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Revell 1/96 USS Constitution

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  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: Formerly Bryan, now Arlington, Texas
Posted by CapnMac82 on Monday, August 15, 2011 3:26 PM

Well, I never managed to bend the lower or top masts, or their yards.

Topgallants and above, I'm not sure that it might not be easier to set up RTV moulds to the kit parts and cast them with steel or brass rod for the cores.

Worst parts for breakage (as I remember it) were the pole mast above the 'flying' royals, the 'flying' jib boom, and every stunsail part bar none.

Were I doing an OOB, I'd leave off topgallants and royals and the flying jib boom, and all the stun'sail parts, and rig everything else first.

Mind you, Connie was the first kit i tried rigging "backwards"--that is starting from belaying pin to the other termination.  This tends to take excess pressure out of the process, and also keeps ham-sized mitts out of spaces crowded with breakable bits.  not perfect, not imperfect, either--just something I do/did.

  • Member since
    September 2010
Posted by Chucker on Monday, August 15, 2011 3:44 PM

Boy, do I have some ship vernacular to learn. I will by the time I complete this.

  • Member since
    August 2010
  • From: Heart of the Ozarks, Mansfield, MO (AKA, the 3rd world)
Posted by Rich on Monday, August 15, 2011 5:21 PM

You have Capt Mac's reply which is far more sophisticated and detailed than anything I would come up with. I just replaced all the spars 1/8" or less with dowels, which I tapered by hand. I didn't replace the plastic ratlines. I installed LED oil lanterns on the fighting tops and mast bases, so I used the hollow plastic masts to carry the wiring.

The other parts I replaced: The plastic dolphin striker, with dowels, the forecastle & quarterdeck plastic stanchions and amidship rails with formed copper wire, and the gun barrels with blackened brass. 

Everything else was as supplied.

Rich

Nautical Society of Oregon Model Shipwrights

Portland Model Power Boat Association

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Groton, CT
Posted by warshipguy on Monday, August 15, 2011 7:27 PM

Ditto to both Cap'n Mac's and Rich's responses.

Bill

  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: Formerly Bryan, now Arlington, Texas
Posted by CapnMac82 on Tuesday, August 16, 2011 1:56 PM

You had asked about "pdr" (either here or the other thread).

That is an abbreviation for "pounder" which is a reference to the shot size used by a given cannon.  It's also a "left handed" way of referring to bore size as well, since a given number of pounds of iron must needs be a given diameter in spherical form.

24pdr fired a 24 pound shot, a bit bigger than 4" in diameter.  Want to remember that took 5-6# of powder, and the carriage and gun runs to about 2000#.

  • Member since
    September 2010
Posted by Chucker on Tuesday, August 16, 2011 1:59 PM

OK, thaks again CapnMac.

Chuck

pcp
  • Member since
    June 2012
Posted by pcp on Thursday, June 21, 2012 2:50 PM

Hi. I,m 75 and also have type 2 diabetes. Right now I am finishing the Trumpeter 1/200 Uss Ariazona and have the Revell 1/96 Connie as well as the Billings Boat plank on frame Cutty Sark in the process of rigging. I am sure I will get them finished and have plans to start a 1/48 B17g, a 1/48 P51, and a 1/48 0s2u Kingfisher. Beyond that who knows!. I have built numerous HO scale buildings and cars but never had room for a layout..

  • Member since
    September 2010
Posted by Chucker on Thursday, June 21, 2012 3:19 PM

Please show us some of your work.

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