Clear coats

I haven't used 2K clear yet, but I have been using MRP 2K black for Alclad undercoating when I have a fairly large, flat surface that more easily shows imperfections in the undercoating.  Smaller and/or irregularly-shaped parts just get standard gloss black lacquer.  The 2K stuff works great, and the level of gloss is so far beyond everything else that its hard to describe it.  Just be aware that some 2K paints have a REALLY LONG curing time, regardless of what the manufacturer of the paint may claim, so do a test shot with some mixed paint and catalyst on something you won't mind ruining.  I think MRP claimed 6 hours to being tack free, and my spoon test showed that was nowhere near accurate.  It was still very much wet, not even just tacky yet, after 6 hours.  After 3 days, it was hard and tack free, but could still be dented with a fingernail.  7 days turned out to be the magic number.  Its hard as glass in 7 days, and putting Alclad over it looks really impressive.

I'm definitely with you on using Future.  It makes a good adhesive for small, flat PE parts and small clear parts, but that's about it.  To keep the stuff from cracking and yellowing over time, you have to put a clear lacquer over the top of it, so it leaves me wondering "What's the point of putting Future on it?".  

Hey Brandon-- I love the input you gave and I have heard 2K is the bomb. It seems to be what people are migrating to. One thing for sure-- it seems to provide a rock solid finish.

I would love to hear how it goes for you once when you have tried it.

Thanks again..

I hate Future and the only reason I can see why folks use it is that it is cheap. I personally hate trying to get it to look how I want so I quit using it altogether. I know some folks think it's the bee's knees, but not for me. 

For auto finishes I'm assuming most of the time we want that base coat clear coat look rather than the single stage look of older paint work. I prefer the former, but each has its place. For me, I would rather clear and polish and get a glass smooth look than speed up the process and not get the results I have in my mind.

I used to use and still do somewhat a rattle can clear Krylon that works very well. I just had a reaction to MM Enamal (acrylic seems to be fine) on my last paint so I am stripping that and will attempt to use 2K clear for the first time over MM Enamel. Others have said they had no issues. I will still have to cut and buff, but I expect that on auto finishes. It's just part of the process of building cars.

I find that anytime I attempt to shortcut a process I usually end up with twice the work, so anymore I just take the time to cut and buff.

BK