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Trumpeter's 1/350 scale USS Lassen, DDG-82, Burke Flight IIA, OOB Review & Buildup, Kit #4526

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  • Member since
    July 2012
  • From: Idaho, USA
Trumpeter's 1/350 scale USS Lassen, DDG-82, Burke Flight IIA, OOB Review & Buildup, Kit #4526
Posted by Jeff Head on Tuesday, January 8, 2013 3:52 PM


USS Lassen DDG-82, Arleigh Burke Flight IIA Destroyer

Introduction and What's in the Box - December 27, 2012

Trumpeter has become the pre-iminent manufacturer of 1/350 scale model warships, particularly modern warships. This model, their kit #4526, is of the USS Lassen, DDG-82, a Flight IIA Arleigh Burke class AEGUIS destroyer. The Flight IIA models include additional vertical launch (VLS) cells and full hangar facilities for two Seahawk anti-submarine helicopeters.

Dragon also makes a Flight IIA Arleigh Burke DDG, the USS Preble, DDG-88. I have purchased this kit as well and intend to build it and compare the two. the Dragon kit is cheaper, but also includes a good Photo Etch set, as does this Trmpeter model. but far fewer parts and a single piece hull. Generlly, the Dragon model has a lot of detail modled into the deck houses which are pre-molded, where as on the Trumpeter model you have many sub-assemblies and more individual part detail. I will compare both builds but generally view Trumpter as the more detailed model, more difficult to build, and with more options. The Dragon models build into very nice models, but are generally less detailed, with less options and therefore an easier build. But, well worth the proce aas they are usually priced $15-$20 dollars less than their Trumpeter equivalent model. Watch for my Preble Build on my Main 1/350 Scale Model Warship Site.

This Trumpter model comes in a beautifully illustrated box, that is well built and very protective. Inside, the hull comes in twp ppieces, the below water-line section, and an above water-line section if the builder wants to build a water-line only model, both pieces are very well molded without any excess flash. There are a total of eight sprues with over 420 parts, including a photo etch part with all the handrails and safetyr netting. No photo etch parts for the sensors and radars, however the plastic parts are exceptionally well detailed and will suffice if one is careful in taking them off the sprues and adding them to the model. After market manufacturers such as Gold Medal Model Works and Tom's Model do make very good after market photo etching for all of the Arleigh Burke class destroyers. I may add one for this model.

The plastic parts are, as stated, extremely well detailed and very well modled, down to some of the most intricate parts, so building the model as is, out of the box can also be extremely satisfying. The parts are modled in light gray, clear (for the helicopters) and gold for the photo etched parts. I intend to use my standard US Navy paint scheme of Neutral Gray for all major vertical surfaces of the ship, a mix of 2 parts red and one part brown of Model Masters paints for the below water line hull, Flat Black for the waterline stripe and other flat black areas, Weathered Black for the funnels and the windows, Flight Deck Stain for the horizontal surfaces outside of the actual landing pad, Flight Deck Gray for the landing pad, Camoflage White for the hangar enterior walls, and Flat White for the radomes and life rafts. Other colors (such as Ensignia Orange for the life buoys), as required. Here are the initial parts out of the box.













At the time I purchased the model (almost a year ago) I did not take a hard look at it, other than opening it and making sure all looked in order. Then, after completing my Trumpeter 1/350 scale PLA Navy's Aircraft Carrier CV-16, Liaoning, and then completing my Tamyia 1/350 scale USS Enterprise, CVN-65, I began to look at this model in more detail.

To my surprise, I discovered that the entire "S" sprue was missing! This is a small sprue that contains all of the bridge window structures and the aft helo deck landing windows! I have contacted the seller (HobbyLinc) to ask them to replace these parts but am proceeding forward trying to scratch build the respective parts as I go. If I get the parts later, I will (if I do not do a very respectable job on the scratch builds) take the model apart and rebuild those areas with the appropriate parts.

The Build - Painting all parts and initial Deck House construction - December 31, 2012

I first go through and paint all of the parts on the sprues their respective colors, figuring to do any touch up work later after they come together where necessary...and it is always necessary.

So, here are all the main parts painted accordingly:



The it was time to actually start building the various major deck house structures. This shows the after deck house areas being built and the forward one (with my initial work on the missing parts shown) completed. I will further work on the scratch build of the bridge areas later.



All in all the detail of the vessel is quite good with this kit, and I expect it will continue to come together nicely with furute reports. Back again in a few days time.

