. facepalm_zpsgaclnqrj.gif Overall I was very happy with this kit as it's a solid build that takes to handling well and it just felt like everything "clicked" together unlike a lot of the older kits that I tend to build...........especially with any mods.

With all that being said, here's the finishing shots:

 Once put along side the original "Demon I" (which the front plate on it reads Demon 3 in the series of 6-I didn't know two years ago that I'd be building another one) the differences are painfully obvious in the overall shape of the truck-particularly in the areas of the fenders , grille area and cab height). I took full advantage of these differences to make a more aggressive looking pro street truck this time around.

Side by side shot: (Sorry folks, the ol' 429 Boss truck just has to be in the lead )

Just checking in on the project. Yep, looking good!

Max

Hey Joe, that looks sweet! Awesome work there, Friend-O.

Thanks fellas. I can't tell you how much fun this one has been even with some of the issues this kit has.

Here to almost at the finish line. 

Glad to see you closing in on the finish. As is, it is a marvelous piece of workmanship. I'm excited to see this after all the finishing touches. 

Ok folks , after two hours of working on it this morning since 3 a.m. I've got this thing within putting distance. I've got everything done but the tail lights and rear bumper................and of course the final polish and finish up.

With that being said I figured, "What tha heck" and decided to post a couple of spoiler shots.

Thanks fellas! Still on this one and am in the final stages of assy. Will post photos of the finished product soon hopefully...............fingers crossed.

Hey Joe, looks like great progress.  The wheels look great and the truck looks slick as glass.  Nice work.  

mustang1989

Perfectly!! No troubles so far.

 

I'll be darned. Thanks, Joe.

Sweet! The Molotow chrome worked wonders. The wheels really do look outstanding. Also glad to see that the bed decal layed down so nicely. To me, that had iffy written all over it. Overall the truck is looking absolutely amazing. You are doing some terrific work.

mustang1989

Heya Steve, 

The wheels are resin from Competition Resins. The OOB wheels are 24” wheels so no chance of me using those!! Lol

 I used Molotow Chrome from a refill bottle. All I did was drop some in a paint cup (no thinner) and shoot it on and DONT touch or handle it. The idea is to let it cure out for 48 hours and then clear coat it. This months Scale Auto is DEFINITELY worth the time to read as it’s got several great “how-to” articles with one of them being about the usage of Molotow chrome. Clear coating with Spaz Stix’s Ultimate Clear is supposed to preserve the Molotow‘s chrome appearance while making the surface able to be handled by hand. 

 

Perfectly!! No troubles so far.

Hmmm....

So how'd it stick to the resin?

Ta for the info.

Heya Greg, I got the idea from Scale Auto. Pick this months magazine up. It says “4 Barrel” on the front of the cover in regards to 4 How-To Articles. 

This is my first time doing this and the wheels were bare resin parts that needed some clean up and drill out. Refills come in 30ml bottles. 

Whoa there son.....

Where did you come up with the idea to spray the Molotow refill? Have you done it before? Did you strip the wheels first?

I have the pens, I don't think I bought any refills.

Heya Steve, 

The wheels are resin from Competition Resins. The OOB wheels are 24” wheels so no chance of me using those!! Lol

 I used Molotow Chrome from a refill bottle. All I did was drop some in a paint cup (no thinner) and shoot it on and DONT touch or handle it. The idea is to let it cure out for 48 hours and then clear coat it. This months Scale Auto is DEFINITELY worth the time to read as it’s got several great “how-to” articles with one of them being about the usage of Molotow chrome. Clear coating with Spaz Stix’s Ultimate Clear is supposed to preserve the Molotow‘s chrome appearance while making the surface able to be handled by hand. 

Joe, those rims look awesome. Fill me in. Did you decant and AB? Any thinner used? Did you strip the chrome as it comes with the kit?

The decal looks good too!

Thanks fellas. lol

Ok folks. I shot the rear wheels with a coat of Molotow and I've gotta say that I'm impressed. I'll be letting this dry over the weekend as well so when I come back I'll shoot the clear coat of Spaz Stix on to seal them off.



The decal on the bed flooring turned out pretty dang good too and laid down nicely over the molded in detail.

Joe:  Thanks for the added info. on the Testers  

[mumble to self...now I have to go out and buy a damn Badger,                                 just cause he said...]

