1/350 USS Indianapolis CA-35 (Academy) COMPLETE

Great technique on the ensign. It is too bad that aftermarket companies haven't picked up on this. Flags, pennants, and ensigns are rarely represesented in an authentic manner. .

Thank you subfixer!

After a night and day's drying, I should be back on track and will paint the blue and AB the seafoam color in the wake tonight. I'n not concerned with the brush strokes in the medium as I brushed in the direction of the wind, and there will be a considerable amount of foam on the waves. It should look natural (I hope).

By the way, I wasn't happy at all with the Stars and Stripes that came with the kit, it was a flat Academy decal, yuck! Plus it has 50 stars instead of 48 (which you probably wouldn't notice anyway, but it bothered me). So I tried a method I found in the ModelWarship.com forum. I found a suitable image of a 48 star flag and downloaded it. I used "Paint" to re-size it, copy it and reverse it for the other side 

Then I printed the image and taped some white wrapping tissue paper over the printed image (I printed first so I would know where to place the tissue paper). I re-feed the paper/tissue paper into the printer, printed again, and cut out the outline. I didn't want such a tattered flag as the Indy had just come out of the shipyards and was more than likely flying a new one, however after re-sizing to 1/350 and cutting it out, it didn't look tattered, just slightly use. And the best part is that it's correct and much easier to make look like its in a gale force wind.

If you want to make some flying colors other that the decal that come with the kit, I highly recommend this approach. Sorry, I don't have pics of my actual flag yet.

Steve

I am glad I came back to the site in time to witness this fine piece of work. Well done!

Well, I didn't like the way it was turning out. The sawdust was too lumpy, so I did what Chris Flodburg suggests and went over it with pieces of paper. I think it looks much better. I will paint it again when I dries. I'm really anxious to get to the cotton stage.

Steve

Groot,

I applied the gel last night and I'm waiting for it to dry, which could take some time. If the blue does not show through satisfactorily, I will repaint it. That will be a lesson learned. Pictures of the Philippine Sea show a dark navy blue tint to the water, although like you said, a cloudy day would add a hint of gray to the scene. I not sure my painting skills are quite up to that task for that much variation, but I'm sure giving it a try. My hope is to duplicate seas like this.

A lot of churn and foam in windy conditions. Yes, I intend to show a bow splash on the starboard side which is blowing over the bow, also a smaller one just aft of the hanger, with water running off the hanger deck and stern. My vision is pretty precise, I just need to transfer that vision to the diorama.

Steve

MC,

 Wow, that looks good!  If you're going for the grey seas kinda look that you get on rough weather days, I would actually not paint until the gel medium was down.  Water just doesn't visually seem to have much depth on days like that.  Do you intend to do the bow spray as well?  It looks like he used a couple cotton balls, but I have no clue how to get one somewhat glossy to look like water.  

Groot

Groot,

You can get it in a few different degrees from clear to cloudy and flat to gloss. I was debating whether I should paint first as well. So I just finished the blue, and painted some turquoise in the churn. Once that dries, I'll paint on the gel then apply the cotton.

I can't wait to see how it turns out either. This is my goal. I hope I can reproduce a shadow of Chris' work 

DKM Z-30 Zerstorer 
by Chris Flodberg

MC,

 I haven't used it before, but is the acrylic gel medium clear?  If you paint your blue and turquoise on top of the Mod Podge and then apply the acrylic over it, it might give a nice appearance of water depth, then paint the acrylic white for the foam at the top.  Just a thought.  I can't wait to see how this turns out!

Groot

OK, here I go with the base, this will be the first time I try this method.

First I made the base out of an old piece of house siding and made poster board walls and used hot glue to attach them to the sides. I also stiffened the walls with some cardboard backing.

Then I placed the ship inside the box and laid in sawdust, and formed some crests and troughs. I then squirted some thin CA onto the sawdust to stabilize it. That worked remarkably well but use an enormous amount of glue. 

Once dried, I applied Mod Podge for a base for the acrylic gel.

I will use the acrylic gel to form the wave peaks and smooth the texture. After the gel will be applied, I'll paint dark blue mixed with turquoise at the foam. After the paint will come the cotton, but I'll show that when I get there.