The Build - Mid-ships Deck House, Hangar Bays, and intial Railings complete - January 4, 2012

Well, I contacted HobbyLinc and their policy is to only do returns or fixes after three months. Despite the fact that the model remained un-open, since it has been almost a year, they will not send a replacement for the "S" Sprue...not very good customer service in my opinion...but it is what it is. I contacted Stevens Interational, who is the US supplier for Trumpeter, but their policy is to do returns only on items purchased directly from them. I contacted Trumpeter in China and have not heard back from them. HobbyLinc is holding firm, and it will probably result in me buying my USS Preble by Dragon from someone else because HobbyLinc (IMHO) is not "taking care" of me, their customer. If they have a policy to get missing parts, then they could easily make an exception in a case where a model remained unopened for a year and was essentially new out of the box. But they are sticking to their guns and I suppose they will lose my business on the USS Preble purchase. Oh, well, such is the life of model building, particularly when dealing with models and parts delivered from off-shore. I'll make due with my own scratch building efforts, or buy another kit.

I left this a few days ago in the middle of the mid-ships deck house construction. This is the part that includes the largest Mk-41 VLS launcher with 64 cells, their directors, the aft smoke stacks, and the coverings for the helicopter hangar bays. The hanger bays include parts that show a very detailed and accurate depiction of each hanger bay. I completed the deck house and then completed both hangar bays as shown below. This is one difference between this Trumpeter Arleigh Burke Flight IIA the Flight IIA USS Preble by Dragon Models. The Preble makes no provision for the hanger bays for the two helos being open and visible. Their model is set up to be built with the hanger doors closed, though they do provide the Sea Hawk helicopter for the landing deck. I intend to leave both bays open on the Trumpeter model to show helo flight operations with one helo coming out of one bay, and the other helo on deck preparing to take off, with its bay also open. As I said, the bays have a nice amount of detail on the interior and they were fun to build and paint.



Once that was all built and dried, it was time to put it together onto the hull. The fit is good, but because of the hangar bays being situated under the mid ships deck house with a close fit, and because the after edges of that deck house are flush with the sides of the hull, it required some careful placement and then clamping to ensure that a good solid fit and bond were formed.



At this point, I decided to place the railing on all of the deck areas using the photo etched railing that came with the kit. To this point I have completed the forward and mid ship main deck areas and the forward second deck, around the forward CIWS mount. I will continue with more of this railing for all main deck areas in the next section, adding the forward stack area along with the detail between that stack and the forward deck house/bridge area. As it is, here is the intial PE railing.



Coming along nicely now.

The Build - Forward and Mid-Ship Details, Decals - January 8, 2013

There is simply a lot of detail in this ship. Many, many small parts that add a lot of realism to the decks. All sorts of equipment, instrumentation, sensors, weapons, and other details.

In this build I added a lot of those, including the forward gun. The gun was meant, in this model, to be glued in place. I decided to scratch build a simple mechanism to let it rotate. I did this by removing (cutting off) the bottom spindle on the 5" gun assembly that was to be glued into the hole in the deck, and then drilling a hole in the lower plate of the 5" gun to add a small round piece of sprue. I then ensured that the hole in the deck was a tight fit for this and added a small cap on the bottom, glued to that sprue that now extended through the deck into the hull so the gun could rotate. I also built the many, many other small details provided by Trumpeter for this model. It is another of the areas where the Trumpeter model differs sifnificantly from the Dragon model of the same Flight IIA Class (which I will discuss later during that build, comparing the two). Here's how some of that building went:



I then went on to add the missile directors forward and aft (three directers in all, one forward and two aft) the forward and aft smoke stack structure and smoke stacks, and the details above the main deck for the forward deck house and all the details on the main deck forward on the ship from the bridge to the bow. This necessitated adding many of the decals so that the guns and CIWS and other pieces could be placed over the deck decals. So, I just added all of the decals. Here's how the vessel looks now:






Good progress over the last few days. Next will be the main mast which is a significant assembly of scores of pieces in and of itself...but will add the characteristic raked mast to the vessel. Then, in the same build, I will add all the details on the main deck clear to the stern of the vessel. There's a lot of them, including the Mk-38 25mm guns, the ships boats and cranes for them, more .50 cal machine guns on the helo deck on the forward port and starboard sides, and a lot more equipment, life buoys, all of the life rafts, etc. I'll go there over the next few days and then catch back up here.


