HMS Victorious

As You have bought this DVD, You can make a backup copy of this DVD (only for your purposes, of course) without a setting DVD region (region free DVD).

As I understand practice makes perfect...  I was wondering if anyone or everyone could guide me in time of need with this build.  Im looking to become a better modeler,  having said that,  my last build went into the trash before it was finished.  The rattle can had its own paint scheme and texture in mind.  Anyhow, I just started and felt I already screwed this one up as shown below. 

I finish sanding the hulls and am trying to align them, I ended up sanding the alignment pins off because the alignment was less then desirable.

Using testors pink liquid I used the touch n flow style into capilary action, after a few secs, I pressed slightly to allow the loose styrene to raise for sanding polishing an already filled gap.  I am gluing approximatley one inch at a time and allowing an overnight dry time.

It left pin hole here

With a gap on the other side after drying I tried more cement to possibly soften the styrene to fill in...see the circle on the end....it didnt happen.  Just melted the plastic, I hoping to sand out.

I would really appriciate any guidance.  Thanks for any replies.  Happy building.

i'm building that same model off & on thw past several months. your plastic appears to be the soft easy to carve type wereas mine is the darker gray harder to carve to fix mistakes. in the top picture, is that a gap between tape 2 & 3? as it appears in top picture towards the stern that some parts of the seam aligns good but other parts don't which is not your fault. i would use a sharp blade to level out the seams then sand it flush. you have to remember that this mold is about 50+ years old so any models coming out of it will not be in pristine shape as when the mold was new. on the problem with the stern overhang is to slit the joint from the very end to the line that joins the 2 openings, sand the joint sides, reglue it then tape\clamp that end together so the gap hopefully disappears.

Have you tried putty? I'd try some squadron green, or such. Not Testors tho. And I'm not a fan of using superglue to fill stuff either because you have to have the timing just right or it goes too hard on you.

That's just not a good model to begin with, so don't beat yourself up trying to make it perfect. All those sguares of raised plating look kind of bogus too. If you are worried about sanding them off near your surgery, don't be. The whole hull should be sanded smooth once you get it put together. At 1/600 you can most easily achieve a plated effect with masking, even with rattle cans.

ddp59

i'm building that same model off & on thw past several months. your plastic appears to be the soft easy to carve type wereas mine is the darker gray harder to carve to fix mistakes. in the top picture, is that a gap between tape 2 & 3?

Sorry for the late reply.  No its not a gap.  Im glueing approximately one inch a day,  That part is yet to be glue an is not aligned causing a shadow in the light.  Thanks for the tips, I will keep work posted.

bondoman

Have you tried putty? I'd try some squadron green, or such. Not Testors tho. And I'm not a fan of using superglue to fill stuff either because you have to have the timing just right or it goes too hard on you.

That's just not a good model to begin with, so don't beat yourself up trying to make it perfect. All those sguares of raised plating look kind of bogus too. If you are worried about sanding them off near your surgery, don't be. The whole hull should be sanded smooth once you get it put together. At 1/600 you can most easily achieve a plated effect with masking, even with rattle cans.

I have not used putty yet causing only part of the halves a are glued.  So I am to sand the plates off?  I will post what happens.  Thanks for the reply. 

Thank you for the help! 

You will find the disc plays in your computer.

Google changing regions of DVD players, there is a code that can be transmitted via the remote to change the DVD player to all regions.

Check my home page for Victorious pictures.

Ride safe

Barry

http://www.barrylockyer.com/

Finally finished glueing the bottom hull.  Took about a week doing one inch at a time.

I tried hard to make the seam decent, most of it was I think.

But one part I couldn't close.....I think it was the model....

From the side none of the sprue sticks up, its all flat.

Next Im gonna polish the seam and find a way to hold the rudder together while glueing, can I use superglue?  I cant seam to get a clam on it in such a way to apply glue at the same time. 

I ordered squadron green putty....should I putty the seam before I sand it?  Kinda seems like common sense.  While sanding I'm gonna sand these plates away as advised earlier.  Should I also sand these lines and little squares away?

Thanks for the replies and any help. 

Things are looking very good there. When you putty the seam after assembly, start by masking the area so that the amount of putty you get spread around is limited to 1/16" or so each side of the seam. I pop the tape off pretty quick before the putty sets- you can practice a little. This will greatly improve your results without big putty fillets to sand down.

WIP update, there is a few pics cause I havent been able to post, I tried to keep the images to a decent amount.  So I glued the bottom and finally found a way to glue the back part and hold it together.

I have walmart bondo that Ive bought but never used...but I dont think Im gonna use it even though it may work, so I ordered squadron green and some other supplies.  While waiting for shipment I went ahead and tried to complete parts of the ship ahead of the step I'm on.  I started/ removed the super structure.  As you can see the manufacturer went ahead and added some extra detail that I'm gonna have to remove with sanding or primeing or both.

After a detailed sanding I dry fit the super structure and find a gap...Next im cutting off the alignment pins cause sanding them down got closer but for a no gap they can not stay.

Next the top of the superstructure.  Removed from sprue tree and sanded Im gonna have to wait for the putty for the ejector pins marks?

