Revell 1/72 scale Gato-class submarine

Grouper,SS214 - my 2nd Dad served aboard as a young Lt in 1957. She was "average in WWII, much liek the U557 I built of Type VIIC. I wanted bookend companion boats, and that match well. Means Measure 9 all black, a fairly darka nd dull scheme, esp for a display model, but more authentic. I hope to get some good weathering in.

I just discovered, thanks to Robert Morgan, that the very early EB Gatos (esp 214) had very cincave shutters, what I term "valey" - so my Mid Gato set will not do. I'm already working on balao shutters for sale, will also move to Valley.

Doesn't make any sense on their part since almost no one posts there anymore,only one build in the last few months, most builds are posted in the general or static sections. 

Most builds are just U-Boats and Nucs

Sub Pirates started doing that till almost the whole site was private. 

Glad to hear your filling the niche on more AM parts.

What boat are you planning to build?

Eric... 

Well that's odd re: Subcommittee. That sounds likehuge bad decision on their part.

Stern shutters - it seems EBs didn't have any, tho Post war I think all boatsdid. Working on the other shutters, the early scoopy, especially because I need a set for my boat!

Well it appears that Sub Committee has decided that you have to pay to view the Fleetboat section of the forum which is odd since it's been pretty dead in that section for months.

Eric... 

Like everything else the details depend on what yard built them and what modifications where introduced during construction series.

As the war went on improvments where made, somtimes at construction mostly at refits.

Some where even refit and modified right after launch.

Check to see what yard your boat was built in and what type of doors it had, some had long scooped areas, some mid range and some where flat.

Rokket put's out some nice doors but they may not be the type your boat carries, hopefully he'll produce the diffirent variants.

Also not all boats had stern shutters so keep an eye on that as well.

Eric... 

No worriessubfixer!

The tube, torp nose, and outer door will be a set, but they might bemultiples to a set depends on cost and interest. Right now tube and torp are machines, still working on outer door.

6 at front (but probably not many will want all open) and 4 at back, makes a split difficult. Will keep you posted.

rokket wrote:

AMP have some new resin torpedo shutters just available: http://amp.rokket.biz/1_72_gato_sets.shtml  They are "mid range" Gato. Almost done with masters for "late Gato/Balao" flat-angled, and might release very early long scoopy shutters if enough interest.

I wasn't aware that the kit doors were wrong, but now that I see the difference, it is really obvious. Thanks a lot, rokket, now I'm going to have to spend $10 on a resin set and no telling how much  for the torpedo tube.

I've seen many people using wire for the stanchions and cables.

Eric... 

AMP have some new resin torpedo shutters just available: http://amp.rokket.biz/1_72_gato_sets.shtml

 They are "mid range" Gato. Almost done with masters for "late Gato/Balao" flat-angled, and might release very early long scoopy shutters if enough interest.

The Outboard Fittings General Arrangement Bu-SS212-62/7 print showing top and starboard side is just 5/16" short of the model length.

So over all with that, the correct placements for side exhaust openings, forward torpedo loading hatch, 20" motor boat hatch cover and a few other details can easily be placed on the model for boats falling with block numbers SS222-227  SS240-252.

It's more of the major fittings none of the smaller details like lockers and air fittings, etc.

This is the Revell 52" model with print.

Eric... 

Eric,

That's great info. Thanks for posting the links.

 Regards,

There is lot's of info out there.

I'm still searching that's why it's taken me almost 2 years before starting. 

I'm waiting for some blueprints from Floating Drydock as well as a picture disk.

Need the prints to make the bottom openings accurate, that's why I'm working on the fairwater first.

Places to look

NavSource 

ShipCamoflage 

Some Color movies of the Bowfin in action

Fleet Submarine 

The Fleet Type Submarine, Navpers 16160, is the first in a series of submarine training manuals that was completed just after WW II. The series describes the peak of WW II US submarine technology.

2007 Drydocking of the USS Pampanito  (Balao Class)

Pix of the Lionfish (Balao Class) 

Submarinemuseums Lots of links to assorted pictures. 

pigboats 

For model accessories there are most of the aftermarket parts listed under the model on Squadron  including Edward, White Ensign PE and Resin parts.

