Medieval figures completed (pics)

Primer is just that.
I let it sit and cure for at least 24 hours after applying. I use vallejo acrylics for most of my figure work now. I used to put a base color down of acrylic and then use enamels or oils for shading. Its easier because you can get some nice physical blends with them. The acrylics though have a quality about them that really appeals to me. This requires a mechanical blend or layered technique of blending. Sort of making a topograhical map out of color. With each layer lighter and smaller then the previous till the highlights are built up. And conversely for the shadows. Any time lost doing it this way is made up for becuase of the shorter drying time of acrylics.

RENARTS - When painting knights, do you do the chain-mail first? I have this CD from Andrea that it does not really say whether the face, garment, or chain-mail should be done first. Any help hints?

Did the pictures get removed? I can't view them, all I see are the small boxes with little red "x"'s. From all the reaction, they sound like something I don't want to miss!

Regards;
Glenn

The pics were probobly relocated on the host server. I'll have to go back and find where they've been moved to and reinsert them in the post.

Snoopy,

I paint my figures from the inside out. Meaning that I paint the base coat of the flesh first, then the underclothes(if they show), gambeson or aketon, chainmail, plate armor if necessary (poulaines, pauldrons, plastron, grieves, cuisses, spaulders, helmet etc..) then surcoat.

This gves me a head start and all the basecoats are laid in and allowed to cure for at least 24 hours. Then I go in a detail the face and the cloting in the same order. HIghlights first then shadows. Any weathering to the clothing, equipment comes last.

Chainmail I paint as a very dark blue, very dark. Then I give it a wash of black, to give it some depth. Steel or metallic grey is drybrushed over that. then the "highlights" are done with chrome silver. (This is the lightest of drybrushings). To enhance the folds in the chainmail and give a little more depth to the shadow areas I finish in those with Tamiya smoke or another light wash of black.

Hope it helps.

They're still not visible, at least on the computer I'm using. That's what I call irritating, after reading all those comments...

ok hopefully all fixed and here are some that I think were lost from old posts.

DDDDAAAAAAAAANNNNNNGGGGGGG!!!!!!!!!!!!! kick a*s renarts!! lookin awesome! I couldn't get the pics earlier also, but now......man do they look good.

-gringe

I can't see the pictures in the post. Anyone have any clues as to why? I can see pictures in other post. As soon as I unpack mine I hope to post some pics if I can figure out how.
John

RENARTS,

Do you always use Vallajo paints (I can't spell so for give me on my spelling)? All I have is Andrea Miniatures starter paint set. Any experience with these? Have any idea what I can thin them with? I do not have them in front of me but I think they are acrylic but unknown as to what type of acrylic. I will be starting to paint tonight and when I borrow a digital camera I will post pics, also when I have figured out how to post them.

Hey SNOOPY,

Just got back from a medieval event doing some 1:1 "modeling" so I'm sorry for the late reply. The Andrea paints are produced by Vallejo so they are no doubt similar in quality and application.

You can thin them with water. If you have very hard water (a high mineral content) you can use distilled water or bottled water. The high mineral content can sometimes leave a slight scale or white staining (much like salt stains on a dark shirt on a hot day).

Pretty much anything that you are comfortable with or looks good can work for paninting figures. Though I use vallejo paints primarily for figures, I have and will use, oils, americana or liquitex acrylics, tamiya acrylics, humbrol, and in some instances testors enamels. If it looks good and you're happy with the finish then it works.

Can't wait to see the finished product.

Renarts,

I have started the painting process. The chain mail is almost done. I start paint his cape/cloak. For the clock, I am using a chromium green by Windors. The first coat lookes okay but it does not cover very well. I am going to try another light coat and see what happens. I will try to borrow a camera this week and try to post pics, if I can figure how.

you may have to do 2 or three coats to get a nice solid base coat. Several thin coats is better than 1 too thick coat that can fill in detail if the paint is too thick. Build it up and let it dry between coats. You may have to let it cure as some paints will rehydrate and you'll just move pigment around the surface and create thin spots again. If they are cured which can be anywhere from a couple of hours to a couple of days, dependent on the paint ,you should be ok to apply your next coat.