Latest Update: More deck details and Main Mast- January 10, 2013
I continued with the Lassen, adding more deck details, like the MK-38 25mm guns, the ship's launches and davits, and numerous other details, and began working on the main mast. The main mast on the Arleigh Burke destroyers is distinctive. It is a raked mast, angled back to help with reducing its radar signature. It is a miniature model all its own consisting of over 30 parts. I added a couple of Photo Etch parts from my Dragon, 1/350 Scale, USS Sullivans model that I am using for spare parts to assist with this model and the other two Burke Flight IIA DDGd I inytend to build for the US CSG and ARG. The Dragon Models have a second PE sprue that contains more parts, including the personnel supports on the main masts for the sailors to climb up there and do maintenance on the sensors. Here's the construction of those various parts:
Now it was time to attach the main mast and its supports. This had to be carefully done since the main supports for the mast, and the supports for the main arm of the mast could not be added until the mast itself was glued in place. You do not want the mast to dry firm before doing this because you have to have enough "play" in the mast to allow for the proper placement of those main supports and ensuring that they are both symetrical and properly placed.
So, here's the process I used to do this. First, you get the glue on...and in this case I carefully added glue to both surfaces (the mast and the deck), and then let it get "tacky." Once it was a little "tacky," I added the mast, pressing it in place firmly for about 20-30 seconds to get the bond started, and then letting it set for a few minutes so it would stand on its own, but not set enough to be firm. It was then that I added the two long support braces that extend from the middle of the mast at the main arm, down to the two locations on the forward deck house aft of the mast. This process allowed me to gently place those parts and move the mast into its proper final position, with both braces symetrcial to each other and the mast set evenly. Then, I let that dry firmly and then added the supports that come from the outer portion of the main mast arm (underneath on the bottom of the arm) down to each of these supporting braces. I was pleased with the results.
Very good progress on the vessel now. You can see the lower hull in the background in several of these pictures. For the next and possibly last installement of this build, I will paint the black waterline strip on the upper hull, add all of the life raft caontainers onto the vessel, build and locate the SeaHawk helicopters on the flight deck and add the safety netting there, and then add the lower hull, the props, screws and rudders. This should complete the model and I hope to be able to have the time to do that over the next 2-3 days, accomplishing the most on Saturday when I have more time to work on it. Back with more then.
Helos, rigging and COMPLETION - January 13, 2013!
I had a couple of more items to build to finish the model. One was the two Seahawk helos for the landing pad and hangers. I decided to complete one ready for takeoff in the middle of the landing pad, and the other just peeking out of its hanger, preparing to be the next in line for takeoff. These helo models are molded in clear plastic so that if you wanted, you could really do up the interior and leave the windows clear to see that level of detail. I am afraid a 1/350 scale detailed helo cockpit and interior are a bit too much for these later 50s hands and eyes, so I painted them in normal colors. Testor's Model MAster Light Ghost Gray for the fuselage, black for the tires, canopy, and rotors, which I added yellow tips to. And then steel for the landing struts.
I also had to scratch build the aft, landing pad viewing station, which was on that "S" sprue that was not included with the model, and which I fabricated from spare parts and then used a couple of small rectangular PE parts, painted black, for the windows. Also, masked off the name plate area on the stand I had built to paint it light gray so I can later stencil or find decals for it to name the model. I used nasking tape and paper, and then (what I really wanted to show here) used my high-tech, very expnsive (/sarcasm) spray paint booth to paint it as shown below. Really, you can buy really nice modeling spray paint booths for upwards of $200 dollars...my solution works pretty well at...let's say...a real fraction of the cost. Hehehe.
I then did the rigging. The rigging on this model is fairly staright forward with four lines on each side from the main mast down to areas behind the main deck house and forward of the first smoke stack. I had placed hand rails there (not included or shown on the model) specifically to provide these tie down points behind the main deck house. Intricate work and somewhat time consuming, but also gratifying. Adds one of those "touches" to the model that lends more realism. I also scratch built an aft yard arm from the main mast to place the rigging for the main flag.
Now it was time for placing the model on its stand, doing any final touch up painting and adding a couple of coats of dull coat over the entire thing to give that flat finish and protect the decals. I did that, completing the model (except for 1/350 scale figures and flags I amy add at a later date) and completed the model. Here's how she looks. A real beaut!
Trumpeter's USS Lassen, DDG-82, completed in 1/350 scale for my US Navy CSG. I will also build the USS p[reble by Dragon and compare the two...I can pretty much say already that the Trumpetetr model is the better build, more detail, more difficult, more complete...but the Preble looks good too and it will be interesting to see if the finished product is as pleasing, even if a lot of it is molded from the get go. I have no doubts it will prodce a fine model too, just do not believe it will be as good as this one.
Anyhow, in the mean time...wow on to those two Chinese Type 054A FFGs for the PLAN CSG.