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Enamel Paint, Gloss to Seal Decals?

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  • Member since
    January 2022
  • From: Colorado
Enamel Paint, Gloss to Seal Decals?
Posted by ModelMadness on Wednesday, June 1, 2022 10:06 PM

So pretty much done with my painting of a B-25J Mitchell.  Used the Testors Aluminum since the plane is that color.  Decals went on and some areas had really raised details.  But good ole Walther's made them set down like it was painted.

So now to gloss it to seal the decals.  Been reading posts around here, but practically all of them talk about the paint they used were Acrylic or Lacquer.  Some say they used the same paint clear like Tamiya X-22 or Future for glossing.  What I did not find was a post with what gloss to cover enamel paint?

My intentions are to gloss the bomber, add my panel lines and washes then dulcote it since I have a lot of that Testors Dulcote.

But what Clear Gloss to use over the whole plane to seal the decals on a plane that has enamel paint?  Does Future still work and will it work over enamel?  Looking forward for the responses,

Thank you everyone

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by keavdog on Wednesday, June 1, 2022 10:28 PM

Future will work fine.

I saw this somewhere and saved it (maybe it was here)

 

Thanks,

John

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Thursday, June 2, 2022 6:19 AM

Not a big fan of Future, but it will work.  Keep in mind though that how well it works depends on the formulation.  The Pledge Floor Care (Future) that I have has a tendancy to crack and turn yellow.  If it was me, and I was finishing it off with Testors Dullcote, I would use Testors Glosscote if you can still get it.  As far as paint compatibility goes, how much of a factor that is depends on how heavy you're applying your paint.  If you're hand brushing or rattle-canning, then compatibility is absolutely critical.  With airbrushing, I have found that as long as I give the base coat sufficient time to cure, that I can put any paint over the top of any other paint.  But, I also airbrush at low pressure and low volume, so my primer, paint, and clear coat(s) go on extremely light and thin.  When doing it like that, it is dry to the touch almost immediately after being applied and doesn't get a chance to attack whatever is underneath it.  Never have been into the firehose technique with an airbrush...I figure if I'm doing it like that, I might as well be using a rattle can.  Might want to get some plastic spoons and try out your ideas on those before committing to anything on the model you have put so much work into.  Everybody has different ways that work best for them.

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Thursday, June 2, 2022 6:40 AM

I have been using Future for over 20 years and have never had a cracking or yellowing issue. Future will go over anything, hand brushed or sprayed over flat paint. If used as an overcoat over a metallic finish, even though its gloss it will kill some of the reflectivity. AK has a product called Gauzy Gloss Enhancer that sprays on over metallics like Alclad and will not kill the reflectivity as seen on my F84.

Why would you want to destroy the metal reflectivity by spraying Dullcoat which gives a dead flat finish? I never seal decals unless I want the decal sheen to match the aircraft finish. You can be assured that the Solvaset you used on tge decals are melted on to the surface and are on for good. I have been using Solvaset since the 70’s and has worker EVERY time for me, great stuff.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    January 2022
  • From: Colorado
Posted by ModelMadness on Thursday, June 2, 2022 7:01 AM

Thank you for all the replies which makes sense.

PlasticJunkie - you are right, I guess I should have been more detailed in what I meant on dulcote.  I should have said for the black areas like the front nose and engine cowls where the pilot does not want anything reflective; flat black.

In my case my models get handled; not a lot, but they do so sealing the decal is something I want to do as my P-47 and P-51 decals have come off or tore from the handling.  But your point is valid as those I did not have Walther's. 

I have my first airbrush and airbrushing the plane was fun and easier.  Now for the future.  Question to you though is that my mother-in-law gave me three futures (her new house is mainly carpet) so she had them and gave them to me (I have hardwood floors).  They are different though.  Since you use Future, any thing to look out for; in this case I have two different kinds.  Or have you seen that using any Future makes no difference?

Nice F-84, used enamel as the base?

Thank you

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Thursday, June 2, 2022 7:08 AM

I have never found Future to be effective, its for floors,stopped using it decades ago.My go to clears are Alclad Aqua Gloss,or Vallejo.I have also used Testors lacquers.Any of these work on enamels.

  • Member since
    January 2022
  • From: Colorado
Posted by ModelMadness on Thursday, June 2, 2022 7:09 AM

Thank you for the reply Eaglecash867.  If you do not use Future then what do you use over enamel?  Just saw that Tamiya has an enamel line so they must have a clear coat (will read up after work).

I am new to airbrushing and my first attempt (this B-25) was a great success.  I used a No#1 needle at 15-20psi and covered the plane about 3 times with like you mentioned.  Light misting each coat and came out really nice.  I did primer then the aluminum.

