Charles' Revell 1:196 USS Constitution (Finished)

I hung the jolly boats based on the rigging setup outlined in the instruction set for the 1:96 kit.  The instructions in the 1:196 kit only include the lines attaching the boats to the davits, and leave out the lines running up to the mizzen mast.

I also adding the lashings holding the sheer pole to the davits:

I just realized you can catch the mainbrace in this shot.  More on that later.

Hmmm.  Photo didn't come thru.  Here it is again . . . 

Here's the boat hanging off of the stern davits.  Sorry for the blurriness:

You can also see the stern chasers (with painted tompions) peeking thru.

This is a fairly close-in shot, showing the work on the lifts and braces.  A few comments:

• I used light tan thread for the lifts, and used a heavier thread for the main yard lifts on each mast
• I used gray thread for the braces, and then dry brushed with black paint, very lightly, to try to add some visual dimension.
• I waxed the heck out of the braces, and held them across a hot light bulb, in an effort to really get the wax in there.  I wanted to be able to reflect the natural hang or drape of the brace lines, particularly on a ship where the sails haven't been bent to the yards.
• Oh yeah, I had decided to leave the sails off of the build.  The pre-formed plastic ones that come with the kit just didn't work for me, and I had no confidence in my ability to get the look/scale/feel of sails right on the first throw . . . particularly at this scale

We're actually nearing the end, folks.  Thanks for following along.

I mentioned the mainbrace earlier.  In so many photos I've seen, I've been struck by the way the natural weight of the cable generates a graceful drape on lines that aren't under tension.  I really wanted to have this look on my Conny, and the place where it seemed most evident in the real world was the main brace.

So, for these lines, I literally went the melted-beeswax route.  I melted the beeswax in a double-ramekin double boiler rig in the microwave, dropped the thread in and stirred it around, then removed and quickly dragged it across another wax cake to wring off the excess.  I quickly placed on the model . . . in this case, from the stern bumpkin to the main yard . . . and molded the shape till it looked right to my eye.

I tweaked a bit, and then wrapped and glued to the model.

You could probably make a case that I over-did the drape effect, but to my eye, and at this scale, it felt right.  I think it was one of those cases where you have to exaggerate the effect until it's noticeable.  Or something like that.

And it was at this point that I realized one of the most important lessons of all--the proper time to mount your ship to the pedestals and display board is as soon as you finish the hull.

The most nervous I've been in years was drilling the two holes in the keel of what was very nearly a finished model. You can bet I took my sweet time about it. I used the pin vise to start the holes, and stepped up thru 4 different drill bits before I was done.

So, here are some glory shots of the finished, mounted USS Constitution, 1:196 scale . . . 

Thanks!

Charles

Charles,

I want to add my Welcome Aboard also.  Your Constitution is coming along nicely so please keep uploading your work.  I also built this ship any number of times in my youth and a year and a half ago with my oldest son.  It was for a school presentation and he did an awesome job on the build and the presentation.

I love the finished Constitution and wonder what is on the ways next.

Steve

Impressive first build! I am more impressed by the lessons learned! What's next?

Bill

Steve--what a great story of sharing this hobby with your son!  Love that, and would love to see some pics of what his Conny looked like.

Bill--well, I currently have the 1:96 version of the Constitution on my workbench.  So far, I haven't done much more than stare at it, and re-read Evan's and Arnie's build logs on this site.    I'm trying to figure out the best path forward for my current skill set.  I don't want to get so over-ambitious that I end up frustrated, but I do want to look for ways (as I did on this build) to expand and enhance upon a mostly OOB build.  

I've ordered some styrene stock, and have decided to build up the gun ports and bulwarks on the inner hull.  I'm also considering ordering the Bluejacket PE set for the Constitution, but part of me wants to see what I can accomplish with the parts provided, and continue to use all of this as a learning process.

I have decided that I will build the shrouds and ratlines from scratch again, mostly because I now know how to properly do that, and I want to correct the historical record!

Once I get started in earnest, I'll post some updates in a new build log.  I think.    

And thanks again to all for the great feedback . . . I couldn't have asked for a better welcome.  

Charles

Beautiful work!

Mike

Thanks Mike!

Nicely done CP. I will be watching for your next WIP

Thanks Arnie.  My next project is, gulp, the 1:96 Constitution.  I've been following your log (as well as Evan's) and have enough notes and thoughts to make my head swirl.

I'm a bit frozen right now . . . I had decided at one point NOT to build up the bulwarks and gun ports, and went ahead and painted the inner hull white.  Now, I've changed my mind, so I have to take all that paint off for a good join with the styrene stock I'll use for the build up.

