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Tamiya HMAS Vampire 1:700 (Waterline)

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  • Member since
    September 2018
Tamiya HMAS Vampire 1:700 (Waterline)
Posted by Darkhorse on Sunday, November 25, 2018 8:38 PM

I bought this kit sort of on a whim last week. I wasn‘t expecting to assemble this so soon, but a paint color I’m wating on for my other kit is in-transit, and I had time to kill. I plan to make my first diorama with this kit, and I have a 6”x6” base to work with. Vampire was destroyed in WW2 by the Japanese, so I was thinking of adding Japanese carrier craft in the diorama as well.

This is my first Tamiya kit, and it was pretty good. Everything fit, but certain things like the guns were hard to clean up. Things like the anchor were so tiny, and were not easily placed on the model. The worst thing were the horrible paper flags. I tried twice but could not pull them off.

I used acrylic paint, and artist‘s oils to weather/detail.

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Sunday, November 25, 2018 9:32 PM

Those kits don't take long to assemble. It looks good Yes. Small items like guns on those Tamiya kits, or any 1/700 kit for that matter, are difficult to trim down. I also like your suttle use of oils. Adding it to a seascape base will make it come to life.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    April 2016
Posted by Staale S on Monday, November 26, 2018 7:37 AM

Perhaps a touch too subtle... WWII destroyers could get impressively grimy in service.

https://www.google.com/search?q=v+class+destroyer&rlz=1C1GCEU_enNO822NO822&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjrjvWllvLeAhXGtIsKHRJWB84Q_AUIDigB&biw=1006&bih=793&dpr=1.25#imgrc=CFn52H-zCD6HDM:

(A Google image search that could make any old-school bosun sit down and cry.)

 

  • Member since
    September 2018
Posted by Darkhorse on Monday, November 26, 2018 9:55 AM

Thanks for the comments. I’m pretty happy with the results.. so far... but, should I install some PE handrails? Stretch spruce for the rigging? Any idea what a good way to make the Japanese planes I’m hoping to include “fly”? I found a good video on water dioramas for a small ship from Vallejo.

  • Member since
    April 2016
Posted by Staale S on Monday, November 26, 2018 10:06 AM

I'd say yes to the PE handrails, possibly other bits too. There is a dedicated PE set for the V/W destroyers... White Ensign Models I think? I feel happier using thin thread, Uschi or similar, for the rig rather than sprue, it is tricky to get the sprue consistently thick. Or thin, I suppose I should say.

How about using a thin brass rod (0.5mm or something, it is rigid enough) to support the planes? It should work well enough low above the water. Paint it black or, even better, use a chemical blackening agent, drill a hole in the plane's belly and one more in the diorama base.

And the Vallejo stuff works wery well indeed for making a seascape.

  • Member since
    January 2015
Posted by PFJN on Monday, November 26, 2018 12:40 PM

Darkhorse

Thanks for the comments. I’m pretty happy with the results.. so far... but, should I install some PE handrails? Stretch spruce for the rigging? Any idea what a good way to make the Japanese planes I’m hoping to include “fly”? I found a good video on water dioramas for a small ship from Vallejo.

Hi,

Your model looks great. 

With regards to photo etch, I have mixed feelings. On some builds it can look great, and on many it can really help make a build look even better.  However, in some areas I'm not really sure using it is always an improvement.

In some areas it can look too "flat" or "out of scale"  and in other areas it can be so hard to get it in place and bent correctly that it may make the whole model look a bit "off".

As such, if you want to try out some photo etch or rigging on this build, I would maybe start small, in just a few areas to see how you think it looks, and also be open to trying out some alternate ideas (like rigging line in place of strecthed sprue, or even 3D printed parts in place of PE components, if available - and if you are willing to spend the money, etc) Smile

1st Group BuildSP

  • Member since
    April 2016
Posted by Staale S on Monday, November 26, 2018 3:50 PM

PFJN
or even 3D printed parts in place of PE components, if available

Oh, definitely do that. I've had the dubious pleasure of origami-ing quad 40mm Boforses from photoetch, and I've tried two-piece 3D printed ones. There is no contest when it comes to usability, and the 3D ones even look better IMHO.

