Capn- I'm only aware of one 1/350 plastic BB 39, the one that got sold as Banner/Trumpeter/ Hobby Boss. And there are all kinds of AM sets for it. Somewhere back in my paint locker there's one, probably has $ 60 worth of PE in the box, from a time when i could justify spending that kind of money.
I suppose one problem in getting this type of ship as a kit is that BB's in the USN seemed to come in classes of only two or three, following one after the other.Why that is would be a fascinating study. Perhaps they sost so much money that some amount of lessons learned/ re-invention was always worth it. Or that "the other guys" came out with a "10 14 inchers in five turrets", so you'd design a "12 14 inchers in four turrets", they'd do 8 15 inchers in four turrets, and so on.
I'm impressed that there seems to be a stream, or at least a steady trickle, of WW1 or pre WW2 battleship models in the USN coming along.
I agree with all of the above; this is a nostalgia build. I'm going to make a guess based on memory however, which is why I suggest not getting PE. Kits of this vintage were not designed for PE, for obvious reasons. So all of the older Revell kits for instance have a LOT of molded on detail that has to be removed, and that can be a really big task requiring very good workmanship and patience. This one no doubt is the same. For instance, I'll bet the main deck stanchions and life lines are molded as a solid wall with detail relief on the outboard side. To substitute, not just add, PE; you need to carefull cut off the entire run, which in turn exposes a joint between the main deck and the hull on the top (the deck) that we weren't supposed to pay any attention to. So you put a lot of work into fudging up a decent looking waterway, without mangling the cast on deck plank detail.
EDIT: I just looked at the instructions on Revell.com. Yikes!!! True what I guessed about the lifelines, and for that matter all of the other bridge railings.
But... and it's a big one- this kit has one of the most infamous (IMO) construction details ever devised for a plastic model. The deck houses have a horizontal seam between parts, midway up the bulkhead between decks and centered through the middle of the portholes. Old Revell ship modelers know this one well. Revell did this to be able to cast the portholes as open holes, which is silly. Defeating that detail is doable, but it takes a lot of work. My last such model, the T2 tanker from the Mission series, I found that the most reasonable approach was to make a rubbing of each part, trace the decks, and just replace each with quickly sliced up sheet styrene.
All of which I'll summarize. I make these suggestions NOT as a curmudgeon, I hope, but as a promise that once you get through this little kit, it gets better. Much better. This model has an undeniable "coolness" factor, more so as you learn more about ships and see it as a particular type of ship from a particular time.
Build it, build it. And think about it tomorrow morning, please.
Bill