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How do you prime?

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  • Member since
    November 2005
How do you prime?
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, October 26, 2003 1:18 PM
Hello guys,

I want to know how you guys lay down your primer coat?

I was thinking that I could just spay all the parts while they are on the sprue tree's. When it comes time to cut them I would do any touch up at that time. Tamiya nerver has any flash so I think that this may save time....

How about you?

dss902
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, October 26, 2003 6:58 PM
I do it the old fashioned way. I remove every piece off the sprue. Then clean it up, removing moulding lines, ejector pin marks and anything else that needs to be removed. Then I prime each piece with lacquer primer in a spray can, either in gray or white. Once the primer is dry then I paint the piece whatever color it's going to be painted.

The primer I use is a 'sandable lacquer primer' made by Plasti-kote. Can be found in many auto parts stores. If you try it make sure it's 'sandable' lacquer primer. It will say it on the label. There is a non-sandable kind which I have never tried. I have built a dozen auto kits using this primer without much problem. Now I'm doing the same on my armor kits I'm now doing.

Glenn
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Hayward, CA
Posted by MikeV on Sunday, October 26, 2003 8:03 PM
Primer? What's that? Big Smile [:D]

I never prime anything I airbrush.

Mike

Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, October 26, 2003 8:55 PM
53ryder,

Ya that is what I do as well.

MikeV, I prime most everything I am going to paint with a brush or shoot. I like how the colours turn out and also find that after I prime I get a good feel on what I need to sand to remove any blemishes before I paint
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, October 26, 2003 9:47 PM
I just started to use primer with my models. Can't remember the brand, but like 53ryder, it's a spraycan sandable laquer primer from an auto parts store. Just did my first application today on a motorcycle and it looks great. It says on the can that it fills small scratches, and I was worried it would hide small details / engraved lines. Not so! Works great and I'm happy with the result.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Hayward, CA
Posted by MikeV on Sunday, October 26, 2003 10:30 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by dss902


and also find that after I prime I get a good feel on what I need to sand to remove any blemishes before I paint


I can see a good point there. It just seems that with a primer coat along with a color on aircraft models the paint can become too thick and hide panel line details, etc. Maybe not.

Mike

Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, October 26, 2003 11:01 PM
I just use cheap-o tyre store auto primer. Works great. I find that the primer goes on in a quick drying thin coat and is almost fool proof.

MikeV try it on your next plane.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, October 27, 2003 12:40 PM
I wouldn't prime until I'm ready to paint. Give a good cleaning after glueing, putty and sanding are done. Then wipe with a tack cloth. Gray automotive primer works great and comes in big cheap cans. Keep the coats light!
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Savannah, GA USA
Posted by Bones-coa on Monday, October 27, 2003 1:17 PM
You guys don't have problems with the laquer primer reacting with the enamel or acrylic top coats? Seems to me that when I used a laquer primer one time it caused my enamel topcoat to wrinkle. Maybe I didn't let it dry long enough? I actually can't remember how long I let it dry.

Dana
Dana F On the bench: Tamiya DO335B-2 with LOTS of Aires stuff (On Hold) Trumpeter A-10 with LOTS and LOTS of aftermarket goodies! (On Hold) Tamiya 240ZG (In work)
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, October 27, 2003 1:22 PM
Dana-Never had problems with Dull-coat or Gloss-coat, but automotive primer can be nasty-let base dry and your first lacquer coats should be light. Lacquer can be tuff on your enamels and lungs!
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Savannah, GA USA
Posted by Bones-coa on Monday, October 27, 2003 1:25 PM
I'm sorry...I said topcoats when I meant your first layers of paint coat. In my case, after priming, I sprayed my enamel paint on top and that wrinkled.
Dana
Dana F On the bench: Tamiya DO335B-2 with LOTS of Aires stuff (On Hold) Trumpeter A-10 with LOTS and LOTS of aftermarket goodies! (On Hold) Tamiya 240ZG (In work)
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, October 27, 2003 2:21 PM
Dana-lacquers usually dry in a flash-lacquer and stryene is not a good mix-it might damage the plastic. But any enamel and laquer mix is risky. When in doubt let it dry, dry, dry! Have a dry martini while you wait!
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Harrisburg, PA
Posted by Lufbery on Monday, October 27, 2003 4:03 PM
Hi all,

I asked about priming a while back and somebody suggesting using a flat enamel as the base (or primer) coat. I decided that I didn't want to deal with thinning enamels and cleaning them out of my airbrush, so I got a Testors spray can of light gray enamel paint. It made a great primer! It sands easily, and doesn't craze the Model Master acrylics I put on top of it. I did, however, let the primer coat dry for nearly a week before starting to paint with the acrylics.

