My Royal built

Ok, next update. I have completed all the shrouds and rat lines on the lower section of the 3 masts and the little mast on the front, I also added ropes to the gun ports doors. Adding the ropes was not as bad as I imagined, I have a small electric drill and I did have to order more drill bits ( I broke 4 of them) but I was able to do the work.

I also attached all the parts that have the bright gold colors, the ship is looking pretty good, if I may say so. Attached are some photos:

In this photo you can see that I have attached the anchors and I also made a part with Styrofoam to put in the area just below the figurehead, I painted the part black and hand painted some fancy lines in gold.

In here you can see the gun ports ropes.

Showing the bright work.

Well, here is were I stand, next will be the schrouds for the second set of masts.

Joe

Hi Joe;

  Oh Good Heavens, Don't shake the ship! The crew will think they are in the Grips of a Leviathon of the Deep ! Nice work. Yes, I buy a tube or two of drill bits every three months or so. I seem to break more at 77 than I did at 37!

  I just absolutely love your paint work. I have the same ship in stash. I dunno, Room is at a premium right now.

I have started to add the rag lines, so far I have completed 2 and working on the third one. As you all know it is a slow tedious process and I only can work on it for a short time before the antiquated computer system that resides in my head starts failing, so rest in between sessions is a most.

You may also notice that I am adding ropes to the doors of the gun ports, This is an addition to the model since the kit does not calls for it. I have not finish them because I, so far, broken off 4 drill bits, so I am waiting for some new ones to arrive. These drill bits will break at the minor provocation, they have to go in straight or they will break on you. Well here is the photo:

Until next time

Joe

Don Stauffer

Looking great!  You've passed me by!  Your build is an inspriration to get mine into my rigging stand and do the mainmast shrouds and ratlines.

 

Thank you, your comments are helping me get motivated to continue with this built until it is done, I give myself another 3 to 4 month to complete the built. I hope that this time period is a reasonable one.

Joe

Looking great!  You've passed me by!  Your build is an inspriration to get mine into my rigging stand and do the mainmast shrouds and ratlines.

Well , this is my next update. After several days of doing the shrouds, I finally did the 6 in lowest area of the mast, I had run into several problems and, at one point, I got so frustrated that I was about to put the model in the garage and forget about it. Instead I drop the project for a couple of days, which let me to come up with ways I could solve my problems, then I continue and finally I have the 6 shrouds made.
I still have to do the rat lines, but, before I start I have to put back all the parts that came unglued while doing the shrouds, if you shake the ship it sounds louder that a baby's rattle. Following are 2 photos showing my progress.

Well until next time.

Joe

Hello! I have not been posting updates on the build due to reaching a point were I did not know how to proceed due to the confusing drawings on the french version of the instructions, but, thanks to Steve9, who send to me the Japanese instructions of the same ship, I was able to continue, attached is were I stand today, about to start doing the shrouds.

Hoping I can work with the dead eyes provided by the model, they are very small and do not have a channel to keep the rope in its place.

Until next time

Joe

 Update: The member who send me the Japanese instructions was Steve5, not Steve9. Sorry Steve! I am a lousy typest.

Joe

having fun , I have the imai rigging instructions , which are japanese , but alot better . if you PM me , I can send them to you if you want .

Having-fun

Also, I am on page 15 of the instructions, what a nightmare, many of the lines do not show were they are supposed to end, they are all numbered, however, I am unable to find the termination of some of the numbers. If this is an example of Heller instructions, I do not think I will be buying another Heller product.

Heller rigging instructions are on a par with Trumpeter color callouts--largely imaginary.

I strongly suspect all Heller rigging instructions were written by the same author, while drinking absinthe and chain-smoking clove Galois while contemplating going on strike.  All while being no closer to the sea than some bistro in St Dennis.

That sample text then being edited to specific kit by some intern using a "model" built in Spain for the Tourist trade as a guide.  The sort of thing carved from a single plank of wood and rigged in coarse Jute twine.

