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Clear coats

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  • Member since
    November 2021
  • From: Southern Indiana
Posted by Olezippi on Thursday, January 27, 2022 5:24 PM

MM clear coat.  What brand is that?

"If you can't fix it with duct tape then it's and electrical problem"

  • Member since
    November 2021
  • From: Southern Indiana
Posted by Olezippi on Monday, January 24, 2022 6:25 PM

That 2K clear coat looks really nice and deep Brandon.

"If you can't fix it with duct tape then it's and electrical problem"

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, January 23, 2022 7:05 PM

BrandonK

I ran it through my .5 needle AB at 20 PSI. Two light coats and waited for the it to flash, a min or two, then two heavy coats to give it that deep look. It will go an really heavy and not run. I was surprised how much I applied without any errors. It's worth doing, IMPO.

BK

 

That sounds really good, Brandon. I am taking notes... Thanks again for sharing the info. It helps shed light on the stuff.

  • Member since
    June 2014
Posted by BrandonK on Sunday, January 23, 2022 4:19 PM

I ran it through my .5 needle AB at 20 PSI. Two light coats and waited for the it to flash, a min or two, then two heavy coats to give it that deep look. It will go an really heavy and not run. I was surprised how much I applied without any errors. It's worth doing, IMPO.

BK

On the bench:

Tamiya 1/35 M4A3E8 "Fury" with crew,

1/32 Kittyhawk Kingfisher,

1/35 Meng Panther Ausf A Early,

1/48 Pro Modeller P-51C "Boise Bee"

2022 Completed:

1/25 Revell 29 Highboy

1/48 Tamiya Sea Harrier

1/25 Revell 70 Boss 429 Mustang

1/48 Hasegawa D3A1 Type 99 Val

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, January 23, 2022 3:20 PM

Hey Brandon, yeah, that really shows it's potential. It has fantastic shine and reflectivity, it is amazing. Like melted glass!

How well did it spray through your AB? Any issues?

Thanks for posting this, so cool....

  • Member since
    June 2014
Posted by BrandonK on Sunday, January 23, 2022 11:03 AM

Bakster
Brandon, can you post a picture?

Here is some shots. I painted this with MM enamel with NO sanding or cleanup. Then the 2K, again, no cut and buff. This is both paint and clear straight from the AB and cured. It is so clear and reflective you can see my studio lights clearly in the paint. If I had spent some time smoothing out the MM it would be incredible, but the clear is perfect. I just wanted to see just how much it would hide, and I can say 95% of the paint flaws dissappeared when 2K was applied.

I use a food dehydrator to speed up drying time. It cuts the cure time by over 75%.

The brand I chose was the cheapest I could locate on Amazon. It was $85, but that's a gallon of clear and the seperate hardener to go with it. I will NEVER have to buy clear again for cars. So the cost is cheap in the long run. The brand is SpeedOKote.

BK

FYI, the fender is just the test shot. I is from a different kit and won't be used.

 

On the bench:

Tamiya 1/35 M4A3E8 "Fury" with crew,

1/32 Kittyhawk Kingfisher,

1/35 Meng Panther Ausf A Early,

1/48 Pro Modeller P-51C "Boise Bee"

2022 Completed:

1/25 Revell 29 Highboy

1/48 Tamiya Sea Harrier

1/25 Revell 70 Boss 429 Mustang

1/48 Hasegawa D3A1 Type 99 Val

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Saturday, January 22, 2022 6:37 PM
Bakster
You have not steered me wrong yet, my friend. I will order some and try it. Thanks for your thoughts and your process with it. I will report back once I receive and test it! 
No problem, Bakster.  Looking forward to seeing what you think of it.
BrandonK
I just used 2K clear for the first time. Nasty stuff, but I took all the precautions.
Amazing clear coat, simply nothing will compare. It's hands down the best clear I have ever seen. 
BK
Who's 2K clear did you end up trying out, BK?

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Saturday, January 22, 2022 6:05 PM

BrandonK

I just used 2K clear for the first time. Nasty stuff, but I took all the precautions.

Amazing clear coat, simply nothing will compare. It's hands down the best clear I have ever seen. 

