SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

"paint booth" question

11992 views
46 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Zanesville, OH USA
"paint booth" question
Posted by coldwar68 on Sunday, February 16, 2003 6:12 PM
I was doing some searching around, but found no postings; so I thought that I would ask this question.

What does everybody else do for a "paint booth" while airbrushing? I have thought about building one for my table in the basement. I have the perfect window to vent out of and it is out of a high traffic area. Has anybody else built anything for their basement workbench? I am getting ready to start putting more practice time on my airbrush...but I want to make sure that I am not getting a bunch of fumes in the upstairs of the house. Thanks, and I hope this is not too dumb of a question to start posting withBig Smile [:D].

Jerry

I can picture in my mind a world without war, a world without hate. And I can picture us attacking that world, because they'd never expect it. -Jack Handy

  • Member since
    January 2003
Posted by shermanfreak on Sunday, February 16, 2003 6:19 PM
I've seen some really good ones using a range hood from an stove exhausted outdoors....but mine is quite low tech......a large cardboard box siting on a table in my storage room.

Happy Modelling and God Bless Robert
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: USA
Posted by weebles on Sunday, February 16, 2003 7:40 PM
I built a paint booth many years ago from a plan in Fine Scale Modeler. It's works great for me. The key component is a squirrel cage blower made by Dayton. The blower you use should not produce any spark so that you avoid a possible explosion. I also included a small light fixture on the inside so that I had plenty of light. There is a filter in the rear of the paint area made from a furnace filter cut in half. I just refinished my basement and included ducting to take fumes outside the house. If you are going through a basement window make a cut out the size of the opening, run insulation around the edge to seal, and insert an exhaust port. That way the fumes will go outside and not return. Finally I have a small bracket inside the booth for holding my airbrush. It works great, was cheap to build, and superior to any of the hobby booths I've seen commercially.

It seems to me that FSM had an article on this not too long ago. You might drop them a line and ask which issue.

Here's a linek to one that Paasche produces. It's similar to mine in shape and almost the same size. I 'aid over a hundred bucks for the fan when I built mine some 15 years ago. That's where most of your cost will be. Good luck!

http://www.dickblick.com/zz269/08/products.asp?param=0&ig_id=1541

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: USA
Posted by jcarlberg on Monday, February 17, 2003 5:02 PM
You also need to be sure that your light fixture won't ignite paint vapors or overheat or short out from metallic overspray. All electrical contact points need to be sealed off tightly from any paint spray or solvent spray clouds.
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Zanesville, OH USA
Posted by coldwar68 on Tuesday, February 18, 2003 9:09 AM
Thanks everybody for all of the information. This gives me a lot to think about...my head is probably going to be hurting from itBig Smile [:D].

Jerry

I can picture in my mind a world without war, a world without hate. And I can picture us attacking that world, because they'd never expect it. -Jack Handy

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: USA
Posted by weebles on Tuesday, February 18, 2003 10:13 PM
Not if you have a good paint booth... and don't forget a good respirator! Don't turn your brain to jello!
Smile [:)]
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Zanesville, OH USA
Posted by coldwar68 on Wednesday, February 19, 2003 10:04 AM
ooooohhhh.....jelllo! (In my best Homer Simpson voice)Big Smile [:D] I used the airbrush downstairs in the basement...with the windows open, of course...and the smell still traveled through the house. I am building a small "shop" area with a workbench and I have access to two windows in the one room, I figured I could use that space to build and paint and leave my big toys for the garage...that makes my wife happy too! Slowly, she is getting back her portion of the houseBig Smile [:D]. I really appreciate all of the ideas and tips...they should really help.

Jerry

I can picture in my mind a world without war, a world without hate. And I can picture us attacking that world, because they'd never expect it. -Jack Handy

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, February 19, 2003 10:38 AM
Jerry,
My marriage has been MUCH better since I built a small paint booth. I do agree with davidwaples too, get a good respirator for when you're working with laquer thinners, ca glue, etc. That stuff can be really nasty on the brain and body over time.

M.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: USA
Posted by weebles on Wednesday, February 19, 2003 10:32 PM
Also wear a respirator for acrylics too. They may be water based, but their fumes will turn you into a Homer too.
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Fayetteville, GA
Posted by gawga on Friday, February 21, 2003 10:42 PM
I built a paint hood for myself and I am very satisfied with the results. I suggest that you purchase a fan from grainger.com with an airflow of 500 cfm. The measurements are 20" w. X 12" d. X 14" h. with a front access openning of 18.5" w. X 9" h. This works for 1/48 scale aircraft and 1/35 scale armor quite well.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: USA
Posted by naplak on Saturday, February 22, 2003 10:30 AM
I made a fairly simple booth for myself...

