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I'm troubleshooting an oil wash with Hobby Lobby Master's Touch oil paint and turpenoid, seems to mix well while wet, but then granules seem to clump once the turpenoid evaporates, doesn't look right. I wonder if the quality of the paint is the issue, and whether I should invest in Winsor and Newton Artist paint for example. I'm using an acrylic basecoat of paint, followed by Future clear coat. From all that I've read, a wash shouldn't be this hard...thanks for any advice.
I'm a cheapskate and try to cut costs wherever I can but never on paints. Yes I think your problems with oil wash come from the low quality oil paint used. Quality oils are more finely milled and consistant giving you a smoother consistancy that you're after, and they blend well using good thinner as well. Yes the tubes are more expensive but a tube of oils will last you a lifetime considering how little is used on a model. Windsor and Newton are my go to's .
When using oils for a wash you still have to stir the mix constantly even with the good stuff.
I'm finally retired. Now time I got, money I don't.
Same thing here but when using paint thinner from Hone Depot. I started using the Testors enamel thinner (red can) and problem solved.
Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!
Another good tube-type oil paint is Abteilung.
"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."
I've been using Wilder oil based paints with Mona Lisa thinner with good results. The Mona Lisa thinner is odorless and not as "hot" as the Testors airbrush thinner in the red can. Just my 2 cents...
Bruce
On the bench: 1/48 Eduard MiG-21MF
1/35 Takom Merkava Mk.I
hogfanfs I've been using Wilder oil based paints with Mona Lisa thinner with good results. The Mona Lisa thinner is odorless and not as "hot" as the Testors airbrush thinner in the red can. Just my 2 cents...
Have heard good thing about ML thinner.
Thanks for the help. Will definitely try at least a tube of the Winsor and Newton. I also bought some of the Tamiya panel line accent, seems enamel-based, still need to practice.
Tankvater Thanks for the help. Will definitely try at least a tube of the Winsor and Newton. I also bought some of the Tamiya panel line accent, seems enamel-based, still need to practice.
I only use W&N and Abteliung with no issues.
I usually use white spirits to thin oils, but you can use enamel thinner and i also mix oils paints with enamels. Works fine.
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On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3
Bish I only use W&N and Abteliung with no issues. I usually use white spirits to thin oils, but you can use enamel thinner and i also mix oils paints with enamels. Works fine.
I've been using the Michaels store brand (Artist's Loft) with Weber Terpenoid and it seems to work fine. The Windsor oils I noticed do dissolve quicker though.
On Ed's bench, ???
This might be off topic or not but I suspect that Testors red can thinner has a degree of lacquer thinner in it, thus a little hot. Not hot like straight lacquer thinner but enough. I don't use that though, I use hardware store odorless mineral spirits for enamel and oils.
To the point of the thread though, I agree to maybe upgrade to WN or other name brand. Even their students grade is probably finer ground than a store brand. And some form of turps or odoless MS.
All that said my favorite washes I make up from Duncan Stains which are oil but water clean up. They don't offer many anymore in this line these days. I notice that Windsor Newton has an oil paint line that is like this as well, wondering if anyone has tried that route ? My understanding is that they can be cleaned up while partially wet with water or else odorless mineral spirits otherwise.
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