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1/35 Zeon Mobile Scout in desert colors - W.I.P.

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  • Member since
    November 2008
Posted by Antonioces on Sunday, December 7, 2008 9:04 AM

Really nice work cosmic J.... did you try to drill out the head and seed the german helmet adapting this to the figure supplied with the kit? I think that your idea it's really interesting.

I respecfully disagree with Smeagol because I think that you can make a new versiòn of those famous long-range desert recon patrols of the second WW...those guys wore their helmets (when they did) and big protective glasses... 

I could even dare to suggest and addition of luggage, watter cans, weapons and other items hanging up the sides of the hover craft.... I don't know....

Greetings

Antonio

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Philadelphia PA
Posted by smeagol the vile on Saturday, December 6, 2008 11:17 PM
The head does look nice, but you gota remember, those arent hover crafts, there air craft, without a full helmet like on the figure he couldnt really pilot that.

 

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Louisville, KY.
Posted by Cosmic J on Saturday, December 6, 2008 6:24 PM

[8D] Thank you. Glad you liked it.

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Dublin Rep Of Ireland
Posted by terry35 on Saturday, December 6, 2008 5:20 PM

Great post i have really enjoyed what I've read so far. Very interesting.

Keep up the good work.

Terry.

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Louisville, KY.
Posted by Cosmic J on Friday, December 5, 2008 11:39 AM

Yeah, he does have a giraffe kind of thing going, don't he? That would be easy to fix; the resin is relatively soft and it would be easy to sand him down. The pictures don't show it well, but in the meat world the scale difference is really noticeable.

The goggled figure's neck is so wide that it won't even fit inside the collar on the torso (the blu-tack kinda hides it a bit). I'd have to sand the collar completely off and sculpt a wider one. Even then, he'd still look like a bobble head. [(-D]

  • Member since
    January 2008
  • From: Massachusetts
Posted by tetsujin on Friday, December 5, 2008 11:11 AM
I think the head could be OK on that figure - it's just the neck that's way too long...
---GEC
  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Louisville, KY.
Posted by Cosmic J on Thursday, December 4, 2008 3:34 AM

Alrighty then. I didn't forget this project, I just hit a snag. Specifically, the figure.

I didn't like the figure at all, particularly it's head, and so I thought I'd replace it w/ something better. I ordered some 1/35 D.A.K. heads from Warriors. They look great and have good detail and expressions. The helmets look a little different than most German helmets from WWII; they have these sort of extensions in the front and back that make them look not quite right. One of them had some cool looking goggles too. Just what I was looking for.

Unfortunately, as you can see the figure that comes w/ my scout is not quite the same scale as the Warrior heads. It's noticeably smaller in fact. Honestly, I can't express my disappointment. This means that either I sculpt my own figure, or I'm stuck w/ the kit supplied one. For now, I'm going w/ the kit figure. [sigh]

His feet don't really reach the control pedals, and his hands are in an awkward, unnatural position. I'm really not happy w/ him. If anybody can point me towards a suitable replacement, I'll be your friend for life.

Since that was settled (for now), I set out finalizing construction w/ an eye toward painting. The only thing I deviated from the instructions on was drilling a small hole in the mount for the antenna. It was kinda small:

Because the kits structure is so open, I'll have to paint most of it before final assembly.

Next up, paint.

  • Member since
    February 2008
  • From: Schaumburg, IL
Posted by SkullGundam on Thursday, October 2, 2008 1:53 PM

I've been hiding out at school.  Disapprove [V]  It's not too bad but I haven't had much time for models.  I've got pics of an SD Gundam and a WH Eldar to put up but I just haven't had time to do it.  I've been here reading, just haven't had time to post.  Good to know I'm missed.  Keep up the good work and kind words will always come from me. 

SG

If at first you do succeed, try to hide your astonishment.

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  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Louisville, KY.
Posted by Cosmic J on Thursday, October 2, 2008 6:01 AM

Hey SG. Good to see you. I was wondering where you were hiding out.

Haven't done much work on this one or the hovertruck lately. I was waiting for some detail parts to get here from HLJ. They arrived today, so I expect to have something new (for both of them) by next week.

I appreciate the kind words. Thank you.

  • Member since
    February 2008
  • From: Schaumburg, IL
Posted by SkullGundam on Friday, September 26, 2008 3:10 PM
Man this is cool.  I love that base idea.  I really cant wait to see how your scout turns out too.  This looks like a cool little kit.  You should be able to pull off some really cool stuff with it.  I'm also looking forward to your hovertruck.  I know you had some questions about the japanese and I tried reading the instruction page you had taken a photo of but the letters weren't big enough for me to see.  Youre doing an awesome job, cant wait to see more. 

