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What’s the best way to fill smallest cracks in seams?

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  • Member since
    August 2012
What’s the best way to fill smallest cracks in seams?
Posted by JMorgan on Sunday, February 23, 2020 3:58 PM

Thanks in advance!

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, February 23, 2020 4:13 PM

I normally run a small bit of CA glue in there with a fine piece of wire.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Sunday, February 23, 2020 4:29 PM

I've recently been using Vallejo acrylic putty. Water washable until hardened.   Same kind of dropper bottle as their paints.

Spread some in joint, ive used a paintbrush on small areas.    Go back with a damp Q-tip and wipe the excess off across the seam.   When hard it can be sanded or buffed with a t-shirt

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Monday, February 24, 2020 8:34 AM

I hadn't heard of that product, thanks Ed.

Back to the OP, I use PPP (Perfect Plastic Putty) but it sounds like the new Vallejo product Ed mentioned is thinner and might be even better for the small seams you are asking about.

-Greg

  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Monday, February 24, 2020 10:51 AM

Hi Greg!

 I have been using Mr Primer Surfacer to do it. Remember they have three different thicknesses. The thickest rubbed over the surface and then sanded when dry works for me. Tanker-Builder

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Monday, February 24, 2020 11:22 AM

Hi TB!

I hadn't thought of Mr Surfacer. Another great idea for a small seam. Like you, I have all three thicknesses in stock.

-Greg

  • Member since
    March 2015
  • From: Close to Chicago
Posted by JohnnyK on Monday, February 24, 2020 1:01 PM

I use a toothpick to apply Mr. Dissolved Putty. It is easy to sand after it is dry.

Your comments and questions are always welcome.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Monday, February 24, 2020 2:06 PM

For really small cracks or seams I just use a small brush to paint some flat paint over it.  Then sand with fine paper.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    June 2003
Posted by Jammer on Wednesday, February 26, 2020 8:03 PM

You can also use white out tape to fill cracks and seams.  I've used it to seal seams on wing roots.  It takes paint well and is thin enough that it doesn't mask detail.

 

HTH

 

Doug

  • Member since
    December 2015
  • From: providence ,r.i.
Posted by templar1099 on Thursday, February 27, 2020 5:56 AM

Greg
use PPP (Perfect Plastic Putty) but it sounds like the new Vallejo product Ed mentioned is thinner


I'll liquify PPP and fill to flush.

"le plaisir delicieux et toujours nouveau d'une occupation inutile"

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Friday, February 28, 2020 11:43 AM

This is a common question-you'll find a good number of threads here that ask it.

For me, I use Squadron white, thinned with acetone.  I use two methods.

One is to apply the putty to the seam, then to use a cotton swab or an old paint brush dipped in the solvent to remove the excess.  I wipe across the seam, so as to leave the putty in it but to remove it from the surrounding area.

The other is to dissolve a blob of putty in a little glass jar (eg, old MM or Tamiya paint jars) with a couple drops of acetone.  I stir this with a toothpick, till it's consistent, then I use an old paint brush to apply it to the seam.  I call it my homemade Mr Surfacer.

I also use regular Mr Surfacer, too.

Another method I use on styrene kits is stretched sprue and liquid styrene cement.  I'll stretch a piece to an appropriate size for the seam, lay it on the seam, and flow liquid cement over it.

As far as Perfect Plastic Putty goes, it's great, as long as you don't get it wet after it dries.  Water will dissolve it an you'll have your seam back.  Wet-sanding is out.

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Sunday, March 1, 2020 5:28 PM

Are the cracks in the plastic or the filler?

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Monday, March 2, 2020 11:27 AM

plasticjunkie

Are the cracks in the plastic or the filler? 

Good question.  On repeated reading, I see your point.

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Friday, April 24, 2020 5:38 PM

I use the Gorilla brand of super glue on a toothpick and touch it to the seam.  Depending on the depth of the seam or crack, I give the super glue anywhere from a couple of hours to overnight to cure.  Use a black sharpie to put a coat of ink on the glue and surrounding plastic, then wet sand until all of the black is gone.  Works like a champ, and you only have to do it once, as opposed to the usual fill-sand-fill-sand dance.  The best part is, if you missed a tiny gap that gets revealed after primer goes on, you can use the same technique, as long as you just touch the glue to the seam and don't try to spread it.  It will combine with the primer and harden just fine if its left alone to cure.  No need for fillers, the glue by itself does the job.  Basically, the only reason I prefer using Gorilla glue for this is that they seem to be one of the few manufacturers who has figured out how to make a dispensing tip that doesn't clog.

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

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