Newbie requesting some help

Beginner? 

   That's okay, but there is a lot in tools or auto. Now as to your glueing .Glue most parts Before painting .Glue finish parts after cleaning an edge to plastic. Then touch it up. If you use Cyanocrylate ( Super ) glues there is one thing you need to know .It does not hold well if you torque or twist the piece afterward or if it's in a bind .

Loctite if you want it to dry fast and gorilla if you want it to dry slower so you can adjust it before it dries.

Even cheap super glue will do. There's people who do amazing work with 10 for a dollar packs. It's a matter of finding what works for you in your price range.

Welcome to the forums! 

You might want to have a look down in the Tools forum, too:

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/tools_techniques_and_reference_materials/f/23.aspx

I suspect you'll find a lot of info about various glues there.

Kopite

Thanks Everyone for the advice, i've learned loads already. 

can anyone recommend thier go to CA glue? or clear super glue. 

I'm in australia so i dont know how much the brands differ. 

Sounds like i'm using the wrong glue for the wrong purpose 

so lesson learned there! 

thanks all so far for your friendly and helpful answers

Zap or Zap-a-Gap used to be my usual choice, but I had a couple bottles that didn't perform like they used to.  Don't know if it was old glue, bad batch or a change in the forumlation.

Bob Smith Ind. makes a decent brand I've used.  Other stores offer their own label--like Freetime Hobbies in Georgia, USA.

I don't know what's available down under.  You may have to experiment.  Once you get the hang of it--and it took me a while--it works well for most things, except clear parts.  Usually you'd want to go with a white craft type glue for clear parts without much stress on them.

Good luck!

 

 

Thanks Everyone for the advice, i've learned loads already. 

can anyone recommend thier go to CA glue? or clear super glue. 

I'm in australia so i dont know how much the brands differ. 

Sounds like i'm using the wrong glue for the wrong purpose 

so lesson learned there! 

thanks all so far for your friendly and helpful answers

If you're using the square bottle with the green lid I think you are that's not glue. That's plastic cement, it's a type of solvent that makes 2 pieces of plastic melt at the edges and smush together to form 1 piece. Sort of like melting 2 ice creams then refreezing it. If you're going to prepaint parts you want to be using super glue not plastic cement since it acts as a bonder between parts not melting and resolidifying them.

A really glossy finish is one of the hardest builds to pull off. Even the smallest mistake can ruin one of those. For your second build ever you would likely be better focusing on the fundamentals and going for a more standard finish. Your first few kits will be full of silly mistakes we all made and learned not to repeat. It'll be some where in the early double digits you really find your flow and can build a kit without any major mistakes. It's usually best to save that kit you really really want to do for a bit later and focus on cheap easy to get kits first off so it doesn't sting so bad when you mess them up.

Dr. Faust has some pretty good beginners tutorials you might find helpful to get you off on the right foot.

I use a fair amount of CA because I model ships and I have to paint quite a few parts prior to assembly.

Be aware that it will permanently fog clear styrene. Even just the fumes. Ships don't have any clear parts.

Welcome to the Forums!

I use different glues for different purposes, from CA (superglues) to the usual liquid plastic glues.  There are still uses even for the old tube-type glues.

I think 2 minutes is too quick to expect a fully-cured bond.  I'd give it at least a couple of hours and probably overnight before I'd do any more with it.

If you get glue on top of any painted part, it's going to adversely affect the paint.  The exception is white-type-craft glue.  That should wipe off with a damp cloth, but white-craft type glues also don't produce a solidly fused bond.  

When using solvent-type plastic cements like the Tamiya extra-thin, it's best to glue first, then paint if you can.

I'm sure others will post with more information, too.