If at first you do succeed, try to hide your astonishment.

Join the Club and Swap Books for Free! - PaperBackSwap.com

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Louisville, KY.
1/35 Zeon Mobile Scout in desert colors - W.I.P.
Posted by Cosmic J on Sunday, September 21, 2008 4:12 AM

Ok, so we decided to start a group build in which we would build a sci-fi model, and then paint it in WWII colors.

I decided that the (first) kit I build for the GB will be the U.C. HardGraph Zeon Mobile Scout:

http://www.hlj.com/product/BAN945937

Mostly because I already have one in the stash. I intend do it in D.A.K. desert colors, w/ appropriate markings.

Ok, so I stated by opening the box and checking out all the pieces. Many of the parts are quite delicate, and there were special structures on the sprues to protect them. Very nice.

Next, I began test fitting parts. I wanted to see if this was going to be a difficult build, or if it was just going to fall together. I also wanted to get an idea of the models "footprint"; that is, how much space would be required on a scenic base to display it.

Here, some of the parts have been glued, but most are just push fitted together. Engineering on this kit is really nice. You can see how delicate it is. I've got to decide where to drill a hole for the brass rod that will support it when it's done. Hmmm.

Since this will be an ‘in-flight' display, I really should have looked at the figure first, since he will be a focal point for the model. Looks ok, but I'm going to have to build him to really know. I don't like the helmet, so I may replace the head altogether.

I know the model will be mostly stock, so now I've got to get the base ready.

I set the model on a piece of thick paper, and added about an inch to either side for terrain and incidentals. (In hindsight, I should have added the legs to the piece before deciding how big it's base should be. Ah well, if there's not enough room, I can always make another. Smile [:)] )

Once I had a rough idea how much space it would take up, I cut a piece of the approximate size from the paper. Seems about right.

Then I used that guide to make a mock up of the base from paper and tape. I decided to make the base ¾ of an inch thick, for no other reason than it looked about right.

Next, using the pieces of my mock up as a template, I scribed and cut pieces of 2mm sheet styrene, and used those pieces to assemble the base. I end up having a box shaped display, w/ a 2mm tray in it to contain whatever I use for ground work (celluclay or mold-a-scene most likely). Notice I added a ¾ inch border on the front. This is a place for the model's title, and maybe the scale.

I'm not done yet though. The base is too lightweight, and I'll want to drill into it so I can mount the model on a brass rod, so...

I flip the base over, and run superglue into the corners. I then swept the scriber shavings and the plastic dust from sanding the pieces into the tray, shaking it around so that it sticks to the glue. Waste not, want not.

For years now, whenever I finish a kit I've saved the excess sprues. I chop them up into manageable pieces and store them in a bag.

Here's why; First I take the extra sprue and shake it into the tray, using only enough to fill in almost to the brim, but not quite.

Then I break out the casting resin. This particular batch is getting old, and is only suitable to the purpose I intend for it.

I mix up the last of it, and pour it into the tray over the sprue bits.

As it hardens, it expands slightly, and it gets very hot. The old plastic bits act as heat sinks, absorbing some of the heat and keeping the tray from melting. The plastic also takes up space (volume) and therefore I can use less resin.

When it hardens, it turns white. It didn't quite fill up the base, but that‘s the last of it. It works for what I needed it to; It makes the base solid, gives it some weight and also gives me a foundation to drill into.

After filling the outer seams w/ superglue and sanding everything flush, I check to see if I still like the size. It's all good, so now it's ready to be drilled and painted.

Continuing w/ the model, I cleaned up most of the parts in preparation for assembly. I added some hex bolts to the landing gear because I thought they looked a little plain.

After building the base, I needed to figure out how I wanted to mount the model on it.

I had already decided on an "in-flight' style display. To that end, I drilled a hole in both the base and the model to accept a brass rod. The holes were not at the perfect angle, so I had to tweak the rod a little.

That looks about right.

Then I decided to improve the intakes on the rear fan. The kit has screens that are molded solid, but they don't look very convincing, especially when the fan's cover is on.

I started by drilling out the fans w/ carbide drill bits I got from Micro Mark.

Then, w/ a motor tool set on the lowest setting and some needle files, I hollowed out and trimmed the opening to shape.

Lastly, I used some mesh screen I had left over from a Tamiya Marder A1 kit. I carefully glued the screen in place w/ super glue, and then trimmed it w/ some sharp scissors. Looks much better.

Next up, the figure.

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