Tamiya Big-E - USS Enterprise 1/350

You ever thought of just using post it notes to fix overspray just stick it on your stencil and then spray your deck color to fix your little mistake.

A.M.Jorge

Hi. I'm sorry about delay.

White is usually a color that requires some care not to to stay with colors of the base on which is painted. At the most, just use the airbrush. I made a mistake that will cost me more time: I forgot to cover the deck area which was splattered with white. It's almost imperceptible, but it gets ugly.


Material.

The airstrip.

 

"65."

The spray of white on the deck gray. I'll have to retouch.

any updates?

Sorry, guys, a lot of job to do.

No enought time to work on Big E.

I will try, at least, remove the tapes and post pictures.

Hio guys, I'm here, but not new yet. Still a lot of work to do.

Dear friends,

I was wondering, the deck is a little bluish. I'm thinking about remove this grey tone and use black instead.

Regards.

A.M.Jorge

Dear friends,

I was wondering, the deck is a little bluish. I'm thinking about remove this grey tone and use black instead.

Regards.

Try Tamiya Nato Black or White Ensign Flight deck grey.

Thanks.

I just bought the Tamiya XF-69 NATO black.

While I wait for her arrival, I remove paint from the deck using ethyl alcohol.

Any suggestions?

Thank you.

What did you paint the deck with in the first place Enamel or acrylic?

Hi. I used tamiya acrylic.

Well I hope you didn't strip the deck yet as you can paint over the German Gray with the Nato Black. Stripping is a bit time consuming and there is always the chance of goofing up the paint job on the hull if your not careful.

A.M.Jorge

I just bought the Tamiya XF-69 NATO black.

While I wait for her arrival, I remove paint from the deck using ethyl alcohol.

Any suggestions?

Thank you.

Dear friends,

I'm still on the rush, but at least we have removed the masking tape. I'm wanting to redo the painting for several reasons: it was a bit thick, it is with some risks, I still can not decide whether the color is similar, and, anyway, I'll have to redo because of spray of white paint that has tainted the entire deck.

The white markings also were a little thick, and when removing the tape, they fouled the dark a bit. It would be easier if all the paint used was gloss, but still have a lot of flat paint.

Let's remove the tapes:

See some defects: the most serious is the part that was not masked became whiter.

Top view:

Some defects in the marking of "65" beyond the paint is too thick.

Does it snowed on the left?

Ok A.M.jorge your first problem is that you didn't mask past where you painted a simple solution is to tape sheets of paper towel to the edges of your paint masks. same goes for the masking tape stencil for the number 65 . Just paint over it with the Nato black and you should be fine and also when doing the stencils for the lines and the number 65 use light coats of paint as it looks like you used a heavy coat on the number 65.

BTW the center line on a aircraft carrier is white and yellow.

A.M.Jorge

Dear friends,

I'm still on the rush, but at least we have removed the masking tape. I'm wanting to redo the painting for several reasons: it was a bit thick, it is with some risks, I still can not decide whether the color is similar, and, anyway, I'll have to redo because of spray of white paint that has tainted the entire deck.

The white markings also were a little thick, and when removing the tape, they fouled the dark a bit. It would be easier if all the paint used was gloss, but still have a lot of flat paint.

Let's remove the tapes:

See some defects: the most serious is the part that was not masked became whiter.

Top view:

Some defects in the marking of "65" beyond the paint is too thick.

Does it snowed on the left?

See next post.

Dear friends,

Today I did something never done before: remove the painting. The paint was too thick and the color was not pleasing, so I removed to redo using NATO Black. The process was easier than I imagined. The paint I used was Tamiya acrylic. Regular cleaning alcohol was enough and lots of towel paper. I believe that I have removed the equivalent of 8 ml bottle.

Starting work.

Ten minutes later ...

Twenty minutes later most of the paint has been removed, we now have to be careful with the corners.

Half an hour later, the surface is ready to receive new paint.

Seeing more closely, it seems that was applied a giant wash.

More details.

It is important to avoid the accumulation of paint to prevent future defects. In my opinion it is not necessary to be 100% clean, but surface must be leveled. Despite the care I had to fix some details.

Ready for another paint coat.

Highly flammable material. Soak in water before throwing in the trash.

"BTW the center line on a aircraft carrier is white and yellow."

OK, I will do it.

I've started the hull painting. I found some imperfections as pics shows. However, I'm doing some mistake. The paint is still thick and not smooth.

