They look friggin' awesome to me!

Thanks G... they've been a pain in the butt... been really dusting off my 3D modeling skills to get them working right. Glad everyone likes them so far!

Wow... I really gotta get on the ball here.  Been kinda stalled out lately due to the delay problem DeAgo has had in shipping 11 to me.  Just got it Saturday and billed for 12 today, so  in any event, hopefully I'll be able to get some more work done.  Been busy making a bunch of new stuff for Shapeways too.  Well be featuring them here when I get them in the mail next week.  Here's a preview of what I've made so far...

Here's a wall pit for the wall to the side of the interior nav computer.  Goes behind the wall after you cut the 2 holes out for it.

Here's a new front wall insert... instead of gluing onto the wall, this one is made to be inserted into the wall after cutting a hole in it... will allow the whole assembly to be set back far enough to allow the bunk wall to look better.

Here's one I've thought of doing for awhile now.  It's a Fake Wall for the gunner turret hallway.  You place this (with the ladder attached) before the bend in the hallway and it will look alot more screen accurate (even thou it doesn't actually go to the turrets).

This piece is a translucent light pipe to replace the bunk light.  You glue a single 1.8mm LED in the middle hole and paint it all black.  Then sand off the large round areas and the light should be more to scale then having a full on LED there blowing out the lighting in your kit.

So... I have been busy working on stuff... a few little things to help the cause for everyone.  You can see my shop on Shapeways if you'd like any of these here: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/satyrsmodels

Lemme know what you think!

I see you have been busy on the 'puter again Jim.  

As to the light pipe, you really don't need to paint the whole thing black.  If it comes as a slightly frosted part, just paint the recessed area in the center and that will work.

As to that wall part next to the nav 'puter, you know I will be checking so it better be right.  

Just waiting on parts to get here before trying to mod the hold.  Too much is going  to change, so I want to know how it all fits first rather than mod it and it not fit.

Stuff is looking good though!

Heavens Eagle

I see you have been busy on the 'puter again Jim.  

Yeah... been waiting for my latest pack of parts... 11 just arrived and I got billed for 12.

As to the light pipe, you really don't need to paint the whole thing black.  If it comes as a slightly frosted part, just paint the recessed area in the center and that will work.

That was the idea.  To make the light be diffused a bit more then direct LED.  The easiest way to handle it, it glue a 1.8mm blub to the end, then paint the whole thing black with a couple of layers.  Once it's dry, sand the outside rounded tubes along the length of them to expose the translucent clear resin beneath.  The sanding will also aide in diffusing the light and making it more uniform, otherwise you end up with hotspots.

As to that wall part next to the nav 'puter, you know I will be checking so it better be right.  

Let's take a look shall we?

Ok... you tell me! :)

Just waiting on parts to get here before trying to mod the hold.  Too much is going  to change, so I want to know how it all fits first rather than mod it and it not fit.

Stuff is looking good though!

Thanks bro... glad you like em!

Cool stuff!!! 

Gamera

Cool stuff!!!  

Oh... I'm just getting warmed UP! LOL  Glad you like it bro!

Ok all... here's the latest news on the figure front.  I took down all the sitting figures (really didn't want to bend them anyway).  The reason... Well first off they appeared too big so I shrunk them down about 10% and now they are too small.  But they weren't too big, just the way the legs were bent made them impossible to fit under the cockpit dashboard without tons of sanding to get them to fit.  So... I took them down.  Now something else that has come to light is that the interior is actually a smaller scale then the cockpit... it appears it's around 1:47.3 scale.  So that means having to make 2 different sizes 1:43 for the cockpit and 1:48 for the interior.  BUT don't fear... I'm fixing them.  Now, I have separated all the arms and legs and now you can pose them any way you want and you shouldn't have any more problems!  Here's the new offerings:

https://www.shapeways.com/product/D4X7JGAZF/1-43-han-esb-separated-for-deago-falcon?li=shop-results&optionId=58943655