SCHEDULE for Future Activities as of December 31, 2012

- By Jan 15, 2012: Complete the USS Lassen, DDG-82.
- By Feb 15, 2013: Complete PLAN Xuzhao (FFG-53) and Huangshan(FFG-570).
- By Mar 15, 2013: Complete Cyber Hobby's USS Independence, LCS-2
- By May 01, 2013: Complete entire PLAN Carrier Group.
- By Jun 15, 2013: Complete Entire US Carrier Group (Just the CSG).
- By Jul 01, 2013: Start the UK Carrier Group Centered on Airfix's HMS Illustrious.
- By Aug 15, 2013: Start the JMSDF Carrier Group Centered on Fujimi's JMSDF Hyuga.
- By Oct 01, 2013: Start the French Carrier group centered on Heller's Charles de Gaulle.
- By Nov 15, 2013, Start the US ARG centered on the USS Iwo Jima and USS Sommerset.

The completion of the PLAN Carrier group, centered on the already completed Trumpeter's 1/350 scale PLA Navy's Aircraft Carrier CV-16, Liaoning[/b], (in addition ot the other escorts already completed) will incluide Mini Hobby's's PLAN Guangzhou, DDG-168; the PLAN Ningbo, DDG-139; and the PLAN ChangZhang5, SSN-405 by Hobby Boss. If a 1/350 scale model of the PLAN Type 071 LPD, Yuzhao Class, is added, I will add one of those, propbably LPD-999, Jinggangshan.

The completion of the US Carrier Strike group, centered on the completed Tamyia's 1/350 scale USS Enterprise, CVN-65[/b], (in addition ot the other escorts already completed) will include Trumpeter's USS Bunker Hill, CG-52 and USS Freedom, LCS-1 and Hobby Boss's USS Texas, SSN-775. (All of which I already own). When a 1/350 scale USS Enterprise, CVN-80 (or any Gerald R. Ford Class) comes out from Trumpeter, Airfix, Tamiya, Dragon, or whomever else, I will add it to this group along with another AEGIS Cruiser. Whatever Ford Class coms out, I will build her as the USS Enterprise, CVN-80.

The UK Group will indlude the Airfix 1/350 scale HMS Illustrious (which I already own), two Airfix 1/350 scale Daring Class DDGs (which I own and should arrive in January 2013), two Trumpeter 1/350 scale Type 23 HMS Duke class Frigates (which I already own), and the Hobby Boss 1/350 scale HMS Astute SSN and Airfix 1/350 scale HMS Tragalgar SSN, both of which which I already own. One day, when a 1/350 scale HMS Queen Elizabeth carrier and a 1/350 HMS Ocean LPD come out, I will add both to this group.

The French CSG will be centered on Heller's 1/400 scale Charles De Gualle (which I already own). I have purchased 1/400 scale Heller French De Grasse, D612 DDG, which is an ASW DDG, the French Duquesne, D603 DDG which is an anti-air multi-purpose DDG, and the French Aconit F713 FFG and Gueprattet F714 FFGs, both of which are Lafayette class frigates. These five vessels will round out my French CSG. As soon as a French Robin class nuclear sub, like the French Perale S606 SSN comes out, I will add that to the group. Also as soon as the Forbin D620, Horizon class anti-air DDG is available, I will purchase it and add it to the group as well.

The Japanese JMSDF group will be centered on Fujimi's very finely detailed, 1/350 scale Hyuga, DDH-181, which I own. It will be escorted by Trumpeter's 1/350 scale DDG-177, Atago, an AEGIS class DDG (which I have purchased), Trumpeters's 1/350 scale DDG-114 Susunami (A Tachanami Class DDG which I own), and by the 1/350 scale SS-503 Hakuryu (which I own), one of Japans new, very modern and capable AIP Diesel Electric submarines. As soo as a DDG-115 Akizuki in 1/350 scale becomes available, I will add it to this group.

The completion of the US ARG will include Tamiya's 1/350 scale, USS Iowa, BB-62[/b] (which I have already completed), Trumpeter's 1/350 scale USS Iwo Jima LHD-7, Gallery's 1/350 scale USS Sommerset, LPD-25, and Trumpeter's 1/350 scale USS The Sullivans DDG-68,

Then, finally it will be a complete Russian CSG (centered on Trumpeter's Kuznetsov which is available but I have not purchased yet) the Russian Slava Class cruiser, Varyag by Trumperter (which I own), two Trumpeter 1/350 scale Udalaoy DDGs (which I own), Hobby Boss's Akula II class SSN (which I own), and the Russian Alfa Class SSN[/b], which I have already completed.

Recently I purchased Heller's 1/400 scale Foch, the Clemceau Class carrier that was sold to the Brazilians in 2000 and in 2002 was refitted and bacame the Brazilian CV, Sao Paulo, using steam catapaults. I will build the model as the Sao Paulo and thus start a Brazilian group, though the Type 22 DDGs and the FFGs the Brazilians use are not available at present.