Instructions here:
http://www.naplak.com/modeling/tips/painting_hood.htm

Pretty basic, but it works well and was cheap!

naplak.com/modeling
www.naplak.com/modeling ... a free site for modelers www.scalehobby.com/forum/index.php ... a nice Modeling Forum
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Zanesville, OH USA
Posted by coldwar68 on Wednesday, February 26, 2003 9:45 AM
Thank you everybody for all of your ideas. I will let you all know how my "adventure" goes. I appreciate all of the dimensions and plans too! I think that it will be started this weekend. Wish me luck.

Jerry

I can picture in my mind a world without war, a world without hate. And I can picture us attacking that world, because they'd never expect it. -Jack Handy

  • Member since
    February 2016
Posted by eaglecentral on Saturday, March 1, 2003 11:23 AM
I recently finished building a paint booth and it was quite an experience. Being unable to find for less that a small fortune a Grainger fan, I built a simple tapered box out of masonite, with a front opening of 16x22 (approx). I installed a basic bathroom ventilator unit (50 cfm and $18) in the rear and put a 14x20 paper furnace filter in front of it. My biggest problem was the ducting. My window is about 14 ft and across the room from the booth. Also, the 50 cfm blower needed a boost because it wasn't powerful enough by itself over that distance. Half-way to the window, inside the duct work, I istalled a 6 inch booster fan (ace hardware $20). The combination works great! My family no longer gags a chokes when they come down into the basement after I've been painting. My point is that you can build a simple paint booth easily using commonly available hardware from you local home depot, etc. My biggest expense was the duct work because I had to start with 3 in, go to 4 in, then to 6 in, then back down to 4 in and out the window via the existing dryer vent. The whole thing cost me about a hundred bucks and I had a great time building it.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, March 1, 2003 12:48 PM
the easiest spray booth that ACTUALLY WORKS: a cardboard box with a hole in the back for a shopvac hose and a mesh covering for that hose
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: USA
Posted by weebles on Saturday, March 1, 2003 2:53 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by unnamedplayer

the easiest spray booth that ACTUALLY WORKS: a cardboard box with a hole in the back for a shopvac hose and a mesh covering for that hose


The concern here would be combustion. Depending on what you're shooting, flamable vapors around a shopvac (they spark like hell) could result in an explosion.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, March 6, 2003 6:16 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by davidwaples@attbi.com

QUOTE: Originally posted by unnamedplayer

the easiest spray booth that ACTUALLY WORKS: a cardboard box with a hole in the back for a shopvac hose and a mesh covering for that hose


The concern here would be combustion. Depending on what you're shooting, flamable vapors around a shopvac (they spark like hell) could result in an explosion.



Good info guys....my son & I are beginner airbrushers (brushes just can't get the surface we want...perfectionists Big Smile [:D]).

I wonder, concerning the ShopVac idea....there are bags (just like the household vacuum cleaner) for the ShopVac, and additional filters before anything hits the motor/fan. I wonder if that'd help.

Thanks for the link Naplak....I stumbled across your site in a search, and liked the setup you have....I'd thought of the bathroom fan idea too...simple and efficient (and CHEAP to replace).
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, November 10, 2003 2:38 PM
Short of building a box (cant get the Sturdicraft boxes suggested by naplak), what other suggestions are there?

