Applying Future Floor Polish

the Baron

FlyItLikeYouStoleIt

Thank you so much, plasticjunkie, for posting this instruction for the use of Future with decals. You are the only one, other than me, that uses it this way.

Nope, not the only one, I've done this, too.  I've used a pool of it, when I had set of bad or questionable decals (IPM's decals in their copy of the Tamiya P-51B come to mind).  I'll lay some Future down on the area and slide the decal around just a little bit, before positioning it in the final spot.

I've also used Future to repair decals that lifted or cracked long after the build was completed (EagleCal's "Little Chief" squadron codes did this, don't know why).  I use a fine brush to apply it to the spot and secure the pieces of decal that lift or flake off, and then a little more to seal it.

OH! OH! OH! OH!  Me Too; stuffs great  

You are welcome Bill. I also mix Future and some flow improver with craft acrylics and they spray beautifully thru the air brush, producing a velvet smooth semi gloss coat.  

FlyItLikeYouStoleIt

Thank you so much, plasticjunkie, for posting this instruction for the use of Future with decals. You are the only one, other than me, that uses it this way.

Nope, not the only one, I've done this, too.  I've used a pool of it, when I had set of bad or questionable decals (IPM's decals in their copy of the Tamiya P-51B come to mind).  I'll lay some Future down on the area and slide the decal around just a little bit, before positioning it in the final spot.

I've also used Future to repair decals that lifted or cracked long after the build was completed (EagleCal's "Little Chief" squadron codes did this, don't know why).  I use a fine brush to apply it to the spot and secure the pieces of decal that lift or flake off, and then a little more to seal it.

Thank you so much, plasticjunkie, for posting this instruction for the use of Future with decals. You are the only one, other than me, that uses it this way. Future for me is both a surface prep for decals (lay it down and allow it to dry to the touch) and also a decal set (water soak decals first, position them, then apply more future BEFORE it sets. They come out beautiful every time with no silvering and they're set like concrete.

You can also use Future to apply stubborn thick decals on smooth surfaces. Brush on Future and immediately apply the decal over the wet stuff followed by another Future brush coat on top of the decal. Let it dry for a couple of days then lightly sand with fine grit paper which will eliminate the thickness then dull coat it for an even finish.  I had very thick decals on my 1/25 Academy Panther and this method makes them look like they were painted on. It will eliminate the silvering of the carrier film and make the decal stick. Another use is to attach clear parts like a clear cement for canopies, windows, lenses, etc.

Reasoned

I saw the thread title and thought I'd learn about how to polish my floor.

Yep you can, So just follow along:

1. put Future on your model.
2. while still wet rub model on the floor.
3. if the future should dry before you're done, reapply to model.
4. after the floor is done to your satisfaction, and before it drys completely pick up all the small parts that broke off your model.
5. take the parts back to your bench. 
6. remove the Future. 
7. Re-Glue the parts to your model.
8.  reapply Future to your model.
9. sit back and look at your work.
10. You now have a shiny model AND a shiny floor!So Bright!

   Time for a cold one, you have earned it  .

Modeling isn't for the unaware..........usually  

I saw the thread title and thought I'd learn about how to polish my floor.

Have a look at Matt Swan's website (Swanny's Models) and his article on Future, its origins and what it's called in various countries:

www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

This should help you out down in Oz!

once again thanks to all for your help, just got to find out  what future is called in australia

woodspiderF-18

Another easy way to do canopies is just dip them in a Dixie cup of future.. rest on a napkin or paper towel and cover with another cup..no dust...It will look like glass when dry..

greentracker98

Sounds like a plan, one more question though. Does it have to be Future brand or will most any floor polish work?

Thanks

I didn't see a reply in the thread, after greentracker98 posted his question, so I thought I'd take a stab at it.

I'll say yes and no.  That is, it's not the brand, but it's the composition of the liquid.  Future is a clear acrylic liquid, so, if you know of another brand of clear acrylic liquid, then yes, it should work, all other things being equal.  But there are other floor polishes/waxes that are based on other compounds, and they wouldn't work in this application.

I've got plenty of that stuff. I'll be trying that tomorrow morning. Just thought I'd try something new.

i personally wouldnt want to mask a canopy with anything other than tamyia tape.... the scotch works for me too but mainly for masking paintjobs

Now that that question is answered I have this one. Ive been building for a while now and just made my first attempt at future on a canopy and started masking with the frosted scotch tape like I was instructed from a reputable source from here that is no longer here. Everything went well with the laying down of the tape and the cutting along the frame lines with a NEW # 11 Xacto blade. When attempting to peel the cut portion away it started chipping and coming off in pieces rather than one piece. Should I use NEW  tape as well:????

Another easy way to do canopies is just dip them in a Dixie cup of future.. rest on a napkin or paper towel and cover with another cup..no dust...It will look like glass when dry..

Sounds like a plan, one more question though. Does it have to be Future brand or will most any floor polish work?

Thanks

Baron

I leave the clear parts on the trees to act as handles. The Future also lets you get a cleaner sharper cut on the clear plastic.

plastickjunkie

... Also brush Future to the inside and outside of the canopies. It will make the clear plastic look like real glass.

I do both--airbrushing and hand-brushing.  If I get any drips or pooling--which occurs if I put too much Future on one spot at one time--I use Windex on a cotton swab to remove the excess.

I airbrush it at around 20-25 psi.  I tried lower pressure and got too big of a droplet.

Cleanup was easy, I shot a little Windex through the brush, followed by water.

For some reason, if i spray it then I get a pebbly finish which will go away after spraying over with clear flat. I've tried different air preassures and distances and still get the pebble finish. I hand brush several light coats for a glass smooth finish that will kill any decal silvering. I'm extra cautious so wait at least 2 days before applying decals and then brush again to seal the decals then wait a couple of days to spray clear flat over the entire model. You have to let the Future cure otherwise it will react to the decal solution by forming a white haze. Also brush Future to the inside and outside of the canopies. It will make the clear plastic look like real glass.

OVL, thanks so much for the question!  I have a bottle on the way now and I was going to ask the same thing.  And thank you to you all for the responses.  They are very useful.  I can't wait to try this out.

Eagle90

My . Spray straight from the bottle. When finished, clean AB with Windex then a little water to flush out the AB. If using a brush, same procedure. Clean brush with Windex then water. Been working like a charm for years.

Jim

This whole post should be included in the magazine

Thanks all for yours tips. Those are very usefull.

best regards,

OVL

Straight Future. I back away from the model about 6 - 8 inches with my airbrush and spray a few fairly thorough, thin coats. Let it dry at least 24 hours before applying decals, especially if using a decal solution such as solvaset. Once applied, allow another 24 hours for the decals to set, then put a final coat of Future on to 'seal' the decals.

Will work both ways perfectly.

Be aware that a hand brushed coat will be more shiny as opposed to an airbrushed one (more of a satin gloss) so it will need a dull coat after the decalling to take away the "toy appearance" if you will.

Dont worry about brushmarks when hand brushing. Future has excellent self levelling properties.

And lastly, if you decide on airbrushing, cleaning is best with some ammonium. Just be aware of the fact that ammonium sitting in an airbrush will eat away at the metal inside. Be sure to dry it thoroghly and/ or flush the ammonium out with water after cleaning.

Other than that, do what you prefer

Richard

Airbrushing Future helps you put down thinner coats. As Miss Owl points out, you can hand brush it.   I just prefer to mist two or three light coats.

Ive never tried airbrushing future, but I find it works perfectly fine hand brushed. Any runs (from air/hand brushing) are easily cleaned up with a scrubbing from a Qtip dipped in future. Just rub at it and the run will go away.