Then, again, once the models are available, I'd like to build an Italian Group centered on the Cavour and their Horizon DDGs, a Spanish Group centered on the Juan Carlos and their F-100 AEGIS FFGs, and ultimatly an Australian Group centered on the new Canberra Class LPD and the Hobart class AEGIS DDGs. If they ever build the models, an Indian group centered on either the Vikramaditya or their new ADS Carrier the Vikrant and their Kolkata class DDGs and Shivlak class FFGs would also be nice.

You can see all of these actual carriers, read their histories and specifictions at my site:

WORLD-WIDE AIRCRAFT CARRIERS

...and most of their surface escorts at:

AEGIS AND AEGIS-LIKE VESSELS OF THE WORLD

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Spartanburg, SC
Posted by subfixer on Tuesday, January 8, 2013 4:40 PM

Is that Deck Gray on the horizontal surfaces? The pictures make it look like a shade of blue, maybe?

Lookin' good.

I'm from the government and I'm here to help.

  • Member since
    July 2012
  • From: Idaho, USA
Posted by Jeff Head on Tuesday, January 8, 2013 5:28 PM

I'm using Testor's Model Master Flight Deck Stain.  It does have a blue tint in it.  I use Model Master Flight Deck Gray for the landing surface (carriers, Destroyers, Frigatess, LHDs LPDs, etc.).

The Flight Deck Stain is lighter and makes a good standard color for me.  It was originally a World War II color for carrier decks - Flight Deck Stain #21.  I know it is not an exact US Navy fit, but having a standard color that is close and used for all my vessels in the CSG and ARG works for me.  

This is what I use for US vessels.  I have a similar guide for the Chinese, Russians, Japanese, French, UK, etc.:

Jeff Head Color Guide for modern US Naval Vessels:

Vessel Area                     Paint Name                                       Model Master                   Floquil

Hull/ Superstructure       Nuetral Gray                                       1725

Walerline Demark          Flat Black                                            1749

Hull Below Water Line   Flat Brown (25%) Flat Red (75%)  1166/1150

Flight Decks (Full)           Fight Deck Gray                                 4234

Regular Decks                 Flight Deck Stain                               4242

Vessel Radomes             Flat White                                           1768

Life Rafts                            Flat White                                           1768

Vessel Propellers             Brass                                                  1782

Flight Deck Cranes/Tugs Flat Yellow                                        1144

Flight Deck Fire Trucks     Flat White w/Flat Blue Stripe         1768/2032

Naval Aircraft Top Standard    Navy Gray                                   4233

Naval Aircraft Nose Cone       Std Navy Gray/Radom Tan      4233/1709

Naval Aircraft Bottom             Light Gray                                     1732

Helo & Aircraft propellers      Flat Black                                     1749

Windows/Tires Weathered   Black                                                                                              F110017

Tail Pipes/Landing Gear       Steel                                              1780

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Tuesday, January 8, 2013 5:41 PM

I share your enthusiasm for Trumpeter, although I like those other guys too. That's an impressive post. It has a lot of information, and it certainly must have taken a deal of time to create. Thanks for that.

So out of curiosity I looked up carriers in service;

en.wikipedia.org/.../List_of_aircraft_carriers_in_service

Seems you're only missing Spain and Thailand! Great post, thanks.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    July 2012
  • From: Idaho, USA
Posted by Jeff Head on Tuesday, January 8, 2013 11:40 PM

Actually at my World-wide Aircraft Carrier site mentioned above, I do have both of Spain's Carriers (one is on the Carrier page and the other is on the Amphib Page there because the Juan Carlos is an LPH), and I also have the Thai Carrier on the Carrier page.

Here are their links:

Spanish Principe de Asturias

www.freewebs.com/.../asturias.htm

Spanish Juan Carlos

www.freewebs.com/.../bpe.htm

Thailand Chakri Nareubet

www.freewebs.com/.../naruebet.htm

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Wednesday, January 9, 2013 10:07 PM

Jeff, thanks for the excellent review!  Since my name is Lassen, I just had to order one of these kits from Sprue Brothers today!  Normally, I build WWII aircraft.  I haven't built a ship since I was a kid in the 50's, a decent plastic LST, long gone now, so I am looking forward to tackling this one!

