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Revell 1/72 Type IXC U-boat Completed

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  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: 37deg 40.13' N 95deg 29.10'W
Posted by scottrc on Thursday, September 15, 2016 3:47 PM

Looks like your having a lot of fun on this project MC, wonderful results on the oil can effect.  It really paid off.

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Thursday, September 15, 2016 4:12 PM

Looks great Steve Beer

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    August 2014
  • From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posted by goldhammer on Thursday, September 15, 2016 4:20 PM

MC - Looks even better with primer on it.

 

The Squadron book on Gato's shows a couple of pics ( Growler and Sand Lance ) with the dimpling on the forward outer hull as well.

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Groton, CT
Posted by warshipguy on Friday, September 16, 2016 6:21 AM

Have you seen the Blue Ridge Upper Pressure Hull for the TYpe VII?  It certainly can be adapted to the Type IX.

Bill

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Friday, September 16, 2016 9:30 AM
 

No I haven't. I just installed some cardboard tubing and sprayed it black. An upper pressure hull would have been nice. I am close to looking into some AM AA guns at the moment. It depends on how good I can make the stock ones look.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

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  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Groton, CT
Posted by warshipguy on Friday, September 16, 2016 10:00 AM

I tried the tube method but, as a retired submariner, I did not care for it.  So, I have tried the Verlinden Type VII upper pressure hull and enjoyed the look.  I am now working on the Type IX and am using the Blue Ridge pressure hull and like it as well.

Bill

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Friday, September 16, 2016 10:08 AM

Just looked it up, and it looks sweet. I wish I had known about it while back I would had budgeted for it.

 

What boat(s) did you serve on?

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Groton, CT
Posted by warshipguy on Friday, September 16, 2016 11:08 AM

I began my submarine career onboard USS Ethan Allen (SSBN/SSN 608), then served on PCU/USS Michigan (SSBN 727), USS Albuquerque (SSN 706), USS Dallas (SSN 700), PCU/USS Pasadena (SSN 752), and PCU/USS Maine SSBN 741).  I retired from  the Navy from the Maine.

I loved the submarine service, and I would serve again if I could.

Bill

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Friday, September 16, 2016 11:25 AM
Wow, what a carrier. All Ohio or LA except for the Ethan Allen. I have both the Ohio and LA in the stash which I'm looking forward to building.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

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  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Groton, CT
Posted by warshipguy on Friday, September 16, 2016 1:19 PM

I have been trying to get a manufacturer to produce the Allen without success.  I can build any of the original "41 For Freedom" boats except for the Allen class.  Hopefully, Micro Mir will do so, or, perhaps, Blue Ridge.

I have been collecting every submarine I can get my hands on, including the beautiful Blue Ridge USS Halibut. I have to say it again . . . What a time to be a ship modeler!

Bill

  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by Hokey on Friday, September 16, 2016 3:44 PM

warshipguy

I began my submarine career onboard USS Ethan Allen (SSBN/SSN 608), then served on PCU/USS Michigan (SSBN 727), USS Albuquerque (SSN 706), USS Dallas (SSN 700), PCU/USS Pasadena (SSN 752), and PCU/USS Maine SSBN 741).  I retired from  the Navy from the Maine.

I loved the submarine service, and I would serve again if I could.

Would be a very cool experience.

  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by Hokey on Friday, September 16, 2016 3:50 PM

warshipguy

I tried the tube method but, as a retired submariner, I did not care for it.  So, I have tried the Verlinden Type VII upper pressure hull and enjoyed the look.  I am now working on the Type IX and am using the Blue Ridge pressure hull and like it as well.

I can find the Blue Ridge option thru Google alll over the place but I can't get a link to the Verlinden Type VII upper pressure hull kit?

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Friday, September 30, 2016 8:55 AM
It’s been a little while so here’s an update.
I finished the conning tower with the PE, next is affixing it to the hull and adding some fiddly bits of PE to the hull itself.
The next pics will be the start of the weathering. Oh boy I cant wait!
Now some of you may be asking why black?? Black was the only primer I have at the moment, it shows flaws better and I don’t have to pre-shade. I will be going over areas I plan on chipping with an enamel burnt umber. I will paint over these areas with some AK Interactives Weathering Effects to facilitate chipping.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

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  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Friday, September 30, 2016 11:48 PM

Looking very good Steve. I also use black a lot as a primer. The rule of thumb is to use black as a primer for dark colors and gray or white primers under very light top coat colors.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Monday, October 3, 2016 10:08 AM

Thanks PJ, I think it worked out well.

 

I have an update from the weekend.

I mixed Testers enamel rust and Testers enamel flat black to make a burnt umber. I sprayed this onto the upper part of the hull and using a bush. I applied some AK Interactives Worn Effects in specific areas for chipping later.

I sprayed the lower/upper hull and deck with Vallejo acrylics and when dry, use a wet brush to remove areas of chipping.

I have quite a bit to do still and will use oils to enhance the rusted areas after I'm done.

diowcV.jpg

ejJz3P.jpg

SkIPka.jpg

VVJSue.jpg

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

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  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by Hokey on Monday, October 3, 2016 2:53 PM

Looking good!  Did you prime first? Also, have you used aftermarket PE or anything?

