What I don't like about Model Master Paints

I know the problem you're talking about.  The real trick with the Model Master bottles is to wipe off the top of jar after you open it each time.  I also wipe off the interior of the lid each time.  I don't it try to get it spotless, I just wipe up most of the paint in the lid.

Jesse

usmc1371 wrote:

I know the problem you're talking about.  The real trick with the Model Master bottles is to wipe off the top of jar after you open it each time.  I also wipe off the interior of the lid each time.  I don't it try to get it spotless, I just wipe up most of the paint in the lid. Jesse

+1

I've been doing this for years, and haven't had problems with the cardboard sticking any longer.

You can make new cap liners using high gloss cardboard (not corrugated) that is found in most high-end packaging; look for packaging that is glossy white on one side.  I hand paint several coats of gloss enamel on both sides.  After that dries I use a circle template to draw a liner slightly larger than needed and cut them out with scissors.  The circles don't have to be perfect since you actually want them to be slightly oversize.  The glossy white side faces the paint.

I also got into the habit of using small squares of plastic wrap between the cap and bottle.  This prevents dried out paint and sticking caps.

My problem with MM paints is something else. A few days ago I opened a preiously unopened bottle of RAF Dark Green only to find it was dried to putty. Not happy and not the first time it's happened.

I solved the messy cap problem years ago the same way most everyone else who has commented here has.

Thanks for all your input.  My hope is that someone had come up with an aftermarket seal similar to the ones that Badger uses in its replacement jars.  To me it looks like some sort of plastic ring. That in my feable mind would make a simple aftermarket fix for MM paint jars.

  Cheers...

Dave

EZSnapes wrote:

I also got into the habit of using small squares of plastic wrap between the cap and bottle.  This prevents dried out paint and sticking caps.

Bingo! This works very well, the only caveat is that if paint gets splashed against the plastic wrap you need to be careful that dried paint doesn't fall back inside the bottle when peeling it off. Otherwise a cheap and easy solution to the stuck cap problem.

No question about it, they do tend to dry or congeal faster than other brands. I store mine upside down to curb this, but it really doesn't stop the process altogether. Doubly so for the acrylic versions.

I had the same problem with Floquil Polly paints too.

As mentioned above, Tamiya paints seem to be the front runner in the longevity department. I have some that are well over 8 years old and still fully usable.

Humbrol, in spite of their funky tins packaging, will last the long haul if properly sealed up too. I believe they have recently changed the container to a screw top, no?

I'm another of those who try to clean both the cap interior and the top (lid) of my Testors paints after each useage.  In the past however, I have managed to either loose or tear the gasket for one reason or another.  I've had good luck making new gaskets out of the plastic from the side of a plastic milk jug.  Cut out a circle of plastic the proper diameter, clean the inside of the lid, insert the new plastic gasket and screw the lid back onto the jar.

Thanks for the idea, when I get back home I'll have to give it a try.  I suppose in conjunction with the cardboard insert would make a good seal.

 Thanks, and have a happy Christmas.

D

I have been using Testors (both MM and plain) for years and have always had the stuck lid problem as well as having to pry off the insert on occasion.

Thanks to all who posted about using plastic wrap.  I just started doing that (well, actually I am using Press-N-Seal, but it seems to work okay) and am slowing "fixing" all my jars.

I'll also try the milk jug cut out idea too when I get to one of my crusted on inserts.