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

  • Member since
    July 2012
  • From: Idaho, USA
Posted by Jeff Head on Thursday, January 10, 2013 12:01 AM

Chuck,

You will not be sorry.  Fine kit.  If you really want to get detailed, get the Photo Etch kit for 1/350 scale Arleigh Burkes from Gold Medal Models or Tom's Model Works.  As it is, the PE parts that come with this kit are nice.  I did add some additional PE parts up in the main mast area...actually tonight.  I will be posting an update tomorrow showing my progress.

If you get the chance, check out my other reviews, both here on Fine Scale Modelr, and on my site, where I am tracking all of my Carrier Strike Group builds at: htt://www.jeffhead.com/modelbuilds.

Have a lot of fun.  I build modern 1/72 scale aircraft too.  Got a bunch of them, both built and in stash.  One day I will do a site for them too.

I do have a B-17G from WW II in 1/72 scale I will build at some point in honor of my Uncle, my mother's only brother (she had four sisters) who died in 1944 over Germany when his B-17 was shot down...hit by an 88, two missions before they were done.

God's speed...and fair winds and a following sea.

  • Member since
    July 2012
  • From: Idaho, USA
Posted by Jeff Head on Thursday, January 10, 2013 1:58 PM

Latest Update: More deck details and Main Mast- January 10, 2013

I continued with the Lassen, adding more deck details, like the MK-38 25mm guns, the ship's launches and davits, and numerous other details, and began working on the main mast. The main mast on the Arleigh Burke destroyers is distinctive. It is a raked mast, angled back to help with reducing its radar signature. It is a miniature model all its own consisting of over 30 parts. I added a couple of Photo Etch parts from my Dragon, 1/350 Scale, USS Sullivans model that I am using for spare parts to assist with this model and the other two Burke Flight IIA DDGd I inytend to build for the US CSG and ARG. The Dragon Models have a second PE sprue that contains more parts, including the personnel supports on the main masts for the sailors to climb up there and do maintenance on the sensors. Here's the construction of those various parts:

Now it was time to attach the main mast and its supports. This had to be carefully done since the main supports for the mast, and the supports for the main arm of the mast could not be added until the mast itself was glued in place. You do not want the mast to dry firm before doing this because you have to have enough "play" in the mast to allow for the proper placement of those main supports and ensuring that they are both symetrical and properly placed.

So, here's the process I used to do this. First, you get the glue on...and in this case I carefully added glue to both surfaces (the mast and the deck), and then let it get "tacky." Once it was a little "tacky," I added the mast, pressing it in place firmly for about 20-30 seconds to get the bond started, and then letting it set for a few minutes so it would stand on its own, but not set enough to be firm. It was then that I added the two long support braces that extend from the middle of the mast at the main arm, down to the two locations on the forward deck house aft of the mast. This process allowed me to gently place those parts and move the mast into its proper final position, with both braces symetrcial to each other and the mast set evenly. Then, I let that dry firmly and then added the supports that come from the outer portion of the main mast arm (underneath on the bottom of the arm) down to each of these supporting braces. I was pleased with the results.


Very good progress on the vessel now. You can see the lower hull in the background in several of these pictures. For the next and possibly last installement of this build, I will paint the black waterline strip on the upper hull, add all of the life raft caontainers onto the vessel, build and locate the SeaHawk helicopters on the flight deck and add the safety netting there, and then add the lower hull, the props, screws and rudders. This should complete the model and I hope to be able to have the time to do that over the next 2-3 days, accomplishing the most on Saturday when I have more time to work on it. Back with more then.

Helos, rigging and COMPLETION - January 13, 2013!

 I had a couple of more items to build to finish the model. One was the two Seahawk helos for the landing pad and hangers. I decided to complete one ready for takeoff in the middle of the landing pad, and the other just peeking out of its hanger, preparing to be the next in line for takeoff. These helo models are molded in clear plastic so that if you wanted, you could really do up the interior and leave the windows clear to see that level of detail. I am afraid a 1/350 scale detailed helo cockpit and interior are a bit too much for these later 50s hands and eyes, so I painted them in normal colors. Testor's Model MAster Light Ghost Gray for the fuselage, black for the tires, canopy, and rotors, which I added yellow tips to. And then steel for the landing struts.

I also had to scratch build the aft, landing pad viewing station, which was on that "S" sprue that was not included with the model, and which I fabricated from spare parts and then used a couple of small rectangular PE parts, painted black, for the windows. Also, masked off the name plate area on the stand I had built to paint it light gray so I can later stencil or find decals for it to name the model. I used nasking tape and paper, and then (what I really wanted to show here) used my high-tech, very expnsive (/sarcasm) spray paint booth to paint it as shown below. Really, you can buy really nice modeling spray paint booths for upwards of $200 dollars...my solution works pretty well at...let's say...a real fraction of the cost. Hehehe.


