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Aztek

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  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Hayward, CA
Posted by MikeV on Sunday, November 7, 2004 4:18 AM
My pleasure Andy.
Putting the needle in through the front is recommended by Badger also as it helps eliminate problems such as you had.
Just don't take the airbrush apart all the time and parts will last longer.
Many people think you need to disassemble the airbrush after each use but that is not necessary.

Mike

Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, November 7, 2004 11:09 AM
From my experience if your spraying laquer and it comes out like webs, strings and such it is not thinned enough.
John
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, November 7, 2004 3:22 PM
mike, how do you suggest i put the needle in the fron of my 155?
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Hayward, CA
Posted by MikeV on Sunday, November 7, 2004 4:17 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by 1337

mike, how do you suggest i put the needle in the fron of my 155?


You can't! Laugh [(-D]
You have to put it in from the back, but it's no big deal if you do it gently.

Mike

Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: SETX. USA
Posted by tho9900 on Sunday, November 7, 2004 7:38 PM
ok, I have to admit I was gonna ask the same question (facetiously of course) ... personally I *LIKE* the big stainless bead on the end.. it's somewhat comforting when I pull that thing out by that knob... it's got SUBSTANCE!
---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, November 7, 2004 8:25 PM
it's manly
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: SETX. USA
Posted by tho9900 on Sunday, November 7, 2004 9:05 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by 1337

it's manly



thank you... I was gonna say that but I am glad you did... Clown [:o)]
---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, November 7, 2004 10:41 PM
are you not MAN enough for that,iwata users Big Smile [:D]
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, November 8, 2004 1:55 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by jfrejo

From my experience if your spraying laquer and it comes out like webs, strings and such it is not thinned enough.
John


Bingo! When I'm spraying lacquers such as Mr. Color or Mr. Surfacer I thin my paint mixtures with at least 50% lacquer thinner by ratio. The cobwebs are a sign that the paint is drying before it reaches the surface. I also bought a product called Mr. Retarder Mild by Gunze Sangyo and it helps by prolonging the drying time of lacquers (side benefit here is that it's easier for me to clean my airbrush), though one can manage without it as long as the thinner is sufficient.

Cheers,
onyan
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Southern California, USA
Posted by ABARNE on Monday, November 8, 2004 2:37 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by MikeV

Putting the needle in through the front is recommended by Badger

I actually dug out the instructions that can with it, assuming I was an idiot for not reading the things carefully enough, but they didn't mention sliding the needly abck into the body from the front. I still like your idea better than putting it back in from the back. It seems a lot easier to remember where the adjustment nuts are positioned compared to trying to thread the blasted thing all the way down the body.

QUOTE:
Just don't take the airbrush apart all the time and parts will last longer.
Many people think you need to disassemble the airbrush after each use but that is not necessary.


That had been my modus operandi. I had actually taken it all the way apart, only once or twice previously, with the normal cleanout by spraying thinner through it after each use keeping it nicely clean. And then I decided to use it for spraying a Future Gloss coat. The poor thing got a bit clogged, so I figured a more thorough cleaning was in order, particularly since I normally use enamel rather than acrylic.

The next obvious suggestion is to get a separate airbrush for acrylics and avoid the whole problem entirely. So I went out and I found a Paasche EZ-Starter, basically a Paasch H single action but with a plastic body. It was only about twenty bucks, but it works like a champ for acrylic clear coats.
  • Member since
    October 2004
Posted by texas on Tuesday, November 9, 2004 5:38 AM
My Aztek 470 works exactly as advertised. Be sure to use the right nozzle for your application. I soak my nozzles after each session to prevent clogs. Air pressure, humidity, temperature and thinning ratios cannot be ignored. Try reading FSM articles for more info.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, November 30, 2004 3:34 PM
http://www.finescale.com/fsm/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=28067
should tell u
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