Question on ship plastic

Hi!

    Having worked in the industry for some time I think i can shed a wee bit of light here. There is as polystyrene formula that along with the mold release agent used that results in the shinier hull. It is common  and does affect buildability. To get paint to stick well you have to break the Gloss finish with 600 to 1200 grit Wet! The microscopic gloss is caused by the factors mentioned as well.

   This is unavoidble as the plastic in question has had it added to increase moldability, and releasability from said mold!. Remember, I don't know, but those molds unless replaced in the last ten years, are over sixty years old. Also remember, the kit shows up now and then as new stuff(I don't kniow if it's from different warehouses or new production.)

According to ScaleMates, the Hawaiian Pilot was originally released in 1955 (USA).   It was re-released as the Doctor Lykes in 1961 (USA), and latest as the Hawaiian Pilot in 2005.    

Here's some more reading on this subject from the Finescale modeling site;

https://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/7/p/161658/1760238.aspx

Tanker-Builder

Hi!

    Having worked in the industry for some time I think i can shed a wee bit of light here. There is as polystyrene formula that along with the mold release agent used that results in the shinier hull. It is common  and does affect buildability. To get paint to stick well you have to break the Gloss finish with 600 to 1200 grit Wet! The microscopic gloss is caused by the factors mentioned as well.

   This is unavoidble as the plastic in question has had it added to increase moldability, and releasability from said mold!. Remember, I don't know, but those molds unless replaced in the last ten years, are over sixty years old.

 

Thanks TB.  If i use the dull kit, the Hawaiian Pilot, do you recommend washing?  Id hate to break any parts.  The Doctor Lykes in this case is missing so many parts and busted ones, its practically unusable. 

Tanker-Builder

Hi!

    Having worked in the industry for some time I think i can shed a wee bit of light here. There is as polystyrene formula that along with the mold release agent used that results in the shinier hull. It is common  and does affect buildability. To get paint to stick well you have to break the Gloss finish with 600 to 1200 grit Wet! The microscopic gloss is caused by the factors mentioned as well.

   This is unavoidble as the plastic in question has had it added to increase moldability, and releasability from said mold!. Remember, I don't know, but those molds unless replaced in the last ten years, are over sixty years old.

 

Didnt see the picture i had posted....  Here it is - I hope!

Mrchntmarine

Thanks TB.  If i use the dull kit, the Hawaiian Pilot, do you recommend washing?  Id hate to break any parts.  The Doctor Lykes in this case is missing so many parts and busted ones, its practically unusable.  

I generally wash my kit parts anyway, even today's kits that aren't plagued with the kinds of heavy mold release agents used back in the 50s and 60s.  I realize that it's probably not necessary, but it can't hurt.  I use a large glass baking dish, filled with warm water and a couple drops of a de-greasing agent (SuperClean, but I used to use dishwashing liquid). I'm careful of small or delicate parts, and haven't had any problems yet.

In your case, I would definitely wash the sprues.

Hi MrchntMarine!

    On all Revell kits for the last five or six years I wash the heck out of them .Even going so far as having a Tupperware cake storage pan for washing the parts on the sprues with Dawn and very Hot water.

    Create a container of foam and parts and then let sit for a minute or two, pour out and rinse thoroughly. You should rinse in hot water twice and let air dry. You should be good to go then. I am still working on the deckhouse of my latest, just making the seams disappear. 

       I was thinking, I know a bad idea LOL! I noticed a small discrepancy in something I never thought to mention. In every case you must do a small modification to the stem of the ship.They have the curve going the wrong way. remember these are based on the "Victory hulls" Lengthened and turbine powered and extra cargo capacity. The Stem would be slightly concave instead of convex!

      I shipped for three years on a Victory- M.S.T.S. service as Chief Engineer! They were good ships in my opinion, Yeah, I know about opinions!

    I was asked to do the "Hermann Marwede" by some friends and, I HAD to wash all of them! One got to the paint stage before I noticed the paint coming off by just touching it, it would just rub off!

   I always liked this kit and have done some pretty weird conversions of the Area above the main deck line. Gosh, I wish I had the photos. Some would definitely make you laugh! It's a good hull for this . By the way did you know that the U.S.S. Randall may be the same mold - Militarized?

     These hulls were so neat though. Anything from Hospitals and Car Carriers al the way to full Passenger ships and Oceanographic  Reasearch and  Drill ships. I even did two to represent the converted Victories that became "Container" capable ships for  the Alaskan Trade.

     I apologise for the longwindedness, I just thought after what you said about building more than one, you'd like to know!

Thanks all.  And yep, i washed!  Appreciate all the tips AND history - not too long winded for me.  But now, a paint question on the same hull, in the painting Topics!  Rgds - see ya there.

I just have to chime in and comment on T-B's memory here.
The militarized version of the C3 Hawaian Pilot/ Dr Lykes was the USS Burleigh.  The Navy versions were the Bayfield class.

The USS Randall/ Montrose kits were members of the 117 ship Haskell class.  They were VC2 type "Victory" ships.

Back in my pre-1/700 scale days, I fantasized about "un-militarizing" a Randall/Montrose and making a plain VC2.  Never happened, but it was a part of a long-time project of going through old Janes Fighting Ships and figuring out what ships other than APA could be converted from the Hawaian Pilot C3, the Montrose VC2 and the Mission Capistrano T2 class ships.

So many options!

Other than that slip, I completely agree with Tanker Builder's thoughts about handling the model.

Rick

Ah, The "Victory"

          Now, there's a good solid little ship. Did some time on a Victory after my time in uniform. Got Her through the M.F.O.W. union hall in San Fransisco. Her Name" The S.S.Ocala Victory" .

 I was somewhat surprised at the quarters aboard for sure,and the quality of her food. Almost the same as the Matson Lines "Lurline". Good cruise and great weather the whole time.

Tanker-Builder

Ah, The "Victory"

          Now, there's a good solid little ship. Did some time on a Victory after my time in uniform. Got Her through the M.F.O.W. union hall in San Fransisco. Her Name" The S.S.Ocala Victory" .

 I was somewhat surprised at the quarters aboard for sure,and the quality of her food. Almost the same as the Matson Lines "Lurline". Good cruise and great weather the whole time.

 

I should know this , but, can never remember.  I have a teenie diamond " L " flag.  Put it on the stern pole, right?? Thinking so...

A C3 can be the basis for a Bogue class CVE or a Royal Navy Attacker class carrier.

Just need some 1/400 Wildcats from Airfix or Heller.

Bill

I washed, stripped, and painted my Revell S-100 three times before the paint would stick.

Fisherman Dave!

        I had a Revell plane I had to do that with! Three times was a charm I guess!

Yup! leastwise if I remember correctly, little "L" flag on the stern!

Tanker-Builder

Yup! leastwise if I remember correctly, little "L" flag on the stern!

 

thanks tb - I guessed right!

Getting close!  AGHH, i missed some areas under the hatch edges....

AHA!

      Now that looks very "Ship Shape" Well Done!

Thanks TB!