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A decent rendition of Bismarck

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  • Member since
    March 2007
A decent rendition of Bismarck
Posted by Chuck0 on Saturday, March 31, 2007 3:08 PM

 

 If it weren't for the totally botched main deck I would try and submit it for publication. I'm working on Tirpitz now and she promisess to be MUCH better.

  anyway hope you all enjoy.

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by Yankee Clipper on Saturday, March 31, 2007 4:14 PM

ChuckO

Beautiful job! I would make mention of great work on the cable system of the cranes, the rudder indicator box, and the barrel cleaning tubes. Just one item though, it looks as if the flag on the main is reversed, still "he" is lovely.

Yankee Clipper

  • Member since
    March 2004
Posted by Gerarddm on Saturday, March 31, 2007 4:45 PM
Clean job! Kindly indicate as to scale, manufacturer, PE used, etc.
Gerard> WA State Current: 1/700 What-If Railgun Battlecruiser 1/700 Admiralty COURAGEOUS battlecruiser
  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by smnhnd on Saturday, March 31, 2007 6:47 PM
Thumbs Up [tup]Thumbs Up [tup]Thumbs Up [tup] I love it !
 
ON MY TO DO LIST: 1976 Chevy Nova F-106 Delta Dart
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: USA
Posted by weebles on Saturday, March 31, 2007 7:03 PM

That is exceptional work.  I'm always impressed by quality work with the PE railings, etc.  How are you able to make them look like they come straight out of the deck the way the do.  Would love to hear your technique for attching the PE.  Very clean.

Dave 

  • Member since
    March 2007
Posted by Chuck0 on Sunday, April 1, 2007 6:10 AM

  Hi, glad you all like it. To answer the questions, I'm pretty sure the flag is on the right way though if it isn't I will certainly take the correction under advisement. The cross on the flag goes to the upper corner nearest the pole I thought?

  This isTamiya 350th, done in ModelMaster acrylics with Badger 150 airbrush. Photo etch is mostly WEM but with a little GMM and Tom's thrown in the mix. Also several scratchbuilt details. The base is homemade from dimensional oak from the local hardware store.

  On the rails? The only secret is to very carefully prebend all corners and radii. I hate when the pe manufacturers attach the rail to a platform with a curve on it and expect you to form it around the platform while attached. I always cut those free and form them seperately, straight edges on those are ok. I'll spend a couple hours on one peice if I don't like it. once I'm satisfied with the bend just put a tiny drop of white glue at one point and position it into place. Once tacked into place run a bead of cyanoacrylate along the base and then paint the bottom rung of the rail to blend it into the surface you attached it to.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: USA
Posted by weebles on Sunday, April 1, 2007 8:30 AM

Thanks for sharing that information.  I ordered GMM's publication on photoetching for ships. 

I just spent a few minutes staring at your photos.  How do you get such a clean line between the vertical surfaces and the deck.  Are you finishing each level before attaching it to the finished model.  If so how do you attach without effecting the paint from the deck your attaching it to? 

Thanks for sharing.

Dave

  • Member since
    March 2007
Posted by Chuck0 on Sunday, April 1, 2007 9:45 AM
 weebles wrote:

  How do you get such a clean line between the vertical surfaces and the deck.  Are you finishing each level before attaching it to the finished model.

This is in fact how I do it, everything that can be is assembled complete and finished before attaching to the model. Just keep your glue tight, you don't want anything squishing out of the joint.

    In the cases where you have to paint the deck and bulwarks together I usually paint the vertical surface first and then mask it to spray the deck, after masking a very light coat of clear along the edge of the tape will make sure nothing leaks. Not necessary though if you spray your deck color very lightly at first so as not to have a large puddle of wet paint to seep under the tape.  

  • Member since
    March 2004
Posted by Gerarddm on Sunday, April 1, 2007 10:50 AM

Kindly explain how you believe you "totally botched" the main deck, which looks OK to me.