EDIT: I went brain dead! Passed backed thru thread and answered all my own stupid questions!

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Monday, October 3, 2016 3:33 PM

Thanks.

I was really not looking forward to masking the deck yesterday. I don't know why considering all the other stiff I mask for my 1/350 ships. But everything went very well.

The chipping process is moveing along much better than I though it would.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

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  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Tuesday, October 4, 2016 10:17 AM
Another update from last night. I finished the chipping and next will be the decals, washing, powders and oils ETC, ETC.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    August 2014
  • From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posted by goldhammer on Tuesday, October 4, 2016 1:11 PM

On your way to another show stopper for sure......she is a real beauty.

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Tuesday, October 4, 2016 1:27 PM

Thanks GH,

I will be painting over the rust on the rudders and far below the waterline though. I'm not so sure they would have rusted while in the water. Just below the waterline would probably have due to the occasional exposure to the air. not a running rust though.

To me the deck looks fantastic, although I'm having a hard time figuring out what is wood and what is steel. I will be going back over the deck as well with the same method but with a little more wood color.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    March 2009
  • From: brisbane australia
Posted by surfsup on Wednesday, October 5, 2016 1:30 AM

Getting better and better each time I see her. Keep up the great work.....Cheers mark

If i was your wife, i'd poison your tea! If Iwas your husband, I would drink it! WINSTON CHURCHILL

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Wednesday, October 5, 2016 9:23 AM
Thanks Surf,
I went back over the deck last night and painted wood, applied some Worn Effects, resprayed the grey and “wore” it back off. I think it looks better but I will be adjusting it some with some dry brushing and powders. I also went over the areas below the waterline to remove the rust chips on the dive planes and rudders.
While that is drying I will paint the guns, lights, floatation ring and install the props tonight. I installed my own decals on the conning tower although they don’t show in this picture.
 
The 10th Flotilla emblem to the front of the tower and U-515s supposed hammer emblem on the upper sides between the upper and lower splash guards. I assume it was painted and not a shield.
  
 
I cut the emblems from the grey background.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by Hokey on Thursday, October 6, 2016 12:19 PM

warshipguy

I tried the tube method but, as a retired submariner, I did not care for it.  So, I have tried the Verlinden Type VII upper pressure hull and enjoyed the look.  I am now working on the Type IX and am using the Blue Ridge pressure hull and like it as well.

Bill

 

Bill - Maybe you can clear this up for me - The Blue Ridge hull I find is for VII yet you refer to using Blue Ridge on the IX?

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Tuesday, October 11, 2016 2:26 PM
I added some more black wash and am ready to apply some pastels. This will be followed by burnt umber oils for running rust and highlighting some chipped paint areas.
Also note the decals
 
I took the sub into my IPMS meeting on Saturday and noticed that I was missing one of the twin 20mm AA guns. Backtracking to the car I found pieces of it in the parking lot. Oh well, I wasn’t pleased with the way the 20’s were turning out anyway so I will be ordering the CMK type IX weapons set gun set from Hannants in a week or two.
This won’t hinder me form completing the build up to the point of attaching them.
Also, while the oil paint was drying I started the LF antenna aerial. I “barrowed” some wood blocks from one of my overly priced European wooden ship kits like this one….
 

 

To make the wood blocks and used some lower E guitar string for the wire. I just started this process so I am making it up as I go along.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    December 2010
  • From: Salem, Oregon
Posted by 1943Mike on Tuesday, October 11, 2016 4:18 PM

I don't know enough about subs to make a case for or against your wood deck painting/detailing but it sure looks realistic to me.

You're dong fine work on this boat. This is going to be one fine model.

Mike

"Le temps est un grand maître, mais malheureusement, il tue tous ses élèves."

Hector Berlioz

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Tuesday, October 11, 2016 4:30 PM

Thanks Mike,

So I've been told, the wood deck was painted with a black primer followed by a dark gray camo color. This would wear off during a patrol from wear and weathering.

If nothing else it looks worn.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Wednesday, October 12, 2016 7:55 AM

modelcrazy

Thanks Mike,

So I've been told, the wood deck was painted with a black primer followed by a dark gray camo color. This would wear off during a patrol from wear and weathering.

If nothing else it looks worn.

 

 

That is looking sweet Steve. The weathering looks fantastic. And as for the insulators, you can also use soft balsa wood. 

The anti fowling paint was black and was painted over the teak deck. Haven't heard of any grey being applied over it as the deck paint would fade and eventually expose the wood color from foot traffic.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Thursday, October 13, 2016 11:28 PM
I added some running rust and I’m pleased with it. I think I need just a tad more on the port side of the conning tower. You can see the missing 20’s.
I can’t believe it. I lost the anchor!! Dog gone it!!! My wife and I looked EVERYWHERE. Oh well I still need to order the resin 20’s from Hanants, make a better base, and make the LF aerials so I will have the time to get and anchor from Revell.
In the picture with the bell, all I can think of is Das Boot. The one scene when the plane attacks and one of the crew rings the bell and yells "ALAAAAAAARM"
Well here it is so far.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

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  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Thursday, October 13, 2016 11:31 PM

Double post Propeller

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Friday, October 14, 2016 9:14 AM

I think your weathering looks fantastic. I'd be proud of that.

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