Ok, I'm biased.  I view Heller kits as bases for semi-scratch building.  The hulls are ok, the detailing reasonable; but all the spars and rigging are toast, and you want you refernce material to size things correctly.

That's my doux sou, and ought be spent appropriately.

I was about to start installing the lower eyeballs for the shrouds when I noticed something, I do not think there are sufficient eyeballs of the appropriate sizes to complete the model. There are 3 sizes of eyeballs, since I could not find what size belongs were on the instructions, I went by the logic that the bottom shrouds go with the bigger eyeballs, apparently it depends on which mast you are working with. Anyhow has anyone that have done this model have run into this problem? Are there sufficient eyeballs for each area?

Maybe they are right in from of me and I am unable to see them.

Also, I am on page 15 of the instructions, what a nightmare, many of the lines do not show were they are supposed to end, they are all numbered, however, I am unable to find the termination of some of the numbers. If this is an example of Heller instructions, I do not think I will be buying another Heller product.

Thanks

Joe

PD.  Yes, I know, you guys warned me about this model.

I went to Hobby Lobby today, I found several treads of different sizes, but, I had to choose them by sight, because, since sizing of treads is not standardized, I could not match what the kit needs and what was available, so, I may have to guess as to the size of tread needed for the model.

The store paint selection was limited to mostly Testor paint of which they had a a good variety of colors, they also had about 20 bottles of Vallejo, but, they did not had any Tamiya paints. Tomorrow I am planning to go to Michael's to see what I can find there.

My daughter found out that I went to the store and got very angry with me, what can I tell you, apparently she loves her daddy a lot.

Joe

I have a spool of black tread provided by the Admiral, is very thin and I think it will go very well with the thicker shroud rope ( about 1 mm ) that I will be using.

Thanks

Joe

GMorrison

Generally the eyeball is fine. I cannot imagine that Heller checked the scale.

The thread will be numbered. If you can find a table that makes sense to you, good luck. I never have, and there also are different systems in different countries.

A favorite thread unit of mine is the "denier". That's the number of grams that 9 kilometers weigh. About all I get from that is the higher the number, the thicker.

A couple of things. Black for standing, tan for running.

An apparent range of sizes has a nice effect. Standing rigging being the thickest. 

The shrouds on the lower masts might be 6" diameter on the ship, which would be 0.75 mm or 1/32 inch.

That's not thread; that's cord.

The anchor cables might even be twice that size.

Try to find cotton.

Run it through beeswax.

 

Bill

 

It is also a good effect to use thinner thread for the ratlines on the shrouds- almost smallest you can work with.  I have five mil monofilament, but I would not use it for ratlines as it is a real struggle to work with, and you do so many knots and other operations with ratlines it would drive me bonkers.  I do simplify ratlines by using a simple overhand knot.  I use a lot of monofilament, but not for ratlines.  As Bill says, cotton is very nice for ratlines and running rigging because it is so flexible compared to monofilament stuff or even rayon thread.

Thanks Bill, Your recommendations are greatly appreciated.

Joe

Generally the eyeball is fine. I cannot imagine that Heller checked the scale.

The thread will be numbered. If you can find a table that makes sense to you, good luck. I never have, and there also are different systems in different countries.

A favorite thread unit of mine is the "denier". That's the number of grams that 9 kilometers weigh. About all I get from that is the higher the number, the thicker.

A couple of things. Black for standing, tan for running.

An apparent range of sizes has a nice effect. Standing rigging being the thickest. 

The shrouds on the lower masts might be 6" diameter on the ship, which would be 0.75 mm or 1/32 inch.

That's not thread; that's cord.

The anchor cables might even be twice that size.

Try to find cotton.

Run it through beeswax.

Bill

Don Stauffer

I find my threads at Michaels, JoAnns, or Hobby Lobby.  For a ship that size I have no problems finding thread.  For my smaller scale kits it is a little harder- like others I use a fly tying supply place for five and ten mil thread.