If I could add a bit here re: Future, it can be use to attach clear parts just give it plenty of drying time before you handle the part(s). It is good stuff as it self-levels, so the odds of a blob of "glue" is minimized, and if any cleanup is needed,  Windex makes it easy too.

mustang1989

Hey Steve,

 No I didn't thin it any. It's straight from the can so it's ready to shoot................with alot more control of course.

..............and I have used Future to adhere clear parts. I just messed up ROYALLY and thought clear nail polish would do the trick as well. BIG mistake and I should've known better.

 

And hey, nothing wrong with trying things. I have a history of boondoggles too! Lol. 

Hey Steve,

 No I didn't thin it any. It's straight from the can so it's ready to shoot................with alot more control of course.

..............and I have used Future to adhere clear parts. I just messed up ROYALLY and thought clear nail polish would do the trick as well. BIG mistake and I should've known better.

Say Joe--did you have to thin the clear for airbrushing? If so--what thinner did you use?  Taking notes sir. LOL.

Btw. Have you ever tried using Future to mount clears parts? I did that with my TBM-3 build and it worked awesome. Specifically, on the tiny nav light covers. I positioned them in place and let capillary action do its work.

Keep up the good work.

Steve: You just can't beat this stuff.

Thanks guys for the good comments.

Spectacular save. Looks fantastic.

Looks OUT-Standing  

It almost hurts my eyes

This is gorgeous work. That gloss is pretty amazing. I must make a note of this for when I build a car!

Thanks Nick and Steve.

Steve: That's the stuff!! Just decant it, let it air out in the paint jar for a few minutes and shoot it through a Badger 350 airbrush and it goes on smooth as silk.

Well there's a big set of thunderstorms moving into the area starting at around 10 p.m. and ending at 3 a.m. so I needed to act pretty quick tonight so I could apply my gloss coat after reapplying the flames this morning. I prepped everything this morning and made sure to clean my paint jar out today at work. So I told my sweet wife and son to give me 30 minutes tonight to accomplish all this. I had one minor hiccup with the Alclad in the paint but think I can overcome it.

N E wayz ..............I couldn't be happier with the outcome and the flames came out EXACTLY how I wanted them to this time. Bold up front and fading at the end of the flames.

Taaa Daaaa........

Glad to see you have regained control of your project. Sometimes knowing what to not to do is a important as knowing what to do.......er something like that.

That wet look is spectacular stuff. It isTestors One Coat?  Or???

I'm happy for you I would of done the same thing if it goes wrong in the brake fluid it goes!!! Nice chrome too

Daaayanng!! Looks like I fell behind heree. Thanks alot fellas!

Well..............now for the rough part..............but there's a good ending.

Back on the mend after a complete disaster. I just simply couldn't believe what had happened as I was applying the gloss coat on this. One one hand it was the picture perfect finish with maybe a touch up of wet sanding and polishing here and there.................on the other............a mess!!! Somehow the Alclad had managed to get ALL OVER the cab and hood. The only thing I can think of is that during the fading process where I tried to polish the Alclad in which to achieve a subtle effect (which was turning out great BTW) I managed to get it all over the place but couldn't see it. If you look closely you'll see it:

 I didn't see this earlier but this "Wet Look" gloss is definitely the bomb. Notice the reflection writing on the light bulb on the hood. And this is with NO polish.

So..........I was pondering..........  . My initial thought was to dunk it in brake fluid to strip the paint and start completely over. But the paint layers are thin enough to where I could shoot another thin layer of black on and start over......................so....................I did!! Man did the finish ever turn out so much better than the first go round.

Here we are back at square one with an even smoother base coat............stay tuned.................flames coming back up!

Another foul up and a recovery to add to the mix. I was working with the grille and headlamps and decided to use some clear nail polish to adhere the headlight lenses to the buckets. If you've ever given this any thought..................PASS!!!! It quickly deteriorated/ stripped the chrome underneath!!
Kit #3 had to be acquired to fix this. I started over and this time used some Tamiya acrylic clear to adhere them. I'll call this a "save".

The disaster piece is on the bottom. Live and learn I guess:

Wow! Your flames came out spectacular. The fact that they came out so clean is a testament to the quality of the masks and your skill at painting on them. And, as usual, the wet look is awesome.