In any event, I'll get that done in the next couple of days, and once I start the work in earnest, I'll open up a build log.  As I think I mentioned earlier, since this is literally the second ship kit I will have ever tackled, I'm thinking of this as an OOB "plus" project.  In other words, I'm going to try to resist the temptation to replace the kit parts with 3rd-party pieces (Bluejacket PE, scaledecks, etc.) and see what I can craft by using the kit as provided, PLUS the occasional buildup/scratch work.

I don't plan to be a zealot about that . . . but it's sort of my organizing principle as I sit here today.  

As it will be only your second build, going OOB is probably your best choice. The 1/96 Connie is quite a complex build even OOB. I would recommend however that you consider using third party blocks for the rigging. It would not add significantly to the rigor of the build, but would present a much nicer finish.

I agree with Arnie. The 1/96 Revell kit is one of the best and most complex plastic sailing ship kits on the market, and I don't recommend it to newcomers. On the other hand, there aren't many sailing ships on the market these days that I WOULD recommend for starters. By my definition, a good newcomer's kit is a small ship on a relatively large scale. In terms of what's currently on the market, the two that come to mind are the beautiful Revell Viking ship (an excellent replica of the famous Gokstad Ship), and the Zvezda/Revell Hanseatic Cog.

But if you want to tackle the 1/96 Constitution, Arnie is right: replacing the blocks is a good idea that will make quite a difference. It won't be cheap, but there's no reason to buy all of the little boogers at once. I'm a fan of the cast Britannia blocks from Bluejacket ( www.bluejacketinc.com ). A new firm called Syren Ship Models ( www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com ) also sells boxwood and pearwood blocks that look superb, though I haven't tried them yet.

The styrene deadeye/lanyard parts also can stand replacement, but I DEFINITELY don't recommend a ship-rigged eighteenth-century warship as a training exercise for the tricky, highly repetitive task of rigging deadeye lanyards.

Incidentally, in well over fifty years of reading about this great ship, I never saw a reference to her as "the Connie" till I joined this Forum. It's not for me to tell other people what names and nicknames they use, but I confess that one makes me gulp when I see it.

Gentlemen--

That sounds like good advice to me regarding the blocks.  And I also agree, Professor, that using the provided plastic deadeye simulacra is the way to go . . . I can spend my time carefully painting and weathering these pieces, rather than slowly losing my mind as I slog up the repetitive learning curve of rigging these by hand.

I also uncovered another avenue perusing this forum earlier today, and if you have an opinion, I'd love to hear it . . . namely, converting the Jolly Roger kit to the HMS Surprise.  I'll admit this is an idea that appeals to me for a couple reasons:

• I love the thought of getting to know the ins and outs of the Surpise, and finding a way to slowly and meticulously bring her to life
• It seems like an intermediate step that fits appropriately between where I am and the 1:96 Constitution.

Finally, point taken on the "Connie" as a nickname.  From reading your posts on other topics, you've already convinced me to stop using "build" as a noun, John, so I'll continue to take correction from you on matters both nautical and grammatical.  

Well Charles, you just made my day and week! For two of my profound pontifications to be taken seriously by one person....

Several Forum members have at least started to turn the old Lindberg La Flore (aka "Jolly Roger") into HMS Surprise. I don't remember any of those models being finished, but a Forum search on "Surprise" should bring up some useful stuff, Just bear in mind that (a) the two actual ships didn't really look much like each other. And (2) that Lindberg kit is really old. The little 1/192 Revell Constitution is arguably a better kit.

I wish some company would make an up-to-date plastic sailing revenue cutter. Or fishing schooner. Or a colonial American merchantman (like the Model Shipways Sultana). Or a pilot schooner. There are plenty of good subjects for newcomers out there. But the plastic kit manufacturers gave up on sailing ships, to all intents and purposes, more than thirty years ago. Now, if you'd be interested in switching over to wood kits....

If you do want to go the Surprise route, there's a book you need to get: The Frigate Surprise, by Brian Lavery. Unfortunately it's out of print, and used copies on the web are expensive. But that book contains just about everything there is to know about that ship.

Thanks John!  Glad I made your week!

And I'm very intrigued by wood kits.  Frankly, this journey started for me with a desire to build a model of either the Surprise or the Sophie, simply because I've spent so much time "inside" them courtesy of multiple re-reads of the O'Brian books, and thought of this as a way to extend the experience AND learn more about the elegance and pragmatic design elements of Napoleonic Era sailing ships.

Most of the wooden kits I've seen are priced in the hundreds of dollars, so I'm trying to stick to a skills development track that doesn't put me in the middle of something I'm not ready for, with the resultant frustration.  The shorter way of saying that is that I don't want to end up with an expensive pile of firewood.  

