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Greetings - Fairly new to the hobby, brand new to the forum and looking to learn and share!

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  • Member since
    May, 2017
  • From: Rochester, NY
Greetings - Fairly new to the hobby, brand new to the forum and looking to learn and share!
Posted by TranquilBuilder on Wednesday, May 31, 2017 8:43 PM
Hello everyone, my name is Eric and I am new to the hobby. I am extremely excited to learn from the countless experience you have. I am hoping to receive some feedback and suggestions on a few things. My love for history and working with my hands led me to begin this journey about 6 months ago. I started out with a Revell Aircraft and Testors Model Master enamel paints (suggested by a local hobby shop). I then move onto a Tamiya armor project and have since been trying to switch to acrylic paints. I have a few Tamiya models stocked up and want to start building more seriously. First I would like any suggestions on tools and supplies needed. Right now I hand paint everything,although time consuming I don't mind, can I produce a worth project without an airbrush? Well at least until I am able to purchase one. Also, now pretty much strictly building Tamiya models am I going to have to forget about the pretty large inventory of Model Master paint, in order to coordinate precisely with paint schemes? I greatly appreciate any and all feedback and look forward to conversing with you all. Thanks Eric
  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Thursday, June 01, 2017 11:51 PM

Welcome aboard.

For tools, i would sugest some decent sprue cutters, tweezers and sanding materials for starers. A lot of it is picking things up as you go along as you learn. You could dive in and buy a whole range of stuff and find you never use it.

People can produce great paint jobs with just paint brushes, but if you are doing things like moteling and soft edged schemes as found on some German armour, an air brush is a real must have.

I am not familar to MM paints as i don't have access to them, but plenty of people here use them. There are paint conversion charts you can use and there are plenty of guides for paint schemes. Are you going to stick to armour from one era and country or build a wide range.  

 ''I am a Norfolk man, and I glory in being so''

  

On the bench: Dragon 1/35th Pz II Ausf F

  • Member since
    March, 2015
Posted by Toshi on Friday, June 02, 2017 8:54 AM

Welcome to FSM Forums!

Toshi

From: Streetsboro, Ohio

Retired due to work related injury

married

 

On the bench:

Trumpeter 1/32 Corsair with Eduardo Big Ed Set

In the works:

Monogram Pro Modeler 1/48 P-47 Thunderbolt (OOB)

Monogram 1/48 Black Widow 1974 boxing with AM Goodies

  • Member since
    May, 2017
  • From: Rochester, NY
Posted by TranquilBuilder on Friday, June 02, 2017 10:44 AM

Thank you for the welcome!

Bish - I plan on sticking to an era from the 1930's to 1950, basically anything from the WWII period. I really enjoy building armour, but I do have a few planes on my list. And right now its strictly US and Germany, but mostly German as I really enjoy variety and look. I realize most of there camouflage will be difficult to paint by hand. Any suggestions on air brush products?

Thanks

  • Member since
    September, 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Friday, June 02, 2017 10:56 AM

Don't underestimate the use of spray cans. Both Testors and Tamiya make nice colors in them. Obviously there are limitations, but with a little ingenuity you can get some great results. In particular with armor, you basically glue the whole thing together and then spray it.

 

 

 

  • Member since
    March, 2003
  • From: Northern New Jersey
Posted by Tojo72 on Friday, June 02, 2017 11:57 AM
Welcome aboard.

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, June 02, 2017 12:03 PM

TranquilBuilder

Thank you for the welcome!

Bish - I plan on sticking to an era from the 1930's to 1950, basically anything from the WWII period. I really enjoy building armour, but I do have a few planes on my list. And right now its strictly US and Germany, but mostly German as I really enjoy variety and look. I realize most of there camouflage will be difficult to paint by hand. Any suggestions on air brush products?

Thanks

 

I have only used badger and have a 100 and 150, so i can't give you a comparison. But i rdeally like those.

Some German schemes can be brush painted with no problem, such as the single colour schemes and late war hard edged 3 colour schemes. But the softer edged scheme deffinetly need spraying. You could use the spray can route that GM mentioned and use some sort of putting for masking, this helps give a soft edge.

 ''I am a Norfolk man, and I glory in being so''

  

On the bench: Dragon 1/35th Pz II Ausf F

  • Member since
    July, 2014
  • From: Meridian, ID
Posted by modelcrazy on Friday, June 02, 2017 1:27 PM
Hi Eric,
There's a whole new world for you to learn but don't fret, it will come in time. I have a Badger 105 which I am fairly pleased with but there are several makers and mutable models to choose from. Check out https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/ for info on the various types.
On paint, while MM is diverse they do not make all the colors you will eventually want to get. Since you are in acrylics right now you may want to give Vallejo a try. The brush great but spray terrible without the proper thinner mix. Vallejo does make Model Air which is meant for spraying.
There are several types of paint for basic starters
Lacquer, sprays great brushes terrible.
Enamel, sprays fine with the proper mix of thinner, brushes fair.
Acrylics, sprays fair with the proper mix of thinner but will tend to tip dry which means it dries right out if the tip (there are retarders for that though), brushes ok.
Then you get specialty metalizes like Alclad. Very touchy paint to work with.
For tools Bish covered the basics but you probably already have an Xacto knife with a no 11 blade, a good set of brushes, toothpicks for applying small amounts of glue etc.
As far as glues there, again are several types. Here is just a sample.
·         Polystyrene cement. which actually welds the plastic together
·         Cyanoacetate "CA" ('super glue') which bonds the join.
·         PVA adhesive or white glue which is good for canopies and other clear parts. PVA does not hold well though so don't use it for holding the model together.