I then did the rigging. The rigging on this model is fairly staright forward with four lines on each side from the main mast down to areas behind the main deck house and forward of the first smoke stack. I had placed hand rails there (not included or shown on the model) specifically to provide these tie down points behind the main deck house. Intricate work and somewhat time consuming, but also gratifying. Adds one of those "touches" to the model that lends more realism. I also scratch built an aft yard arm from the main mast to place the rigging for the main flag.

Now it was time for placing the model on its stand, doing any final touch up painting and adding a couple of coats of dull coat over the entire thing to give that flat finish and protect the decals. I did that, completing the model (except for 1/350 scale figures and flags I amy add at a later date) and completed the model. Here's how she looks. A real beaut!



Trumpeter's USS Lassen, DDG-82, completed in 1/350 scale for my US Navy CSG.  I will also build the USS p[reble by Dragon and compare the two...I can pretty much say already that the Trumpetetr model is the better build, more detail, more difficult, more complete...but the Preble looks good too and it will be interesting to see if the finished product is as pleasing, even if a lot of it is molded from the get go.  I have no doubts it will prodce a fine model too, just do not believe it will be as good as this one.

Anyhow, in the mean time...wow on to those two Chinese Type 054A FFGs for the PLAN CSG.

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Monday, March 11, 2013 4:48 PM

Nice work, Jeff!  Your finished model has given me inspiration to continue!  I'm still in the early steps, the deck is done and am now going blind building the first superstructure.  Your photos are very helpful, especially the rigging.  I think I can do that using stiff wire, might be easier.

Thanks again-  Chuck Lassen

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

  • Member since
    July 2012
  • From: Idaho, USA
Posted by Jeff Head on Friday, March 15, 2013 3:18 PM

Thanks, I am sure you will enjoy the build.  I am building Trumpeter's 1/350 scale USS Freedom, LCS-1 right now.  

www.jeffhead.com/.../US-lcs01.htm

When I finish that I am anxious to start the Dragon Model's USS Preble, DDG-88, Arliegh Burke Flight IIA in 1/350 scale and compare it to this one by Trumpeter.

Typically, Trumpeter has significant more detail and a lot more parts,putting a lot of small detailed parts into individual plastic molded parts, whicl Dragon does a GREAT job of modling significant detail right into the large portions of the hull.  Good detail...but more difficult to paint and make look individual.

Anyhow, neat how your name lines right up with the USS LAssen.  Any relation?  The USS Lassen was named for  Clyde Lassen, who received the Medal of Honor for rescueing of two downed aviators in Vietnam  very hostile territory.  He commanded the a search and rescue helicopter that found and brought them home.

God's speed...fair skies and a following wind!

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Friday, March 15, 2013 3:28 PM

That's a beautiful ship!  Nice work.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2012
  • From: Idaho, USA
Posted by Jeff Head on Friday, March 15, 2013 5:47 PM

Thank you very much! I have a bunch of others built...and even more planned.  See:

www.jeffhead.com/modelbuilds

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Friday, March 15, 2013 8:57 PM

I have researched the bio of Clyde Lassen and checked some geneaology sources, but so far, it seems I am not related to him, although it is not a common name.  Still, it was fun to find a ship with my name on it!

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

  • Member since
    April 2012
Posted by Flying Finn on Saturday, March 16, 2013 10:18 PM

Jeff,

Beautiful ship!  Excellent job.  I'm planning on building this one for my brother in law who is a Plank Owner on the Lassen.  Your review and build log have been very helpful.

Cheers,

Wayne

  • Member since
    July 2012
  • From: Idaho, USA
Posted by Jeff Head on Tuesday, March 19, 2013 10:14 AM

Well, I am sure somewhere back down the line you are related.  He was a very brave individual who went above and beyond the call.  Good luck and have a lot of fun with your build.  Please point me to it when you get it done and can upload a build-up review here, or elsewhere.

  • Member since
    July 2012
  • From: Idaho, USA
Posted by Jeff Head on Tuesday, March 19, 2013 10:19 AM

Thank you very much for reading it and the kind words. I am currently building Trumpeter's 1/350 scale USS Freedom, LCS-1.  

www.jeffhead.com/.../US-lcs01.htm

When I finish that I am anxious to start the Dragon Model's USS Preble, DDG-88, Arliegh Burke Flight IIA in 1/350 scale and compare it to this one by Trumpeter.

Typically, Trumpeter has a lot more detail resulting in a lot more parts, putting a lot of small detailed parts into individual plastic molded parts, while Dragon does a GREAT job of modling significant detail right into the large portions of the hull.  Good detail...but more difficult to paint and make look individual.