I had a blast with my little Constitution, and I figure if I can get one or two more plastic kits up on the shelf and I'm still having fun, then moving on to wood will make fiscal and developmental sense.  

And when that time comes, I'd love input on the right place to start.  The Sultana looks intriguing, as do ships like the Niagara or the Syren.  

Also, sticking to the O'Brian train of thought . . . I've been wondering if the wood kit for the HMS Snake could be modified into a Sophie.  I don't have all my notes in front of me, but I think I tracked down that the Snake is of the same class as the fictional Sophie.  There are some difficulties with the fact that O'Brian gave his ship a quarterdeck--which I've seen described as an impossibility--that I'd have to figure out (or track down where somebody else already figured it out for me!), but that could be fun.

Anyway, thanks for the conversation, gentlemen . . . you make this forum a fun place to hang out.

I wouldn't recommend a plank-on-bulkhead kit to break into wood models. But I would recommend the Model Shipways solid-hull Sultana. Big scale, decent materials, good, well-researched plans, and an attractive little ship. The rig is just right for getting experience: almost every piece of rigging in an eighteenth-century ship is there,  And you can read, on the Model Expo website, an excellent detailed practicing, by Chack Passaro, that will guide you every step of the way.

I would recommend replacing the kit blocks. Mr. Passaro is the owner (and, I think, sole employee of the aforementioned Syren Ship Model Company, and a few packs of his blocks would do the job.

I'd also recommend replacing some of the cast fittings -especially the swivel guns. They're pretty crude and blobby. But Mr. Passaro offers nice, turned brass replacements.

Almost every week Model Expo puts some of its kits on sale. If you're patient, you can probably pick up a Sultana for $50,

I'd suggest reading through that online practicum. That'll give you a good idea of what to expect. There's also a Syren instruction book on that website, which will make the difference between the two forms of construction obvious. Incidentally, I've got a Syren in my stash, in queue behind my Gloucester fishing schooner. It's one of the best wood kits I've seen.

Later edit:  earlier I was typing on my phone, which doesn't let me type italics.  I've gone back and added them with my Mac.

Charles_Purvis

Thanks Arnie.  My next project is, gulp, the 1:96 Constitution.  I've been following your log (as well as Evan's) and have enough notes and thoughts to make my head swirl.

I'm a bit frozen right now . . . I had decided at one point NOT to build up the bulwarks and gun ports, and went ahead and painted the inner hull white.  Now, I've changed my mind, so I have to take all that paint off for a good join with the styrene stock I'll use for the build up.

Its instructive- you'll get a feel for how the ship framing scheme works, why the ports are staggered the way they are, how the deck apertures line up etc.

Before you do any scraping, try superglue. There wont be any stress on the bonds and it you are using basswood, it should bond just fine.

Thanks GM.  I think I may be a little turned around, but I'm not quite able to visualize what you're recommending.  You sound enthusiastic about it, so I want to make sure I get it right!  

I've been envisioning some modifications along the lines of what Evan and Arnie have done, by building up the gun ports on the gun deck, and the bulwarks (complete with rivets) on the spar deck.  I note that Evan also laid in the ship's knees on the gun deck, and has also cut out some reveals on the spar deck to show the timbers underneath.  

What you're describing sounds more like that rendition, but I got a bit lost.  If it's not too much trouble, can you help me understand your vision here, either on the board or in a message.

Thanks again!

Also, Professor Tilley, I've spent the last hour or so reading thru the practicum on the Sultana.  Now THAT makes for interesting stuff.  

I'm intrigued, and I'm trying to sort thru just how much working on plastic kits prepares me for working on wood kits.  Depending on which angle you look at it from, the Venn diagram might not have as big an overlap as I had assumed.

I fear it's time for me to admit that I have no idea what a Venn diagram is. But there's no reason to be intimidated by a solid-hull wood kit. If you can build a plastic frigate as nicely as that Constitution, you can handle the MS Sultana.

I will say that I only build wooden ships solid hull .

I frankly see no point in POB unless you are a master wooden ship modeler working from scratch with original plans. Because that's what plans show- stations or frame sections that you can use to recreate the shape from 2D information.

In fact I would accuse most of the POB companies, Blue Jacket, Model Shipways and Model Expo's carry through of the older companies excepted; of taking the easy way out and setting up laser cutting NC machines to replicate drawings they buy and then off to the modeler with an unsolvable jigsaw puzzle.

But if someone has set up the ability to make a "buck" out of solid material, what a benefit!

It can be sheathed if you want to, or smoothed and painted.

The only serious issues I've encountered with solid hull wood models are the bulwarks.

Usually they are too short on height and too thick.

Frankly I'd rather build them up from the deck.

Really if you want to get into wooden boats start with a good little Model Shipways kit. They are all over eBay..