The more I look at your photos the more I like this effort.

Gerard> WA State Current: 1/700 What-If Railgun Battlecruiser 1/700 Admiralty COURAGEOUS battlecruiser
  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Hutchinson, KS
Posted by gtother on Sunday, April 1, 2007 11:09 AM

Wow, impressive job.  Botched? No way.  Ive been wanting to build the Bismarck for awhile...just a little intimidated by the detailing effort.  Someday soon ill pay-up and dive in.

 

                 -graham
 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: USA
Posted by weebles on Sunday, April 1, 2007 12:04 PM

Great tip on the clear coat for sealing.  I'll try that. 

With respect to gluing the structures to the deck.  Are you gluing from the underside and inside the cabins along the joints or do you have another method.  What type of glue are you using?

Thanks for putting up with all my questions!

Dave

  • Member since
    October 2006
  • From: Tucson, AZ
Posted by Archangel Shooter on Sunday, April 1, 2007 4:59 PM

An outstanding job there Bow [bow]. I see I'm going to have my hands full when I start on my Bismark. Three questions if you don't mind answering some?

  1. I have all the WEM PE sets for her, is that not enough? You mentioned having to use some more by GMM and Tom Modelworks?
  2. Did you used a Swasika decal for the bow/stern decks?
  3. The rigging is truly a work of art, what did you use to do it...hair?

Thank you!

Scott

 Your image is loading...

 On the bench: So many hanger queens.

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2007
Posted by Chuck0 on Sunday, April 1, 2007 5:50 PM

  Wow so many questions! Dead [xx(]

Um, let's see. I considered the deck botched from what I was attempting, I sprayed the deck color first and then tried to streak in some variation in the planks by hand but it did not work well when I went to blend it so I ended up painting it over, then I tried doing a wash which was another abysmal failure so I ended up painting it again. Ended up with about three more layers of paint than wanted and nearly wiped out the plank engraving all together. On Tirpitz I will do the more tedious method of actually masking the individual planks in four different colors and blending them alla the "Rusty White" method that worked so well on my Mikasa.

   The WEM sets are more than adequate, I used some GMM parts on the antiaircraft fixtures, som Tom's stuff on some landings, none really necessary, no one would ever really notice.

   The Swastikas are frome a 48th scale decal set and are a little undersized, go for 32nd if you can find them.

 The rigging is real dupont lycra, nearly impossible to find. I have about enough for five more ships and am not sure if I can get more. Dupont sold the lycra line to another company and I've been having a hard time locating a distributor.

As for gluing the subbassemblies I just use the testors modelmaster in the black square bottle. It binds very nicely right through acrylic paint.  Don't use too much, keep it to the inside of the bulwarks and place straight down without sliding and you'll be fine.

   I think that's everybody?Big Smile [:D]
 

  

  • Member since
    October 2006
  • From: Tucson, AZ
Posted by Archangel Shooter on Sunday, April 1, 2007 10:52 PM

Hi Chuck!

Thanks for the tips I do appreciate it, will see if I can find some of that lycra out here, it sure looks good on your ship.

Scott

 Your image is loading...

 On the bench: So many hanger queens.

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: OKC
Posted by stretchie on Tuesday, April 3, 2007 1:00 AM

A beautiful job. Thumbs Up [tup]

 

I finished my Bismarck a couple months ago....prior to getting on here. Since I've been on here, I've begun to think I did a misjustice to mine. PE is really needed. Same goes for the King George V. I'm putting the final deck paint touches on the Big E. All three have no PE. Sad [:(]

Seeing what beautiful works of art you and others do makes me want to build them again. Oooooo...expensive. Big Smile [:D] 

