Man!!! another question.

Ive used superglue and two-part auto putty for gaps on resin surfaces.

Superglue you really have to watch with resin because if you let it dry too hard, you'll be sanding more resin than CA. I usually put the stuff on in very small amounts and wipe off or blot with a finger real quick and then begin sanding almost immediately. I'll build up the CA bit by bit in this way, eventually filling the gap. And I usually only use superglue on relatively small voids...

The two-part putty... I don't have too much experience with this stuff on resin and so don't have any tips for you, but I do know that it works. Well, the stuff I have works. There may be some types which may not take to the resin, I dunno.

A guy who used to be in our club used epoxy to fill everything. I never really fancied the idea because, to me, it seemed to create more problems than it solved. But he loved it and got good results, so that may be another avenue for you to explore, Jeff...


Fade to Black...

Fillers, like a lot of things in our hobby, depend a lot on personal preference. In my case, I don't really care to use CA or two-part body putty although I do use them on occassion (both are on my hobby work bench). I've had a couple of occasions where I have applied CA and then had to leave it in place for up to three days before I could work it down and I ended up with more problems than if I had used something else. And two part body putty tends to have a very rough texture.
Most epoxy tends to set very well but have a rubbery texture which is hard to sand. Having said that, I have recently started experimenting with Milliput. It's a two part epoxy which dries hard, seems to work well, and you can use a finger wetted with water to shape it easily. Which reduces sanding.
For mosty of my body putty I use what is referred to in the auto industry as "spot and glaze" putty. It's a single party putty that can be found in acrylic or laquer base (I prefer the laquer base product, it grabs the surface better). It sands well and has a very fine texture. You can get it in formulas which will allow you to start sanding well within 5 minutes after application, although I use a formula that gives me a little longer working time (about a 1/2 hr). The only thing to remember is to apply it in thin coats because heavy coats tend to shrink badly. A tube of Dupont filler costs me about 15 bucks but with care I can make it last 8 to 10 years. I've used Squadron filler wich works very well but keep coming back to the Dupont because of the cost. You might experiment with several of the items reccommend in this thread and find the one which works best for you.

I would second the comments on CA as a filler. I too have found problems of the CA being much stronger than the part and have damaged the part (too much sanding) before I get the CA filler sanded correct. It also lacks a texture that matches the plastic/resin parts and sanding just doesn't work as well as I would like it. I have used Milliput (Epoxy Putty) which I find to be a great filler. Put part A & B together and use it like clay. Easy to use, sculpt, and drys without much shrinkage. I haven't used the Dupont filler, but a brand (I can't remember name), basically auto putty (Bondo). I am amazed at how hard it sets and how easy it is to sand. The putty stays surprisingly smooth and takes to sanding very well. I usually wet sand the putty, but I do start with a Dremel sanding disc if I've over-built the filler.

I use CA on small voids, and allow it to build bit by bit.
On larger sections, depending on time restraints, Tamiya putty, or if the void requires shaping, ie. wing root, then I use a Selleys product called Plasti Bond.

I discovered this stuff through work, building custom car audio systems, and found it just as useful in my hobby room as the workshop.

It's plastic based, and is a 2 part mix, like auto body filler, but it has NO shrinkage, sands just like plastic, and after the main sanding is done, a fine sanding will make it smooth as glass.

It's also heavy, so applying a bit in the nose of an a/c negates the need for lead weights.

Thanks all