Dry fitting the parts I could not once again get the surperstructure to close with the top of the structure installed..I may need sheet styrene or heavy sanding but Im afraid of losing the 1/600 scale..

I dint know what to do here (beginner) so I'm gonna wait a for a reply for awhile at least.  One other question, see the eight squares...

I'm using the book Anatomy of a ship

And I dont see the squares on the super structure..

In the book there are build drawings which show the squares..

Thanks for looking and any replies! I need the help!

 Nice attention to detail. Great start!

                    -60

Check the photograph of the Starboard side at my web site.

http://www.barrylockyer.com/

Thanks for the replies! Excellent picture, maybe its a variation detail.  The ship was refitting/overhaul a few times.

I served on her for three years from 1957 to 1960, though she went in for minor refits her appearance never altered from the refit she did from 1951 to 1958.

I have removed the seam line (two minor parts still WIP).

Before I finish I have a question which is:  The armor plating shown here.

I am getting ready to sand it away while I finish the seam at the same time.  Before I do can any link me a subject on how in place more realistic armor plating?  If not I'm gonna have to leave it.    I was hoping for a more realistic appearance. Thank you for replies! 

Thanks limey for your input as well!  

Bondoman!: I just reread the thread and see you have suggested masking.  If I cannot find a 3D version of the plating I will definatly take your advise into consideration.  Thanks for your input!

delete those lines as you shouldn't be able to see them at that scale. if they are .5mm in height then in real life they would be 30cm which they are not. seams can be replicated with masking tape & paint.

Hey girls and guys,  I got some time to finish my boat after a short break.....  two years lol 

I still request guidance from the experience ... and non experienced modelers during the build.

I will be keeping an eye on the rest of this build. I might pick up a few tips myself.

Im trying to get rid of these gaps that I have filled in with stretch sprue, super glue, and putty.

But my diamond files are not working like the emery boards do.  What are diamond files for?  Photoetch?  Kinda sucks cause the files are smaller to get hard to reach places.  Of coarse I could always cut sand paper and use a small stick but its not the same.

Question...  gap filling.  The a small hole to the left which I filled with super glue.  The darker gray to the right is stretch sprue.  The sprue is flat on the left and concave on the right.  Do I filled it with super glue or use squadron green? 

The gaps I filled, am filling with walmart super glue and sanding.  The super glue is pretty thick.

The fourth gap under the rail is also another concern.  How do I fill it?  I would guess fill it and sand square?

Thanks for any replies ahead of time. =]

P.S.  I used Tenax 7R and testor liquid cement per touch and capilation so the sprue would melt together, the sprue is some spots did not come together even when going one inch at a time. *sigh* gaps...

Looks like you are doing a very nice job on this one.....Cheers Mark

While waiting for the gaps to dry I going to attempt performed more work on the tower/bridge.

I glued only the front and rear of the super structure.  This is why...

When one piece is installed it splits the structure pretty wide, and theres a huge hole at the bottom right behind the piece I installed.

I am going to sand off at least one of these tabs and refit, but wow thats alot of space to fill.

Well this sucks... it appears I am missing a whole set of windows in front of R38.

Well...where can I get super structures?  Scratch build I guess....

I cut off the tabs on the top part but it over hangs a bit, so I have alot more trimming to do.  

I may have jump the gun.  I think this piece with an ejector pin mark is supposed to be the windows I was missing.  Its smooth and there is no windows on it.  At least thats what the instructions say.

I just checked mine, which is still on the sprue. That is part 53 and is indeed the part in question. Strange that it has no windows when the rest of the bridge area does.

I cant get the top of the super structure to fit for anything.  The bottom is too small.

I even sanded off the back to get it to fit.

It doesnt even fit where it supposed to on the top of the deck.

Sooo,  I unwelded it...

I gonna ordered some sheet styrene and place it in between to widen the super structure to the correct wide.  Wish I had known before I glued.  Measure twice, cut once. 

Thanks for the guidance, I will definitely need more.  I had already bought White Ensign stuff...

Its rails and ladders and pretty much everything.  Never used PE before...should be interesting..  Thinking about getting more ladders for the window idea.  Thanks for the help.  =]

Got to lve old Airfix kits. Is that PE set for this kit, or is it a more general set.

I am very interested in this build!  You are doing a good job!

As for that wide gap . . . have you considered filling it with plastic strip instead of putty? It would be a lot easier.  Also, the missing row of windows might be easily replicated by using photoetch railings cut to size.

Bill

I got a little build time in since my order of stuff that I needed arrived.  My last post show the superstructure was a little small for the position it was to be in.  I cut it apart as I had already glued it together.  Then I glued both sides to sheet styrene .060.

After letting it dry over night the real work began.  Actually it was harder to choose my weapon of destruction than to actually do it.   ;)

Test fit is alot better than it was.

I am off to the bench, will post more maybe. 

Bish - One of the PE set is for the made for the Victorious but also has parts for other ships and one is for Airfix 1/600 ships.

Thats some set of tools for such a little model lol. Looks like i have a bit of a challenge on my hands.

Thanks for the close ups of the PE. I think i will get those in Jan.