I think the Trumpeter model is overall better, but you also pay more, and if you are very careful and good at painting the small details, can get almost as good an effect.

Anyhow, I will have that review here and on my own site (above) when I do.

Thanks again!

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Thursday, April 25, 2013 11:01 AM

This is my own fault for not thoroughly reading through the entire instruction book before starting the model, but now that most of it is finished and nicely painted, I discovered there are NO indications of where, when, or how, to mount the PE deck railings!  They are not shown anywhere, not even on the full color multiview painting and decal placement instruction sheet.

If I try to add them now, I will surely mess up a nice paint job, and repainting is not an option due to all the little plastic parts affixed to the decks, no way to sand it off, add railings, and do a good finishing job.

I am really disappointed in Trumpeter for the incomplete instruction manual.  This is why I usually enjoy building aircraft models as my first preference.

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

  • Member since
    July 2012
  • From: Idaho, USA
Posted by Jeff Head on Thursday, April 25, 2013 11:29 AM

Well, I really enjoyed this model, and placed the PE railing at various stages of the build, but mostly towards the end.

if you had the model painted when you noticed this you were probably planning to place them at the end as well.  This can be done without messing up the painting if you are very careful,  I usually place a drop of my PE glue mixture (super glue and plastic cement mixed to give the super glue some consistancy and which has the plastic cement firming up faster for a base) on the tip of a very small, angled pick.  I then wait maybe fifteen seconds and then spread that drop in a line along where the railing will go and then very carefully place the PE railing there.  Usually this works very well and leaves very little indication of the gluing.

Then, some fine brush touch up where necessary and a coat of dull coat makes any left over changes in texture or glint pretty much go away.

Anyhow, that's how I would proceed.  Good luck and hope it turns out well.

As I said, I really enjoy the level of detail provided by Trumpeter over the Dragon model which I also built and reviewed as a comparison.  Though both models end up looking good, there is a major structural issue with all of the Dragon Burkes in that the landing pad is too long, and the hanger too short.

Here's the Lassen, DDG-82 (Trumpeter), and the Preble DDG-88 (Dragon) right after one another to compare:

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Thursday, April 25, 2013 1:17 PM

Thanks for the suggestions, Jeff.  I will seriously consider doing that.  What kind of plastic cement did you mix with the super glue?  Are you talking about tube glue?  

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

  • Member since
    July 2012
  • From: Idaho, USA
Posted by Jeff Head on Thursday, April 25, 2013 4:45 PM

Yep...just your standard plastic model cement in the red tube.

The super glue is the quick drying type for PE.  It is pretty runny and I started mixing plastic cement in it because I wanted there to be more consistancy and more form to it...easier to work with.

Anyhow, I usually mix 1:1 and then, as I said, let the drops dry a few seconds before applying so they start to set up and then carefully put the PE onto the small bead I lay down, applying ever so slight pressure to let it set.  Works out pretty well.

Good luck...post pics!

  • Member since
    March 2009
  • From: brisbane australia
Posted by surfsup on Friday, April 26, 2013 5:38 AM

You have done a beautiful job on her. You should be very happy.....Cheers mark

If i was your wife, i'd poison your tea! If Iwas your husband, I would drink it! WINSTON CHURCHILL

  • Member since
    July 2012
  • From: Idaho, USA
Posted by Jeff Head on Friday, April 26, 2013 7:45 AM

Thank you for those kind words.  She is a part of my World's Modern Carrier Strike Group Project as an escort for my US Navy CSG.

Jeff Head's 1/350 Scale Modern Aircraft Carrier Strike Groups

www.jeffhead.com/modelbuilds

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Friday, April 26, 2013 7:33 PM

Well, Jeff, after further study of the configuration of the decks, the paint job, which is good, and considering your advice, I have decided that adding the railings at this point is a couple of steps above my skill level, so reluctantly, I will leave them off.  There are a lot of bumps and protusions on the decks that get in the way of the rails, also.  My hands are a bit shaky, as I am one of the senior guys on the forum, and the ship looks good so far, so I have decided not to risk messing it up.

Now, if you lived down the street from me, I would be happy to bring my model to you, and entrust you with adding those PE railings!

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

  • Member since
    July 2012
  • From: Idaho, USA
Posted by Jeff Head on Saturday, April 27, 2013 1:18 AM

No problem...I am sure it is a very good looking model!  Please, if you get a chance, post some photos.  