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Strongsville, Ohio
Posted by gbritnell on Monday, November 10, 2003 4:15 PM
I started out with a high volume bathroom fan (around 70cfm) but after it tried to suck through 2 furnace filters it didn't have much pull so I opted for a Dayton blower (around 350 cfm) and what a difference. I have a plywood box that measures 24 wide by 20 high by 18 deep. The top has a piece of Lexan on it so that the light will shine through or if I need more I can mount anything temporarily on top. I work in the basement so I run flexible 4" aluminum dryer vent tube up between the floor joists to a dryer fitting that I have installed in the plate which vents outside. When I'm done painting I disconect the tubing and store everything away. I put a rag in the dryer vent tube and put a cap on it. This keeps any drafts from filtering through in the winter time. IMHO don't spend the money on a low volume blower unless you just plan on sucking through a furnace filter and then venting right into the room. If you spend the money initially you'll be much happier in the end.
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: The flat lands of the Southeast
Posted by styrene on Wednesday, November 12, 2003 11:56 AM
I'd like to share a few thoughts:
1. Booths should be constructed out of non-combustible materials. Cardboard boxes and thin plywood won't cut it. Sheetmetal, plexiglas, and fire-resistant plywood (1/2" or better) are good materials.
2. Any fans used should be of the non-sparking, brushless variety.
3. The fan chosen really needs to meet the airflow requirements for the booth size.
Let's say your booth is 2' X 2'. The face area of your booth is 4 square feet. The minimum airflow needed at the face to adequately capture organic solvent vapors is about 80-100 fpm (feet per minute). Therefore the fan you need should have a minimum airflow of 80 X 4 = 320 cfm. If you are going to use filters and the duct work is going to be fairly long with lot of turns and twists, then consider bumping up the minimum required cfm by 10-25% to account for the airflow fall-off due to resistance. Remember that once the airflow is out of the booth, the fan still has to push it through the ductwork to the outside. Long runs of ductwork, right angle turns, etc. add additional resistance and help decrease duct transport velocities.
4. Use 4" aluminum flex duct. STAY AWAY from vinyl plastic dryer hose.
5. Airflow should be as linear as possible. Try mounting the exhaust fan in the back of the booth. If mounted in the top, you might consider a baffle between the fan and your work surface to keep turbulence and booth dead spots to a minimum.
6 Remember that solvent vapors are heavier than air. A rear mounted fan with as much horizontal ducting as possible aids in more efficient vapor evacuation.
7. Keep a fire extinguisher close by for those just-in-case moments.
8. Keep windows and doors open. You still need a good supply of make-up air.
9. There's an old saying, "You get what you pay for". This is very true in the spray booth world.
Hope this helps.
Gip Winecoff

1882: "God is dead"--F. Nietzsche

1900: "Nietzsche is dead"--God

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Harrisburg, PA
Posted by Lufbery on Wednesday, November 12, 2003 2:44 PM
Hi all,

This is all great advice, but I'm curious about one thing: has anyone ever had a fire from the wrong type of fan igniting paint vapor?

Regards,

-Drew

-Drew

Build what you like; like what you build.

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, November 12, 2003 5:07 PM
The biggest problem with any paint booth ( homemade or mfg. ) is keeping it safe. Whatever you decide on, Remember to have at least a five pound ABC fire extinguisher close. I use furnace filters to collect paint dust. Also keep filters replaced on a regular basis. The dust is very flamable and ignites very easy. Last would be a quality respirator designed for paint fumes. A respirator is only as good as the filter. Buy extra filters and keep clean filters in the respirator.Smile [:)]
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: The flat lands of the Southeast
Posted by styrene on Thursday, November 13, 2003 6:32 AM
crownover,
Good tips! I would offer a couple comments:
1. A spray booth is considered (at least in safety and health circles) to be an engineering control. With these controls in place, personal protective equipment (PPE) is not required. I would submit that if respirators are needed when operating a spray booth, there is something wrong with the ability of the spray booth to adequately exhaust the organic vapors generated during the painting operation.
2. A respirator's filters are certainly important, but without a good seal between the face and the respirator facepiece, the filters are useless. Masks should be regularly checked for cracks and tears in the facepiece, as well as ensuring that the inhalation and exhalation valves are in place and functioning properly. Regularly cleaning the facepiece in warm soapy water goes a long way toward preserving respirator integrity. Stay away from chemical cleaning of respirators, including the use of isopropyl alcohol. Alcohol dries out the softeners in the newer silicone rubber masks, and may cause premature failure of the respirator.
3. When purchasing a respirator for painting, ensure the respirator is equipped with an organic vapor cartridge (usually a black color), and a paint mist prefilter. These respirators are normally sold in a paint configuration, and can be bought from Lowe's, Home Depot, etc. for about $20.
Hope this helps.
Gip Winecoff

1882: "God is dead"--F. Nietzsche

1900: "Nietzsche is dead"--God

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, November 15, 2003 4:46 AM
Believe me, it can happen!!!

Made my own spray booth from cheap thin ply. Wanted to keep costs to a minimum, so used a cheap extractor fan. Worked well for 2-3 months. Cleaning my airbrush one day,
BANG!!! End result, no eyebrows,burnt hands, and a booth on fire. You've guessed it, no fire ext'.

Now I use fire retardent ply, brushless fan and two filters in front of fan. And yes, I did go
to the expense of a large fire ext, which is within easy reach.

Perhaps this is a bit of "overkill" but once bitten etc.

Be safe guys.
P.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Harrisburg, PA
Posted by Lufbery on Saturday, November 15, 2003 9:37 PM
Wow, Pops!

