1/700 Dragon USS Chancellorsville CG 62

It looks amazing. Good choice on using the plastic masts. I think they look just right to be in that scale.

Damn, that is a thing of beauty!

Brian

Mike,

Very nice model - thanks for sharing!  I'm curious about the base for the model.  Did you do it yourself?  Can you describe how it's done?

Thanks, Rick

Thanks everyone for the kind comments.

Rick,  the base is just an unfinished black base of a Trumpeter display case.  I just wiped it down with some alcohol before taking the photos.   I do all my ships that way, build them as waterline hulls and mount them to a black base.

I've tried coating the bases with Future, or painting them, but often just leaving well enough alone seems to work fine too.  I don't think I'd do a modeled seaway very well and since I'm not doing a diorama type of thing, I think simple is better.  Its my view that poorly done water will hurt a good model and well done water will draw attention away from it.  I might try it one day though.

Mike

Magic stuff, Mike!

Very nicely done! You are right, the Dragon premium ship kits have a very small (and incomplete) PE fret... but you cant argue with the price. I was doing the Samuel adams and had to box it for awhile, fit issues galore...

Nice effect on the helo pad; did you add PE nets?

thanks for sharing, cheers

Thanks JMart.

The PE nets on the helo pad are from the GM set.  I scratch built, if you could call it that, the RAST tracks with some scored strip pieces.

Mike

RTimmer

I'm curious about the base for the model.  Did you do it yourself?  Can you describe how it's done?

and Mike responded ...

Mike F6F

 the base is just an unfinished black base of a Trumpeter display case.  I just wiped it down with some alcohol before taking the photos.   I do all my ships that way, build them as waterline hulls and mount them to a black base.

For those who may have access to woodworking tools & material something which I've done ... a black lacquer base.   When finished it will have a smooth high-luster sheen like Japanese lacquerwear.   Bur be warned,  it is not something which is just thrown together at the end for the model to sit on.    It can take days to complete.  

Start with a piece of  medium density fiberboard (MDF) cut to your desired base dimension.   You may choose a wood such as poplar or bass but avoid something with an open  end-grain like pine.   End-grain is harder to get to come out smooth & even.   Use a router to cut a decorative edge around the base.  Using fine grit sandpaper give it an overall light sanding.  Use a tack rag to remove the sanding dust.   Spray a light coat of rattlecan of gloss black spray lacquer (hardware store item) overall.   Lacquer dries quickly,  in 15 - 30 minutes you can sand it again.   Sand using the same fine grit paper and wipe with a tack rag.   Spray another light coat and sand again moving to a finer grit paper.    Spray, sand, tack rag, repeat.   Every two or three coats move to a progressively finer sand paper.     (I've found down to 32000 at the local wood working store).   it will take 8 to 10 coats (or more) and you will obtain a glossy black base which you can see your reflection.

What a great model! You showed some real attention to detail. I should know, I was actually stationed on this very ship for 3 years. It makes me feel like I am right back on her. I have purchased this very model and it is next on my list to make. Any suggestions? I am really going to try and emulate the look you have here but, my modeling skills might not be as good as yours. I am curious as to how you got the non-skid look and texture on the decks? What colors did you use on the hull, deck, and pretty much throughout? I love the rust and weather effects you did on the ship as well. Overall, a fantastic job. Seriously, from a sailor who served on this ship, I love it!

One more thing, I hate to be the bearer of bad news but, the only thing I can see that you missed, or the makers of the model I should say, is the LSO shack located on the helo deck. This is where they talk to and signal the helo during take-off and landing. It is located on all of t he Tico class ships.

Hello Dave.

Thanks for you comments about my CG 62.  You are correct about the LSO shack being not included in the kit.  I tried to scratch build something, but just couldn't get to work out correctly.

The hull was painted with the discontinued MM Acryl Standard Navy Gray paint.  I've found that Gunship Gray makes an excellant scale color for non skid deck surfaces.  I will mix in some light gray, or dry brush it to give it some weathering.  The rust color on the helo deck starts with an earth brown color and I just vary it untill I get the look I want.

Since the Navy Visual News site offers excellant photos of just about any current ship, I usually pick a given shot or two and try to match the look.

Thanks again for you kind comments.  When you get positive feedback from a crew member, it is high praise indeed.

Very nice, clean, crisp build    And I would agree with you that sometimes, a plain black base is the best thing, and it seems to work best with warships, since there is so much more to look at on then, as opposed to, say, the usual WW II auxiliary that is my field of interest.