My Royal built

Search with your browser. Try "finescale soleil royal" and see what you get.

I find the search feature on this site to be pretty worthless.

This link goes back over a decade and was called the SR ultimate bnuilding guide. It goes on and on and is full of great info.

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/7/t/68138.aspx

jeffpez

This link goes back over a decade and was called the SR ultimate bnuilding guide. It goes on and on and is full of great info.

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/7/t/68138.aspx

 

I have seen this particular tread before, it is interesting because it talks about the many faults of the kit and also offered subjections on how to fix them. At least I learned something new: farrels, It looks like I will have to learn how to fabricate them.

I was going to ask about the blue color because, since the plastic is already blue, I figure that I could get away by using the color of the plastic, but, I also found other parts that will have to be painted blue and it would be very difficult to mach the color, so, I going to search for a good color as close as possible to the original and use to paint all the blue areas.

I was looking at the dead eyes and other small parts and I wonder if is possible to use these dead eyes, they do not seen to have a way to attach them to the rope, I may have to search for dead eyes and buy them.

Again thanks for all your guys advise and GMorrison I will do a search the way you suggested

Joe

"GMorrison I will do a search the way you suggested"

I did the search using your suggested phrase and found what I was looking for.

Thanks

Joe

I just got the gumption to get back to mine- I am rigging one mast at a time.  I have the bowsprit and spritmast, and the lower foremast done.  Time to tackle the mainmast.  I take a break after each mast and work on other things.  That model is a multi-year build.

Don Stauffer

I just got the gumption to get back to mine- I am rigging one mast at a time.  I have the bowsprit and spritmast, and the lower foremast done.  Time to tackle the mainmast.  I take a break after each mast and work on other things.  That model is a multi-year build.

 

Well, it looks like this kit will take quite a long time to build, but, I hope it will not become a multi year project.

I have put together the 2 halves of the hull, and now working in preparing the cannons. I think a made a mistake when I painted the top half of the hull using a middle brown color, after that I did a wash with very diluted dark brown, then after, I did another wash with lite gray, it came out very nice, the problem lies on the color, instead of the mid brown as a base color I should have used something like ochre, I wanted to redo it, but the Admiral likes the way the brown turned out. And, as you know, where the Admiral commands, the sailor obeys. LOL

Will keep your guys posted.

Joe

Hi Joe,

It turns out to be a good looking model regardless how accurate one builds it. I finished mine in 8 months, built it out of box with the exception of setting it in a water line and tissue paper sails, now if i were to build it today then as Don says a multi year project for sure!.

Looking forward to seeing your progress.

Michael D.

Michael D.

Hi Joe,

It turns out to be a good looking model regardless how accurate one builds it. I finished mine in 8 months, built it out of box with the exception of setting it in a water line and tissue paper sails, now if i were to build it today then as Don says a multi year project for sure!.

Looking forward to seeing your progress.

 

Michael D.

 

I am considering installing tissue paper (tracing paper ) sails, can you recommend a place were I can get some instructions on how to do them?

Also, did you used the dead eyes included or do you purchased them?

Thanks in advance

Joe

There's quite a few different methods on how to do it, I'd just google it and look for some you tube videos from modelshipworld. I just used the plastic sail as a template and coated the paper with thinned white glue and let it dry, then used and acrylic wash to add the desired color, I used desert yellow and red brown mixture, but pastels would be a great option also, then I stencilled in the seams with pencil.

I displayed my sails in various stages of deployement.

I did use the kits deadeyes, once sanded to add some graining and painted they look good.

Michael D.

Michael D.

There's quite a few different methods on how to do it, I'd just google it and look for some you tube videos from modelshipworld. I just used the plastic sail as a template and coated the paper with thinned white glue and let it dry, then used and acrylic wash to add the desired color, I used desert yellow and red brown mixture, but pastels would be a great option also, then I stencilled in the seams with pencil.

I displayed my sails in various stages of deployement.

I did use the kits deadeyes, once sanded to add some graining and painted they look good.

 

Michael D.

Thanks for the prompt answer. I will try you way to see I I can handle it, it sounds like an easy way to do it. Originally I was planning to use another way which involved cutting the paper in strips and then gluing then to crated the looks of a real sail, but it is tedious and time consuming.

Also thanks for the scoop on the deadeyes.

Joe

Do some trials with different papers. I got best results using a better quality vellum typing paper.

GMorrison

Do some trials with different papers. I got best results using a better quality vellum typing paper.

My goto was 100% rag content paper, linen if possible, or cotton.  This is typically marketed as "résumé" paper.  And, it's typically available in various shade of ecru, tan, or beige.

I used to have a carefully-hoarded supply of German mechanical pencil lead in sepia brown.  Several moves ave vanished that trove.

