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Clear coats

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  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Wednesday, January 12, 2022 5:11 PM

I haven't used 2K clear yet, but I have been using MRP 2K black for Alclad undercoating when I have a fairly large, flat surface that more easily shows imperfections in the undercoating.  Smaller and/or irregularly-shaped parts just get standard gloss black lacquer.  The 2K stuff works great, and the level of gloss is so far beyond everything else that its hard to describe it.  Just be aware that some 2K paints have a REALLY LONG curing time, regardless of what the manufacturer of the paint may claim, so do a test shot with some mixed paint and catalyst on something you won't mind ruining.  I think MRP claimed 6 hours to being tack free, and my spoon test showed that was nowhere near accurate.  It was still very much wet, not even just tacky yet, after 6 hours.  After 3 days, it was hard and tack free, but could still be dented with a fingernail.  7 days turned out to be the magic number.  Its hard as glass in 7 days, and putting Alclad over it looks really impressive.

I'm definitely with you on using Future.  It makes a good adhesive for small, flat PE parts and small clear parts, but that's about it.  To keep the stuff from cracking and yellowing over time, you have to put a clear lacquer over the top of it, so it leaves me wondering "What's the point of putting Future on it?".  Bang Head

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Wednesday, January 12, 2022 4:12 PM

Hey Brandon-- I love the input you gave and I have heard 2K is the bomb. It seems to be what people are migrating to. One thing for sure-- it seems to provide a rock solid finish.

I would love to hear how it goes for you once when you have tried it.

Thanks again..

  • Member since
    June 2014
Posted by BrandonK on Wednesday, January 12, 2022 3:37 PM

I hate Future and the only reason I can see why folks use it is that it is cheap. I personally hate trying to get it to look how I want so I quit using it altogether. I know some folks think it's the bee's knees, but not for me. 

For auto finishes I'm assuming most of the time we want that base coat clear coat look rather than the single stage look of older paint work. I prefer the former, but each has its place. For me, I would rather clear and polish and get a glass smooth look than speed up the process and not get the results I have in my mind.

I used to use and still do somewhat a rattle can clear Krylon that works very well. I just had a reaction to MM Enamal (acrylic seems to be fine) on my last paint so I am stripping that and will attempt to use 2K clear for the first time over MM Enamel. Others have said they had no issues. I will still have to cut and buff, but I expect that on auto finishes. It's just part of the process of building cars.

I find that anytime I attempt to shortcut a process I usually end up with twice the work, so anymore I just take the time to cut and buff.

BK

On the bench:

Tamiya 1/35 M4A3E8 "Fury" with crew,

1/32 Kittyhawk Kingfisher,

1/35 Meng Panther Ausf A Early,

1/48 Pro Modeller P-51C "Boise Bee"

2022 Completed:

1/25 Revell 29 Highboy

1/48 Tamiya Sea Harrier

1/25 Revell 70 Boss 429 Mustang

1/48 Hasegawa D3A1 Type 99 Val

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Clear coats
Posted by Bakster on Wednesday, January 12, 2022 3:23 PM

I am way behind the eight ball when it comes to using Future. Years back, I had tried it, and I had a heck of the time getting it through my AB.  I upgraded ABs since then and last night I tried spraying it on a test piece. It sprayed very well but it produced an orange peel finish. In terms of by what degree, it is not the worst I have seen by any stretch, but it is more than I will accept. And this has been my concern all along with using it. YouTube videos where people demonstrate its use always seem to show that OP. Maybe that's as good as it gets? I would really like to use this stuff in some manor but not at the expense of the finish.

As for autos--I know that I can get the finish I want using a clear lacquer, then sand with progressively smaller grit, followed with a polish. I know that works. I'd just like to find a simpler method. There is a YouTube channel that I follow, and the man literally brushes Future over his entire model. It looks crazy when he does it. The model is finished, and he slathers future over the entire car, windows, and all. And to be honest-- I have seen drips and sags on the final reveal. For his channel and his purposes, it's good enough. I did a little experimenting with his brushing technique and had so so results. I thought if I'd put it on in a more controlled method that maybe it would work. As of today, I am not so optimistic.

I am still working with it to see what I can do but I thought I'd start a discussion. What are you folks using, and what is your process?  My question is focused more on Auto finishes, but I'd be interested in other genres as well. I know it is commonly used to enhance decaling and/or to provide a barrier against washes.

Thanks in advance.

 

 

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