BK

 

Brandon, can you post a picture? Would love to see it!  Congrats...

  • Member since
    June 2014
Posted by BrandonK on Saturday, January 22, 2022 4:31 PM

I just used 2K clear for the first time. Nasty stuff, but I took all the precautions.

Amazing clear coat, simply nothing will compare. It's hands down the best clear I have ever seen. 

BK

On the bench:

Tamiya 1/35 M4A3E8 "Fury" with crew,

1/32 Kittyhawk Kingfisher,

1/35 Meng Panther Ausf A Early,

1/48 Pro Modeller P-51C "Boise Bee"

2022 Completed:

1/25 Revell 29 Highboy

1/48 Tamiya Sea Harrier

1/25 Revell 70 Boss 429 Mustang

1/48 Hasegawa D3A1 Type 99 Val

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Saturday, January 22, 2022 2:02 PM

Eaglecash867

Your experiences with Future pretty much match my own, Bakster.  I just couldn't get the stuff to work right, and then there were all of the issues that come up later.  I tried the Gauzy after seeing PlasticJunkie use it with his F-84, so the credit for the introduction of that stuff to our group definitely goes to him.  

When I shoot mine, I go straight from the bottle into my airbrush (a Paasche H, which I usually use a #1 needle and cap on).  I have mostly been using it after decaling and weathering because it does a great job of making decal edges a lot less prominent.  I guess when it dries it forms kind of a fillet between the edge of the decal and the surface its on, so it looks really nice after the subsequent flat or semi-gloss clearcoat goes on for my aircraft models.  For cleanup afterward, I use Windex.

 

You have not steered me wrong yet, my friend. I will order some and try it. Thanks for your thoughts and your process with it. I will report back once I receive and test it! Yes

 

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Saturday, January 22, 2022 1:42 PM

Your experiences with Future pretty much match my own, Bakster.  I just couldn't get the stuff to work right, and then there were all of the issues that come up later.  I tried the Gauzy after seeing PlasticJunkie use it with his F-84, so the credit for the introduction of that stuff to our group definitely goes to him.  

When I shoot mine, I go straight from the bottle into my airbrush (a Paasche H, which I usually use a #1 needle and cap on).  I have mostly been using it after decaling and weathering because it does a great job of making decal edges a lot less prominent.  I guess when it dries it forms kind of a fillet between the edge of the decal and the surface its on, so it looks really nice after the subsequent flat or semi-gloss clearcoat goes on for my aircraft models.  For cleanup afterward, I use Windex.

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Saturday, January 22, 2022 1:20 PM

So, I just tried again using IPA, 50/50.  No globules. Tried mist coats followed by heavy wet coats. It looked good while when wet but as it cured the underlying layers came through showing a pebbly finish, which I believe, are from the mist coats. I made sure the paint layer was smooth. Maybe I am expecting too much, not sure, but Pledge/Future is proving not to be what I am looking for. Unless the apeals court comes through with new evidence, Future, is hereby sentenced to non-use. 

So maybe I will get and try Eaglecashes AK Gauzy recommendation, but I am quickly nearing the point of no joy status on acrylic clears. I have now tried a number of them and I have yet to find one that delivers for me.

Might be stuck using the more caustic solutions of Lacquer or other.

Just an FYI and closing the loop.

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Saturday, January 22, 2022 11:07 AM

Seeing a new post about Future and problems with, it urged me to update since my last post.

As I had noted, I had better success when I use the IPA method. A subsequent test produced the still better results, but it was not perfect. I still get the occasional globule that ruins it. To be fair, I might have needed to add more IPA. I had better luck on the first go. More testing is needed, I guess.

I found a few references where people use Windex as a thinner. Thinking, what the heck, I tried it. That actually worked very well. It sprayed well, and no globules. But... several days later I checked the test pieces and one of the spoons had a cracked eggshell look. On that piece, I really loaded it on heavy. I am sort of not surprised that there was a reaction because the Windex would have surely worked on the underlying paint. I kind of expected it because of how heavy and wet I applied it. I thought it a good experiment to see what happens. The base paint is enamel. On the other spoon, no cracking just yet.

