Cheap-a$$ compressors?

You CAN equip an inexpensive compressor with all the things mentioned. Ive seen done it at work. We used a large piece of 4" SS pipe for a tank and added a regulator and pressure switch - all this added to a simple piston compressor. I also work at an industrial facility where we have all sorts of "stuff" to work with.

But for about 50$ you can buy a 3 gal compressor at most stores. Discounters like Harbor Freight and others on line are another source. Add a regulator and moisture trap and there you go. I think this is one of those times where a few more dollars spent up front will serve you, the beginner, best.

You can get something like this for $50.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93657

There's no air tank, but very little pulsating from these small compressors.

I have a similar diaphragm compressor to the one shown at Harbor Freight. I've heard that you should make your airline as long as is practical with this type, and pulsations will have less of an effect. The long airline then acts like a tank or buffer. So I've always gone with that. But there is a downside: the longer line wants to allow condensation to build in the line as the compressed air cools. This is one good reason for a tank/trap setup.

Without a tank, back pressure is also an issue. Badger recommends adding a tiny shunt hole in the compressor head hose fitting on tankless set-ups, to prevent back pressure build-up. I added a foot switch on my compressor, as well. That way, when I wont be spraying for a length of time, I can switch off the motor.

If you're handy, you can add a small buffer tank like I mentioned with the unit at at work. I plan to duplicate that with 4" PVC pipe on my compressor. Or maybe you can use one of those reserve tanks used for inflating spare tires. Even a used propane cylinder could work, I suppose - almost anything that can withstand the pressure should function. With one of those small pumps used for emergency tire inflating you just may be in business.

When it comes to tools, the words "cheapass" and "quality" do not normally go together. Oh, you can luck out and get used tools that are right for the job... I did and got my compressor for $5. So, they're worth looking around for. But, no matter how you cut it, you're probably going to be in for at least $50.

sizzlak wrote:

You can get something like this for $50. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93657 There's no air tank, but very little pulsating from these small compressors.

i actually just bought this one yesteday. i have to return it though becuase it did not come with the 10ft hose like it was supposed to. i turned it on to check it out and it was very quite. no pulsing. the reg helps to even that out.

Heyyyyyy guys! My compressor is a AU$99 2hp one that has a good size tank, and a regulator. The fitting is a standard 1/4 fitting that most braided hoses hook right up to. Yes, a lil noisy but, its only for a short time. $99 vs $250 with same results, you do the math.

Cheers, simpilot34

enemeink wrote:

sizzlak wrote: You can get something like this for $50. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93657 There's no air tank, but very little pulsating from these small compressors. i actually just bought this one yesteday. i have to return it though becuase it did not come with the 10ft hose like it was supposed to. i turned it on to check it out and it was very quite. no pulsing. the reg helps to even that out.

The compressor (SKU:, 93657) that you have looks almost identical in appearance and spec to the one (SKU:, 95630) in this airbrush kit:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95630

except one important rating. The later is rated 1/5 horsepower vs. 1/8 horsepower of the compressor along. I don't need another airbrush, but will be will to pay the extra $20 to get the steadiness of a more powerful compressor.

Anyone knows if they are really different? Does the 1/5 HP compressor deliver more air than the 1/8 HP one at 20 psi? It should, but does it?

sizzlak wrote:

You have to check the CFM not the HP.

If the Habor Freight provides the tech info, I will not be asking here.

I managed to download the manuals for both compressors. The 1/8 HP model 93657 is rated 0.5 CFM @ 20 PSI. It is not bad for a $59, 1/8 HP compressor. The 1/5 HP model 95630 is rated identically, 0.5 CFM @ 20 PSI. I just wonder where all the extra horsepower went. For 1/5 HP mini compressors, I typically saw rating of 0.8 CFM @ 45 psi or higher. For example, the model TC-20 at Airbrushdepot, http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdepot/compress.aspx

The air delivery rating at Chinese manufacturer's site are consistent with the above for 1/8 vs. 1/5 HP.