To do the Future (if I go this route) then same application; misting?

I am a bit apprehensive to Testors Glosscote as I had it destroy 2 plane decals in the past.  They were old, but I was scarred :-)  But as you mentioned hard to find.  What are you using for a glosscote over enamel paint?  What brand?

Thank you

  • Member since
    January 2022
  • From: Colorado
Posted by ModelMadness on Thursday, June 2, 2022 7:12 AM

Thanks for the reply Tojo72.  I do read up on this and Alclad always comes up in the reading.  Just never knew if it can go over enamel paint, but early on a reponse showing the table of what can go over what really helped me out.

Thank you

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Thursday, June 2, 2022 8:48 AM

Thanks. Base coat on the F84 is Testors gloss black enamel, polished out then Alclad was sprayed. The Gauzy product was sprayed to protect the Alclad from the masking tape used for masking. Decals are after market applied with Solvaset, no sealing coat was sprayed.

My Future bottles are older but here is a great video

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lUgUIPQwxn4

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Thursday, June 2, 2022 9:05 AM

ModelMadness

Thank you for the reply Eaglecash867.  If you do not use Future then what do you use over enamel?  Just saw that Tamiya has an enamel line so they must have a clear coat (will read up after work).

I am new to airbrushing and my first attempt (this B-25) was a great success.  I used a No#1 needle at 15-20psi and covered the plane about 3 times with like you mentioned.  Light misting each coat and came out really nice.  I did primer then the aluminum.

To do the Future (if I go this route) then same application; misting?

I am a bit apprehensive to Testors Glosscote as I had it destroy 2 plane decals in the past.  They were old, but I was scarred :-)  But as you mentioned hard to find.  What are you using for a glosscote over enamel paint?  What brand?

Thank you

 

Right now, my go-to gloss clear coat over anything but Alclad would be MRP Super Clear Gloss.  It is the most trouble-free clear coat I have used so far.  But, considering the fact that you're wanting to do a wash/weathering after you protect your decals, a gloss clear coat might not be what you want to use.  Gloss tends to not hold onto any of the wash/weathering you have done when you wipe off the excess wash/weathering.  It might be better to use something like MRP Super Clear Semi Gloss (or Semi Matt if you want a dirtier, stained, and blotchy look for your weathering).  Each step toward matt for a clear coat will retain more and more of your wash and lead to a dirtier and dirtier appearance.  I'm using the MRP Super Clear Semi Gloss to protect the decals prior to my wash on the F-4B I'm building...it is also helping with smoothing the edges of the decals.  Here is what it looks like with the clear coat, prior to the wash.  It just goes straight into the airbrush and onto the model.  No need to thin it or mess with it in any way.  Love the MRP stuff.

The forward part of the fuselage shows the end result, after the wash (Flory Grime) and MRP Super Clear Matt have been applied.

 

 

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    March 2022
  • From: Twin cities, MN
Posted by missileman2000 on Thursday, June 2, 2022 9:25 AM

Surprisingly, Testors laquer clearcoats do work over Testors enamels without a problem.  I usually do not bother to seal decals if the finish is what I want, like glossy airliners.  I find a glosscoat too glossy for a natural aluminum finish.  I think a semi-gloss overcoat is more appropriate if you must seal it.

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Thursday, June 2, 2022 2:08 PM

What matters most is what you are going to use for weathering washes. If you clear coat with solvent based clear, you can't use solvent based washes.

 

Bill

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Thursday, June 2, 2022 2:20 PM

GMorrison

What matters most is what you are going to use for weathering washes. If you clear coat with solvent based clear, you can't use solvent based washes.

 

Bill

 

Agree with GM.  Do your self a favor and get some Flory Washes. They are water/clay based and are fantastic and super safe on any finish. You apply them, let them dry and wipe off excess with a water damp paper towel or Q Tip. Super easy.

 

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Thursday, June 2, 2022 5:14 PM

Another vote for Flory.  It changed everything for me with weathering.  I just slop the stuff on with a big brush and then remove the excess a half hour later with a damp sponge or Q-Tip.  A US dealer that I get mine from is High Altitude Hobbies in Leadville, Colorado.

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Thursday, June 2, 2022 6:02 PM

Eaglecash867

Another vote for Flory.  It changed everything for me with weathering.  I just slop the stuff on with a big brush and then remove the excess a half hour later with a damp sponge or Q-Tip.  A US dealer that I get mine from is High Altitude Hobbies in Leadville, Colorado.

 

Im in love with these washes. You can work them into streaking in aircraft as one example. Yes

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

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