That is where I am at. The jury is still out considering why the glove doesn't fit. And if the glove doesn't fit, you must QUIT. Indifferent I am still mystified by people that say they don't thin it. It is impossible for me to get a clean application without thinning. It is a mystery to me. Could it be the brand of airbrush? I have tried using two Badgers, both .5 needle.

I also ordered and tried Mission Models clear gloss. Foolish me, I listened to a guy rave about it on YouTube. On the video and from a distance his model sort of looked cloudy to me, but I thought, hey, it must be good the way he is talking. I get it, I try it, I hate it. Total flop. It produced a terrible finish, and it was a milky semigloss at best. Terrible. And I used their recommended thinner as well. 

And that is where I am at as of today. 

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Friday, January 14, 2022 9:36 AM

Bakster

 

 
keavdog
I'm a Future fan.

 

Hey John-- it is good to hear a success story.  As of yesterday, I was ready to punt on this. I did more experimenting with it and I just can't seem to spray a blemish free coat, not even close. Either I get orange peel, or if I spray heavy, I get sags. But worse than the sags, I see some splattering.

What I didn't think to try was cutting it with IPA. I tried that years ago with a dismal outcome. At the time that I tried it, the Future sort of sheared away from areas and then pooled. That was then though. Before I give up on this, I will try cutting it like you noted. I would really like to make this work because the shine is decent, it's cheap, it's low odor, and as you mentioned it does not react badly to the underlying paint layers.

Thanks for posting!

 

Hey John-- you are a steely-eyed missile-man.

I tried cutting Future 50/50 using IPA and it was a different experience. It sprayed like silk. The future leveled much better and I was able to keep sags under control. I was not noticing any orange peel or splatter, and I was able to draw out a nice sheen/shine.

From this test-- it has brought me great hope that this will work for me. I will do more tests over the weekend to confirm all this. I can see this being very useful for things like the airliner you built. This stuff will provide a perfect shine for that. And this should be good for my model T too. I will test that over the enamel once I get there. Finally, I can see this as a good layer between washes and especially if it does not add artifacts to the paint layer. The stuff has the added benefit of easy cleanup, low odor, and it's very cost effective. 

That said... I don't think I'd be reaching for it if  I'd want a deep automotive clear finish. But maybe... who knows.

Thought I'd let you know.

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Friday, January 14, 2022 9:10 AM

Space Ranger

 

 
Bakster

 

 
BrandonK

Oh, I nearly forgot. Tamiay X-22 is a fantastic clear for most anything. It may be what you are looking for. Use some Mr Hobby Leveling Thinner in it and you cannot go wrong.

BK

 

 

 

I thought I once read here that X22 was designed to be a mixing agent for flats and such. Probably a misnomer. I found this video done by the same guy that I posted the other day. He did test sprays of x22 using different types of thinners and processes, one of which uses Mr Hobby Leveling Thinner. Best I can tell, I like the Mr Hobby version best but depending on what you are going after, some of the other options may fit.

https://youtu.be/tyCng3nEdik

 

 

 

 

Tamiya X-22 is Clear. Tamiya X-21 is Flat Base, a matting agent intended to be added to gloss paint to flatten it. You can also add it to X-22 to make a satin or semigloss clear. You can also add it to Future.

 

Yep. I figured it was a misnomer. Thanks for clarifying. 

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Friday, January 14, 2022 9:09 AM

Good to know Olezippi. This is what I was hoping for.  Seeing what people use, what works, what doesn't. This thread probably belongs in the Painting section but since I was leaning to the automotive side of things-- I thought I'd put it here.

Thanks for sharing this. Yes

  • Member since
    November 2021
  • From: Southern Indiana
Posted by Olezippi on Friday, January 14, 2022 7:57 AM

I did a clear coat test early last summer with spoons. I sprayed all three through my Paasche H air brush.  I used Tamiya TS-13 clear, Rust-Oleum clear gloss enamel, and Pledge Revive-it.  All 3 seem to have the same shine.  I sprayed the Pledge straight out of the bottle at 15 psi.  I now use Rust-Oleum Cyrstal clear acrylic lacquer which seems to have better results for me.  