 

This is a start, don't hastate to ask questions but use the appropriate thread when you start one. This will help you get answers.

ON THE BENCH

1/35 Italeri Carro Armato M13/40
1/48 Italeri Hurricane Mk.1 Trop

In Que

1/24 Monogram 1930 Packard Bobtail Speedster
1/25 Monogram 57 Chevy Bel Air

fox
  • Member since
    January, 2007
  • From: Coatesville, Pa.
Posted by fox on Friday, June 02, 2017 4:53 PM

Welcome to the Forums Eric! Glad to have you aboard!

Just take it slow and easy. With the help of the members here you will get better in no time. I've been building for 70 of my 76 years and I'm still learning from these guys, and gals. As was said above, don't be in a hurry to buy a whole bunch of stuff that you might not like. As your skills improve, try something new. If you don't like it, try something else. Making too many changes at one time can cause problems, and cost a lot of money.

Looking forward to seeing your builds and watching your skills improve. Enjoy!

Jim  Captain

Photobucket Main WIP: Rebuild of Monogram 1/8 "Big Deuce" with 1/8 Pocher V-12 in rear - 10%

   On the Bench:   Revell 1/48 Ju 52/3m - 50%;  Revell 1/96 USS Kearsarge - 20% 

I keep hitting "escape", but I'm still here.

  • Member since
    July, 2012
  • From: Douglas AZ
Posted by littletimmy on Friday, June 02, 2017 7:47 PM

Howdy!

Tools can be cheep or expensive it just depends on what will work for you.

I have what I call my "portable work bench". Its just a piece of wood about 6 in by 3 in and 3/8 thick. It has numerous holes in it (for forming handrails and such) and is covered in X-acto cuts. Its my most used tool!

I also recommend getting a GOOD pin-vice. They come in handy for drilling holes.

Get one that has multiple sizes (chuck sizes) and you may find that they can even interchange with a Dremel. (Dremels can be spendy so compare before you buy.)

You can get small drill bits in sets of 20 or 25 for about $15 but I have discoverd that if you purchase guitar string in multiple sizes you can make your own drill bits for A paultry 5 cents each (plus the leftover guitar strings make exellent handrails, raidiator hoses, anntennas, fuel lines, ect.) And you get to use your "portable work bench" to shape them.

Also find yourself a piece of glass. It will make decaling a much easier project. It only needs to be about 8 in by 11 in.

 

I'm full of all kinds of useless information so feel free to ask anytime.

                      Dont worry about the thumbprint... paint it rust and call it "Battle damage" !

  • Member since
    May, 2017
  • From: Rochester, NY
Posted by TranquilBuilder on Friday, June 02, 2017 9:35 PM

Thank you for all the valuable Intel, that website is unbelievable and answered A TON of questions I had. As far as painting goes is it ok to use different brands and/or bases on the same model? I do have a few Vallejo paints buy have yet to use them, mainly for the fact that I can just dip my brush in the bottle.

Thanks again

  • Member since
    May, 2017
  • From: Rochester, NY
Posted by TranquilBuilder on Friday, June 02, 2017 9:59 PM

Does anyone or has anyone used Paasche products. I am interested in the VLS dual action internal mix airbrush. I do not have to much knowledge on what to expect or how an airbrush feels other than research and that great link posted above. I notice that Badger is sold in practically ever shop in my area, and hear a lot about the 150 & 155; but like I said am intrigued by the Paasche VLS.

 

  • Member since
    July, 2014
  • From: Meridian, ID
Posted by modelcrazy on Friday, June 02, 2017 11:16 PM

Paasche is a very good brand although I have never used their internal mix.

As far as paint type's, yes you can use various types on one build.

The rule is you can spray enamel on lacquer but not lacquer on enamel, or is it the other way around? I'm not sure if it even matters, just something I heard several years ago.  Acrylic can go on anything. 

ON THE BENCH

1/35 Italeri Carro Armato M13/40
1/48 Italeri Hurricane Mk.1 Trop

In Que

1/24 Monogram 1930 Packard Bobtail Speedster
1/25 Monogram 57 Chevy Bel Air

  • Member since
    September, 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Saturday, June 03, 2017 9:25 AM

Welcome to the Forums!

Nulla Rosa Sine Spina

 

 

 

  • Member since
    May, 2017
  • From: Denver, Colorado
Posted by MrStecks on Saturday, June 03, 2017 10:14 PM

Welcome Eric!

I only brush painted my models when I was a kid, but since I've come back to the hobby I decided to switch to an airbrush.  It's been going well so far.  Still need brushes for smaller part detailing and weathering.

I've seen some youtube videos of people that brush paint their models and some that use spray cans, and they get great results too.  So it really comes down to what works best for you.

Cheers, Mark. 


On the bench: Tamiya 1/48 P-47 Bubble Top

In the queue:  Eduard 1/32 P-47 Dottie Mae; Tamiya 1/32 P-51 Mustang; WNW 1/32 Fokker D.VII (Fok.) "Early"; Revell 1/48 B-25J

  • Member since
    May, 2017
Posted by Fredthefoot`s Models on Tuesday, June 13, 2017 2:09 AM
welome mate :)

 

!!! Any Effort Is A Great Effort In This Hobby Enjoy It !!!

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