https://www.shapeways.com/product/LB64G9AWP/1-48-han-esb-separated-for-deago-and-hasbro-falcon?li=more-from-shop&optionId=58945303

https://www.shapeways.com/product/DAA5NGK25/1-43-leia-separated-for-deago-falcon?li=more-from-shop&optionId=58985494

https://www.shapeways.com/product/7QRUNL22X/1-48-leia-esb-separated-for-deago-and-hasbro-falco?li=shop-results&optionId=58999952

https://www.shapeways.com/product/U5WECXLSP/1-43-chewie-separated-for-deago-falcon?li=shop-results&optionId=58953585

https://www.shapeways.com/product/66FSVJYCP/1-48-chewie-separated-for-deago-and-hasbro-falcons?li=shop-results&optionId=58999846

https://www.shapeways.com/product/GC6NK2YNE/1-43-c-3po-separated-for-deago-falcon?li=shop-results&optionId=59039142

https://www.shapeways.com/product/DNM6JVTSV/1-48-c-3po-separated-for-deago-hasbro-falcons?li=shop-results&optionId=59040240

Oh wait... there's more! :)

https://www.shapeways.com/product/9VZMP6AMS/1-43-han-chewie-esb-separated-crew-for-deago-falco?li=shop-results&optionId=59000213

https://www.shapeways.com/product/82K52APER/1-48-han-chewie-esb-crew-for-deago-hasbro-falcons?li=shop-results&optionId=59001085

https://www.shapeways.com/product/8BS7ZLPU2/1-43-esb-cockpit-crew-separated-for-deago-falcon?li=shop-results&optionId=59039955

https://www.shapeways.com/product/YVEN9QKNJ/1-48-esb-crew-separated-for-the-deago-hasbro-falco?li=shop-results&optionId=59043382

That's where I'm at right now... more to come I promise!

been getting alot of questions about my figs and parts and figured I would post it here for anyone that has any questions... I'm currently reworking all my sitting figures and have removed them... I have been separating all the figures so they can be put together in any pose or position you want... but until then... here's are my FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions)

Q: Which scale figures should I get for my Falcon?
A: Depends on which Falcon you're building and where you're putting them.

• If you're looking for figures for the cockpit of the DeAgostini Falcon - Get the 1:43 Separated Figures. You can also get the 1:43 Standing Figures and cut them yourself...
• If you're building the Hasbro Falcon and want figures for the cockpit - Get the 1:48 Separated Figures. They will fit perfectly.
• If you want figures for the interior cargo lounge of the DeAgo Falcon - Get the 1:48 Separated Figures... the interior is smaller scale then the rest of the ship and the 1:48 should work perfectly.

Q: Where do I put the Pit Wall?
A: The Pit Wall goes behind the plastic wall after cutting the holes next to the corridor opening next to the nav computer. They don't go in front of the wall... only behind it.

Q: Why did you make a front wall rib peice?
A: The other available front wall piece glues onto the surface of the wall and ends up being too far forward blocking the far sidewall and the bunk wall details. Mine is made to be inserted THRU the wall. You cut out a hole in the forward wall and glue this in it. It gives a false sense of more space and places the ribs further against the wall freeing up space for detail on the side walls!

Q: Where does the Fake Ladder go?
A: The Fake Ladder goes in the bent hallway leading to the gun turrets. It should be placed right before the bend in the hallway (it may need to be trimmed a bit to fit and conform to the ribbed cushions on the side walls) and painted and lit from behind to more accurately represent the full size set.

Q: How does the Light Pipe work?
A: The light pipe is placed just in front and below the upper bunk. You need to glue a 1.8mm LED into the hole (using a clear cement) and paint the whole thing with a couple of layers of flat black. Then sand off the paint on the tubes outer surfaces. When the LED is lit it should light up the entire piece more realistically and look really good.