Joe  Glad to catch back up with this highly spectacular build.

Really looks like you have taken it “downtown” .

Congratulations. 

_{Oh, and don't forget to check the fluid levels befor your first outing- we worry, ya know.}

This is something else it's going to be special !

Can I borrow the keys and take that beauty for a ride?

Jim  

Really like those grey flames. Grey, who woulda thought.

Tell me about the wet look paint. Is it the Testors stuff in a spray can?

Mustang, I don't know how I missed this thread. This is looking seriously awesome! I love it. You are now subscribed so that I don't miss an update.

Thanks Max.

Well.......this is supposed to be the idea here. I don't like the wheels and tires on this one much but the flames are what I'm centering on. Just a tad bit toned down so it doesn't overpower the rest of the paint work.

Hey, flames are supposed to be bold! Those are

awesome. That gloss looks to be super slick for sure... 

Max

I masked off and painted the flames this morning. I personally think they are a tad bit too bold but...................I think they'll tone down with a clear coat some. Just gotta wait a day or so before I do clear the cab and hood.

After a couple of mist coats and let the part being painted sit for a minute or so I go for the wet coats. This photo is after about 15 minutes in the drying booth. The "Wet Look" is one of the best gloss coats I've worked with. Man I love this stuff!!!!

It doesn't take a brain surgeon to see what the reflection in the paint is. Won't see the clear coated parts again for another 3-5 days till they gas out.

Thank you for dropping in and for the encouraging comments guys. Will be wrapping this one up hopefully within the coming few weeks.

Wow! Everything is coming along nicely. It all looks sensational so far Bro.

Looking good, Joe.

crown r n7

Looking good what color this time?

 

Black:

Looking good what color this time?

Thanks Mark! Glad you dropped by.

Really great progress Joe.  I appreciate all the fab work.  Really setting everything off. 

Thanks Max!

You know there's really not just a whole lot more left to this kit now but the body, glass and chrome trim. I assembled and installed the front wheels and tires this morning. I had to enlarge the inside diameter of both tires to accept the wheels but other than that and having to sand another set of wheels down to rob the center caps to use on these it wasn't all that bad of a construction for them.

I primed the cab, hood and separate roof panel this morning. Here's about where the stance is gonna be. Nice and low..............



I also fabricated an A/C line with a blue A/N fitting this morning to install on the A/C dryer. I just couldn't go with that little 3mm section of line hanging out of the dryer. 

Just keeping an eye on you! The project is looking good. Love those keys on the seat!

Maxie

Thanks Joe and John.

Well guys since I couldn't use the wheels that I wanted I decided to use my favorites which are the Weld Draglites. The only problem with those are that 99.9999% of the rear wheels that I've seen whether they are resin or kit supplied have the bead locks on the wheel.......................which I do NOT want for a streetable vehicle.

Here's where we start. A set of resin Draglites from Competition Resins:

After some research I found what I want to coat the wheels with. This months issue of Scale Auto has a whole 5 page article devoted to the different methods of chrome coating and clearing. After reading through it I'll be going with the Molotow chrome with Spaz Stix Ultimate Clear both of which I ordered last night. Here's after removing the bead locks and drilling out all the wheel holes, center hole and the unused lug stud holes and cleaning it up a bit as compared to the untouched one on the right.

I found a block of time last night to work on the interior so I could finish it up this morning:

Coming along really nice!  Interior is stunning and the motor - well, I would put on an engine stand and call it done

That interior looks absolutely amazing Joe. I have to agree that that little touch with the clear definitely enhances the carpet. Good call there. 

Gonna have to do something about that radio. I aint likin' THAT at all. Dang macro shots!!!!

Something about the "carpet" and the way I did it just did NOT agree with me. I textured the flooring by spraying some Rustoleum Textured paint from a spray can and then coated the textured paint with a coat of flat black. The more I looked at it the more I caught myself thinking that if I had flocked the flooring in black it would've had a slight semi gloss and some depth to it. The way I had it painted there was neither quality there. Just ..................................flat bland black was it. So I thought a minute......   and decided to apply some Tamiya Clear in a light coating. The results turned out better to me.



