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So as I near the end of my 3rd and current project I've started thinking about my next... I want to try something other than the usual motorcycle, so have decided to try weathering a vw beetle to get a rusty abandoned look..
So I've started researching weathering techniques but most videos if not all say that you can't or shouldn't try weathering with acrylic paints... Is this the case? As I don't fancy using anything other than acrylics?
Anyhoo if someone could give me some clarification on this I'd appreciate it... Also any advice on weathering techniques to achieve the look I'm going for would be greatly received....
That is a total fabrication from my experiance. i have weathered models with acrylics for awhile with good results. I have included a link to Youtube with videos that show you how to acheive the faded, rusty look you may be going for.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=rust+on+car+models
Weathering has gotten a bit harder now with the wide variety of paints available. In addition to enamel, lacquer and acrylics, we now have acrylic lacquers! If you are just getting started in weathering, it is indeed a good idea to apply some sort of clearcoat before weathering, so you can get back to where you started on the weathering.
My advice is to do testing. Paint some plastic spoons or other scrap plastic with the paint you are using on the car, and try various clearcoats on them. In any case, let the paint dry thoroughly before starting any weathering. For any type of paint, wait several days before putting anything on top. Some people recommend weathering with powders, which can be removed more easily, but even with powders, if the particle size is small enough it will get into the paint hard enough it will be hard to remove, so a bulletproof clearcoat is still a good idea. And a gloss clearcoat may be better in its protection- you can always dullcoat it when you are finished. But again, best bet is testing off the model.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
There are so many combinations of things to try that there's always a solution. I've weathered over acrylics without any issues. One thing is that regardless of the paint type, weathering over matte or flat finishes is really hard. I prefer gloss ofr at least pretty shiny surfaces, asnd I usually weather in the same phase as applying decals.
My gloss is usually clear acrylic, and I then weather with Turpenoid and oils.
Bill
Modeling is an excuse to buy books.
Some great advice coming already guys thank you.... So this is where I'm at in my head at the moment... Dunno if it's right or wrong but I was thinking of starting with a rust coloured undercoat with some different coloured rust coloured acrylics sprayed in various place.... And then I assume I would seal it with a clear coat(matt or gloss?) and then thinking of dabbing/appliing liquid mask in places I want the rust to show through and then spray over the top with my acrylic colour and once dry remove the liquid mask... Seal again then apply powders washes etc.. Does anyone see any reason why this shouldn't work?... Apologies for my naivety...
GMorrison My gloss is usually clear acrylic, and I then weather with Turpenoid and oils. Bill
Bill, when preparing to do a panel line wash using oil paint over clear acrylic...what is the difference (if any) between Turpenoid versus enamel thinner?
Turpenoid is milder then turpentine
Personally I prefer weathering over the final paint. I have always found ways to prevent damaging the paint. For rust I have used washes and drybrushing. One advantage of rust over final paint is that you can use varied shades of rust. Look at real rusted surfaces- they are not all uniform in color.
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