"If you can't fix it with duct tape then it's and electrical problem"

  • Member since
    January 2020
Posted by Space Ranger on Friday, January 14, 2022 7:07 AM

Bakster

 

 
BrandonK

Oh, I nearly forgot. Tamiay X-22 is a fantastic clear for most anything. It may be what you are looking for. Use some Mr Hobby Leveling Thinner in it and you cannot go wrong.

BK

 

 

 

I thought I once read here that X22 was designed to be a mixing agent for flats and such. Probably a misnomer. I found this video done by the same guy that I posted the other day. He did test sprays of x22 using different types of thinners and processes, one of which uses Mr Hobby Leveling Thinner. Best I can tell, I like the Mr Hobby version best but depending on what you are going after, some of the other options may fit.

https://youtu.be/tyCng3nEdik

 

 

Tamiya X-22 is Clear. Tamiya X-21 is Flat Base, a matting agent intended to be added to gloss paint to flatten it. You can also add it to X-22 to make a satin or semigloss clear. You can also add it to Future.

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Friday, January 14, 2022 6:37 AM

BrandonK
Were you using thier hardener? I know MCW paints need a hardener and the automotive 2K paints, even the airsoles use a hardener. Otherwise they basically never cure up. Curious what your experience was with regard to that.

 

BK

 

Yup.  I was using their hardener, which you mix 50/50 with the paint.  I use separate pippettes when mixing so I don't cross-contaminate, and the two components get mixed in a little Dixie bathroom cup.  I don't mix anything in my airbrush, because you can never guarantee a consistent mix that way.  Any 2K model paint should come as a kit, with a bottle of paint and a bottle of catalyst, which is what MRP does with theirs.  It does completely harden...just takes a lot longer than what the manufacturer claims.  Just wanted people to know that so they don't completely screw up a beautiful paint job by handling too early.  Can't always trust what the manufacturer tells you.  Cool

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Thursday, January 13, 2022 7:20 PM

BrandonK

Oh, I nearly forgot. Tamiay X-22 is a fantastic clear for most anything. It may be what you are looking for. Use some Mr Hobby Leveling Thinner in it and you cannot go wrong.

BK

 

I thought I once read here that X22 was designed to be a mixing agent for flats and such. Probably a misnomer. I found this video done by the same guy that I posted the other day. He did test sprays of x22 using different types of thinners and processes, one of which uses Mr Hobby Leveling Thinner. Best I can tell, I like the Mr Hobby version best but depending on what you are going after, some of the other options may fit.

https://youtu.be/tyCng3nEdik

 

  • Member since
    June 2014
Posted by BrandonK on Thursday, January 13, 2022 5:10 PM

Oh, I nearly forgot. Tamiay X-22 is a fantastic clear for most anything. It may be what you are looking for. Use some Mr Hobby Leveling Thinner in it and you cannot go wrong.

BK

On the bench:

Tamiya 1/35 M4A3E8 "Fury" with crew,

1/32 Kittyhawk Kingfisher,

1/35 Meng Panther Ausf A Early,

1/48 Pro Modeller P-51C "Boise Bee"

2022 Completed:

1/25 Revell 29 Highboy

1/48 Tamiya Sea Harrier

1/25 Revell 70 Boss 429 Mustang

1/48 Hasegawa D3A1 Type 99 Val

  • Member since
    June 2014
Posted by BrandonK on Thursday, January 13, 2022 11:14 AM

Eaglecash867
Just be aware that some 2K paints have a REALLY LONG curing time,

Were you using thier hardener? I know MCW paints need a hardener and the automotive 2K paints, even the airsoles use a hardener. Otherwise they basically never cure up. Curious what your experience was with regard to that.

