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Pre-Build Washing, Regular and Resin..

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  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Pre-Build Washing, Regular and Resin..
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Thursday, January 27, 2022 10:18 AM

Hi Ya'll;

    I have seen recent posts about Washing resin.This is why I am posting this.. Years ago( too many to let you know) I spray painted a car kit. The paint came out with (Fisheye)!

   Fisheye is caused by spots of impurities on the surface of the model or 1:1 item to be painted! This is why things are prepped a certain way. Now washing a model is not as hard as it might sound.

   First and most important-Wash ALL parts in Warm, Not HOT water. Wash them ON the Sprues!No lost parts that way. If you have loose tiny parts do this. Get a permanent wash basket it the form of a Mr.Coffee Permanent mesh filter. The filter material is fine enough to keep your parts together and let you gently swirl them in a bowl of water with one or two drops of Regular Dawn Detergent in it.

   Do Not use scented dish-soap or the New improved varieties. The chemical residue cane sometimes cause problems. Even after rinsing under flowing warm water while swirling. 

      One thing that helps, especially with resin, but regular styrene and Vac-Formed parts is a very soft BABY toothbrush. This of course on the larger parts. If you follow this regimen closely you will always get a good paint adhesion on your model.

     NOTE; for those of you who have Clear-Coated your model for decaling.Take a Damp Soft cloth and warmed Distilled water and wipe your model using Non-Latex gloves while handling. That way if a decal goes in a spot where you have touched the model, You won't have to worry about Body Oil interference with the Decal adhering

    This whole regimen also applies to Brass and other metal parts. Many mfgrs. make Stainless parts these MUST be treated the same way!   

     

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Thursday, January 27, 2022 8:44 PM

TB,

You do say it happened many years ago with the fisheye,maybe a much older kit with a lot of mold release on it? For me with newer kits I have not had that problem even though I never washed a kit.However I do prime with enamel,and I do scrub my resin parts and metal track links,and use metal primer on etch.

Funny how some advocate washing,and as many never do it

  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Saturday, January 29, 2022 8:41 AM

Hi Tojo:

     Well, I find that many do not. That's alright, I just got in the habit many years ago when Building those old Metal Hubley Classic car kits. Mold Release agent on plastic, was a problem with some early kits from Europe, Especially those branded from Western European nations for Import here.

     I also do it during construction of my Scratch-Built ships as I handle them so much. The fact is if you scratch-build a lot, those added parts should be washed so as not to cause Skin Oil Problems. Especially any Metal Parts!

    I also do this when I re-construct a Glue Bomb or Pre-Built model That I recieve from someone else. This way a pristinely clean surface is presented for paint

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Saturday, January 29, 2022 11:14 AM

Whether its resin or plastic, I always cut all of my smaller parts for a particular sub-assembly off the sprue...then clean them up, trim them, etc. before doing test fits.  Once I'm happy with the test fit, everything goes in a little Zip-loc container full of Simple Green for a soak.  After they soak in that for about an hour, then I put them into a fine-mesh kitchen strainer and rinse them under hot water.  After the rinse, everything gets a quick dunk in 99% Isopropyl Alcohol before being put on a paper towel to dry.  The dip in alcohol is mostly just to speed the drying time up.

Larger parts that don't fit in the Zip-loc containers (I have a medium and large one each for the Simple Green and the alcohol) get a scrub with Comet and water solution using a cheap electric toothbrush and a good scrub under running hot water with that same cheap electric toothbrush to get all of the Comet residue off.

Might be overkill, but I get consistent results, so I see no need to try skipping the step.  I do this after all of the prep work and test fitting is done to remove those skin oils TB mentioned  Might do a second wash after filling any ejector pin marks, again to remove the skin oils and other possible contaminants.  Not sure if its necessary or not, but I just do it for the sake of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".

PE parts get a scuffing with 320 grit sandpaper, then a rubdown with lacquer thinner, then some Gunze Mr. Metal Primer.

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by keavdog on Saturday, January 29, 2022 11:23 AM

I think it's mostly a thing of the past (knock on wood).  I've had this happen to me with a couple old plastic kits and older (verlinden) resin figures.  You can kinda feel the plastic/resin and feel the release agent - it's a bit oily but subtle.  All the modern kits I have are fine, but never hurts to be too careful.

Thanks,

John

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Tuesday, February 1, 2022 9:19 AM

Well, I have been building plastic models since the 1970s and have never washed a plastic kit in all those years. Never had an issue with paint adhesion, etc.

I did recently wash one plastic kit because the instructions said to do so. I do make sure I wash my hands before handling the plastic to minimize skin oils from getting on but a swipe with a cotton pad and iso can clean things up really quick.

Resin parts I do wash in Dawn and a soft toothbrush then let them air dry. 

Bottom line, do whatever works for you  either way.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Wednesday, February 2, 2022 12:17 PM

I don't always wash styrene kits; when I was a kid (b. 1964) and started building models, I never heard of the idea and never would have thought of it.

I first learned of the idea when dealing with resin kits.  The release agents used by many makers of resin kits, particular in past years, left a lot of residue on the parts.  It was common among builders of such kits to wash the parts to remove the residue.

I've read that in the early days of injection-molded styrene, some companies' kits sometimes had some mold-release residue on them, too.  But like I said, I never washed kits back then, and I never noticed any issues.  But I was a kid, too, and happy with my results no matter what.  I left the hobby when I graduated high school, and by then, still hadn't gotten to the point where I'd notice that much, if there was a positive effect to washing parts or not.

Fast-forward 15 years or so and coming back into the hobby.  I read about washing kits, as I said above, in the context of resin kits.  And I learned that some modelers wash their styrene, too.

Sometimes I do, sometimes I don't  I haven't noticed an effect, either way.  Sometimes I do it more as a meditative step before actual assembly, another point, after looking at the kit in a catalog, and thinking how much fun it would be to build it; after looking at the box, and thinking how much fun it would be to build it; and after opening the box and looking at the sprues, and thinking how much fun it will be to build it.  Washing the parts is one more step to think about the build.

Now, I opened a kit last night and just sat down and started assembling, without cleaning the parts.  I've had 20 years to think about that particular kit, so I didn't need more time to reflect on it.

When I do clean kit parts, I use a glass baking dish big enough to fit the sprues, warm water, and a couple of drops of Super Clean.  I used to use dishwashing liquid, but Super Clean is a more effective de-greaser.  That's the key-the cleaning agent should be a de-greaser.

Best regards,

Brad

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Sunday, February 13, 2022 9:19 AM

Hi Brad!

      Yeah ,that's kinda where I am at now. I only have one resin kit left and that's the Valiant Signet automobile. I didn't start it right away and that was bad. When I did start it I discovered it only had three of the stock wheel covers. So.

        Washed it like you said, with Super Clean( Great Minds think Alike??) and found some wheel covers( Dog Dish) for 13s and now I will build her. Surprisingly after two years in the Garage with no air conditioning here in Central Texas, No Warping has occured!

   P.S. as a side note. Many companies recommend washing. There's a lot I didn't do that to. They still look fine to me and built easily enough as well!

 

     

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