I'm glad you're okay. For a while now I've been reading about the dangers of using the wrong kind of fan, but this is the first first-hand account I've read of something bad happening.

Quick question, do you think it matters if you're using acrylics vs. enamels?

Anyway, thanks for the warning.

Regards,

-Drew

-Drew

Build what you like; like what you build.

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Hayward, CA
Posted by MikeV on Saturday, November 15, 2003 11:44 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Lufbery

Wow, Pops!


Quick question, do you think it matters if you're using acrylics vs. enamels?



Acrylics will not explode because they use a non-flammable binder.
Enamels on the other hand have a solvent base and are flammable.

Correct me if I'm wrong Gip. Wink [;)]

Mike

Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, November 16, 2003 11:16 AM
I recently started to construct a better booth. I have used the box and blower and a simple window unit before. When I decided to construct a booth in my shed, my hobby shop recommended to check out this site. (http://modelpaint.tripod.com/booth2.htm) Klaus Raddatz gives some excellent info on how to calculate the required airflow, ductwork and types of booths. I was able to use a old cabinet frame and existing ductwork. I purchased a 5600 cfm shaded pole motor from Grainger for $72 Total parts and material was about $175. Hope this helps.
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: The flat lands of the Southeast
Posted by styrene on Monday, November 17, 2003 12:02 PM
Mike,
I'm honestly not sure about the binder statement; I know that binders help stick the pigments to each other and to the substrate, but you still have to get it from point A to point B through some sort of solvent vehicle. In my experience, simply because a manufacturer says their paints are non-flammable (ie,Testor) doesn't mean they won't burn. Flammability and combustibility are based on "flash point"--the lowest temperature at which a material will produce enough vapor that in the presence of some ignition source it will flash (not burn). Flammable materials have flash points less than 73 degrees F, while combustibles are greater than 73. There are also some boiling point considerations, but for this discussion, temps will work just fine. So, out of the bottle (like for brush painting), acrylics are safer than enamels, which are indeed flammable. HOWEVER, once acrylics are thinned with, say, isopropyl alcohol (a flammable solvent) and put into an aerosolized mist through the process of air brushing or rattle cans, acrylics become quite flammable. The big difference between enamels and acrylics now is the vapor concentration in air and it's relative degree of evaporation (volatility): it should take more acrylic vapors to flash than enamel vapors. Unfortunately, we have no way of measuring (at least economically) vapor concentrations in each and every spray booth, so we need to take the same precautions regardless of the materials we use (brushless fans, adequate airflow and ducting, correct construction materials, etc.).

But what if I'm just using water to thin my acrylics prior to spraying? Then the hazard is lessened substantially, and the only concern would be the type, concentration, volatility and flash point of the base solvents. Of course, these most likely would vary somewhat between manufacturers. But now you're in the area of the unknown, so once again, the same precautionary measures (as above) are taken to prevent the unexpected uh-ohs.

One last thing, and I'll shut up. Rattle can spraying is a little different than setting up an airbrush. First, solvent concentrations are considerably higher, since higher volumes of paint are used over the same time. Second, they are already pre-thinned to get the mixture through the nozzle, and third, the addition of propellants increase the product's flammability. Manufacturers (at least the ones I've seen) typically use isobutane and propane as their primary propellants, although I have seen some carbon dioxide used, but only sporadically. Conclusion? Spraying with rattle cans is considerably more hazardous than airbrush painting, even with acrylics, given propellant considerations.

Sorry this was so long, but I hope this helps, Mike. If you have any questions, or if you simply think I'm full of it, shoot me an e-mail.
Gip Winecoff

PS This is all taken from a fire hazard standpoint. Stay tuned next week when we expose Barney to 500 ppm of methyl ethyl death and see if he turns from purple to green! (Health hazards are a little different animal.)
GW

1882: "God is dead"--F. Nietzsche

1900: "Nietzsche is dead"--God

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Harrisburg, PA
Posted by Lufbery on Monday, November 17, 2003 12:22 PM
Great post! Thank you very much.

-Drew

-Drew

Build what you like; like what you build.

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: The flat lands of the Southeast
Posted by styrene on Monday, November 17, 2003 12:44 PM
You're welcome!

GW

1882: "God is dead"--F. Nietzsche

1900: "Nietzsche is dead"--God

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Hayward, CA
Posted by MikeV on Monday, November 17, 2003 12:54 PM
Thanks Gip.

You 'da man! Wink [;)]Big Smile [:D]

Mike

Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon
JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.