The pics:

Today, the paint dryed and I removed the masks. The water line was well defined and the bottom of the hull is still great looking. However, as already said, the gray part is rough. Thanks to a fellow model, used toilet paper to smooth it. And it worked fine! Just move gently, without force, to not harm the paint. Only one drawback: paper dust spread throughout the model, requiring a subsequent cleaning. Now I only need to hit a few details, but in overall it was good. I'll have to touch up a few more horizontal surfaces, dark gray.


By removing the tape, we see that the painting was good, not blurred, although some details to settle. The shading was a bit dark and had to cover more clear-ink. In a next time, it is best to use a gray instead of black.






Work of "sanding" with toilet paper.

Wow  Jorge,really coming together now,looking good.

Dear friends,

Today I removed the masking tapes that were there for almost one year. A lot of painting strips, but easily correctible.

A lot of job to do and time is becoming very short to modeling.

Regards.

.

Jorge,

Don't get discouraged!  We all encounter some difficulties when modeling difficult projects.  You are doing a terrific job!

Bill

your BigE is looking great. also today is BigE's 50th birthday.

The Mobile Chernobyl (also known as the Enterprise) was planned to deploy just one more time prior to her decommissionig in 2013, but it looks like they may squeeze an additional one in after that. She is like the Energizer Bunny.

How many times did she almost melt down?

subfixer

The Mobile Chernobyl (also known as the Enterprise) was planned to deploy just one more time prior to her decommissionig in 2013, but it looks like they may squeeze an additional one in after that. She is like the Energizer Bunny.

Mikeym_us

How many times did she almost melt down?

subfixer:

The Mobile Chernobyl (also known as the Enterprise) was planned to deploy just one more time prior to her decommissionig in 2013, but it looks like they may squeeze an additional one in after that. She is like the Energizer Bunny.

 

Never!   But with eight 1950s era reactors and all of the peripheral components associated with them, maintenance is difficult. That nickname is an inside joke among us who are involved with keeping her in good working order.

Dear friends,

Sorry about the delay, but time is still short.

Regards.

Today I done two basic tasks, first I painted the PEs trees using the hull color.

Second, I retouched some "hull color" areas. This ones were "sanded" using toilet paper.

Painting the PEs:

Before:




After:



Hull color retouches: good after paint dries.

The last task before paint the flight deck again, I must paint the catwalk using hull color at "walls" and dark grey over the bottom. Is there an easiest way to do this  ?

Masking ...:


First step is done after more than half hour:



Results after a careful airbrush work:


And after the brush work:

Dear friends, I decided to start the bridge. I intend to do the basic structure first, and only at the end paste the PEs. Actually it is very difficult to do any assembly without damaging an PE.

Starting the bridge:

You have to look at the manual of the kit and the PEs. In this piece, let's remove a fire hose reel of the bridge.

Just as a test, we will build the stairs and railings in PE. Following the instructions, it is quite easy:

And the result is good, because the fit is very precise:




After an hour ...

Well I noticed with that molded on hose reel you could have made a scratch built reel using the molded on holder minus the molded on reel in the center and just simply substituting a smaller diameter rod as the core of the reel(the bulk is actually made up of the hose itself). Just use a razor saw to slice up the center reel then use a knife to clean it up and then sand it to smooth it out then take your plastic rod (diameter is up to you the builder) and get some tape and cut that into narrow strips the same width (The tape will stand in for flattened fire hose). Take the tape strips and wrap it around the rod till you get a good layer of tape that will at minimum be 2 layers thick  at maximum 4 layers thick. Paint the roll of tape strips white then once dry you could do a wash of black to highlight the edges of the hoses. Paint the reel holders and bulkhead desired color install the finished reel in the center of the holder to maintain a gap between the reel and the bulkhead and behold you have a realistic firehose reel.

BTW I have never done this myself but somehow the idea for this somehow popped into my head a few seconds ago.

A.M.Jorge

Dear friends, I decided to start the bridge. I intend to do the basic structure first, and only at the end paste the PEs. Actually it is very difficult to do any assembly without damaging an PE.

Starting the bridge:

You have to look at the manual of the kit and the PEs. In this piece, let's remove a fire hose reel of the bridge.

Just as a test, we will build the stairs and railings in PE. Following the instructions, it is quite easy:

And the result is good, because the fit is very precise:




After an hour ...