progress on my 1/96 Connie

However you feel about the job you've done on the ship, I can see the amount of work you put into the kit and you should not be shy about placing it on display at your home after completion.

The only real problem will be protecting the model from dust.

Nice job on persevering with a difficult build !

Please keep us posted on your work.

Mike, that is a fabulous build. I have already given up on ever taking my Heller 1/100 Victory beyond lower masts in a kind of dockyard scene. And that will be a year behind schedule.

Really a marvelous model. The natural top masts look superb.

The Revell figures are a highlight of the kit. I have tried to find out their genesis, but they, along with the figures on the other big ships and the Morgan, were created by a real sculptor who made little works of art.

The kneeling figure with the hat and lanyard....

JCTIFA!

That's about all I can post of my initial comment.

Looks great to me!  I have barely started on mine, hope it turns out as good.

Bondoman, Sprue-ce Goose, TD4438, and MSqtMJ62:

Thanks for the kind words. I AM proud of the fact that I've stuck to it all these 10 months and am determined to finish her even with her flaws. My main problem in a month +/- (when I'm finished with her) will be where to display her in my condo. I am single now and don't know many people in Oregon yet. (I moved here last September from 38 years in southern California).

I'll figure it out - maybe a wall mounted display? I can't afford the enormous prices charged for ready-made display cases and only have one or two possible spots for it.

I strung the braces to the mizzen royal yard this morning. It's CROWDED in there!! Just three more yards to go   (mizzen top gallant, topsail, and crossjack). Then the last three boats and the figures.

Mike S.

I was going to post different views of my build showing both the errors and the work on the rigging to better effect but my pictures didn't show up. I double checked the URL's and re-pasted them but to no avail. I'll try again when I've done a bit more work on her.

Mike S.

 OK, here's one more try:

1943Mike

for the kind words. I AM proud of the fact that I've stuck to it all these 10 months and am determined to finish her even with her flaws. My main problem in a month +/- (when I'm finished with her) will be where to display her in my condo. I am single now and don't know many people in Oregon yet. (I moved here last September from 38 years in southern California).

Mike, If you're anywhere around the Portland metro area, here's a good club for you:

NSO (Nautical Society of Oregon Model Shipwrights

Eric Adams is the president  ericadams@comcast.net  503-280-0982

They're mostly older guys, real artists in ship modeling in wood, but they will enthusiastically welcome all ship modelers. Their knowledge of the craft is encyclopedic. If you contact Eric he can email you a copy of their latest newsletter, and you can see what they're about.

Rich,

Thanks for the link.

Mike S.

For the amount of time you've put into that magnificent piece of work, it'd be a shame to turn it into a dust magnet. Custom cabinets aren't really that hideously expensive when you consider what you're protecting. Give this guy a shout - http://www.grandpascabinets.com/ - he did one for me that was top notch, including the shipping.

mfsob,

Thanks for the link. I've emailed them and will await their quote.

Mike S.

That's a very fine build of the Constitution. I have one waiting to get built this winter, and hope I can at least make it half as good as your's. 

When I first saw your pics all I could say was DUH!  That build is beautiful!  As for protecting it, It's really not that hard to make a display case for it and there are several places on the web to get plans and instructions.  

                                                                             Pat.

I agree, for something like a large ship model like this you can make your own case, but ... by the time you're done with the construction, "builder's fatigue" has probably set in and the case may never get made, or will get made so long after the fact that the Dust Monsters have firmly taken root and you'll never be rid of all of them.

Ron at Grandpa's Cabinets is a great guy to work with. All I can say is, I got exactly what I wanted, for what I considered a very fair price, and it was shipped right to me. And it looks just as good today as when I bought it from him, jeez, 5 years ago?

mfsob,

I appreciate the link you gave me to Grandpa's Cabinets. I got the quote this morning. He said it would be too big to ship except as a kit (which is OK by me) but the dealbreaker is that, including shipping, it would be over $800.00!! That's way over my budget. I was hoping to find something under $300.00 but I now know that's a pipe dream.

Again, thanks for the thought.

Mike S.

1943mike:

Out of curiosity, if a pre-built case is too much, do you have access to basic hand tools?

Also, do you mind if the "case" just protects the model from dust but is just basic protection?

Hardware stores sell screen door repair components that can be used to construct a temporary enclosure by substituting clear shrink fit plastic sheeting of this kind

http://tami-port.suite101.com/plastic-window-insulation-a35412

for the normal insect screen.

You would need to have a sturdy base that can hold stiff , vertical columns that the aluminum panels can be attached to.

For instance - 4 pine 2x2 vertical poles would suffice as supports that the screen hardware can be attached to. The 2x2 lumber would need to be attached to a strong base to hold the panels securely and prevent damaging the model.

If you know someone with a router or table saw, cutting slots deep enough to slide the panels into the 2x2 is possible-  or just attach the panels to the exterior of the 2x2 pine vertical supports.

The top panel can be made the same way as the side panels.

Not as nice as a professional case, but it will keep dust off and the window film is very clear, allowing a view of the build.

Let me know if my suggestion needs further clarification.

Holy crap, that ship is beautiful. The rigging is amazing!!!!