Regarding the original question of when to prime. I sprayed the primer coat after I had the fuselage (with the finished cockpit inside) and wings of my F-4J together. I had filled and sanded and filled some more. Then I primed. Then I sanded some more because the primer coat showed a few rough spots.

I hope that helps.

Regards,

-Drew

-Drew

Build what you like; like what you build.

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, October 27, 2003 6:39 PM
I prime 'everything' because until last March I was building cars and using lacquer paints on my bodies. Lacquer paint will attack unprotected styrene, so I started priming all my car kit parts with lacquer primer to protect the plastic. Now am trying armor, but still prime all parts. Habit I guess!

Someone has suggested that priming will 'hide' details. Well that's true if you put too much primer on! I try to get a even coat on, but just enough to cover the paint. I have flooded an area sometimes and have had to strip the primer off then start over.

The primer should be put on first thing. Let dry for a day, just to be safe. Then place your paint coats over the primer. Enamels, acrylics or lacquer should then go on without any problem. Hope this helps!


Glenn
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, October 27, 2003 6:46 PM
Yes...lacquer products can be rough on your lungs. If you are fortunate enough like myself I have a small model room with a hard-wired exhaust fan built into the wall. So when I prime parts on, I do it by the exhaust fan with the fan on! I even hold the part up towards the fan so anything that misses the part will sucked out thru the fan exhaust.
If you don't have a fan then spray in a well ventilated room, or even go outside and spray your primer. Aim the spray away from anything important, like the family car...or the family!

Glenn
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, November 3, 2003 12:07 AM
I have been using Astro rocket primer. It is lacquer primer designed to paint the cardboard tubes on model rockets. I switched to this because after trying several methods, I needed a primer that has build to it. It is can be air brushed, and is completely dry overnight. I don't like using Duplicolor rattle cans on 1/48th scale aircraft because the nozzle on the ratle can lets too much material out. I carry out the procedure this way: bodywork, guide coat, block sand, check for high/low spots, prime panel again, guide coat, block sand. Go to other areas and repaeat procedure. "Finish Prime," give light scuff when dry, double check everything, then paint. This is time consuming but ensures a high quality finish. Remember - any paint job is only as good as the surface that it covers. BT
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: United Kingdom
Posted by U-96 on Monday, November 3, 2003 6:44 AM
I've started using Holts Dupli-colour primer. It's an acrylic formula that doesn't eat plastic (yet!), and is available in light grey, white, and red oxide. Humbrol enamels apply very well on it by brush and airbrush.

With the exception of small parts, I'd prime when the main parts are assembled (masking stuff as required), it means the primer can help cover seams and other assembly mishaps Black Eye [B)]
On the bench: 1/35 Dragon Sturmpanzer Late Recent: Academy 1/48 Bf-109D (Nov 06) Academy 1/72 A-37 (Oct 06) Revell 1/72 Merkava III (Aug 06) Italeri 1/35 T-26 (Aug 06)
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Waukesha, WI
Posted by David Voss on Monday, November 10, 2003 1:26 AM
Since most of my painting is for figures (Warhammer Fantasy) I use the Citadel Undercoat spray can stuff. It works great for figures.

Today since it was cold outside and I was planning on only doing a handful of figures I cracked open a bottle of Citadel's Smelly Primer and painted it on by hand. Another reason I did this was because I wanted my son to try his hand at painting small stuff with the primer first. Figured it'd be difficult to mess up the basecoat. Smile [:)]