To recap. Before:



and after. Just a tad bit more depth and more correct finish IMO:



I've also got the dash finished. I really don't consider this to be one of the better dashes I've done for two reasons. 1.) I think I could've done better and 2.) when I was done with this dash I had and still have the feeling of .......................that's it????!!!!  

Any ways here's the dash:

Thanks Nick!!

Just for kicks I added a Hot Rod Magazine and tossed a set of PE keys attached to a scratchbuilt key ring in the seat. I also added a set of PE foot pedals and gave 'em a quick wash to spice things up in the interior a bit.

beautiful interior and yes some of the Revell kits tell you to install the interior on the chassis. its a good way to pop out the windshield.  but roll the dice and there is always plan B.

Got some more done on the interior. I'm going to flock the floor with black carpet and install a PE accelerator and brake pedal yet and maybe throw a couple of items in the front seat. The dash panel I just test fitted into place and still have to do a lot of detail painting and apply a good gloss coat over the dash pad. I did away with the Foose decal on the medallion in the center of the seat and chromed it. I put an "embroidered" demon decal just under the medallion for a little interior snazz. These seat and interior decals were a little tricky to me and it seems like I may have needed a little stronger setting solution for them besides Microsol. I'm thinking something like Solvaset would have done a better job of settling them into the crevices but they didn't turn out too awful bad with around 8-10 coats of Microsol.

All in all the interior packs into a neat little "tub" and fits very snuggly into the cab..................which I'll cover in a little more detail below.



I was reading in the latest issue of Scale Auto that I received in the mail a few days ago and saw an article pertaining to this kit and it stated that the cab was some difficulty encountered when installing the cab over the interior during assembly. This was due to instructions calling out that the interior tub was to be installed on the chassis first.......? A bit unorthodox I thought ..............and so did the writer/ builder of the article/ model.



I always buy two kits when I modify any given build. Having that second kit has saved my bacon several times in the past and.................it's done it once again. Being the overzealous and sometimes impatient modeler that I sometimes am , I  seem to skip the VERY basics.............the test fitting process. But then again I didn't have the Scale Auto article ahead of time. One of the trouble areas are the ledges at the bottom of both interior side panels on the lower outside edges of the interior bucket shown here as a big "step" along the bottom edges of the side walls.



You can see the potential for a troubling fit here in the photo below. Imagine trying to cram the interior tub into a nicely painted cab.



What I did was sand these steps down in combination with sanding the bottom inside edge of the doors on both sides to reduce the interference fit so I wouldn't have to fight it while installing the interior into place. So I'll be installing the cab into the interior first before installing the cab onto the chassis. I still have to test fit the windshield to ensure proper fit at the front of the tub to windshield area in the cab so I'll be working on that today/ tomorrow. N E wayz .................here's the results after an easy/ trouble free install.



This kit has a few controversial pitfalls but so far I've been able to overcome all of them. We'll see what the rest of the build has in store.

JOE RIX

Man! That is an impressive set of decals for the interior. Appears that will test your patience a bit. All in all though, that should make for a sharp looking interior. 

 

Man! That is an impressive set of decals for the interior. Appears that will test your patience a bit. All in all though, that should make for a sharp looking interior. 

Thanks for the votes of confidence fellas. Will be back on this one tomorrow morning 

Oh ! 

  Das alright , You kin handle it ! I know you can . After that engine  , who couldn't  ?

Nice I would definitely use them!!! Seal them then a light wash oh boy

I appreciate that Greg. Hopefully this thing keeps going this smoothly. lol

That engine is amazing, Joe.

Tanker - Builder

Okay Now !

     Nuff already ! am I gonna Build  .You are making me get excited .Dats not good fer an old man , Right , B.S. It ain't . Now I got the fire back .What the H&^% !! Guess I'll have to build the Foose Caddy !

 I tink I'll go with a Roush in da House too . 

 

Okay Now !

     Nuff already ! am I gonna Build  .You are making me get excited .Dats not good fer an old man , Right , B.S. It ain't . Now I got the fire back .What the H&^% !! Guess I'll have to build the Foose Caddy !

 I tink I'll go with a Roush in da House too . 

Hodakamax

Now that I'm building that silly car, You've got me checking daily on your project which looks to be a fun one! Good work going on there! 

