dullcote choice

Hi Eric,

I think I'll try your combination to use for my dull finishes. Is the mixture water-soluble? Would you dispose of it in the drain? Also, how long can you store it?

Thanks in advance,

Jeff

53ryder wrote:

I use Testor's Dullcote Laqcuer #1160 and thin it down with lacquer thinner. Glenn

And i love it gives a real nice dull flat look.

Hi Shellback and SmokingGuns,

I've seen Testors' Dullcote in stores, but they it looked a bit yellowed and separated. Is that normal? Would mineral spirits work as thinner for Testor's Dullcote?

Thanks again,

Jeff

skrooby wrote:

Hi Shellback and SmokingGuns, I've seen Testors' Dullcote in stores, but they it looked a bit yellowed and separated. Is that normal? Would mineral spirits work as thinner for Testor's Dullcote? Thanks again, Jeff

Hi skrooby ! Looks like your question got answered . Usually the "flat " particles will settle to the bottom , so its a good idea to keep it stired  up every once in a while between spraying coats of it . I use Model Master thinner myself . Just my choice .

eizzle wrote:

I am going to hijack the thread for just a second (read fast) Is polly scale flat coat mixed with a clear coat (future?) to make a flat coat, or can it be sprayed straight out of the bottle? I bought a couple bottles, but I noticed it looked much like the Tamiya Flat base, so I figured I would ask before I screwed up a perfectly good model!

Hi Colin,

I have airbrushed Pollyscale flat coat both straight from the bottle and by adding about 10% distilled water (which is recommended on the bottle), and both ways have worked fine. 

Mark

Hi Colin,

 I apologize for not answering this question sooner but the last few days have been hectic and, to be honest, I forgot all about this topic.

 In answer to your question, either way I airbrush it (straight from the bottle or by adding 10% distilled water), the result is very flat.  If this is the look you want, then Pollyscale is your flat of choice.

HTH,

Mark

TabascoJunkie, I always use Testors Dullcote laquer 1160- ratios are 3 parts 1160, to 1 part thinner.

 Bill

Ok ok I can't take it anymore. You guys finally broke me! 

Now remember - I only work on car models and strive for a deep lustrous finish.

I have to ask... Why spray a dullcote?

Don't you guys use flat paints to begin with? 

I think I might know the answer, but I would like to know for sure.

Is it in part so you can seal in the decals, and smooth out the surface from the camouflage taping effects?

Sorry for side tracking the post.

Jim,

We spray flat colors then when dry we spray on Future for a gloss coat for the decals to adhere to well. Decals over flat coats silver badly.

When the decals have cured we spray another gloss coat over them to seal them and when dry we apply our washes, panel line highlighting, etc.

Then when it is thouroughly dry we spray flat coat over it to make it dull again.

Thank you Mike. 

Gee, a pretty big process for those darn old decals.

I wonder why with all the knowledge and technology we have these days, they haven't come up with something. Better decal adhesive and/or paper that would work with flat paint? Or an additive for the flat paint that would prevent the decals from silvering. I mean we have the decal softening and leveling agents.

What the heck!

jhande wrote:

Thank you Mike.  Gee, a pretty big process for those darn old decals. I wonder why with all the knowledge and technology we have these days, they haven't come up with something. Better decal adhesive and/or paper that would work with flat paint?

They have, dry transfers.

Or an additive for the flat paint that would prevent the decals from silvering. I mean we have the decal softening and leveling agents. What the heck!

The nature of flat paint, essentially a rough surface, is what creates silvering. Counless tiny air pockets are trapped under the carrier film and refract light differently than the carrier.