Is the Habor Freight 1/5 HP model 95630 a good buy? And the distributor staff just too lazy and copied their old 1/8 HP compressor manual without correction. Or the HF advertising staff mistakenly labelled an 1/8 HP compressor as "1/5 HP"?

sizzlak wrote:

You have to check the CFM not the HP.

CFM ratings don't mean a whole lot for airbrushes as they use very little air compared to other air tools. 

MikeV wrote:

CFM ratings don't mean a whole lot for airbrushes as they use very little air compared to other air tools.

Mike, it depends. If I already used a compressor like this, you are right.

But my compressor LOOKS MORE LIKE this.

It worked perfectly fine for several years. It is even better with the new Iwata gravity feed AB. But is very limiting when I try to use the AB on small household projects that is larger than a 1:32 scale model. 

I am trying to find out if an compressor upgrade is possible for less than $100. Then, the CFM@PSI is the most important factor. To me, a 0.8 CFM at 60 psi IS a meaningful upgrade over the 0.5 CFM at 20 psi. I want to stick with the quiet type hobby compressor and am not interested in the workshop type.

I just ordered the Paasche DA400 compressor, I did not order with the regulator/filter because I have an extra already.

It is Paasche's current top of the line model.

It is a twin piston 1/6 HP piston compressor with built-in pressure switch automatically shuts off and thermal overload protected. All moving parts use sealed oil-less bearings. It does not have a tank.

Most importan, it is in my budget range at under $130. Not under $100, but cheaper than most single piston compressor with tank. I do not see any review at this forum yet. I will find out if I made the right decision soon.

Bioya wrote:

You buy cheap, you buy twice. Ask me how I know.

If the top of the line Paasche compressor is "cheap", I can't afford anything else. Please, share your experience, bad or good, to help other forum members. I will come back to let other know how well the DA400 work for me.

The major US brands either closed or moved their compressor manufacturing off-shore. But you will not find out who makes it for them. Harbor Fleight may source their compressor from the same factory as other airbrush specialty shops.

Most airbrush dealers carry their house brand Iwata knock-off. It is interesting that Bearair calls the knock-off line "The Disposible" Bearair. They advised:

"BearAir travels the world in search of great values in Airbrush Products. We believe that we have finally found a Family of Airbrushes that meets the needs of the masses. Each airbrush will provide you with dual action control of your paint flow at prices at or below single action airbrush prices. No longer will you need to baby your airbrush. No more polishing needles or spending tedious amounts of time fixing a bent needle. The Disposables are designed to be used and once the performance declines it is disposed and a new one purchased.....at prices lower than other brands charge for just the nozzle! The Disposables remove the expense and the fear of purchasing high priced airbrushes and allow you to complete one time jobs profitably. And every Disposables is backed by the BearAir 45 Day Satisfaction Guarantee.........So try a Disposables today and enter into the realm of dual action airbrushing."

There may be some merit in this concept for the non-professional or hobbyist.

keilau wrote:

MikeV wrote: CFM ratings don't mean a whole lot for airbrushes as they use very little air compared to other air tools.  Mike, it depends. If I already used a compressor like this, you are right. But my compressor LOOKS MORE LIKE this. It worked perfectly fine for several years. It is even better with the new Iwata gravity feed AB. But is very limiting when I try to use the AB on small household projects that is larger than a 1:32 scale model.  I am trying to find out if an compressor upgrade is possible for less than $100. Then, the CFM@PSI is the most important factor. To me, a 0.8 CFM at 60 psi IS a meaningful upgrade over the 0.5 CFM at 20 psi. I want to stick with the quiet type hobby compressor and am not interested in the workshop type.

That is why I mentioned psi as that is the deciding factor and I was talking about airbrushing alone.

An airbrush does not use a lot of air like impact guns, spray guns and air tools.