At 1/96-1/100 sailcloth strips look plasible at about 0.24-0.25" wide--it's the 0.02" (6-7mm wide & 0.5mm edg) selvage joint to glue them together that want to moot the point.

As above, the vac-form sales will help line out the sails.  They can then be soaked thoroughly and drapes over the vac-form to set into curves.

For reef points, tie a double figure-8 knots into suitable thread at about 2 scale feet apart.  Coat the thread with PVA and let dry.  Nip the thread at the knot end and use CA to glue those to the sail.  Front ones are easy, they just lay there.  After ones want to hang down which is trickier.

Carefully study some period drawings. Sails, the way they were reefed and their shapes varied quite dramatically from the flat rectangles of 19 th C ships.

I tack away from making sails myself, as sails mean sailors and those lie beyond my modeling interest, although I like to sail.

Ill dig up the post where Tilley, while waiting in an office lobby, amused himself by toting up all of the rope required to fully rig a 18th C frigate.

Something like 800 feet.

The model.

GMorrison

Something like 800 feet.

Hmm, I would guess closer to 800 fathoms of line. 

And that's skipping the anchor rodes, at about 100 fathoms each. 

But, I'm jaded on that.

Note my last sentence... The real thing might need 96 times more.

Ok, attached is a photo of all the cannons ready to go to battle, putting together all of the 108 canons was a very tedious operation, if the canons are an example of the work ahead, I better get prepare and purchase a bottle of Advil for the headaches. LOL

Following is the hull after I repainted it using a combination of base yellow and a wash of dark brown. Originally I did a base of brown with a wash of light gray, it came out really nice, but, it was the incorrect color. After a couples of days thinking about, I decided to go ahead and redo the hull to closely resemble the drawing on the box of the kit. I was a bit apprehensive because I did not know if I was to damage the model beyond repair, but it turned out pretty decent, and most important, The Admiral approves.

Next is continuing with the assembly of the hull. This model, as you guys told me, is going to take some time to complete. I have ordered the book illustrating the proper way to rig a ship of the era, I am still waiting for delivery.

Joe

Well, I am back with an update, the building of the ship is going slowly, I had a hard time fitting some of the parts, while installing the second deck, I knock off about 4 canons and 2 couple of canons with their carriage. The canons can be easily put back, but the carriages, since the second deck is already installed and glued, I have no way of putting them back, so, those positions that are missing the canons and their carriage, I will have to close the gun ports and not show them. Attached is how far I have progressed:

Now I have to wait until I get more primer, it was ordered but it has not show up as yet. Meanwhile I started playing with the making of my own sails, I am using parchment paper provided to me by the Admiral. Before experimenting with this paper, I tried bond paper and drafting paper, but, of the 3, the parchment paper appears to be more realistic.

I did made a mistake, I used a black wire to be able to shape the sail, but did not realized that the black shows up on the paper, I may simply paint over it and hope it won't be noticeable, on the next sails I will use copper wire and I hope for the best.

Next photo is the the type of parchment paper I used, the Admiral use it in the kitchen, no idea for what.

Well, until next time

Joe

Having-fun

 I knock off about 4 canons and 2 couple of canons with their carriage. The canons can be easily put back, but the carriages, since the second deck is already installed and glued, I have no way of putting them back, so, those positions that are missing the canons and their carriage, I will have to close the gun ports and not show them. 

Often builders, knowing they wont be seen; drill a hole through the whole assembly and stick a pin into the deck. Another way is to sand flats on the bottom of the trucks for better glue surface.

Bill

GMorrison

 

 

Having-fun

 I knock off about 4 canons and 2 couple of canons with their carriage. The canons can be easily put back, but the carriages, since the second deck is already installed and glued, I have no way of putting them back, so, those positions that are missing the canons and their carriage, I will have to close the gun ports and not show them. 

 

 

 

That, my friend, is a rite of passage. You could probably shake them back where they belong, enough to glue them again.

 

Often builders, knowing they wont be seen; drill a hole through the whole assembly and stick a pin into the deck. Another way is to sand flats on the bottom of the trucks for better glue surface.

 

Bill

 

I like the idea of drilling a hole then put it a pin, I may try it on my next build.

Thanks

Joe

GMorrison

 

 

 

Often builders, knowing they wont be seen; drill a hole through the whole assembly and stick a pin into the deck. Another way is to sand flats on the bottom of the trucks for better glue surface.

 

Bill

 

In addition to flattening the bottom of the trucks, if the decks are painted you must remove the paints beneath the trucks.  I do this with a small drill, around #60 or so-easier than scraping.  The hole needs only to be very shallow, through the paint but not too far into the deck plastic.

I have finished painting the gold details for the side and back of the ship, it took me over 5 days to do so, using a very small brush and a lots, lots of patient. Attached is how they came out.