Max

 

Now that I'm building that silly car, You've got me checking daily on your project which looks to be a fun one! Good work going on there! 

Max

Here's the basic interior with all the parts cleaned up. Not a bad layout really but I'll be adding a few things here and there to spice it up a little bit.

Thanks Joe.

Finished the engine this morning with the radiator hoses. Right now I'm test fitting just to make sure that the body'll lay down properly on the frame and that the wheels are going to clear everything in their installed positions. So far..........I'm good with this:

Your 651 is entirely marvelous Joe. I am hugely impressed with how the painting of the molded on fan came out. You did a superb job there. Outstanding work my friend.

Thanks Joe and Mark.

Mark it's a 451 Ford FE engine.

Got some more progress done with the addition of the throttle linkage (still need to add the linkage from the foot pedal up to the motor) and the completion of the radiator and fans. You know that was a really crappy design with the radiator. The fans are MOLDED into the radiator which made the masking off a real PIA!! But I managed to finagle a decent mask for it and paint it all up.

Additionally I'm kind of bummed out about the wheels. I can't use them on this build because the brake calipers are too big for them and that stupid ring at the center of the front spindles would show through on them.   I'll be going with the Weld Draglites that I was originally going to use which is a good lookin' wheel and all but I was really looking forward to using the other ones. No worries................you'll see those again in the future on another build.

Todays progress:

Hello Nick.  Engine looks real good.  What is the displacement?  

Your engine is definitely taking on some aspects of stupendous. That distributor really is sweet. Makes for some excellent detail.

Thanks Nick and mississipp!

I'm' not quite sure you torqued the bolts correctly , yeah, it's that good!

Beautiful motor looks good enough to start!

Thanks fellas. I appreciate the good word.

I've made some more progress this morning that I felt like was worth an update. I do like these Macro photos for the simple fact that I can see some errors that I'll have to correct but other than those tiny corrections I'm happy with the outcome so far. Still got the exhaust and some other details to add. I really like this aluminum distributor kit from True Details. It's even got the PE distributor cap metal fasteners included in it.

Nice work Joe.  Looks beastly.  Following this one for sure. 

Me too, just found this thread.

Looking good, Joe. Cool aluminum wheels. I want some, don't even have anything to put them on. 

Looking awsome Joe! Makes me want to put aside the current builds and start a street rod. Think maybe I'll start one for the next PennCon inSeptember. Should have a couple  done for Mosquitocon in April. Looking forward to seeing your finished beauty. 

Jim   

Wow! This is a cool project I just stumbled on! Keep up the good work!

Max

I'm excited to see you are getting back after this one Joe. I have to agree that this beaut is need of your detailing prowess. You have certainly done a lion's share so far that is already impressive.

Im glad to see you back in the saddle!!

An update for the week. I've got the radiator and the distributor mostly completed as well but will show those in future updates.

I've got my work cut out for me with this engine. Such a nice platform and it screams for added detail on top of what's already there.

In planning ahead for my next continuation build I just got some wheels in that I ordered a few days ago. I think I'll give these a whirl. And yes these are aluminum and no don't ask how much they cost.

15 x 3's for the front:



and the 15x 10's for the rear:

DUSTER

OOOOK sounds good

 

OOOOK sounds good

Just so you guys and gals know.....................after the garage diorama I'll be back on this one.

It all be lookin' good so far. Fine job on patching the oil pan.

Hey !

 Is that gonna fit in there ? If so it's gonna be one B.A. Pickumup !

I've started on the engine build up for this truck and have to say that it's a fairly complete engine with lotsa detail. The only thing I didn't like about it was that stoopid hole in the oil pan for the metal axle to go through. Such a good kit so far too!!! I can't imagine why Revell thought that this was a good idea. Oh well, I filled the holes in and moved on.......................

Progress so far:

Oh the garage is the work in progress over time. The Demon II has the priority right now because of the time limitations of the contest. No worries......I work on it every day.

mustang1989

Thanks Joe, Hunter and Tanker Builder.

Hunter: Man whadda score!! I've seen the 68 Firebird built up as a very nice build. The Foose truck, well you know where I stand with that!! That Chevelle is packed with goodies. A big block that's got a very nice tunnel ram set up. The carburetors suck but you can get some nice and crisp replacment Holleys from the aftermarket world. The rear suspension is tops and has got some killer rear tires complete with the white lettering already on 'em. Just can't beat it for either a donor kit or a stand alone build.