After the kids went to bed, I primed some more using a brush. Later I compared my work with some stuff I had sprayed a long time ago. The spray can stuff goes on so much better. I couldn't believe I even did so many by hand, but I had so many more figures to prime. So here I was at midnight, sticking horses to cardboard and spraying them outside. Smile [:)]
David Voss Senior Web Developer Kalmbach Publishing Co. Join me on the FSM Map
  • Member since
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, November 11, 2003 11:53 AM
Priming in gray is the best option. It shows all the faults. Priming is a must when going for natural metal finish, but not so for camo. The prime needs to be polished with fine grade 2000+.
  • Member since
    May 2003
Posted by karlwb on Wednesday, November 12, 2003 4:03 PM
I use #1 Humbrol grey primer - works for me.
  • Member since
    February 2003
Posted by mass tactical on Friday, November 14, 2003 10:04 AM
Krylon autobody sandable primer works well applied in light dusty coats. Let dry overnight to be sure its cured.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, November 14, 2003 10:50 AM
I use an auto primer by Duplicolor in black. Preshades and covers in one trip. It is Duplcolor sandible primer.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, November 14, 2003 2:58 PM
goldenretriver, do you know if Krylon makes a primer in their "general purpose" spray line that works for our needs? Or is it only the auto body sandable primer that they make that works? I presume the latter needs to be purchased only at auto parts stores? Not something that might be availalbe at, say, Home Depot? Thanks for your advice.
  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by plheure on Saturday, November 15, 2003 7:36 AM
I use Model Master enamel gray primer exclusively. It shows all flaws, especially along seam lines. But I agree with you guys..... a finish is only as good as your prepping. Before applying my primer, I give the model a light wipe with isopropyl alcohol 90%. Somehow, by using that and putting about five drops of Dullcoat in with the primer, the primer has more "bite" on the plastic. I've had pretty good luck with this method, but I might decide to go with auto primer. Might be more economical in the long run.

Best regards,

Pete L.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, November 15, 2003 8:37 AM
There are some pretty interesting replies here! I sometimes use primer, but only really started doing so when white metal and etched parts became the norm. (Auto primer) I still build without priming in some cases. Completely agree on all comments regarding prep work. Primer in itself is only a key allowing the medium to take a hold on the model, regardless of medium. If no metal present a well prepared polystyrene surface that has been lightly sanded and degreased is as well primed as any? I agree that priming in gray does help show up flaws. Primer is also pretty useful when the colour scheme is pretty well removed from the colour of the injected polystyrene on the sprues, especially when trying to cover black poly with very light colours?
  • Member since
    August 2003
Posted by Bradley M3 on Saturday, November 15, 2003 12:10 PM
I use Testors Acrylic Gray Primer 4680 and it works great for me.. If you brush or spray it do so with light coats and follow up with light coats of air brush with color. It won't cover the detail and it leaves a great finish to work on (spray color to). Hope this helps someone! J.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, November 19, 2003 9:36 AM
I've found that most automotive primers go on too thick. I've been using Floquil primers for about 30 years now and wouldn't use any other brand. I use Floquil's Zinc Chromate primer sprayed through my airbrush. It is a red-brown color and goes on so thin that no detail is obscured. It dries in less than 30 minutes and can then be oversprayed with just about any other brand of model paint. It will also handle lacquer coats but should be left to dry for at least 24 hours before applying the lacquer. By the way, for you figure painters, Floquil Reefer White sprayed over the Zinc Chromate makes a perfect base coat. It is almost impossible to dissolve Floquil paints after they are dry, thus preventing "paint-through" to the metal figure underneath. Any good hobby shop with a railroad department should be able to fix you up with Floquil paints.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Savannah, GA USA
Posted by Bones-coa on Wednesday, November 19, 2003 11:16 AM
I've found auto primers are too thick as well and have been trying to find an alternative. I'd like it to be something out of a can for ease, but I think I'm dreaming.

Dana
Dana F On the bench: Tamiya DO335B-2 with LOTS of Aires stuff (On Hold) Trumpeter A-10 with LOTS and LOTS of aftermarket goodies! (On Hold) Tamiya 240ZG (In work)
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Foothills of Colorado
Posted by Hoser on Wednesday, November 19, 2003 2:14 PM
I have to go with the auto primer group. I had been using Plasti-Kote Spot Filler & Primer but can't seem to find it anymore so I switched to Rust-Oleum wet-sandable auto primer. They are both laquer based but I never had any problems. When I'm ready to paint, I give the parts a good scrub with Dawn dishwashing liquid and an old tooth brush.
Re: paint types. I found out long ago that you can spray enamel over laquer but never laquer over enamel - unless you want a cracked finish.
"Trust no one; even those people you know and trust." - Jack S. Margolis
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Hayward, CA
Posted by MikeV on Wednesday, November 19, 2003 3:01 PM
QUOTE: I found out long ago that you can spray enamel over laquer but never laquer over enamel - unless you [i]want a cracked finish.


Actually you can spray lacquer over enamel if you do it correctly.
You have to spray a couple of dust coats over the enamel first to protect it, then you can spray a heavier coat of lacquer over it after those coats dry.

Mike

Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon
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