  • Member since
    March 2007
Posted by Chuck0 on Thursday, April 5, 2007 7:46 PM
 I'd say definitely do them again when you get comfortable working with the brass peices. The biggest contributor to an excellent model is plenty of research material, as many photographs of the real thing as you can find as well as drawings and plans. My first model three years ago was a Tamiya 350th Missouri fully rc converted with Tom's modelworks pe. It came out pretty well, excellent for a first attempt at a ship model. But I look at it now and kind of cringe, I definitely plan on revisiting the Mighty Mo and doing her justice before I move on to more obscure subjects.
  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Sterling, VA
Posted by oldmodeler on Friday, April 6, 2007 10:58 AM

Chuck, very nice ship. I'm impressed. Have you seen this line:

http://www.bobeshobbyhouse.com/ezl.html

Ed

  • Member since
    March 2007
Posted by Chuck0 on Saturday, April 7, 2007 9:30 AM
  You  know I have heard of that stuff but forgot about it. I think it's a bit thicker than the stuff I'm using but sounds like it would be perfect for 350th main lines. I'll have to try and pick some up and check it out, using that for the mains and the lycra for the running lines would certainly stretch my supply. (pun intended)
  • Member since
    June 2006
Posted by Paul5910 on Saturday, April 7, 2007 4:44 PM

Super duper job!  And thanks for the great pics..

 Paul

 

  • Member since
    November 2006
  • From: United States
Posted by ww2modeler on Monday, April 9, 2007 1:56 PM

Beautiful job, nice clean build. The photo etched parts look spectacular. Very crisp model.

Thanks for sharing, keep it up.

David

On the bench:

1/35 Tamiya M26 Pershing-0%

1/144 Minicraft P-38J Lightning-50%

Numerous 1/35 scale figures in various stages if completion.

 

  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by DURR on Monday, April 9, 2007 5:46 PM
very  very nice
  • Member since
    October 2013
Posted by Alpha 43 on Monday, May 12, 2014 11:23 PM

Chuck,

I like it! I think that you are too critical of yourself on this build. What aftermarket parts were used or did you build it straight out of the box? What is the scale and who is the manufacturer? I just finished my first build, the 1:400 RMS Titanic. I learned a lot from it and I can honestly say that I will get better at this as I build more.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Tuesday, May 13, 2014 12:50 AM

A43, this thread is 7 years old, and the poster has not shown any activity on here in 6 years. If you get an answer from him it will be quite surprising.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Groton, CT
Posted by warshipguy on Tuesday, May 13, 2014 7:17 PM

I am truly impressed! You did a wonderful job detailing Tamiya's plain bulkheads.

Bill

  • Member since
    September 2007
  • From: Truro Nova Scotia, Canada
Posted by SuppressionFire on Tuesday, May 13, 2014 7:30 PM

The missing modeller must be meticulously masking many miniature deck planks on the Tirpitz.

Looking forward to his return!

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y211/razordws/GB%20Badges/WMIIIGBsmall.jpg

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Northeast WA State
Posted by armornut on Tuesday, May 13, 2014 9:57 PM

Well , just my luck, new question old thread. Oh well since its alive I'll ask anyway.... when doing PE does one start from bottom up or top down? My guess would be top down and inside out but its always welcome to have another opinion or two. Great model by the way, my fleet consists of Tirpitz, Missouri    (1991 ) and Admiral Lazarev, also Big E  modern island. Some day I'll have PE for them all.

we're modelers it's what we do

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Tuesday, May 13, 2014 10:06 PM

I work from the center out... Less chance of damaging the work already done.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    May 2010
Posted by amphib on Wednesday, May 14, 2014 5:38 AM

If you Google, Lycra thread rigging, on the internet there seems to be all sorts of sources for the stuff. I think I will try to get some for the next model I build.

Amphib

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Northeast WA State
Posted by armornut on Wednesday, May 14, 2014 4:11 PM

Thx stik kinda what I thought but no harm in asking.

we're modelers it's what we do

  • Member since
    March 2006
Posted by TD4438 on Wednesday, May 14, 2014 4:32 PM

Build up and out.

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