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U 581 1/144 Modelcraft kit VII-C motorized BUILT 02/2013

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  • Member since
    February 2011
U 581 1/144 Modelcraft kit VII-C motorized BUILT 02/2013
Posted by Hokey on Tuesday, February 5, 2013 12:04 PM

Kit #2 done finally. Built modified without the motor, and other plastic substitutions. Last photo is alongside U 107 1/350 Mirage IXB kit. Feel free to critique and offer suggestions on how to improve. I'm a complete beginner! :)


U581 (1) by hotkey, on Flickr


U581 (2) by hotkey, on Flickr


U581 (3) by hotkey, on Flickr


U581 (3) by hotkey, on Flickr


U581 (5) by hotkey, on Flickr


U581 (6) by hotkey, on Flickr


U581 (7) by hotkey, on Flickr


U581 (8) by hotkey, on Flickr


U581 (9) by hotkey, on Flickr


U581 and U107 by hotkey, on Flickr

  • Member since
    July 2012
  • From: Douglas AZ
Posted by littletimmy on Tuesday, February 5, 2013 12:58 PM

You need to wash the deck with some flat black. That will give it some depth. The motorized subs are allways kinda out of scale when it comes to the details like railings because they have to be able to deal with the forces of water. I built the Acadamy diving sub and had to deal with the "functioning" periscope as its rigged to the diving planes. Nice job overall !  Will be waiting to see your next  build.

 Dont worry about the thumbprint, paint it Rust , and call it "Battle Damage"

  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by Hokey on Tuesday, February 5, 2013 1:02 PM

Thanks! I did use a black/brown oil paint (greatly thinned) wash on the deck and noticed that the recesses and raised areas had more depth right away but then the wash seemed to all "flow" together and not stay around raised/recessed areas where they seemed pretty cool at first.

  • Member since
    July 2012
  • From: Douglas AZ
Posted by littletimmy on Tuesday, February 5, 2013 1:16 PM

I would use a water baised paint and just let it flow all over the deck. then go over it with a clean dry brush and pick up the paint just on the surface  leaving the paint to "puddle" in the drainage slots. Dont rust the deck as its wood coated in some waterproofing substance. You can go over the wood with a dark tan/brown mix with an almost dry brush and that deck will look like a million bucks! Just hit it in spots though.  Your just looking to make "scuff" marks here and there. Especially around the deck gun as thats where the most activity would be.

 Dont worry about the thumbprint, paint it Rust , and call it "Battle Damage"

  • Member since
    July 2012
  • From: Douglas AZ
Posted by littletimmy on Tuesday, February 5, 2013 1:18 PM

Water based.   I cant spel worthe a dang!  

 Dont worry about the thumbprint, paint it Rust , and call it "Battle Damage"

  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by Hokey on Tuesday, February 5, 2013 1:21 PM

LOL isnt posting fun! Great tips.  I'll use on the next boat.  I've sidetracked for a few weeks to build a Discovery space shuttle I've had for years but I'll be following your points on the next boat for sure.  The 581 has already been mailed to a cousin as a gift.

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Spartanburg, SC
Posted by subfixer on Tuesday, February 5, 2013 1:25 PM

Just a little observation. Pay attention to seams and ejector pin indentations.

I'm from the government and I'm here to help.

  • Member since
    July 2012
  • From: Douglas AZ
Posted by littletimmy on Tuesday, February 5, 2013 1:26 PM

Isnt posting fun? We ve been playing "tag " for the past  20 minutes between this thread and your other one . I cant type that fast! LOL.

 Dont worry about the thumbprint, paint it Rust , and call it "Battle Damage"

  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by Hokey on Tuesday, February 5, 2013 1:28 PM

subfixer

Just a little observation. Pay attention to seams and ejector pin indentations.

Can you elaborate a bit? Thanks!

  • Member since
    July 2012
  • From: Douglas AZ
Posted by littletimmy on Tuesday, February 5, 2013 1:30 PM

I noticed the "pin" mark on the rudder. A little putty wil fix that.

 Dont worry about the thumbprint, paint it Rust , and call it "Battle Damage"

  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by Hokey on Tuesday, February 5, 2013 1:32 PM

littletimmy

I noticed the "pin" mark on the rudder. A little putty will fix that.

Aha! Yes I saw that.  I also used quite a bit of putty filling holes/gaps from the motorized setup but see where I could have done lots more and better sanding as well. Thanks for the help!
  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Spartanburg, SC
Posted by subfixer on Tuesday, February 5, 2013 1:34 PM

OK, just for instance; check the picture of the rudder above. Do you see that circle on it? That is an ejector pin mark and should be filled and smoothed over. And in the same picture, there is a seam that runs around the circumfrence of the rudder. a little bit of smoothing with a sanding stick would make it go away. All in all, you did a really nice job on  a model designed to motor around in the water.

I'm from the government and I'm here to help.

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Spartanburg, SC
Posted by subfixer on Tuesday, February 5, 2013 1:35 PM

See, you didn't need my opinion in the first place.Big Smile

I'm from the government and I'm here to help.

  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by Hokey on Tuesday, February 5, 2013 1:39 PM

subfixer

OK, just for instance; check the picture of the rudder above. Do you see that circle on it? That is an ejector pin mark and should be filled and smoothed over. And in the same picture, there is a seam that runs around the circumfrence of the rudder. a little bit of smoothing with a sanding stick would make it go away. All in all, you did a really nice job on  a model designed to motor around in the water.

Perfect! Thanks for the help! I really appreciate the pointers.  
  • Member since
    July 2012
  • From: Douglas AZ
Posted by littletimmy on Tuesday, February 5, 2013 1:45 PM

Now you'v gone and done it!  When I get home I'm going to have to go into my unlit shop (I havent connected the power yet) and pull out my Revell 1/72nd sub and just sit there in the dark and drool!

