Brush stroke marks?

The key to brush painting from my experience comes down to 3 things:

1. make sure the paint is thin enough to flow, if it doesn't cover the first time, leave it alone. Give it a little time to dry before going over it again with a another coat. Patience.

2. Keep a wet edge, that is slightly overlap one stroke from another before the paint from the first stroke is dried.

3. Use a clean soft brush soft - if the hairs are sticking together you will not get smooth paint coverage. Make sure the brush is big enough for the job, minimizes brush strokes need to cover the area.

gah Im convinced its impossible. I buy the best paint brushes and try all the tricks; and its still NOTHING like an airbrushed finish.

only thing I havent tried was enamel, I like the cleanliness of acrylics.

unless its extremely small; as in too small to have a brush mark visible, it gets airbrushed. I think my blood pressure went down 30 points when I went that way.

QUOTE: Originally posted by ares unless its extremely small; as in too small to have a brush mark visible, it gets airbrushed. I think my blood pressure went down 30 points when I went that way.

Lol, I'm hoping it does the same for mine!

Using an appropriate brush for the job in hand is a big help and buy the best quality you can afford. Try not to rebrush an area once the paint has been laid down and do thin the paint so it can settle down nicely. Loading the brush with paint is important and for me this involves dipping the brush in the pot and then wiping the excess on the brim several times over. The aim is to get a good flow from the brush and not allowing the brush to go dry. (Look at photos of pinstriping brushes and the way these artisans load up). Obviously don't go the other way and have paint dripping from the bristles.
Try to paint as quickly as possible whilst still maintaining control and if painting a flat broad surface each time you reload the brush put your first stroke a small distance from the paint edge (stroke 1), use stroke 2 to blend the new paint with the previous edge and stroke 3 is placed so as to advance the new paint to a new edge. Easier to demonstrate than describe. Try to go the complete width of the surface in one stroke but be careful not to wipe the brush on the edge and create a build up of paint on the other side.
Having said all that I just love my airbrush!!

if you like acrylics, then try Vallejo or Pollyscale. Thinned slightly with distilled water and applied to the surface with a soft flat brush, you should get no brush marks at all.

cheers

Mike

Which works better for brush painting: acrylic or enamel?

I heard acrylic was better for brushing.

Acrylics are difficult to hand brush because they dry so fast. By the time you make one pass with the brush they have already started to dry and the second pass causes what is already there to get rough. They do work quite well if you use some retarder to prevent them from drying so fast. Additionally some brands, Vallejo (I think) and Citadel (I know) do hand brush quite well straight from the container. Personally for what little hand brushing that I do I usually use enamel if I have the color I need.

Enamels are the best paints for brush painting. Allow 48 hours between coats with MM enamels to ensure that the second coat doesn't peel up the bottom one and leave brush strokes. Also keep the brush clean. To do this only do a section at a time and then clean the brush. This will prevent paint from drying in the brush. If you do leave brush marks, sand the coat and thin the paint just a little next time when you paint. Paitence is a virtue.

There are self levelers out there for acrylics (Flotrol) and enamels (Penetrol) that are marketed as paint conditioners by paint and hardware stores. Both are compatable with model paints (I use Floquil and Polyscale respectively on most occasions) What they do is retard dry time and make keeping a wet edge possible. Results for me have had the appearance of a sprayed finish at best and a good brushed finsh at worst. In other words, the stuff works.

Should different coats be done in different directions? (e.g. 90 degree offset)

QUOTE: Originally posted by n_lasouris Should different coats be done in different directions? (e.g. 90 degree offset)

depends on the surface, it it has complex ridges/valleys then I always do a coat each way