 

  • Member since
    March 2009
  • From: brisbane australia
Posted by surfsup on Tuesday, November 27, 2018 5:32 AM

Very nice work so far.....Cheers Mark

If i was your wife, i'd poison your tea! If Iwas your husband, I would drink it! WINSTON CHURCHILL

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: From the Mit, but live in Mason, O high ho
Posted by hogfanfs on Tuesday, November 27, 2018 7:58 AM

Great job! I really like how it turned out, but, and this my humble opinion, I can't believe it's so small. You are a better man than me to put a PE railing on that ship! lol

Seriously, very well done. I'm looking forward to the finished dio!

 Bruce

 

 On the bench:  1/48 Eduard MiG-21MF

                        1/35 Takom Merkava Mk.I

 

  • Member since
    September 2018
Posted by Darkhorse on Tuesday, November 27, 2018 10:09 PM

Thanks for the further comments. I think I may forego rails and rigging for the time being - I can always add them well later after doing the diorama. I’m doing some experiments based on some tutorials I’ve seen. Luckily I have most of the supplies, and I practiced doing some of the wake effect with a mix of gesso and acrylic medium. BUT, as I said, I want to add some Tamiya 1:700 Japanese planes, and the question is how I should arrange the planes vs the model? Will any direction be OK, or would the planes have been more likely to attack form a certain angle?

  • Member since
    April 2016
Posted by Staale S on Thursday, November 29, 2018 3:32 AM

Level and dive bombers would not get low enough to be relevant for a diorama... which leaves torpedo planes, strafing fighters and kamikaze, and kamikaze was basically a 1945 thing.

For torpedo attacks, the optimal setup was the "Hammerhead", performed from ahead of the ship from two directions at once, say from 45 degrees off the port bow and 45 degrees off the starboard bow. Properly executed this almost guarantees a hit, either way the ship turns she will end up broadside-on to a brace of torpedoes. Not turning exposes her to both salvoes. Of course, whether a destroyer would be worth such effort is debatable, and it might not always be possible to coordinate the attacking planes well enough to achieve the full hammerhead. But attacking from ahead of the beam was preferred.

That said, I think the pilots would prefer not to get closer to an enemy ship than they could, once the torpodoes were away. Even a 0.50 inch AA gun can get lucky if you get close enough and fly pretty much straight at the ship. A possible close-up scenario would perhaps be a torpedo plane or planes crossing close ahead or astern of the destroyer while doing an attack run on a larger ship?

Strafing fighters could approach from any angle. But again, getting too close only plays  into the anti-aircraft gunners' hands. If fighters are planning on dropping bombs (or rockets - not relevant in your scenario), attacking from directly astern gives the better chance of a hit. But again, if you are dropping bombs at anything you are probably too high up to show up in a waterline diorama... dropping explosives from a very low altitude is an excellent way of blowing your own plane's tail off. It's why retarded bombs were invented, but that is post-war.

I have a feeling that the most realistic setup of a plane directly attacking a waterline model is a kamikaze. They actually have a reason to get that close, other attacking planes frankly don't. Attacking from the stern would be easier, but that goes both ways (AA gunners have it easier that way too!) Broadside-on is a bit trickier but AA has a tougher time of it. Bow-on attack is tricky. Kamikaze attacks are preferably done at a pretty steep angle for speed.

As an aside, anti-aircraft guns tend to shoot at planes flying towards the ship. Once it's flying away it is no longer a threat and shooting at it is only likely to distract you from something that is.

 

  • Member since
    September 2018
Posted by Darkhorse on Sunday, December 2, 2018 9:54 PM

I think I’ll forego the planes as the base is quite small. I have the diorama a shot - it’s a start, anyway. I need a lot more practice painting the effects. My natural inclination is to paint in my usual artistic way, and I don’t necessarily paint for realism’s sake. 

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