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Help with Vallejo & airbrushing

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  • Member since
    October 2016
  • From: Louisiana Gulf South
Help with Vallejo & airbrushing
Posted by Mrchntmarine on Wednesday, February 28, 2024 1:41 PM

Feels like ive done this before, but....  Ive had a little trouble AB Vallejo Model Color 70.842 - gloss white.  Im using the badger extreme patriot 105 at around 16psi to start - went as high as 20 and as low as 14 with thinner mix....

 

I started with 10 drops paint, 2 drops vallejo AB thinner 71.361 and 2 drops vallejo AB flow improver 71.262.  I 1st shot a little improver alone then the paint in the cup, then the thinner then the improver & mixed and shot at 16psi.

 

The issue was dry tip i think.  It just seemed like only a llittle paint would come out then nothing.  Wipe the tip and try again.  A little would come out again, then nothing.  I then thinned the paint a little with more thinner and decreased the pressure.  Same issue. 

 

Also, in the process i had paint drying on the sides of the cup so that when i added a little more paint & thinner, etc., the paint had skimmed on the inside of the cup.

 

May i get some tips as to what to to try so i can get back on track?

 

I have this white i need to use and another shade i have to figure out then back to my Tamiya which i seem to have less trouble with.   TKS much!!    Wm

 

 

Keep on modeling!

All the best,

William

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Wednesday, February 28, 2024 2:19 PM

Sorry to be a weisenheimer, but the only advice I can offer is to just go back to using the Tamiya paint.  Not a fan of airbrushing Vallejo paint, its a lot more trouble than its worth.

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Wednesday, February 28, 2024 4:38 PM

The 10-2-2 mix has never failed me,could be the white,tough to use with any brand.I have taken to using  Tamiya white primer in the rattle can,covers nicely.

  • Member since
    October 2016
  • From: Louisiana Gulf South
Posted by Mrchntmarine on Wednesday, February 28, 2024 4:50 PM

Sorry forgot to add .33 needle. 

the reason I picked VMC is I couldnt find the color in Tamiya. 

Keep on modeling!

All the best,

William

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Thursday, February 29, 2024 5:53 AM

Mrchntmarine

the reason I picked VMC is I couldnt find the color in Tamiya. 

 
Is there something that makes a critical difference with the VMC gloss white versus Tamiya gloss white?  Just curious.  As Tojo said, gloss white model paint in general is just a PITA to deal with most of the time.  Its often better to use white primer like he mentioned, or a flat white paint and then putting a gloss clearcoat on top of it.  Personally, i use MRP white, but that's a lacquer and I understand that not everybody wants to use lacquers.  Trouble-free stuff though, without having to add anything to it, not even thinner.  Doesn't need a gloss clearcoat afterward either, because almost all of their paints are semi-gloss/gloss which eliminates the step of having to put on a gloss clearcoat over a flat paint just to get decals to lay down correctly.  I use their white on landing gear, landing gear bays, and weapons bays on modern military aircraft.  Works great!

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    September 2017
  • From: Roanoke Virginia
Posted by Strongeagle on Thursday, February 29, 2024 9:58 AM

Dear Eaglecash,

"Sorry to be a weisenheimer, but the only advice I can offer is to just go back to using the Tamiya paint.  Not a fan of airbrushing Vallejo paint, its a lot more trouble than its worth."

 

Love your candor. I'm about ready to throw in with you on this one.  I continue to use Vallejo Air and Vallejo Color and always feel that I haven't got it quite right yet.  When it works it's wonderful, but it seems to not work more times lately than it works.  I'll continue to take my punishment until I finally give up on Vallejo, but I'm not there yet.

  • Member since
    October 2016
  • From: Louisiana Gulf South
Posted by Mrchntmarine on Thursday, February 29, 2024 11:19 AM

Eaglecash867

 

 
Mrchntmarine

the reason I picked VMC is I couldnt find the color in Tamiya. 

 

 

 
Is there something that makes a critical difference with the VMC gloss white versus Tamiya gloss white?  
 

 

So its not so much the gloss white.  As mentioned , i can gloss over the white Tamiya primer i used.  BUT, i started with VMC gloss white and its a pain so far.  I had a hard time finding a color i liked for the deck - the LHS didnt have a lot of choices and i setteled for another Vallajo color - Calavery Brown - 70.982.  So i figuring if i had this much trouble - again - with the gloss white, i was in for another treat with the brown.

 

Who knows, maybe not - as whites in general are trouble for me.  And, the brown may not even look right.  we'll see.....

Keep on modeling!

All the best,

William

  • Member since
    October 2016
  • From: Louisiana Gulf South
Posted by Mrchntmarine on Thursday, February 29, 2024 11:21 AM

what i was most interested in is what ratios, etc, psi especially for .33 needles , people use for VMC.  maybe ill try a little bigger needle...

Keep on modeling!

All the best,

William

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Thursday, February 29, 2024 6:53 PM

Strongeagle
Love your candor. I'm about ready to throw in with you on this one.  I continue to use Vallejo Air and Vallejo Color and always feel that I haven't got it quite right yet.  When it works it's wonderful, but it seems to not work more times lately than it works.  I'll continue to take my punishment until I finally give up on Vallejo, but I'm not there yet.

Thanks Strongeagle,

I bought a bunch of the Vallejo Model Air paint way back when I was starting on the exterior paint work on an FB-111A build, and I was pretty jazzed about how great it was going to be since I had heard such good things about it.  Not my cup of tea.  It was difficult to get it to spray consistently and predictably, and even after weeks of letting it dry, it just never felt like it had much more than a tenuous grasp on the plastic.  That was the FS36622 camouflage grey paint, so I decided to press on and go to the lightest colors in the SIOP camo scheme.  The FS34201 looked about right, but I still wasn't happy with how it felt after weeks of drying.  Then came their FS34159, and that was when I went back to Model Master.  Vallejo's version of it wasn't even close.  It's supposed to be a nice, grey-blue-green color, but their's was basically just another shade of brown.  My Vark ended up looking like it was wearing desert camouflage.  Stripped all of it off...which was extremely easy due to poor adhesion...and went with some decanted Model Master Enamels that I had still been able to find in spray cans.  The Model Master looked exactly right...did have a long cure time...but when it cured, it was on the model.  It was much more durable.  I know there are techniques for getting Vallejo to perform well, but there were so many better options available, I just didn't see the point in beating my head against the wall.  Then MRP came along, and well, that paint is my go-to now...LOVE the stuff.  Very durable, no BS or fiddling with it, and a complete cure in less than 1 hour.  Lets me focus on actually building and finishing the model, rather than figuring out how to make a troublesome paint happy.  I still have lots of Tamiya paint as well, which also is pretty much hassle free for airbrushing.

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    November 2018
Posted by oldermodelguy on Friday, March 1, 2024 6:02 AM

IMO, for MC you want at least 50-50 thinning solution to paint, whatever your combo of thinner solution may be, and maybe more with a finer needle. I thin it around 50-50 with a larger needle. And try around 23 psi, even 25 is not unthinkable. MC is a thick paint and intended to be brushed, so you have to do your own airbrush ready mix so to speak. And one suited to your system and airbrush used.

Just try it on some primed spare parts. You can always back the thinner off if need be, but I doubt that will be the case. And more flow improver in the blend should help the tip dry. Also I highly recommend heat setting between coats, this will aid in relieving that tacky feel of the finish. Just a suggestion.

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