 Dont worry about the thumbprint, paint it Rust , and call it "Battle Damage"

  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by Hokey on Tuesday, February 5, 2013 1:52 PM

littletimmy

Now you'v gone and done it!  When I get home I'm going to have to go into my unlit shop (I havent connected the power yet) and pull out my Revell 1/72nd sub and just sit there in the dark and drool!

Why not build it?  Do you have a new model building area?  I have that kit too but will wait til I'm better before tackling. I have these in my stash right now:
U 505 1/200 Revell Museum of Science & Industry BUILT 10-2011
U 581 1/144 Modelcraft VII-C motorized BUILT 02/2013
U 107 1/350 Mirage IXB BUILT 02/2013
U ??? 1/350 HobbyBoss VII-C
U    9   1/144 Revell II-B or U20,23
U 505 1/144 Revell 1988 kit but not correct. Hull/Wintergarden are like VII-C
U  47  1/125 Revell
U 213 1/144 Revell VII-D Minenleger or U214,5,6,7,8
U 292 1/144 Revell VII-C/41 or U318, 992, 1004
U  99  1/125 Revell VII-B
U ??? 1/150 Academy IX-B motorized (ugh)
U 571 1/144 MiniHobbyModels VII-C
U 511 1/200 MiniHobbyModels IX-C
U 581 1/150 LEE VII-C Motorized (ugh again!)
U ??? 1/144 ICM IIB
U ??? 1/72 Revell VII-C
SS-212 1/144 Gato 1941
Nautilus 16" 20,000 Leagues Under The Sea resin
Discovery Space Shuttle 1/144 (I'm just starting this to get it out of the way!)
  • Member since
    July 2012
  • From: Douglas AZ
Posted by littletimmy on Tuesday, February 5, 2013 2:05 PM

O.K. we will start with the 1/125 scale u-47 and u-99. These are from old molds and the fit of the parts is terreble! you may want to wait to build these. The Acadamy is ok I built mine to work just be prepaired to "fiddle" with the periscope as thats what makes the sub dive. Also be prepaired to add ballast . The batteries tend to make the sub list ALOTT!  The best ones are the 1-144 th scale Revell subs. Try your hand at the type VII-D. I went with U- 217 just because I liked the splinter camoflauge. Check my post in the ship forum U-217. I have two 1/72 Revells. We should plan a  Build together and see what happens.  If the U-47 kit is the one with an interior you will be dissapointed. It's not even close to accurate. But it still looks cool when done.

 Dont worry about the thumbprint, paint it Rust , and call it "Battle Damage"

  • Member since
    July 2012
  • From: Douglas AZ
Posted by littletimmy on Tuesday, February 5, 2013 2:17 PM

The rest of your list is unknown territory to me. I havent built any of the rest but would love to see the Nautilus kit. Post some pre build picture's of it when your ready to assemble it.

 Dont worry about the thumbprint, paint it Rust , and call it "Battle Damage"

  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by Hokey on Tuesday, February 5, 2013 2:17 PM

As I suspected actually. I have peeked in on some. I prolly won't build the Acadamy motorized and just fill holes, etc as I did with the 581.

I do want to build one with that camo paint job. Do you have pics after weathering? And reading your post it seems u had a crash on your boat models?

Ya the 47 is the interior view kit. :(

Mite be fun to do at the same time!

  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by Hokey on Tuesday, February 5, 2013 2:25 PM

Happen to have it handy!


Nautilus by hotkey, on Flickr

  • Member since
    July 2012
  • From: Douglas AZ
Posted by littletimmy on Tuesday, February 5, 2013 2:36 PM

< Wiping drool from corners of mouth>  Now I HAVE to get the nautilus too! Yes my recent move took a toll on my sub fleet. They were crushed by their own display case in the moving truck. It also killed my Revell schnellboat and my Pyro models river boat which is now in more pieces than when it was still in the box new! You should try the acadamy sub. It goes like a bat out of hell when you launch it. I couldnt keep up with mine and some kids at the pond thought they had scored untill I came running up!

 Dont worry about the thumbprint, paint it Rust , and call it "Battle Damage"

  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by Hokey on Tuesday, February 5, 2013 3:05 PM

littletimmy

< Wiping drool from corners of mouth>  Now I HAVE to get the nautilus too! Yes my recent move took a toll on my sub fleet. They were crushed by their own display case in the moving truck. It also killed my Revell schnellboat and my Pyro models river boat which is now in more pieces than when it was still in the box new! You should try the acadamy sub. It goes like a bat out of hell when you launch it. I couldnt keep up with mine and some kids at the pond thought they had scored untill I came running up!

LOL I see! OK Maybe I will. My grand kids would get a charge outta that!
BTW u consider adding aftermarket parts for 1/72 like http://nautilusmodels.com/orderpage-USA.htm
  • Member since
    July 2012
  • From: Douglas AZ
Posted by littletimmy on Tuesday, February 5, 2013 3:26 PM

Got the Nautilus wood deck . Cost  $40  and the sub only cost $79! Thinking about getting the White ensine torpedo loading gear.  Also thinking of making one of them into an R.C. But if I get it wrong I'm going swimming!

 Dont worry about the thumbprint, paint it Rust , and call it "Battle Damage"

  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by Hokey on Tuesday, February 5, 2013 4:06 PM
In going to start investing in some of these items. I saw Eduard metal etch details parts too that look cool. I'll have $3-400 in it by the time I get ready!!!! Don't tell my wife.

Sorry u lost those treasures. Lottsa hours. But let's u build some again looks like.

I think I read on this forum that a 1/72 U505 is coming soon.
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