model train to working train

What if you just cut off the German locomotive body and place it on another frame and motor. 

Terry

-+

Thank you everyone for the advice and tips and I'll keep chugging along to make this little progress a sucess..Thanks again. Hope you all have a blessed day!

jtilley

In the mean time, here's a suggestion from a ship modeler who used to work in a hobby shop. Think about putting the motor in the tender, and using its wheels to pickup the current and push the locomotive. Might be a lot easier - and you wouldn't have to worry about the pistons, drive rods, etc.

A good idea, but there are problems with the torque reaction of the motor that have to be overcome. It allows the locomotive to be filled with as much heavy metal, increasing tractive effort, but the torque problem must be overcome.

OTOH, the tender is nearly the perfect place for a sound decoder and speaker, although, technically, it would be better if the speaker was near the exhaust stack and cylinders - that's the loudest part of a real locomotive, and some people are put off by the sound eminating from the wrong end of the locomotive.

Another resource to consider is the Locomotive Repower group on Yahoo. Pay particular attention to the postings by Ken Clark, and if you converse with him, tell him I sent you and told you to say hi for me.

GMorrison

Now, doesn't Marklin make, or made one?

Yes, Marklin makes one, but Marklin uses an odd AC system with contacts between the rails for the current path. Very non-standard.

You can see there are many models of the BR 41 available here:

http://www.modellbau-wiki.de/wiki/BR_41

Of the manufacturers listed, I think Roco has the best reputation for good running and good detailed models.

Converting a static model would mean putting the running gear from a BR 41 under your model. I would only consider this option if you could find a damaged BR41 model that still ran, and just swap the boiler and cab (with all details). I also presume you'd need to do the same with the tender if that was damaged - most steam locomotives rely on the tender to pick up at least some of the power from the rails.

I hope this helps,

Welcome to the Forum!

I'll offer another suggestion. Post your question in the Forum operated by Finescale Modeler's sister publication, Model Railroader. All sorts of motors, scratchbuilding parts, and electric gadgets are available from the model railroading specialty companies, and I'm sure lots of folks on the MR forum would know what you need and where to get it.

In the mean time, here's a suggestion from a ship modeler who used to work in a hobby shop. Think about putting the motor in the tender, and using its wheels to pickup the current and push the locomotive. Might be a lot easier - and you wouldn't have to worry about the pistons, drive rods, etc.

Good luck.

Hi Joe, welcome to the forum.

I don't think there's any possibility of this working. Getting the connecting rods and valve gear to function, bearings etc. would be the same as starting from scratch. And without a working suspension it would not go around corners. Because you are dealing with a very complicated modern locomotive, the pinnacle of the technology.

Now, doesn't Marklin make, or made one?

Joe just a tip. This particular forum "Suggestions and feedback" is intended as a suggestion box to FSM for comments about the website. Try your question in "General Modeling Discussion", or perhaps "Dioramas".

Hello!

In that case you have at least two options - thin the kit parts down, or make them new, like you could design your own custom photo-etch parts - that might be worth a try. Once again - good luck with your project and have a nice day

Paweł

Hello!

I guess the easiest way (still not very easy!) would be to find a running engine in that scale, so that the axles and such match, and then just transplant the top on it. Sometimes in models like that the actual motor is hidden in the tender of the engine, and the model of the engine is just rolling - that allows for better looks of the engine, as it has to be "see through" - there's a space between the frame and the boiler through which you should be able to see from one side to the other. Hope it helps, good luck with your project and have a nice day

Paweł

First Welcome to the forum

About you conversion idea I cant help but I'm sure there are others here, that can give you some ideas.