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Newbie's Fun with paints

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Newbie's Fun with paints
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, September 19, 2005 7:11 AM
well basically im new to teh whole airbrush scene, more so to learn airbrush art for painting computer, bikes, etc

but anyway i picked up some Acrylic Lacquer Thinner and Acr Lac Clear Coat, and tried it through my airbrush i just recently got
ive used waterbased acrylic through it before, its pretty damn easy.

but on trying the acrylic lacquer clear coat straight from tin, it was too thick for my .35mm nozzle, about 20psi, siphin fed from bottle and i tried cup as well. so i thinned it down more and more but it didnt spray through very good, question is, should i invest in a bigger nozzle n needle for this paint? it's an ebay airbrush, called a h-28? not sure the brand or where to get parts for it, it's dual action, pretty easy to break down.

it sure was fun cleaning it, i used mineral turps to try clean but it was kinda hard with that, the paint clogs together and is like tough jelly, but eventually i got it cleaned out . which leads me to teh second question, what dissolves it? and should i need gloves when handling whatever dissolves it? turps will make lightwork of the other paints i have, it dissolves really good but this stuff is like evil alien goo

final question, what are some good surfaces to learn on? at the moment im just spraying old carboard boxes that have a printed covering, and newspaper as well which isnt good to paint on at all. havent tried office paper yet

thanks
  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Monday, September 19, 2005 9:44 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Archades


it sure was fun cleaning it, i used mineral turps to try clean but it was kinda hard with that, the paint clogs together and is like tough jelly, but eventually i got it cleaned out . which leads me to teh second question, what dissolves it? and should i need gloves when handling whatever dissolves it? turps will make lightwork of the other paints i have, it dissolves really good but this stuff is like evil alien goo


For a lacquer based paint/varnish, you need to use lacquer thinners. If you try to clean up lacquer with turps it will turn into the evil goo from hell.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, September 19, 2005 9:49 AM
ahh thats why
7 bucks a litre though:(
whereas turpentine is chhheeapp, at the discount stores we have
  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Monday, September 19, 2005 11:05 AM
Try an auto parts store for the lacquer thinner.

Plastic pop bottles or milk jugs make good practice targets. Lots of compound curves to get you used to doing bikes!

So long folks!

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, September 19, 2005 2:06 PM
Archades-don't practice on porous materials-find plastic, like BG said, so you learn how not to 'load up' paint and get get runs.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, September 21, 2005 1:17 AM
today i tried the painting again with just alac, no turps, and it worked fine:D, didnt know u had to thin paints down so much, i added more pigment as well, i have candy blue powder u mix with clear coat, i should buy some base coat to learn with as well, but im happy with how it turns out.

i have a gamecube spare casing which i might try a tiny bit on to see if it ruins plastic
purple with electric blue candy should look nice
  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Wednesday, September 21, 2005 2:01 AM
If you're spraying lacquer on a styrene based plastic, do very light coats and let them harden before recoating otherwise it will "eat" the plastic.

Likewise, if you are using a clear lacquer to "seal" a paint job (eg. over enamels or acrylics), the same rules apply. A light coat to seal the paint and then when hardened, the final "finish" coat/s.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, September 22, 2005 7:01 AM
its coming up well, cept that my airbrush is too fine for doing base coats, i have a spare gamecube case that im gonna paint after i learn, going ot city tomorrow to see if i can buy new nozzle and needle for my brush, which looks like the same build as popular brands,

green pearl mixed with electric blue candy looks awesome:D, once it's finished im gonna have one hot looking cube :D

thanks for the milk tip, sounds like a great idea, what is loading up paint though?
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, September 22, 2005 7:04 AM
another note, taking off the needle cap, is spose to make it more accurate, a fine detail trick if u will, but for mine it doesnt seem to do anything at all, around the needle tip, is the 3 airholes, but it doesnt seem to pickup any paint, the head isnt clogged either, does it need even thinner paint to do it?
  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Thursday, September 22, 2005 9:38 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Archades

another note, taking off the needle cap, is spose to make it more accurate, a fine detail trick if u will, but for mine it doesnt seem to do anything at all, around the needle tip, is the 3 airholes, but it doesnt seem to pickup any paint, the head isnt clogged either, does it need even thinner paint to do it?


Erm.... no....

If you were to take the "needle cap" off (if I what I am thinking of is what you actually mean) then I would fully expect the airbrush not to work.

Basically the 3 holes around the base of the needle shroud pass the air into the cap, which then flows out through a miniscule gap around the needle. It is the action of the air flowing through this tiny gap (differential pressure - look up "Bernoulli's Principle) which creates the vacuum (for want of a better word) which draws the paint through the airbrush.

Taking the cap off effectively removes the "concentrator" (again, for want of a better word) and the brush will not function.

Now, with regard to your question about "loading up paint" in your preceding post, it simply means spraying a lot of paint in one spot, which then obscures details and causes runs. As one of the earlier posters mentioned, if you are practicing on a porous material like paper or cardboard, the pain has a tendency to be absorbed and it is less obvious when you are in fact spraying too much paint.
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: USA
Posted by MusicCity on Thursday, September 22, 2005 10:50 AM
On some models the air cap is reversible, for example the Omni series. Perhaps there are some that it can be removed on, I don't know. The three holes, as Phil_H mentioned, are for airflow. Air does NOT blow through the nozzle, it blows around it and pulls paint out. Phil's description is very accurate.
Scott Craig -- Nashville, TN -- My Website -- My Models Page
  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: N.E. Ohio
Posted by dragonfly on Saturday, September 24, 2005 6:02 PM
I use what I believe are the best clear coats available. Polyscale. Great stuff, cleans up with water, no need to thin. No hassle, no problems.

Jerry
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