Any compressor that puts out 30 psi or more will work just fine for airbrushing but if you want to fill car tires, etc then get a 1 hp or larger compressor from Sears or something similar.

You said, "But is very limiting when I try to use the AB on small household projects that is larger than a 1:32 scale model. " 

What are you trying to do then? What "small household projects" are you referring to?

You are not going to find a quality, quiet compressor for $100 that will fill the bill you are asking for. Either go with an industrial compressor and put it out back somewhere and run a long air hose from it so you don't have to hear it, or buy a quality silent compressor from Badger, Silentaire, Iwata, Jun-Air or another quality manufacturer.

MikeV wrote:

buy a quality silent compressor from Badger, Silentaire, Iwata, Jun-Air or another quality manufacturer.

I should receive the Paasche DA400 before the end of this week. Do you know of any specific quality problem with the Paasche compressors that make you left them out of the list?

http://www.paascheairbrush.com/compressors_da400.html

The spec is similar to these compressors, but the DA400 has a lower price.

http://www.silentaire.com/silentaire/images/pdfs/Scorpion%20II%20brochure.pdf

http://www.dickblick.com/zz251/27a/

http://www.bearair.com/prodinfo.asp?number=120117

keilau wrote:

MikeV wrote: buy a quality silent compressor from Badger, Silentaire, Iwata, Jun-Air or another quality manufacturer. I should receive the Paasche DA400 before the end of this week. Do you know of any specific quality problem with the Paasche compressors that make you left them out of the list? http://www.paascheairbrush.com/compressors_da400.html The spec is similar to these compressors, but the DA400 has a lower price. http://www.silentaire.com/silentaire/images/pdfs/Scorpion%20II%20brochure.pdf http://www.dickblick.com/zz251/27a/ http://www.bearair.com/prodinfo.asp?number=120117

That Paasche is probably just fine as I believe the same manufacturer makes all of the ones you listed and that is very common. I think Sparmax makes all those but I may be wrong. 

My Badger Million Air, the Silentaire 20A, Iwata Powerjet and others are all made by the same company also I believe. I think it is Vaninni in Italy if I am not mistaken.  

You never answered my question as to what else you need it for in your other post.

MikeV wrote:

You never answered my question as to what else you need it for in your other post.

Mike,

Thank you for the insight. My modeling tasks are still the main purpose of the compressor. When I brought up the subject of wanting a better compressor at the dinner table, my wife asked if I can do some decorative status/wall hangings for her and my daughter wants to know if she can do a T-shirt. My honest answer were both yes if I get the new compressor and no with the existing one.

I wish I can afford the Badger Million Air, the Silentaire 20A, or the Iwata Powerjet. But they are too much an overkill for weekend user like me.

KL 

keilau wrote:

MikeV wrote: You never answered my question as to what else you need it for in your other post. Mike, Thank you for the insight. My modeling tasks are still the main purpose of the compressor. When I brought up the subject of wanting a better compressor at the dinner table, my wife asked if I can do some decorative status/wall hangings for her and my daughter wants to know if she can do a T-shirt. My honest answer were both yes if I get the new compressor and no with the existing one. I wish I can afford the Badger Million Air, the Silentaire 20A, or the Iwata Powerjet. But they are too much an overkill for weekend user like me. KL

Just a heads up to you that T-shirt airbrushing requires higher pressures and most T-shirt artists spray between 50-80 psi! So if your daughter wants to airbrush a T-shirt with the compressor you ordered she better not run it long at it's highest output or it will overheat and possibly burn up. Heat is the killer of compressors and none are designed to work with more than a 50% workload which means it is on for 50% of the time and off the other 50%.

She could spray at lower pressures and be able to paint but acrylics made for T-shirts need higher pressure to blow the paint into the fabric to make it last and not fade away quickly.

They also need to be heat set but that is another discussion.

That requires an air tank unless you want to paint for 5 minutes and then shut it off for 5 minutes.