If any one is interested, the gold paint I used was Tamiya gold leaf, it goes in easy and has a very nice gold color.

Now I have run into a problem, the instructions are telling me that I have to prepare some of the rigging, and specify a specific numbered tread, the kit came with 4 reels of threads, but they are not numbered and the instructions simply tells me that I am to use either No. 10, or 16, or 40, or 60.

Which is which? are the lower numbered tread the thinner, or, it is the larger? In electrical wire the lower number is the thicker wire, is it the same with treads? I did a search in the Internet, and now I am more confused. It appears that there is no standards as how to show the size, I found a chart that is supposed to help, but it appears you have to have a PH.D in math in other to use it, I barely can add 2 + 2, LOL

Thanks

Joe

In my instruction booklet on the page first page is a small section called rigging cord notation. The various cords are lettered from A to F and a description of each is shown such as heavy brown or medium black. That chart should answer your question

Yes, after looking at the instructions very closely, ( As you know, they are not easy to read, and my eyesight is not as good as it used to be )I found were the measures for the different treads are listed, according to the chart, the smaller the number the bigger the tread. For example No. 10 = 0.9 mm, while No. 60 = 0.25 mm.

All the 4 spools of threads that came with my kit are white, so, dye then black, use only white tread or buy the correct colors. The No. 10 tread is not included, so I will have to find it of the proper color.

Thanks for the help.

Joe

I find my threads at Michaels, JoAnns, or Hobby Lobby.  For a ship that size I have no problems finding thread.  For my smaller scale kits it is a little harder- like others I use a fly tying supply place for five and ten mil thread.

I find three sizes of black (smallest for sizing) and two for white/tan get me through most models.

Don Stauffer

I find my threads at Michaels, JoAnns, or Hobby Lobby.  For a ship that size I have no problems finding thread.  For my smaller scale kits it is a little harder- like others I use a fly tying supply place for five and ten mil thread.

I find three sizes of black (smallest for sizing) and two for white/tan get me through most models.

 

My biggest problem is that neither of my daughters wants me to go to any store, due to having lymphoma about 6 years ago, (Thanks Vietnam), I am considered in the high risk group, if either of my daughters find out  that I went to a store, they will get very angry with me.

Joe

Don Stauffer

I find my threads at Michaels, JoAnns, or Hobby Lobby.  For a ship that size I have no problems finding thread.  For my smaller scale kits it is a little harder- like others I use a fly tying supply place for five and ten mil thread.

I find three sizes of black (smallest for sizing) and two for white/tan get me through most models.

 

Don, I decided to go to Hobby Lobby tomorow, no, I am not telling my daughters, I will simply take the appropriated precautions.

If I may, does the treads at the store show their size, like in mm, and/or by a number? The kit comes with the size of treads and the corresponding number, for example, No. 10 is .9 mm.

Is this how they are labeled in the store? Do I just eyeballed to get the closest size?

Thanks Don

Joe

Generally the eyeball is fine. I cannot imagine that Heller checked the scale.

The thread will be numbered. If you can find a table that makes sense to you, good luck. I never have, and there also are different systems in different countries.

A favorite thread unit of mine is the "denier". That's the number of grams that 9 kilometers weigh. About all I get from that is the higher the number, the thicker.

A couple of things. Black for standing, tan for running.

An apparent range of sizes has a nice effect. Standing rigging being the thickest. 

The shrouds on the lower masts might be 6" diameter on the ship, which would be 0.75 mm or 1/32 inch.

That's not thread; that's cord.

The anchor cables might even be twice that size.

Try to find cotton.

Run it through beeswax.

Bill

Thanks Bill, Your recommendations are greatly appreciated.

Joe

GMorrison

Generally the eyeball is fine. I cannot imagine that Heller checked the scale.

The thread will be numbered. If you can find a table that makes sense to you, good luck. I never have, and there also are different systems in different countries.

A favorite thread unit of mine is the "denier". That's the number of grams that 9 kilometers weigh. About all I get from that is the higher the number, the thicker.

A couple of things. Black for standing, tan for running.

An apparent range of sizes has a nice effect. Standing rigging being the thickest. 

The shrouds on the lower masts might be 6" diameter on the ship, which would be 0.75 mm or 1/32 inch.

That's not thread; that's cord.

The anchor cables might even be twice that size.

Try to find cotton.

Run it through beeswax.

 

Bill

 

It is also a good effect to use thinner thread for the ratlines on the shrouds- almost smallest you can work with.  I have five mil monofilament, but I would not use it for ratlines as it is a real struggle to work with, and you do so many knots and other operations with ratlines it would drive me bonkers.  I do simplify ratlines by using a simple overhand knot.  I use a lot of monofilament, but not for ratlines.  As Bill says, cotton is very nice for ratlines and running rigging because it is so flexible compared to monofilament stuff or even rayon thread.