Q: Where did you get the figures from?
A: I used publically available sources for the base designs for many of the figures but have extensively modified, fixed, repaired, upgraded, rebuilt, and reconstructed them for printing.

That should do it for now... please feel free to ask any other questions you may have about any of my products and I'll respond on my blog on the RPF and on my Facebook group here for first hand updates when I release any new products... and above all... thanks for your support!

The figures are all looking quite good Jim!  Have decided to shelve my build until I have enough of the hull parts to properly determine sizes and fits.   Until then I will be watching.  

Heavens Eagle

The figures are all looking quite good Jim!  Have decided to shelve my build until I have enough of the hull parts to properly determine sizes and fits.   Until then I will be watching. 

Well we at the RPF have pretty much worked out the math.  The provided cockpit is squeezed and distorted an falls at 1:41.5 approx.  The Shapeways cockpit by Tony is dead on 1:43.  Now as for the Cargo interior lounge, the scale we've found is 1:47.3 based on the known measurements from the blueprints and scaled to the provided parts.  So.. in rounding it out... 1:48 for the inside... 1:43 for the cockpit (scrap the provided one).  Work for you? :)

I'll just drop this here: 

Those figures are amazing, I want to build a Falcon now myself just so I can use them!!!

Thanks... It looks like all those are mine except R2 and 3PO

It's been awhile... I've been doing alot of work lately and getting things ready for painting... got the underside all together and ready... here's a few pics of what I've got done so far.



I started working on the bottom details as well... love detail on the back engine.





And when everything is in place... oh mamma!!



Also got the recess pits finished




Really starting to come together!

Something I was looking at are these stupid indented "damage" marks all over the hull.



Been thinking about what to do to make them more realistic.  I've seen all kinds of approaches to the problem and I'm sitting here thinking that the marks themselves are in the proper place, even the correct shape.  I'm thinking that when they did a scan of the hull for these places, the computer couldn't interpret what was actually there and used a default setting to just make an indention instead of the actual way the damage was on the hull... and that got me thinking.  Perhaps if I just took the harsh edges off the sides of them they might look alot better.  So, I got out my dremel and a fine bit and went to town on all the damage marks.  I think they came out looking alot better... what do you think?






Came out looking better than I expected




What do you guys think?

Here's the mostly completed underside... getting it all prepped for painting...

Well seeing as I'm waiting for my paints from DOA to arrive I figured I would make myself a Airbrush Spray Booth so I didn't get paint all over the floor.  So I went to Walmart and picked up the follow supplies...

- 7 sheets of 30x20 foam core board
- 1 12x12x1 Hepa filter
- 1 12 inch square battery operated/ac adapter powered box fan
- 1 cheap power strip
- 1 cheap under cabinet fluorescent light



Total was under $50 bucks... not too bad.  I started with a basic design...



Since the sheets were 30x20 inches I figured I would use one whole sheet for the working area.  So I set to cutting out my sheets.




Not having a compass, I discovered that using a paper plate it was the perfect size for the opening in the fan, and by folding it in half horizontally and vertically I could find the center with no problem.  I used it to cut a hole out of one sheet and then hot glued my fan in the center of it.  I made sure that I filled all the gaps to make it air tight.





I cut a wire coat hanger and used a few bolts, nuts and washers to hold the filter to the inner wall.  This will allow me to change out the filter relatively easy.  I used some weather stripping on the back side of the filter to give it a better seal against the opening I cut and started putting all the parts together.







Got everything together with duct tape and some hot glue alot all the inside edges to make it air tight... here's the final outcome and first test run.

Nice work, the reworked hull damage does look much better than what was molded in. 

And neat air booth there, please let us know how it works out. 

It looks cool...

Gamera

Nice work, the reworked hull damage does look much better than what was molded in. 

And neat air booth there, please let us know how it works out.

Thanks bro... will keep ya posted! :)

Bakster

It looks cool... 

