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Floating Clear areas;

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  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Floating Clear areas;
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Friday, December 18, 2020 2:02 PM


     Now I realize that many models of any category, Do Not, have clear areas. What if you created some of your own? To float a clear area on a model already clear is easy. The first and most important is to polish the heck out of it. Then wear Light cotton Gloves( Like they do for Rarities in a Museum like M.O.M.A.)

 Then you establish where you want something seen. You leave the clear spot and mist the paint gently around that area. So doing that, you keep the Aircraft, Car or Ship's lines intact. The important Thing is to remember to keep a supply of C.D. Gem cases-clear on both sides. These will react very Quickly to a hair dryer on high and a mold made, believe it or not, from the actual model as a buck. It won't stick if you wax the model part first. Don't over heat of force the plastic by adding more heat!

       Then taking this piece Put it in the area you want clear. Cut to fit the hole in the solid side or whatever area and slip into the hole. Try to fit as accurately as possible and then glue in place with Watchmaker cement or Testor's Window maker. Then. Mist your paint around the edge and viola! You have  created a floated model. It's NOT as hard as it sounds.But, be warned this is mainly for the detail Freaks out there. I proudly admit I am one!

      It will and can take that larger model a notch upwards. if folks can see part of the innards! Just think of how many greeblies you can use up that way.(Gotta Make More room for them right?) How I got started as far as ships were concerned a long story ,to long for here. I bought a Japanese Carrier Kit. 1/700! It had a detailed hangar bay.One clear deck. I polished it and it got frostier. So I cut holes in it, freeform, Took my trusty gem cases made clear pieces by using the holes for the guide with a fresh X-Acto knife and then carefully cut them out. I cut the edge of the holes on an angle( Chamfered) did the same to the deck and they dropped in without so much as an edge.This is not the rule though.

      So be careful and you too can " Float" see through areas on your models. Don't be afraid to experiment. This applies to any model Machinery or Buildings you want show off some "Innards"

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Saturday, December 19, 2020 9:25 AM

I sometimes do the opposite.  Most older paints chalk when out in the sunlight for more than a couple of months.  They lightened in color and the gloss faded.  I take a flat light (very light) gray and start with the top of the fuselage, putting down a very light coat.  As I go around the sides I lighten the coat even more, down to widest point.  Then I stop.  I also put a coat on tops of wing and horizontal tail surfaces.

Similar techniques work on vehicles and ships.

In the seventies good paints that were UV stabilized appeared, so you do not need to do as much of this on newer projects.

This also fades decals nicely.



Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Saturday, December 19, 2020 12:28 PM

Hi Don;

 This is another way to age the model and equipment as you create the " Float "areas!


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