 

Thanks Joe, Hunter and Tanker Builder.

Hunter: Man whadda score!! I've seen the 68 Firebird built up as a very nice build. The Foose truck, well you know where I stand with that!! That Chevelle is packed with goodies. A big block that's got a very nice tunnel ram set up. The carburetors suck but you can get some nice and crisp replacment Holleys from the aftermarket world. The rear suspension is tops and has got some killer rear tires complete with the white lettering already on 'em. Just can't beat it for either a donor kit or a stand alone build.

Aw , Mustang 1989 ;

 You blew away the most iconic question in todays lexicon . Well some time back anyway .Looking at your truck from the back , no one can dare ask " Where's The Beef " cause you can clearly see where it is . Darned nice work so far . T.B.

Ok sir, she is really starting to look like one bad mother already. I can only image how the rest of this build will turn out. Wonderful work so far buddy!!

As stated, I picked up the same truck at Hobby Lobby for $17.20 (40%of cou-pin)LOL and got the other two at a yard sale for $6.00. The old boy saleing them stated his wife was making him clean out his stash, and they MUST go. Felt sorry for the gentleman.

Oh yeah. You got it going on now Brudder. Total Bad A look to it already.

Yezzir!!!!

back on the saddle !

Thanks Steve, Hunter and Joe!

Rear suspension completed. I had to shorten the shocks a lot to match up with the differential reposition up into the chassis as well as relocate the links on the inside of the frame instead of the outside.



This kit is the perfect platform for a Pro Street kind of look. Just look at all the beef from the rear of the truck.



A frontal oncoming view:



and the going away view: I'm VERY happy with the outcome so far.

Alright Joe, I'm all tuned in for this episode of " Joe turns out another awesome Ford truck". Looks to be one boss of a build. I'm especially looking forward to seeing how your paint job turns out. 

Joe,

I am not surprised on the progress you have already made. I really enjoy your WiP's for the sure fact of all the mod's you make on each one. I keep learning something new every time you build a kit. Can't wait for the next installment!

R.I.P. AMT Nova Kit LOL

Waa-Hoo let-er-rip- tortilla chip      

 I was at home for two days last week sick. While I wasn't feeling good I thought I would do something that made me feel better, mood wise anyhow.

I started by tackling pretty much the only modification that I'll be undertaking with this project which'll be mini tubbing out back for the larger meats that I'll be throwing under the back and narrowing the rear end. I robbed the tubs from the AMT 65 Nova kit which is now my "go-to" for all Pro Street projects it seems.

I made the necessary cuts in the bed floor and the bed sidewalls. The cuts are a little dicey but they'll be hidden on the topside by a tub and on the bottom by a giant ass tire.



and then made the necessary cuts to the Nova chassis and cut the width of the tubs down to size as well as trim/ clean all the edges of the tubs up.



Here we are test fitted and ready to go. This is about a weeks worth of work normally that I've now got out of the way.



Rear end is narrowed and set further upwards into the chassis in the name of lowering it even more. Had to make a number of mods to get the tire to fit in the fenderwell but I got it done. Here's the way it's going to sit in there:





I've got an order in now for a Texas license plate that reads "DEMON II" and a decal for the rear window and front bumper that'll be clear except for the graphics and will look like so. Sorry Dodge fans.....it was just too dang appropriate!

Hunter

Hey Joe,

I just picked this kit up last week at Hobby Lobby. I will definitely be here the entire build to see the amazing job you do with her. I have no doubt this will be another one of your well detailed and built projects. Enjoy, and I can't wait too see what you do.

 

DUSTER

It's like that  "days of voo" cause, I swear  I've seen this  build some where before 

 

Hey Joe,

I just picked this kit up last week at Hobby Lobby. I will definitely be here the entire build to see the amazing job you do with her. I have no doubt this will be another one of your well detailed and built projects. Enjoy, and I can't wait too see what you do.

It's like that  "days of voo" cause, I swear  I've seen this  build some where before 

crown r n7

Doin some plastic surgery . 

 

Doin some plastic surgery .