For figures there are Czech Masters, Warriors and some German made (forgot the name)

Aftermarket parts like Fairwaters and deck guns from Nautilus  and Iron Bottom Sound

The IBS stuff looks really rough and as I mentioned earlier their Marker Buoy is not very good so who knows how accurate the other parts are. 

I've actually seen both guys get into a flame war on another forum.

Nautilus does have laser cut wood decks for some of their conversions. 

Anyway that should keep you busy for a while.

PM sent MD-M

Eric... 

Just wanted to thank everyone. I'm new to this Forum and I can't believe how much information that I now have which will help in building my Gato-class submarine. I really appreciate all the help. You all are great.

Eric - I am very interested in the brass sonar heads.

Now MD-M was WALL-E

Tracy White wrote:

There is a slight but persistant warp to the hull halves... I've heard of guys zip-tying them together while glueing to get a good joint without having to go crazy holding it together while it dries. I posted this document to my site which is  more detailed than the kit painting instructions.... you get to decide if that's a good or bad thing ;)

It is most definetly a "good" thing, thanks Tracy. If, for nothing else, it is a nice little bit of history. I would never have known to paint the counter shading tones under the platforms. I'm glad I've held off building this monster. Again, many thanks.

A sharp pin and a circle templete, I placed the template on the plastic and scribed it with the pin.

Tried it on sheet brass but it was taking to long. 

Aside from making the rings and doing a test for the framing on the marker I haven't gone as far as to make one yet.

That will happen once I start on the main hull.

Eric.. 

Eric,

Out of curiosity, how did you cut those rings for the marker Buoys?

Wall-E, if you need any drawings, let me know. << mkeatingss(AT)cox.net >> I might be able to help. However, everything I have, is on Portsmouth Boats.

Mike K.

I've been working on the fairwater on mine cutting it down and started on the PE sheers, made a mistake on those and had to take them apart which is just as well since I need to modify them a bit to be correct for my boat.

I also removed most of the storage canisters and filled in the mount points for the propeller guards since my boat didn't have them. 

My hull didn't have any warping, so I'm fortunate there.

Keep in mind that the model depicts a post war boat so the marker buoys are the wrong shape and wrong position.

Don't bother with the ISB markers they are wrong, the details are soft, incorrect an the railing on the edge should be done in PE.

I actually did a test in sheet brass that seemed to work but I bent it to much and broke it.

The Edward PE deck set has the same problem with the post war buoy covers.

If your doing an all wood deck than fixing it won't be a problem.

The model is also missing the exhaust openings and flood openings on the bottom.

Those will vary depending on yard and series in the production.

limber holes on the sides will differ depending on the yard, production series and mods made during refits, fairwater and deck details will vary as well.

No 2 subs where alike. 

You might want to have a look in the Fleetboat Dock section on the SubCommittee forum and also the AMP forum for info on the boats.

On a side note, for those intrested I have some Sonar Heads for sale, Solid Brass.

Eric... 

Tracey,

Thanks for the link.

Here's a tip from one of the fluid dynamics geeks (wing nut). Glue little tabs every inch or so all the way around one half that stick out. That solves alignment.

Start at one end and glue 6" at a time, splitting the hulls with a twist on a #11 a little downhill from the joint. Go in stages. That minimizes clamping, although some of my best friends are Clampers.

Align on top and suffer the consequences down at the keel. No ones gonna see it unless you are competing.

There is a slight but persistant warp to the hull halves... I've heard of guys zip-tying them together while glueing to get a good joint without having to go crazy holding it together while it dries.

I posted this document to my site which is  more detailed than the kit painting instructions.... you get to decide if that's a good or bad thing ;)

Haven't decided for sure yet. I am looking forward to getting started on the project. Did you run into any problems when building yours?

Any thought on which boat your going to build it as?

I just started mine on the 4th, building her as the USS Bream SS 243.  EB ship yard, late war with cut down fairwater.

Eric... 

After reading your reply, I made a call to the Hobby Lobby that is not too far away and they have it! Great advise, I really do appreciate it.

Thank You

Shop around a bit, I've seen it for about $20 less.

Eric...