I would not use my Badger Million Air for T-shirt airbrushing as it was not designed for that.

I have a Jun-Air compressor connected to a 5 gallon air tank for that and before I put that setup together I used a Craftsman 1-1/2 hp with a 12 gallon tank.  

Mike,

I doubt that anyone in my home will AB a T-shirt anytime soon. I am not planning for that. However, I believe they will all want to borrow my AB for the Christmas ornament before long.

I have use an Airbrush City MA-1000 compressor for a few years with no complaint. The MA-1000 looks like the Silentaire Scorpion I clone with the same manual and same model number in the manual. I can use MM and Tamiya acrylic directly OOB with the MA-1000. It runs smmothly in all of my use, but the pressure reading did drop in full stroke trigger, even at a low 20 psi.

I ordered Sunday night and received the Paasche DA400 today. It is everything I expected. The pressure holds steady from 10 to 50 psi with the Iwata Eclipse at full trigger. At above 50 psi setting, the running pressure drops to 50 psi, which is the spec pressure range. The DA400 is not noisy, but louder than the MA-1000. Since it does not have an air tank, the compressor is running constantly during airbrushing even at 20 psi setting. The motor stops when the AB is stopped.

KL,

Glad you like the new compressor.

keilau wrote:

It worked perfectly fine for several years. It is even better with the new Iwata gravity feed AB. But is very limiting when I try to use the AB on small household projects that is larger than a 1:32 scale model.  I am trying to find out if an compressor upgrade is possible for less than $100. Then, the CFM@PSI is the most important factor. To me, a 0.8 CFM at 60 psi IS a meaningful upgrade over the 0.5 CFM at 20 psi. I want to stick with the quiet type hobby compressor and am not interested in the workshop type.

I said: "CFM ratings don't mean a whole lot for airbrushes as they use very little air compared to other air tools. "

To which you replied : "But is very limiting when I try to use the AB on small household projects that is larger than a 1:32 scale model. " 

Isn't that what I said?

The cheapest compressor I've found is the one down at the gas station... It's free and the noise stays there... I over-inflate an old lawnmower rear tire and put my trap/reg set-up on the tire's valve stem.  Had to hit a plumbing shop to find a couple of adapter fittings to make it all work, but 15 bucks and a roll of teflon tape later, I was in business...  If you GOTTA have steel, an air tank works fine, and the gas station compressor is still free and open 24/7...

You may also want to consider using a Co2 bottle. a 10-20lb bottle will last a very long time, there is NO NEED for a moisture trap (there is NO water in Co2) and all you need is a cheap regulator for the correct air pressure, and one for the tank pressure.......no noise from a compressor either !!

Happy Modeling !!

I have the 95630 setup.  I have reviews it at my website and posted comments and ideas.
Central Pneumatic Professional Air Compressor and Air Brush Model 95630 http://www.happinessismandatory.com/misc/Tools/Compressor.htm

 I am new to airbrushing but I do like it quite a bit.  But if you already have an airbursh the compressor 93657 has a better regualtor that would not need the additional setup.  Also the one pictured on line does not have the better regualtor pictured.  The one I was looked at in the store was better.

Thanks,
Jon

Hans von Hammer wrote:

The cheapest compressor I've found is the one down at the gas station... It's free and the noise stays there... I over-inflate an old lawnmower rear tire and put my trap/reg set-up on the tire's valve stem.  Had to hit a plumbing shop to find a couple of adapter fittings to make it all work, but 15 bucks and a roll of teflon tape later, I was in business...  If you GOTTA have steel, an air tank works fine, and the gas station compressor is still free and open 24/7...

I am lazy. It is no comparison flipping a switch than driving down to the gas station. The closest gas station wants 75 cents a pop to use the compressor. By the time I find a free compressor, I would have spent more than the 75 cents on gasoline.

Just curious, how many refills of your lawnmow tire you will need before finishing a 1/32 WW2 aircraft model, or whatever your favorite modeling subject?