I got back into to this (model building which I did as a youngster, and then later in my 30s for 3-4 years) after being diagnosed with a very rare malignant bone cancer and undergoing massive surgerieis (3 of them) in 2010 to remove my entire sacrum...and then the recovery for months in the hospital followed by several months of very intensive rehab.

My Sacral Chordoma Journal

www.jeffhead.com/chordoma.htm

Luckily, they were able to accomodate me back at work due to my resulting disabilities...but in the evenings this has been very therapuetic for me.

I have about 5 years to go until retirement so am very grateful to be able to continue working.

God's speed and Bravo Zulu!

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Saturday, April 27, 2013 10:48 AM

Wow, Jeff, that is some ordeal you went through.  I, too, have found modeling to be very therapuetic since open heart surgery 4 years ago.  I'm retired, and have lots of time on my hands, so this keeps me busy and sane (and off the streets!)

I will post a photo when the ship is finished, though it will be a few weeks, I'm sure.  This is the first ship model I have built since I was a kid, so there were a lot of new techniques to learn and I am going slow and doing it right, so far.

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

  • Member since
    July 2012
  • From: Idaho, USA
Posted by Jeff Head on Tuesday, June 4, 2013 10:59 AM

Well, I have another five years until retirement and was saving a lot of these kits until then...but then the cancer came, the drastic surgeries, hospitialization, recovery and rehab and then the disabilities.  So, at the suggestion of my dear wife of 35 years, I broke the kits out and started anew.

it was  a GREAT suggestion and a very helpful thing.  God bless you on surviving your open heart surgery.  My father had two quadruple by passes, and I know hwo involved, and difficult thaat is.  Glad you were able to percerevere, and pray God's blessings on you and your family.

So, now we can trade notes on our model building experience.  I have gotten a three of my grandsons involved.  Here's a link to a Facebook video of my 10 year-old, Riley and his starting the USS Ronald Reagan in 1/700 scale.  It's a lot of fun, and very fulfilling to work with them.

Facebook Video of my Grandson and the 1/700 Scale USS Ronald Reagan

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Tuesday, June 4, 2013 1:48 PM

Here are a few pics of my finished ship, Jeff, and thank you  for the well wishes!

 

 

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

  • Member since
    July 2012
  • From: Idaho, USA
Posted by Jeff Head on Tuesday, June 4, 2013 2:02 PM

That is a GREAT job.  Outstanding painting, and a very clean build.  Trumpeter provides so many details that make for such a nicer looking vessel.

You should create your own review and buildup page here on FS for it.  Detailing how you got back into ship building and all the steps you went through to produce the model.  A lot of people could benefit from it.

Anyhow, again, great job!  And thanks for sharing it here.

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Tuesday, June 4, 2013 3:30 PM

Thanks, glad you like the paint job!  Since it's been over 50 years since I did a ship model, I guess aircraft and figure painting skills are indeed transferrable to other subjects.  There is no hand painting, (except for tiny touch-ups.)  I used Model Master enamels with an Iwata double action airbrush.  I built and painted everything as assemblies and the last step was to glue the completed superstructure blocks to the deck.

I built the hanger doors closed as I figured it would be difficult for anyone to view the interior.

The black waterline stripe is a piece of Testor's self-adhesive trim tape.  They make a set of three rolls of three colors, each roll having about six different widths of tape on it.  I simply put the tape over the seam between the bottom hull and the upper hull, covering it nicely and saving me the trouble of filling and sanding the seam.  It was strictly an accident that I found this tape hanging on a pegboard at the LHS.  I'm sure I will find more uses for it on future models.

I used Allean'sTacky Glue to attach the superstructure blocks to the deck, then after it dried, I ran a bead of CA along the joints.  It dried glossy, so I gave the whole thing another coat of Testor's MM Dullcoat and the glossy CA became invisible.

The nameplate was painted with Tamiya lacquer in rattle cans.  First, a primer, then an overcoat of silver, next a coat of black.  After it was dry, I gently sanded the black off the raised letters being careful not to go through the silver coat.  Took a bit of patience and a little touch up at the end, but came out OK.

As far as writing a review, well, that's something I don't enjoy, although I like giving techique tips such as above to help out the readers whenever possible.  The reason I got back into shipbuiding was finding your article here.  I did not know there was a ship named USS Lassen until then, and that intrigued me and I just HAD to build it.  Plus, my wife has been encouraging me for years to build something other than aircraft!

Best regards,

Chuck Lassen

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Spartanburg, SC
Posted by subfixer on Wednesday, June 5, 2013 12:02 PM

Kudos on the deck gray decks!

I'm from the government and I'm here to help.

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