I find three sizes of black (smallest for sizing) and two for white/tan get me through most models.

 

Don, I decided to go to Hobby Lobby tomorow, no, I am not telling my daughters, I will simply take the appropriated precautions.

If I may, does the treads at the store show their size, like in mm, and/or by a number? The kit comes with the size of treads and the corresponding number, for example, No. 10 is .9 mm.

Is this how they are labeled in the store? Do I just eyeballed to get the closest size?

Thanks Don

Joe

Don Stauffer

I find my threads at Michaels, JoAnns, or Hobby Lobby.  For a ship that size I have no problems finding thread.  For my smaller scale kits it is a little harder- like others I use a fly tying supply place for five and ten mil thread.

I find three sizes of black (smallest for sizing) and two for white/tan get me through most models.

 

My biggest problem is that neither of my daughters wants me to go to any store, due to having lymphoma about 6 years ago, (Thanks Vietnam), I am considered in the high risk group, if either of my daughters find out  that I went to a store, they will get very angry with me.

Joe

I find my threads at Michaels, JoAnns, or Hobby Lobby.  For a ship that size I have no problems finding thread.  For my smaller scale kits it is a little harder- like others I use a fly tying supply place for five and ten mil thread.

I find three sizes of black (smallest for sizing) and two for white/tan get me through most models.

Yes, after looking at the instructions very closely, ( As you know, they are not easy to read, and my eyesight is not as good as it used to be )I found were the measures for the different treads are listed, according to the chart, the smaller the number the bigger the tread. For example No. 10 = 0.9 mm, while No. 60 = 0.25 mm.

All the 4 spools of threads that came with my kit are white, so, dye then black, use only white tread or buy the correct colors. The No. 10 tread is not included, so I will have to find it of the proper color.

Thanks for the help.

Joe

In my instruction booklet on the page first page is a small section called rigging cord notation. The various cords are lettered from A to F and a description of each is shown such as heavy brown or medium black. That chart should answer your question

I have finished painting the gold details for the side and back of the ship, it took me over 5 days to do so, using a very small brush and a lots, lots of patient. Attached is how they came out.

If any one is interested, the gold paint I used was Tamiya gold leaf, it goes in easy and has a very nice gold color.

Now I have run into a problem, the instructions are telling me that I have to prepare some of the rigging, and specify a specific numbered tread, the kit came with 4 reels of threads, but they are not numbered and the instructions simply tells me that I am to use either No. 10, or 16, or 40, or 60.

Which is which? are the lower numbered tread the thinner, or, it is the larger? In electrical wire the lower number is the thicker wire, is it the same with treads? I did a search in the Internet, and now I am more confused. It appears that there is no standards as how to show the size, I found a chart that is supposed to help, but it appears you have to have a PH.D in math in other to use it, I barely can add 2 + 2, LOL

Thanks

Joe

GMorrison

 

 

 

Often builders, knowing they wont be seen; drill a hole through the whole assembly and stick a pin into the deck. Another way is to sand flats on the bottom of the trucks for better glue surface.

 

Bill

 

In addition to flattening the bottom of the trucks, if the decks are painted you must remove the paints beneath the trucks.  I do this with a small drill, around #60 or so-easier than scraping.  The hole needs only to be very shallow, through the paint but not too far into the deck plastic.

GMorrison

 

 

Having-fun

 I knock off about 4 canons and 2 couple of canons with their carriage. The canons can be easily put back, but the carriages, since the second deck is already installed and glued, I have no way of putting them back, so, those positions that are missing the canons and their carriage, I will have to close the gun ports and not show them. 

 

 

 

That, my friend, is a rite of passage. You could probably shake them back where they belong, enough to glue them again.

 

Often builders, knowing they wont be seen; drill a hole through the whole assembly and stick a pin into the deck. Another way is to sand flats on the bottom of the trucks for better glue surface.

 

Bill

 

I like the idea of drilling a hole then put it a pin, I may try it on my next build.