I am currently about ready for my "Elsie".

In the meantime gluing wood all over the Revell America.

A solid plastic boat.

I second the Sultana. Or if you really want to challenge yourself the Fair American.

My first wood model was Gjoa.It was pretty simple, but I got it done. Dad has it in his study still, although he wouldn't be able to tell you who built it.

Gjoa used to be out at Land's End here in San Francisco until it was given back to the Norwegians.

jtilley

I fear it's time for me to admit that I have no idea what a Venn diagram is. But there's no reason to be intimidated by a solid-hull wood kit. If you can build a plastic frigate as nicely as that Constitution, you can handle the MS Sultana.

it's a good point in fact maybe one of the best questions ever asked here.

in other words, examine the  commonality between wood and plastic ship models.

John, let's PM . I think this is a really worthwhile discussion and I have some thoughts.

Charles  - A wonderful effort on your Connie build... (Okay - that was just to pull Tilley's tail a bit!)

Very few folks actually complete an entire sailing ship model including rigging. Well done.

Evan

Charles_Purvis

Thanks GM.  I think I may be a little turned around, but I'm not quite able to visualize what you're recommending.  You sound enthusiastic about it, so I want to make sure I get it right!  

I've been envisioning some modifications along the lines of what Evan and Arnie have done, by building up the gun ports on the gun deck, and the bulwarks (complete with rivets) on the spar deck.  I note that Evan also laid in the ship's knees on the gun deck, and has also cut out some reveals on the spar deck to show the timbers underneath.  

What you're describing sounds more like that rendition, but I got a bit lost.  If it's not too much trouble, can you help me understand your vision here, either on the board or in a message.

Thanks again!

So yes Evan does his exposure thing, beyond my abilities.

Here on Victory I made width measurements of the ribs from the drawings in Longridge and used three sizes of basswood. Basswood btw I believe is the generic term for Linden. In any case it's great stuff.

GM--thanks for posting those pics, I get exactly what you're saying now.  I was over-complicating things considerably.  I may end up moving forward using styrene, simply because I've already purchased the strips, but I'll check Hobby Lobby and Michael's on my next trip for basswood.

Evan--you're very kind.  Thanks for stopping by, and for the words of encouragement here and on your own diary.  You guys are helping me build the determination I need to take on the 1:96, and I'll get started--and post a new diary--here shortly.

Cheers!

Charles,

First, I would recommend the Lindberg so-called pirate ship series as a way of gaining experience with plastic sailing ships. As John rightly states, these are old but they also represent (to a degree) real ships. One is a decent, small-scale Wappen Von Hamburg. Another represents the French Saint Louis, another the British Sovereign of the Seas, and you have already mentioned La Flore. Several of these models include full gun decks instead of the little platforms found on the Revell Constitution. None have the molded-on spar deck gun carriages found on the Revell kit. These Lindberg kits can be said to be more advanced that the Revell kit. Just get rid of the "pirate" stuff.

I agree that there is nothing to fear with wood kits. I would get a copy of Model Expo's how-to book called "Jackstay". It will introduce you to the world of wooden ship model building in an easy to understand manner. I actually have several copies if you would be interested. I will send it as a gift.

Finally, I also agree with John in that the Model Expo kit of the Sultana is a beautiful beginner's kit that is quite satisfying even for more experienced builders. Also, check eBay's listings for Model Expo and Bluejacket kits; sometimes you can find a nice kit cheaply.

Bill Morrison

Well, I looked up "Venn diagram." I had of course seen such things many times, bot I didn't know the name for them.Learn something every day.

I've been through the "wood versus plastic" argument so many times that I'm frankly sick of it. Both materials are useful for many tasks in model building, and which one a modeler uses for a particular purpose is the Modeler's business.

My own approach is to use whatever material seems best for a particular job. My little scratchbuilt Hancock contains lots of styrene, lots of wood (of half a dozen species), and at least a dozen other materials ranging from brass (guns) to silkspan tissue (furled sails) to Milliput epoxy putty ("carvings"). To me, learning to work with all these materials is one of the pleasures of the hobby.

Two materials are on my no-no list: lead, because it's one of the most unstable substances on earth, and balsa wood, because I hate it.

In my opinion many model builders shoot themselves in the feet by insisting on using one material for everything. There used to be a widespread attitude among model railroaders that anything made of plastic was somehow inferior. And I've known lots of ship modelers who literally turn up their noses at styrene. ("We don't let plastic modelers in our club. They've got their own clubs.") And too many people who've been raised on plastic kits seem to think they have to make some magic leap in order to make something out of wood. They act almost like they're scared of it.

I'm not a plastic modeler or a wood modeler. I'm a ship modeler.