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Revell's Campbeltown - WIP

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  • Member since
    June 2008
Posted by Spotty on Monday, May 11, 2009 7:27 AM
 EdGrune wrote:

HMS Campbeltown from Iron Shipwright.

Wow. Its soooo different than the Revel version.

I kinda prefer the 4 stacks though. Looks more 'steamy' that way.

  • Member since
    January 2006
Posted by EPinniger on Monday, May 11, 2009 2:36 PM
 Spotty wrote:
 EdGrune wrote:

HMS Campbeltown from Iron Shipwright.

Wow. Its soooo different than the Revel version.

I kinda prefer the 4 stacks though. Looks more 'steamy' that way.

The ISW resin kit represents Campbeltown modified for the "Operation Chariot" raid on St. Nazaire docks, . But your old Revell kit is more or less accurate for USS Buchanan in pre-war USN service, or just after being transferred to the RN as HMS Campbeltown!

Your rust weathering is definitely effective and wouldn't be out of place on a "4-piper" in RN service as an Atlantic convoy escort, but a USN ship in 1940 would probably be quite well maintained, and rust (if any?) limited to light streaking around the anchor hawsepipe and maybe small patches at the waterline. A good way of weathering a ship model to give it more "life" without making it too rusty is to very lightly drybrush vertical streaks on the hull, in slightly lighter and/or darker shades of grey than the hull colour, particularly in areas like breakwaters and forecastle ends where water would be likely to run down. 

  • Member since
    June 2008
Posted by Spotty on Tuesday, May 12, 2009 6:06 AM

 EPinniger wrote:
.....A good way of weathering a ship model to give it more "life" without making it too rusty is to very lightly drybrush vertical streaks on the hull, in slightly lighter and/or darker shades of grey than the hull colour, particularly in areas like breakwaters and forecastle ends where water would be likely to run down. 

Good tip. Thankyou!

  • Member since
    June 2008
Posted by Spotty on Tuesday, May 26, 2009 6:24 PM

Getting there....

 

  • Member since
    August 2008
Posted by tankerbuilder on Tuesday, June 30, 2009 4:08 PM
 Alross ---- try this . take your kit and put it on the stand make sure it,s level fore to aft . Temporarily glue the stands on and let dry . Now that you have those pictures ,do this ,Find a block of wood and make sure it,s square ! Now put it against the hull at the bow . If it,s to high cut it down to allow a pencil or magic marker to fall EXACTLY point first on the line you need . Hold the ship steady and level and scribe the line from bow to stern moving smoothly . You will then have your line .After painting the red to this line then come back with a chisel point magic marker (permanant!) Redraw the line with the chisel point 1/16 " above and 1/32 below and the waterline is done . I have used magic marker permanent black for years now . You see when you build in wood you need this little marking pencil and block . You can use LEGO blocks for your block and the marker or pencil will snuggle down between the locking nubs !!!! Give her a try  ok ??? tankerbuilder
  • Member since
    May 2018
Posted by Richwood7 on Saturday, July 21, 2018 9:32 AM

There is a site on the internet that shows the pre- and post- configurations only the starboard side is shown.  The site contains several photos too.  I do not recall what the site is but I found it fairly quickly so it must not be hard to find.  The bow railings are removed and two sets of armour plating on the deck (photos show) were installed.  One picture from the bow gives a fairly good idea of how the bow looked after the conversion.  Looks like the fourth funnel was left about one foot or two feet high and the third was capped at about 8 foot (looks about one foot higher than the superstructure right in front of it.  The two front funnels were raked but when I read that I thought they meant that  the whole stack but they remain the same rake but the tops have been sloped bow-to-stern at about ohh, say a 30% rake.   4 20mm guns were added amidship.  Mast were just one left and short, rigging way reduced.  I assume no torpedo tubes.  When the kit arrives I thought I would give a try at making the conversion.

 

Additional info:  I was looking for anything on the HMS Campbeltown on Taobao (the Chinese Amazon) and came acroos a 1/700 kit (probably available elsewhere but I am in China) and the instructions appeared to match very losely to the pictures and schematics that I saw and mentionned in my post above.  May not be perfect but maybe it will go a long way to helping convert the 1:240 kit into the actual raider which I have on order too.

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