BK

On the bench:

Tamiya 1/35 M4A3E8 "Fury" with crew,

1/32 Kittyhawk Kingfisher,

1/35 Meng Panther Ausf A Early,

1/48 Pro Modeller P-51C "Boise Bee"

2022 Completed:

1/25 Revell 29 Highboy

1/48 Tamiya Sea Harrier

1/25 Revell 70 Boss 429 Mustang

1/48 Hasegawa D3A1 Type 99 Val

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Thursday, January 13, 2022 10:23 AM

rocketman2000
Depends on the subject.  Clear coats are only found on modern cars, rods and customs.  For older cars I just polish the gloss paint finish.  Laquer paints polish the best

Hey Don-- that is good input. Your comment about older cars fits with my project because I am working on a Model T. I thought about polishing the enamel paint that I'll be using, and that is certainly a good solution, maybe the best. I just figured that I'd like to apply a clear for dust purposes and to maybe negate the polishing process and avoid things like burn through. For this project, I am not looking for a deep clear, and that is why I thought that Future might be a good solution. It is not a deep clear-- it is more of a sheen or shine.

My interests seem to be migrating towards cars and I need to come up with a game plan on clears. New things to learn!

Thanks for chiming in!

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Thursday, January 13, 2022 10:10 AM

keavdog
I'm a Future fan.

Hey John-- it is good to hear a success story.  As of yesterday, I was ready to punt on this. I did more experimenting with it and I just can't seem to spray a blemish free coat, not even close. Either I get orange peel, or if I spray heavy, I get sags. But worse than the sags, I see some splattering.

What I didn't think to try was cutting it with IPA. I tried that years ago with a dismal outcome. At the time that I tried it, the Future sort of sheared away from areas and then pooled. That was then though. Before I give up on this, I will try cutting it like you noted. I would really like to make this work because the shine is decent, it's cheap, it's low odor, and as you mentioned it does not react badly to the underlying paint layers.

Thanks for posting!

  • Member since
    June 2021
Posted by rocketman2000 on Thursday, January 13, 2022 9:15 AM

Depends on the subject.  Clear coats are only found on modern cars, rods and customs.  For older cars I just polish the gloss paint finish.  Laquer paints polish the best.

For modern cars, rods, even modern racing cars I usually use Testors gloss coat. However, since that is getting harder to find, I have been experimenting with hardware store gloss transparent finishes- lacquer, polyurethane, and acrylic.  They all work, but the nozzles are like hoses, so you get a really thick high gloss finish.  That is why I pick up Glosscoat whenever I find it.  The nozzles are great, you get a soft spray, and I can control the amount of gloss.  I even found a semi-gloss acrylic one time, but the next time I went there it was no longer available.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by keavdog on Wednesday, January 12, 2022 11:24 PM

I'm a Future fan.  I love it for pre decaling my military stuff.  I've had some great luck clearcoating airliners and some autos with it as well.  I thin it 50/50 with isopropyl alcohol and spray about 17 PSI.   This is one of the first airliners I did and was very happy with the Future coat

 I also like because it won't interact with other paints so there's no disasters.

Thanks,

John

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Wednesday, January 12, 2022 9:50 PM

Thanks Eaglecash, I will look into it.

I just watched a pretty good video comparing a lacquer based clear, verses a 2k clear. 2k is night and day glossier, without polishing, hands down. The major aspect of 2k that keeps me from jumping on that train is that your are dealing with some seriously harmful chemicals. A person must take serious precautions, and right now, I don't want to take it to that level. But... the stuff really produces a serious gloss. 

If interested, the video is below.

https://youtu.be/AWjWYFY2pGc

 

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Wednesday, January 12, 2022 7:29 PM

Hey Bakster.  Something I have used here and there lately is AKs Intermediate Gauzy Agent Shine Enhancer.  It self-levels really well, even when airbrushed, so you don't get orange peel with it.  Great protectant for bare metal type finishes.  The jury is still out on its longevity of course, since its so new, but it seems to be pretty good stuff so far.  Cure time on that is overnight or less.  

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Wednesday, January 12, 2022 6:40 PM

Hey Eaglecash, that is really good to know about the slow cure of 2k. It's not a deal stopper for me but it's important to know regarding handling and such.

Also, I guess I didn't know Future will yellow. That being the case, then yeah, what's the point. Sigh. Time to go in a new direction. I don't know if I want to go the 2k method just yet. I believe Testers Gloss Coat yellows too. Maybe I am wrong About that.

What other good options are there for a clear that can be sanded and polished? 

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