What would the dimension of the case have to be in order to hold the ship???

Sprue-ce Goose,

Thanks for the suggestion. To be frank, no, I haven't any woodworking tools nor do I know anyone  who has them.

I guess it will be a race to see which comes first: My Connie buried in dust or me just buried

Mike S.

1943Mike

Sprue-ce Goose,

Thanks for the suggestion. To be frank, no, I haven't any woodworking tools nor do I know anyone  who has them.

I guess it will be a race to see which comes first: My Connie buried in dust or me just buried

Mike S.

The most basic tools needed would be a hacksaw with fine tooth blades, a wood cutting hand saw if the local store won't cut the lumber for you and a hand drill ( not even an electricly powered drill ) and bits.

If not available, then you may need to improvise with whatever is large enough to cover but not damage the model.

Best of luck with that project !

Eric,

I believe I gave Grandpa's Cabinets the inside dimensions of 40" (L) x 17" (W) x 29" (H). That would include only about 1 1/2" in those three dimensions as extra space.

Mike S.

Having built several aquariums using acrylic, I would probably tackle it myself. Acrylics are actually very similiar to work with to sytrene, even use some of the same chemicals to bond it (MeK). Some glass shops will actually cut those sizes for you. Then it would simply be a matter of glueing the pieces together and sitting it on some sort of  (wooden?) base. It really wouldn't be that hard at all. the only thing you would need would be the MEK, I use the Weld-On brand myself. I believe some modelers here even use it to build with.

Eric,

I will mull over the suggestions both you and Sprue-ce Goose have given me. I'll check out some glass shops locally (Salem, OR) as well as going to Home Depot and Lowes for the shrink plastic idea.

I appreciate the concern of you all for my dilemma (dusty Connie vs. expensive enclosure) but I'd best finish her first.

Photography happens to be another of my hobbies (along with hiking, reading, and, if I get around to it again -  painting) for which I am in need of a hacksaw to cut down the length of the center column on one of my tripods that I use for macro work. I also believe in having the right tools for whatever job I'm doing so I don't mind springing for some hand tools that may allow me to build some sort of case (or wooden base for a case).

If in fact I do end up building a case for Connie and it works out well, I would then have some confidence for another case of roughly the same dimensions for my build of the Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark which I bought on eBay in the spring. It'll be my next Oregon winter project.

Mike S.

VERY NICE build! 

Bill

Ouch. Yeah, that would be out of my price range as well, masterpiece or no masterpiece. Time for plan B. I rather hope you don't have cats!

If you build your own case using acrylic or Lexan, MEK works great as a bonder but under NO circumstances use alcohol to clean the joints.  As the alcohol evaporates it supercools the surface of the acrylic and causes micro-cracking (ask me how I know).

                                                                                           Pat.                                                                          

Great job on the Connie!!   I agree with your concern over the $800.00 for the custom display case!

Yikes! I paid $20.00 for my 1st 1/96th Connie - $800.00 to protect a $20.00 kit...

That and I have a 2nd 1/9th Connie, plus other Connies in 1/196th,  1/100, and 1/200th.

Went a tad nuts...

nfafan

That and I have a 2nd 1/9th Connie, plus other Connies in 1/196th,  1/100, and 1/200th.

Went a tad nuts...

Not nuts.

The ship is a very seductive and practical design balance between maneuverability and firepower.

I recently purchased the smaller Revell Connie kit as a warm up for a future 1/96th kit purchase and also purchased the Revell re-release of the 1/96 Cutty Sark kit and must eventually make cases for my builds- therefore my earlier post on a possible case design.

I've been scanning the various ship builds for information regarding how members have worked thru the build process.

I would like to express my admiration for all who manage to complete the elaborate assembly for those huge kits

Rigging is not the best part of this build. Ratlines, standing and runing rigging, knots, blocks etc can be made much better in such scale. Sorry for hard words.

Wojszwillo,

I agree (and have listed some of my mistakes) that my effort at rigging this model has many faults. It is, however, as good a job as I am willing and able to do. I do not have the talent that many model builders whose work I've admired on the web have.

 Do not apologize for criticizing my work. That should be part of any forum on model building. It might help me and others however, if you were to give examples as to how you might make some of what you mentioned "better".

 I was not going to build my own ratlines, nor was I going to use many parts that were not OOB. (I did substitute some brass eyebolts for many of the plastic ones but not all of them). So, using what was in the box, with my limited talent for painting, etc. I'm happy enough with what I've done although I would certainly appreciate your thoughts on how to improve the model as built OOB.

Mike S.

I figured that on my smaller Connies - 1-pc hull 1/200th? Monogram, 1/196th Revell, 1/110? Imai/Aoshima in Monogram box, 1/100th Revell -  I'll cheat - where feasible - and use the molded ratlines. And do enough rigging to learn how to use my 55yr old fingertips and eyes.

If I can get these built with varying degrees of rigging without jumping out of a window, I'll be fully warmed up for the amount of rigging to do on the 1/96th Connies.

The important part is to enjoy the time spent and the results. I could tell the family I was building the frigate Essex and they'd never know anyway...