Thanks... Glad you like it!

Latest update... been using my new spray booth and it works like a champ.  Really draws the fumes out and works better then I could have hoped!  I've been using it for some small stuff right now... have been experimenting with different colors for the base coat... I picked up a few different Krylon paints to see which one would look best as a base coat.  I got Ivory, Sea Green, White, and Almond... will paint as swatches and do a comparison soon to see which one comes out looking best.  Will post the results here to let everyone know when it's done!

I've been testing various other base paints to use as a substitution for the hard to find Tamiya Insignia White.  I tried out 4 different Krylon colors and my initial thoughts were correct.  The colors I tried are Almond, Ivory, Flat White and Aqua.  Here's what they look like and are pretty readily available just about everywhere in large supplies (so no need to worry about them running out of stock any time soon).

I took some paint swatches I got from walmart and painted them each color to test against the unpainted hull and then took photos under a Daylight bulb.  Its a bit lighter which is a good thing because after weathering it's gonna be darker anyway.  You can see the results for yourself.

So I'm definitely going with Ivory... I went ahead and painted the top turret and placed it on the unpainted hull and you can definately see how nicely it looks!

Mental note to self... remember that not all lights are as cool as LED bulbs are now!

So here's the situation... Here I am happy as can be using my new spray booth and everything is going great... I get up from it for a moment and turn my back and all the sudden I hear CRASHHHHHHHHHH! The florescent light strip I was using in the hood I had attached with hot glue thinking it would be good enough to hold it with no problems seeing as its a florescent bulb... well I was wrong... it got hot enough to melt the glue and the whole think came crashing down... luckily the bulb didn't break. So I drilled a couple of holes in the top of the hood and reattached the lamp and now everything is right with the world again! I'm just glad that nothing was damaged (including none of the parts I was working on including some printed pieces!)

Just a few comments for you.

1. Nice job on the MacGyver like spray booth. It seems like it is low cost but very functional unit. Way to go...

2. Live and learn about the light. I am glad it didn't damage anything.

What happened to you sounds like my world.  Like the time that a leg gave out on my chair sending me to the floor.  Or, more recently... I was squeezing some putty out of a tube of plastic filler when I heard a POP! I'm thinking, what the heck was that? And why is there all this putty on my hand. Well, the back side of the tube burst sending putty all over me and on my work bench. It was quite the scene man.

Thanks for sharing..

Bakster

Leg gave out on my chair sending me to the floor.  Or, more recently... I was squeezing some putty out of a tube of plastic filler when I heard a POP! I'm thinking, what the heck was that? And why is there all this putty on my hand. Well, the back side of the tube burst sending putty all over me and on my work bench. It was quite the scene man.

Thanks bro... yeah... Murphy's Laws for Modeling kick in everyday!  Like, no matter how careful you are with the Superglue, you always end up getting it on your fingers.  Or no matter how careful you are in placing two peices together for gluing, or how many times your test fit something, once glue is applied it's always off!  Yeah... maybe we should come up with a list of Modeling Murphy's Laws! :)  I'm sure with all of us here we'd be able to come up with a pretty extensive list! :)

And so the painting begins!  I started with a good preshading of the lower hull.  I went a little heavy because I will be covering it with the base color coat afterward.

I gotta say... I really am loving my spray booth... works better then I expected it too!  After the preshading I covered it with a good light coating of my base color.  This serves two purposes... one the base coat since its a lacquer, will be easy to fix errors on, and two it acts as a great light barrier for the lights inside!  Here's the result using the Krylon Ivory paint/primer that I used from a rattle can.  The results are better than I expected!

The preshading is subtle but really makes the details pop!  Whatcha all think?

Oooooooo... almost got ahead of myself here.  Before I settled on this color, I sprayed the top turret to see how the colors would look.  I also did some light weathering to see if the color holds up under weathering.  Here's the result (before I painted the hull).