That's all for now.

Steve

Thanks Groot,

I went over the Hull with a combination of  gray and rust pastells.The streaks were created with an oil wash of burnt umber.

I didn't want to go too far with the weathering as she just came out of repair/refit. The diorama will depict her in late July, after she delivered parts for the Little Boy bomb at Tinian . As you know, one month in the Pacific will do a job on a paint job.

Steve

I really like the hull weathering you showed above.  It looks just right for a ship that's been at sea for a little bit.  What did you use for the dry brushing and dark streaking?

Groot

constructor

did you hand paint the small decks?

Yes. I sprayed the hull and deck first, and pre sprayed the superstructure decks and bulkheads, although I had to go back and touch-up with a brush. The small decks were hand painted with Vallejo. That stuff really brushes nice, I hate to spray with it though.

With the weathering, any brush strokes, if any, were covered up.
I see that your building the Missouri. Good luck with it, I don't know what scale it is, but it should be a fun build. 

Steve

did you hand paint the small decks?

It is indeed some piece of work!

A photo etch bender would come in handy with the small and long stuff..

Great!Looking forward to seeing the completed model!

I'll show the making of the base and water and some close-ups of the ship, but it may diminish the impact of the whole thing to show the finished ship out if it's base. It does look good though, and I'm never impressed with my work. I was putting some final touches to the weathering last night with my optivisor on, you know how you don't see the whole picture with those on, I took them off to look at the whole thing and Bamm! I was thinking to myself, I did that? Too bad some of it will be hidden by the water and spray.

It won't be long now, the hard part is finished, Yea!

Yeah!You dont want to spoil the surprise!

I have completed a considerable amount of work to The Indy this weekend.  I added the superstructures, railings,  small boats and weathering.  I still need to add the Low Frequency long wire antennas and HF whip antennas. After, I will start on the base.

I have to say, I am really pleased with it.

I will hold off on pictures of her until I'm finished so I don't ruin the final reveal.

Steve

Hi gents,

Here's the latest on the Indy. I will be able to get  a bit done this weekend, but I just wanted to post an update. I will install the superstructures, rigging and railing next.

Steve

Steve,

She is really coming together now. Beautiful work and thanks again for posting the WIP. I have the Trumpeter 1944 version of the Indie that hopefully I can build as nicely as yours.

Steve

It just looks scary. If you have an optivisor and a pair of needle nose tweezers, it's not too hard. I place a white bed sheet under my work area so WHEN I drop a piece, it's easy to find. I also set a drop of medium CA on a piece of scrap plastic or something and just touch the piece to the drop to attach it. Alternatively, I will use a toothpick to apply the slightest amount of CA if needed.

I'm really glad I got the PE set. It really makes a difference.

Steve

Awesome work!

However,you have scare me a bit with the photo-etch. I bought the Trumpeter Baltimore in 1/700, along with the Tom's Modelworks pe set. One of the radars has nine(9) bends in it,and its as small as the width of my pinky finger nail.

She looks great!  It's amazing how much a good PE set can improve a ship model when the PE is so well done.

Groot

Mike F6F

 How much trouble did you have marking the demarcation line?

Non at all. The kit/ship has a "line" from the 01 deck half way to the bow that is easily masked. The two piece hull is sectioned at the boot top so that's no problem. All in all, it's a very nice kit, although I'm glad I got the PE set as I don't think it would look half as good without it.

Steve

Steve,

Looks good.

Isn't camo Measure 12 fun?  How much trouble did you have marking the demarcation line?

A little more done this weekend. I painted the Hull (I still need the black boot top stripe) and sat the sub-assemblies on the deck to see how everything fits. I am' very pleased with the results. I'll take everything back off and do some more deck and hull painting, install AA guns, the catapult , rigging and railings, but I just wanted to give an update.

Steve

Thanks Steve's

I will be posting soon, I'm painting the hull now and will be installing the sub-assemblies.

Steve

Steve,

Just wanted to let you know that you are doing an excellent job on the Indianapolis. I cannot wait to see the next installment.

Steve

Steve,

Just read through you build.  You are doing a great job!!  Can't wait to see more!!

Steve