Thanks

Joe

Having-fun

 I knock off about 4 canons and 2 couple of canons with their carriage. The canons can be easily put back, but the carriages, since the second deck is already installed and glued, I have no way of putting them back, so, those positions that are missing the canons and their carriage, I will have to close the gun ports and not show them. 

Often builders, knowing they wont be seen; drill a hole through the whole assembly and stick a pin into the deck. Another way is to sand flats on the bottom of the trucks for better glue surface.

Bill

Well, I am back with an update, the building of the ship is going slowly, I had a hard time fitting some of the parts, while installing the second deck, I knock off about 4 canons and 2 couple of canons with their carriage. The canons can be easily put back, but the carriages, since the second deck is already installed and glued, I have no way of putting them back, so, those positions that are missing the canons and their carriage, I will have to close the gun ports and not show them. Attached is how far I have progressed:

Now I have to wait until I get more primer, it was ordered but it has not show up as yet. Meanwhile I started playing with the making of my own sails, I am using parchment paper provided to me by the Admiral. Before experimenting with this paper, I tried bond paper and drafting paper, but, of the 3, the parchment paper appears to be more realistic.

I did made a mistake, I used a black wire to be able to shape the sail, but did not realized that the black shows up on the paper, I may simply paint over it and hope it won't be noticeable, on the next sails I will use copper wire and I hope for the best.

Next photo is the the type of parchment paper I used, the Admiral use it in the kitchen, no idea for what.

Well, until next time

Joe

Ok, attached is a photo of all the cannons ready to go to battle, putting together all of the 108 canons was a very tedious operation, if the canons are an example of the work ahead, I better get prepare and purchase a bottle of Advil for the headaches. LOL

Following is the hull after I repainted it using a combination of base yellow and a wash of dark brown. Originally I did a base of brown with a wash of light gray, it came out really nice, but, it was the incorrect color. After a couples of days thinking about, I decided to go ahead and redo the hull to closely resemble the drawing on the box of the kit. I was a bit apprehensive because I did not know if I was to damage the model beyond repair, but it turned out pretty decent, and most important, The Admiral approves.

Next is continuing with the assembly of the hull. This model, as you guys told me, is going to take some time to complete. I have ordered the book illustrating the proper way to rig a ship of the era, I am still waiting for delivery.

Joe

Note my last sentence... The real thing might need 96 times more.

GMorrison

Something like 800 feet.

Hmm, I would guess closer to 800 fathoms of line. 

And that's skipping the anchor rodes, at about 100 fathoms each. 

But, I'm jaded on that.

Carefully study some period drawings. Sails, the way they were reefed and their shapes varied quite dramatically from the flat rectangles of 19 th C ships.

I tack away from making sails myself, as sails mean sailors and those lie beyond my modeling interest, although I like to sail.

Ill dig up the post where Tilley, while waiting in an office lobby, amused himself by toting up all of the rope required to fully rig a 18th C frigate.

Something like 800 feet.

The model.

GMorrison

Do some trials with different papers. I got best results using a better quality vellum typing paper.

My goto was 100% rag content paper, linen if possible, or cotton.  This is typically marketed as "résumé" paper.  And, it's typically available in various shade of ecru, tan, or beige.

I used to have a carefully-hoarded supply of German mechanical pencil lead in sepia brown.  Several moves ave vanished that trove.

At 1/96-1/100 sailcloth strips look plasible at about 0.24-0.25" wide--it's the 0.02" (6-7mm wide & 0.5mm edg) selvage joint to glue them together that want to moot the point.

As above, the vac-form sales will help line out the sails.  They can then be soaked thoroughly and drapes over the vac-form to set into curves.

For reef points, tie a double figure-8 knots into suitable thread at about 2 scale feet apart.  Coat the thread with PVA and let dry.  Nip the thread at the knot end and use CA to glue those to the sail.  Front ones are easy, they just lay there.  After ones want to hang down which is trickier.