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Wax paper windows

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  • Member since
    August 2020
Wax paper windows
Posted by Hawkgrove on Sunday, August 23, 2020 10:15 PM

Recently retired and decided to start modeling again.  My son gave me the anniversary edition of the star ship Enterprise and then I got the bug and found the Klingon D7 and Romulan Bird of Prey.  I want to light them and have seen people drill out the windows then apply wax paper from the inside.  It looks like they then finish the build, putty, and paint but I've never read if they just paint over the windows when finishing the model or cover them somehow?  I know I've seen one build on the community here where they used wax paper on the Romulan BoP.  

Can anyone give me any feedback or follow-up on this technique?


  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: California Desert
Posted by vettecote on Sunday, October 18, 2020 9:12 AM
Sounds like a good idea! Surprised no-one has answered....Joe

People, their a menace to socity!

"I never met a model I didn't want to modify!"...Me

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Sunday, October 18, 2020 11:02 AM

Yeah, sorry Joe.

I believe you're refering to my BOP which I build around 4 years ago. I used wax paper as a difuser for the lighting since without it the light just beamed through the holes. The windows were so small that I didn't worry about the paint too much. Looks great when lit. Next time I'll use fiber optics but I didn't have the money at the time and was thinking of something that was inexpensive.


Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: Orlando, Florida
Posted by ikar01 on Thursday, October 22, 2020 4:00 PM

Hawkgrove, where are you located?  I have some old diffuser sheeting we used to use to shield our ceiling lights back when we used to work with film.  It's frosted so it will cut down the glare of the lights.  I have used it on my NX-01 Enterprise.  You will have to glye it down with superglue because it was rolled up aroung the lights so long it's permanently curved.  I also have some reddish/amber tinted material if you want it.

  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Friday, December 4, 2020 11:14 AM

Hi There!

     Don't laugh. Having built Many Model RailRoad cities for folks and working at a Rail Museum, I learned a trick years ago, to many to count, A method that works for me. I get thin sheets of Styrene plastic and Coat it with liquid glue, wait ten seconds and wipe it clean. It subsequently leaves a very softly tinted or frosted result. Then glue this in the window holes or behind them. 

      This is an old method from way back then, BUT, it still works today! The longer the glue stays on the deeper or thicker the frosted result is. It does diffuse light very well.

  • Member since
    January 2020
Posted by Space Ranger on Friday, December 4, 2020 12:17 PM

The plastic from an empty milk jug makes a good diffuser for lighting. Use superglue or epoxy to attach it.

  • Member since
    May 2020
  • From: North East of England
Posted by Hutch6390 on Friday, December 4, 2020 3:32 PM

That's a good tip!  I have a "RMS Titanic" kit, which includes LED lights for inside the hull, to illuminate the portholes.  I was worried about varying light levels i.e. bright near the LEDs and dimmer in between - this could be just what I need to even the light levels out - great idea, thanks!

Vell, Zaphod's just zis guy, you know?




  • Member since
    March 2018
  • From: Chicago suburbs
Posted by Luvspinball on Monday, December 7, 2020 1:25 PM

I use the clear gorilla glue to fill in porthole windows, but you need to lay her on her side.  put some plain old tape (masking, cellophane, what-ever) on the inside of the hull over the windows.  Using a bar straw or toothpick, fill the holes with the clear gorilla glue.  When it hardens (overnight), peel off the tape.  It does a good job of looking like glass and diffuses the light.

For the lower decks, don't forget to black out a few of the portals here and there for an authentic look. People did sleep (contrary to the movie, where they partied all night).



Bob Frysztak


Current builds:  Revell 1/96 USS Constitution with extensive scratch building

  • Member since
    May 2020
  • From: North East of England
Posted by Hutch6390 on Monday, December 7, 2020 2:09 PM

More good tips - thanks, TB, and Bob, but I won't be blacking out any portholes, this one is intended as an ornament more than a model, for my Dad's man cave (when I get it built!).

Vell, Zaphod's just zis guy, you know?





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